tr6wilts Posted January 24, 2015 Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 Hi I am looking to replace my (soggy,saggy and perforated) original Gearbox tunnel, there seem to be a number of different materials (plastic or fibreglass) and suppliers. Does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted January 24, 2015 Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 Rich, Fibreglass for sure, the plastic ones don't fit very well. Racestorations two piece is the best option but at a price. I have just been looking at my TR250 with its original tunnel in very good condition. The previous owner had had the foresight to line the tunnel with fibreglass back in the seventies. Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted January 24, 2015 Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 Racetorations two piece. Expensive yes, but well worth it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graze Posted January 24, 2015 Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 Rich I bought the fibreboard one from Moss and covered it with Dynamat insulation to stiffen it up and reduce heat An alternative if you are worried about the cost of the fiberglass Graze Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnny250 Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 I fitted a thick black plastic one, but later made it a 'two piece' with a wood saw and some alloy strip.....better than the original..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr6wilts Posted January 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 Crikey Johnny Mine looks positively mint compared to you old one, you must have bigger spiders/ rats in the east or the gators got to it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 Racetorations 2-piece makes access to overdrive solenoid much easier. I fitted one to my TR4 in 2004 - it pays to be very methodical in drilling the fixing holes in precisely the correct positions. If the cover is wedged in position, many of the holes can be marked or even drilled from beneath the car - but don't let fibreglass dust fall into your eyes! It took me some time, but I did the job single-handed. The same advice on correct positioning goes for cutting out where access is required to the oil filler and speedo drive. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trevor Posted January 25, 2015 Report Share Posted January 25, 2015 Agree with Ian , Racetorations , and fit big rubber bung for checking gearbox oil level , not sure why Racetorations don't do this. Trevor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 About time someone should reproduce it at a sensible price. Harry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
silverfox4 Posted April 8, 2020 Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 This seemed to be the best thread to "bump" regarding 2-piece gearbox covers I have the Moss motors (Clark and Clark Inc) 2 piece cover. The speedo drive access opening/hole and cover worked out well, but the solenoid access is a dilemma as it seems to bridge the front and rear pieces. Do I just measure umpteen times, suck it up and cut? The plan is to use the round floor jacking hole plugs. I think the GB filler plug access should be OK Any advice would be welcome Cheers, Alf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted April 8, 2020 Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 Do you need separate solenoid access when you can easily remove the rear section? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted April 8, 2020 Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harlequin Posted April 8, 2020 Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 You will need still to remove the H frame to get the back section of the cover out George Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted April 8, 2020 Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 (edited) I thought the purpose (one of) of the split cover was to avoid the necessity to remove the dreaded H frame - is that not the case then? Edited April 8, 2020 by Chilliman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 8, 2020 Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 2 hours ago, Chilliman said: I thought the purpose (one of) of the split cover was to avoid the necessity to remove the dreaded H frame - is that not the case then? No its to avoid having to remove the front bolts against the bulkhead that are always notoriously difficult to locate. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harlequin Posted April 8, 2020 Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 3 hours ago, Chilliman said: I thought the purpose (one of) of the split cover was to avoid the necessity to remove the dreaded H frame - is that not the case then? Hi John It would be useful if the H could be left in place but as you can see from Alf's photos the joint is a long way forward of the gear stick, but even so the split tunnel is much easier to live with as so much can be accessed with just the rear section removed plus unlike the one piece cover you don't have to remove the hand brake lever George Quote Link to post Share on other sites
