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RAHTR4

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  1. Hi Mike, Original N.O.S. switches can be found with a bit of diligent searching. Over the years Lucas manufactured different versions, so it important to buy and install the correct version. Have you reviewed the very detailed article written by Ian Gibson entitled "Hydraulic Brake Light Switches". If you require reference photos of various switches I think I may have a few N.O.S. spares. Regards, Richard
  2. Hi Graham, I have an Instruction Book, part No. 501528, Triumph Sports Car TR3, Fifth Edition – First Printing. Undated but the bottom half of the last page has been torn out so it might have contained a date? The second page has a three-quarter side view of a TR3A so should be OK for your model. Page 43 provides the following information : Fuses The fuse carrier is located forward of the control box and houses two operating and two spare fuses. The L.H. fuse (35 amp.) protects the horn, while the other fuse (35 amp.) protects those items which can only operate wh
  3. Hi Christine, Your Restorer may well have picked up on it, but just to confirm each of the return ends of the lower valance have open slots cut in them and should be placed on outside face of the inner wheel arches. The front wing infill then sits on top to make a sandwich; the lower valance returns have these slots in them so they can then be moved in or out to get the best fit with the outer wing. On the prototype TR4’s these joints which are visual under the bumper were fitted with stainless steel trims, all the Sales Catalogues show these trims, however when the production c
  4. Hi Paul, Well this is new one to me, I have a copy of a two page TR Revington RHD conversion document which makes no mention of this third stay – however this document is years old so must have been updated. A stay in this position makes good sense as the original SU H6 carbs have a choke control system that more often than not is extremely stiff to operate. I think I must have the original 611531 LHD stay from my car, so I am going to try and find it to see if it will fit...!!! Regards, Richard
  5. Hi Russell, You have a P.M. Regards, Richard
  6. Hi Paul, I think you will find that the item in your photo is item 29, which is for a LHD car. The required RHD stay is 611834, item 25 in the Moss catalogue, which is much shorter, one end is flat and straight whilst the other has a 90 degree bend with a single hole. The LHD stay can be shortened and a 90 degree bend put in (plenty of heat and a hammer) to make it work. My take on the installation of the two stays is as follows : TR4 Steering Column Stays – RHD Cars The Upper Dash Support Stay 611532 is located on the nearside of the steering column, its upper ou
  7. Hi Niels, You have another P.M. Regards, Richard
  8. Hi Niels, You have a P.M. Regards, Richard
  9. Hi Niels, When I was putting the original switch away when I came across a possible solution for you, however this rather depends upon how original you wish to keep the car. I sourced a switch to modify into a Momentary switch as I did not want to alter an original switch...! Thus I purchased a Rover switch which had a similar look and action. This switch has a similar shaped cranked stalk and has a larger black plastic tip so is overall slightly longer, I was going to reduce the length of the tip and splay it like an original – however in the end I never used it as an excellent
  10. Hi Niels, For clarification the photo below shows the switch when viewed from the top looking downwards and the stalk cranks out from the dash panel – it basically follows the dish in the steering wheel. In the first message the third photo is looking straight through the steering wheel and shows the switch in the OFF position. The fourth photo of the first message is again looking straight through the steering wheel and shows the switch in the ON position. So this original switch is for use on a LHD car. It does get more complicated as a revised Owners Handbook was is
  11. Hi Niels, I note that your car is 1962 and the Lucas Catalogue lists a 34490 switch and I do have one of these to hand. This switch has a chromed stalk which cranks almost immediately it emerges from the alloy body of the switch and has a length of 2.7/8” (7.30cm) the black plastic end is 1.5/8” (4.12cm) in length and thus the lever has an overall length of 4.1/2” (11.43 cm). The switch is wired up and operates when pulled downwards. Sometime ago I did purchased a repro overdrive switch and found it to be exactly the same size and a good quality reproduction part, however i
  12. Hi Alan, You have a P.M. Regards, Richard
  13. Hi Stev, You have a P.M. Regards, Richard
  14. RAHTR4

    Boot lock

    Hi Graham, First remove the nut at the rear and pull the handle outwards. Hold the chrome bezel as is a loose fit item and will fall off. The lock barrel is held in place by an offset steel pin at the root, punch this out and the barrel can be removed by wiggling the key. The square steel locking bar will also drop out. The usual cause of a failure is the eccentric operating pin cast onto the end of the barrel either shear off or wear down, the photo shows a rather worn pin. I think the new lock barrels are an all steel casting. Regards, Richard
  15. Hi Andrew, The Wiper motor 75442 is a single speed unit and only appears to have been used in the Sunbeam Alpine MK II and the gear wheel inside would not have been correct for a TR4A so presumably a previous owner has changed it for the correct 120 degree type. Regards, Richard
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