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Showing results for 'engine oil'.
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Hi Peter, when other TR drivers discover my Peugeot bleeding system under the bonnet and I explain how it effects nothing - there is always a interesting and always different reaction. I love that and keep it on the engine, while the thermometers are out after my petrol temperature experiment. Ciao, Marco
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Hi I fitted CDD power steering over Christmas, the earlier version ran from the crank pully as described in the instructions on their webb site. The latest version drives from the water pump pully with a shorter drive belt new pump supplied with double pully. My observation when fitting which I did my self. Do not fit with the engine lifting Eye which instructions say can be left on if wished, with it left on the pump does not run square. The pump pully was 3mm out of alignment so I made some spacers to align it, this is noticeable with the short belt, the older version
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Took the car out for a decent drive today first time in Months up to Waddington and Ribchester. Before we set of filled up with fuel. gauge before fill up 1/8th full I don't usually run it that low. Fine going up there about 30 miles but with about 3 miles to go it started running rough wouldn't pull and occasionally under heavy load trying to clear it by running up to 5000 rpm it was flat with the odd misfire thru the carbs. In the end binned any idea of lunch got back to Whaley went in the country park for a comfort break whilst there checked plug leads on plug not loose then thinking back t
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From my current project which is a 6 cyl TR engine in a TR4A chassis. I would like to check that the engine is at the correct height. Can someone provide a reference point measurement on the engine to the chassis.
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Hi David...I had to fabricate new engine mount to chassis plates as they are not available to purchase, then welded them on to where I believed [on advice and measurements from forum members] was the correct position. I now just wanted to double check that I have it right, hence my post.
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Mine is on the LH inner front wing opposite the distributor/engine mounted coil.
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Bit like the Spanish registered TR7 booked into our workshop once for a full service…..with a Ford engine and gearbox fitted. The mechanic working on the car noticed the points would not fit.
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Unless I'm missing the point here, would a good start point not be the location of the engine mount chassis brackets on either a TR5 or 6? Given the road wheels are in the same place on all chassis, wouldn't that then mean that your engine is in the same/correct location and you can then modify other sections of the chassis around the engine, if needs be. I think that this would be the way that I'd be doing this. Are the required measurements/chassis bracket locations and holes to be found in workshop manuals? David
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Thanks Waldi....the bottom of the engine block is 80mm above the CM, so I should be OK with height. As for checking the longitudinal placement?....the centre of the engine mount is very close to be aligned with the front edge of the rear lower control arm bracket on the chassis.
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? Fitting a 6 engine in a 4A frame and under a 4A bonnet, isn‘t a measurement under a 4A bonnet what you need ?
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Hi Malbaby, I measured my CP-TR6 this morning. The lower block flange is 90 mm above the crossmember, the ridge of the sump around 10 mm lower. I assume the sump dimension you give (50 mm) is related to the other dimension, and was a bit hard to access now, or do I mis-understand you? The engine rubber mounts are 7 years old now sow will have sagged a bit, but not much, maybe just a couple of mm. The block is sitting level left to right but the rear end is lower compared to the front. Hope this helps. Waldi
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The bottom of the block is currently 80mm from the top of the main cross member. Top of LCA bracket is level with oil pan lip. Engine higher than what it should be??
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Thanks for the replies. My engine does have a snorkel on at the moment so I will have to remove it then turn a piece on the lathe to make it work. I will post pictures when done
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I turned up an aluminum elbow with an O ring to fit inside the block. It has a small flange on the outer surface against the block. I then taped a small (3mm) thread next to the block breather hole and after fitting the new elbow screwed in a short screw with a washer that worked with the flange to prevent the elbow coming out. The elbow was then secure but could be turned to any direction required. This has been in place for about 12 years now. I did this with the engine out so would be a bit hard with it installed. It may be a bit to understand exactly what I done from this description
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Does your engine currently have the snorkel type breather pipe fitted in the side of the block? If not be prepared for a bit of a game in removing the core plug that is in the hole that you want to place the breather in.
