Gearbox Tunnel

[Chilliman]

Uumm, I feel another project coming on.....

[ianc]

REMOVAL OF OVERDRIVE SOLENOID ON TR4

It is perfectly possible to remove/replace the overdrive solenoid without disconnecting the bridge if the following preparations are made in advance.

a)       a slot needs to be cut in the left side of the gearbox cover – this should be covered with a thin sheet of steel or alloy shaped to fit the curve, and held in place with three clips (front, rear & top).  The clips are of the type which will permit the metal cover to be screwed tight over the hole, so as to stop fumes getting into the cockpit. 

b)      a small hole, capable of receiving the blade of a screwdriver, should be drilled through the gearbox cover at a point vertically above the foremost screw holding the solenoid in position – this hole can be sealed with a small piece of duct tape.

c)       The head of each of the 2 screws which hold the solenoid in position should have an X shaped slot in the head – if they have a plain slot, then use a hacksaw to cut a slot at right angles so as to provide the X.

d)      Make sure that the cable connecting the solenoid is of sufficient length to permit the solenoid to be withdrawn through the slot and to permit disconnection.

To remove the solenoid, remove the piece of duct tape, then unscrew and remove the cover plate or, if a split gearbox cover is used, remove the rear part of the gearbox cover (it’s likely that this will necessitate release, but not removal, of the bridge).  Use a plain, flat-bladed screwdriver through the hole to remove the foremost screw.  Use a double-ended, right-angled screwdriver to remove the rearmost screw, a quarter turn at a time.

A double-ended, right-angled screwdriver has a blade at each end, disposed at right-angles to the rod.  One blade points north-south, the other east-west – those shown I made more than 60 years ago when I was an apprentice.

[Chilliman]

Quote

  The head of each of the 2 screws which hold the solenoid in position should have an X shaped slot in the head – if they have a plain slot, then use a hacksaw to cut a slot at right angles so as to provide the X.

Or better still replace the little blighters with 10/32 unf 1/2" long capheads & use a long wobble head allen key..........makes everything so much easier

[silverfox4]

Thanks Alan and Stuart - not seen an opening for the starter bolt before, so will look at that, particularly as a Hi-Torque could be something under consideration for the future.

Cheers,

Alf

[ed_h]

Access for that starter bolt can be is a huge help.

Ed

[silverfox4]

Thanks Ed, very helpful - think I can do that easily enough!

Cheers,

Alf