silverfox4 Posted April 8, 2020 Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 Thanks for all the great input I purchased the 2-piece cover, as Stuart noted, to overcome the need to remove the forward bulkhead bolts (provided of course an access opening is cut for the OD isolator switches, which I am experimenting on size a the moment). I will recheck the relative locations for the H, rear of front portion of the cover, and the solenoid, to see if removing the the rear portion alone will provide access to solenoid per Andrew's thought. However I'm wondering whether access to the adjusting arm is more necessary and that is maybe 30mm forward of the solenoid. Is it possible that the Clark and Clark (Moss Motors) 2-piece covers are split at different locations. The sections for this one are approx. Front-430mm (17"), Rear-410mm (16") and the centre of gear shift hole is approx. 150mm (6") back of front of rear section. I'll come back later with relative positions for solenoid adjustment. My further thought now is whether the circular jacking grommet is the right choice - what does the Revington cover have? Thanks and Cheers, Alf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted April 8, 2020 Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 This is very helpful info, I've never had a split tunnel fitted but had always thought it was to avoid the H frame removal, - this is probably a daft question - but why isn't the joint made further back? - Surely that would enable even a complete engine gearbox removal with the front of the tunnel & H frame still attached, or am I missing something? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
silverfox4 Posted April 8, 2020 Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 Coming back with more measurements. The rear most bolt hole of the H foot essentially lines up with the centre of the solenoid barrel, in which case you could not remove the rear section only without removing the H bracket. It also appears as though you need to remove the H in order to take off any cover for the solenoid. So maybe when all is said and doneto acces any access cover the carpet would to be easily removable and then if it solenoid adjusting the H frame as well - this leads me tto think that a square plate as opposed to rubber floor grommet is best - thoughts and suggestion most welcome John, based on this info, I'm not sure how feasible having the joint further back would as the next stop would be rear of the gearshift opening Cheers, Alf #.url #.url Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted April 8, 2020 Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 I would not install to much inspection covers, especially the top one. It will weaken the already not too stiff tunnel and increase risk of leakage. If you pay close attention to the switches (also check resistance), and install a new hardness with proper gripping connectors, the harness fitted so it cannot rub, sag, then drive for a couple of weeks to build confidence with the cover loosely fitted, you can then fit it more permanent. I also fitted my carpets such that they will not get damaged if I remove my 2-piece tunnel. I made 2 covers, one for the angle drive and one for the bulge of the starter-motor, which was contacting the tunnel. Used 1 mm aluminium for these. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted April 8, 2020 Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 I think the main reason for two piece tunnels was shipping cost. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted April 8, 2020 Report Share Posted April 8, 2020 (edited) The positioning of the overdrive solenoid and the operating lever is - non moveable, Also the limited access to either of these with the H in position and the rear most section of the 2 piece gearbox cover which would need removing which would also need the H removing anyway ?, surely means the split in the cover has to go the other way - forwards. Why not buy a single piece cover and split the cover about 3" forward of the position where the 2 piece tunnel is split, then at least access to the overdrive unit itself, and also the solenoid and operating arm can be accessed by just biting the bullet and removing the rear half of the cover and the H , sometimes can be a bit messy but I reckon 70% better than a total gearbox cover removal. This plus a few plug covers for the other necessary service points should give the best result, that's what I'm going to try. Mick Richards Edited April 8, 2020 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
silverfox4 Posted April 9, 2020 Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 Thanks all, Waldi, regarding the number of openings, the three I have in mind, namely for the speedo, solenoid and GB filler plug appear to be commonplace - Revington seem to add add one more at the rear for what I assume is the driveshaft U/J? This plastic version is about 3mm thick so quite sturdy Thanks Mick, but I have to work with what I have - If this one had been split 40mm further forward the solenoid would work out fine but the opening for the speedo drive would be compromised. Probably the ideal split, if you doing one yourself, would not be radially symmetric, but rather diagonally across - it would start just forward of solenoid operating arm and finish where this one does i.e. behind the speedo drive. Cheers, Alf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanG Posted April 9, 2020 Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 Don't forget access hole for upper starter motor bolt. Alan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 9, 2020 Report Share Posted April 9, 2020 29 minutes ago, AlanG said: Don't forget access hole for upper starter motor bolt. Alan. Even more applicable for Hi-Torque ones. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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