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  1. Hi John, You have a P.M. Regards, Richard
  2. Hi John, Push the original key fully home into the lock, this action with draws in the small brass leaves and allows the barrel to be removed. Do not turn the key. Push a scribe into the small hole and it will depress the brass pin. The pin is often just out of sight partially covered by an internal spring. Whilst still pushing on the scriber gently inwards, pull the barrel out with the key. Regards, Richard
  3. Hi Lee, You have a P.M. Regards, Richard
  4. Hi Andy, It is my understanding that the type of thermostat required is dependent upon the Water Pump Housing which is fitted to the car. Originally the TR4 was fitted with a Housing which had a by-pass opening of approximately 9/16” diameter and was originally fitted with an AC Bellows sleeved thermostat. The various manuals state that a TF1 - 72 degree was the Summer fitment and a TF4 - 86 degree to be used during the winter. With the introduction of the TR4A the water pump housing was modified and the by-pass opening was reduced to an approximate diameter of 5/16” with a
  5. Hi Mike, P.M. Sent Regards, Richard
  6. Hi John, You have a P.M. Regards, Richard
  7. Hi Nige, The steering wheel fixing nut is the same for the TR4 through to the TR6. Measures 1.1/16" over the flats and 1.7/32 over the corners. The socket that you require is a 1.1/16" AF Regards, Richard
  8. Hi John, An original wide belt has the following sizes : 975 O/D - 900 I/D - 20 wide top - 12 deep - 12 wide base I too kept to the wide belt and found a longer item with Revington : Not Measured O/D - 985 I/D - 20 wide top - 12 deep - 12 wide base Optibelt VB 20 x 1000 LI 10 with Revington part number RTR 5034X Have you fitted the alternator with a smaller diameter “wide” belt pulley...? I could not find one off the shelf so had to have some turned up by a local machinist who used a suitable alloy. At that same time I found that the Mos
  9. Hi Brian, As I do not own a TR2 I can only make an observation. Looking at your photos and then the Moss “Bible” it seems to me that the remaining bracket consists of items 27 to 32 and is noted as a fitment for the TR3. I think the parts that you have removed were the original TR2 exhaust fittings – items 21, 12 & 13 plus bolts. I wonder if it is possible that fitting a TR4 type bracket would clear the new overdrive support as it sits to the side and firmly secures the exhaust both horizontally and vertically...? Regards, Richard
  10. Hi Robert, You have a P.M. Regards, Richard
  11. Hi Robert, The identification of the wheels should be fairly straight forward as during production each wheel was hard stamped at regular intervals around the centre-line of the flat section in the well. Also if the rim and centre hub are riveted together then it is odds on to be a 4 J x 15 L steel wheel. As for colour I have no idea what shade of Silver was used, however bear in mind that in early March 1963 Triumph changed the colour of the steel wheels to Spar White. I have attached a photo of a steel wheel to show where the stamp marks occur – this is a TR5 steel wheel
  12. Hi Myles, Go the Dip Switch and follow the wires, which should rise upwards, to its intersection with the main loom. At this location on the opposite side of the loom you should see one short green wire emerging and entering a bullet connector. Two other short green wires also emerge at this point and then enter the opposite end of the same bullet connector. One of these green wires then goes to the Flasher Unit and the second travels further to the Wiper Motor. I trust this helps, if not let me know and I will try to dig out a photo. Regards, Richard
  13. Hi Bob, The differences between the collar types can be seen in the photo below Regards, Richard
  14. Hi Johnny, The only reason that I can think of for horizontal grooves is to produce a burr edge to the faces of the splines to induce a sort of interference fit. However in my opinion it is a bodge and all it has down is to weaken the joint. The marks on the top are purely down to mis-use as the four faces of the nut have to be perfectly square in both directions in order to locate the matching hole in the centre of the steering wheel, sorry but it is only fit for the bin. Triumph did use the 36 No. splined hubs. Regards, Richard
  15. Hi Johnny, I think you will find that the previous owner has actually run a tap through the hole in order to make a thread. This is a very unusual modification and it has made it unusable on a splined shaft - totally unsafe. I do have some spare Boss hubs, depending on the number of splines that you require. Regards, Richard
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