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Good Afternoon, I have a 1972 Tr6 Pi which had been fully restored before I bought it some years ago. I do not use it regularly although I do run the engine. Every time I run the engine there seems to be a misfire which is present through out the rev range. I have replaced the plug leads and plugs plus the distributor cap. I have checked that each plug is sparking as well. None of these checks have improved matters. Does anyone have any similar experiences and can shed light on what I can do in addition to what I have done?
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ALL This post is going to make me sound a bit of a TWAT - I have been involved in maintaining and rebuilding TRs x1 6 x2 4's ,x1 5 my latest project was intended to be my own personal car SOS for a close friend and TR 4 owner having manage cancer treatment and mother dementia and death and many promises for her car to be retuned to the road with out progress over the last 10 years So in I stepped having procured a brilliant body shell the rest would be well within my capability at this point i was introduced to one Mathew Lambkin Smith trading in the Lincoln are
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I was thinking of using Ivor Searle as I know they have done a lot of these however they are quite a way from me. Where is your company? There is also a company nearer to me, Classic & Modern Engine Services but they were expensive and were pretty off hand when I spoke to them. They do generally seem to have a good reputation however.
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Hi again. An update. Just to re-iterate, the car drove fine with the ign light operating as expected before I did the gearbox swap. Alternator conversion undertaken before my ownership Checks made today Swapped oil pressure warning bulb to ign warning location, still no light when ign switch on Indicators and all lights work when ign key on – note this is a new ign switch (3 months old) Earth strap from body to engine to battery -ve terminal in place 12v at ign switch from starter motor wire (red / white wire) when ign switched on Alternator 1 Large wire conn
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Martin Ward has a fire under the bonnet - stuck in traffic with the electric fan and other accessories on thought to have been caused by a missing engine to body earth. This was on a 6 where the battery neg goes to the bell housing and onto the body. His only went to the bell housing. A previous owner had seemingly fitted an earth strap from an earlier car, assuming that was how it was. However the 4a etc have an entirely separate earth strap from the engine block to the body/chassis.
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Ah - OK. That is a Lucas ACR pattern alternator. The continuity tests you are doing are finding return paths through equipment in the car which is why it looks as though the positive lead goes to earth. It is not a meaningful reading. You say the reversing light works - which is an indication that the battery is OK but more than that depends on where it is connected and whether it is switched by the ignition switch. The fact the oil light comes on with the ignition shows there is power to the switch and that the switch is working. It should also feed power to the ignition light
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The Jenveys do look very much like the CR inlets but at a considerable premium over the Fred Millturn ones. I think that Emerald don't recommend fitting in the engine bay.
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Thanks for all the replies. I am building my efi around modified standard throttle bodies (Fred Millturn). I have the throttle bodies on the car but am still running lucas injection I see jenvey do a tr6 specific throttle body set up which also looks good but will persevere with what I have for now. The cam bores in my current engine are a bit loose so need to get them line bored and bearings fitted. So plenty of work to do. Chris
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Thanks to both the last posters, it has opened the document, but its actually the program I wanted to open, as you can choose the engine size, chokes, and then it gives a starting point for the jet sizes that I'm really after, thanks for your help. The info I'm trying to get is a base line jet sizes for a Peugeot 205 Rallye eu spec, 40DCOM, there are 2 of them, its an amazing pocket rocket 1274cc with 103hp and 750 kg! I'm sure the petrol has changed since 1988 when it came out, so wanted to find, I think now getting info from the 205 Rallye forum in France and finding out what the use c
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Hi Guys, Probably been covered before but can't find any previous topic. I think it's a common problem of oil leakage from the push rod tubes on the TR4/4A engine. I assume the top of the tubes are peened over where they exit from the top of the head ? The bottom being sealed by the head gasket. Without removing the pushrods and maybe re peening them over in the hope of getting a better seal, is there any effective sealer that can be brushed around the top of the tubes to prevent/reduce what is a minor leakage but just unsightly? Thanks Rich
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