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RAHTR4 last won the day on January 11 2019

RAHTR4 had the most liked content!

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  1. Hi Oliver, The earliest indication that I have found for the fitment of Tripod head lamp units is from the Lucas Equipment & Spare Parts – 1955 Standard & Triumph Cars. Publication No. CCE902D and dated April 1955. In this publication they were listed as follows : * Model P700 - Headlamp unit - 51546A - Light unit - 554999 - (with photo showing the tripod) * Listed as alternative fitment for Triumph 2-seater Sports TR2 They were then fitted to all subsequent Sidescreen cars and the TR4 until 1963. I like the look of the Tripod headlamps and have a N.O.S. original pair fitted to my 1964 TR4. If you do decide to fit this type of headlamp to your car, I would recommend that you try to obtain original N.O.S. units as the reproduction items are not the best of quality. Also as they accept BPF bulbs many upgraded versions are available to increase the projected light. I trust this is of interest. Regards, Richard
  2. Hi Bob, I see that your engine is fitted with BHB pistons, no idea why they have a depression at the centre, presumably to assist with the machining...? However they were manufactured by Automotive Engineering Limited in Twickenham. The advert below is from the Automobile Engineer dated September 1956. Regards, Richard
  3. Andy, If your feed wire connector has disappeared, the same type of wire connector is used in any of the dash panel bulb holders, you might have a spare of these. Also your light has been installed using large round head self-tappers and I think they are the reason the “shade” has been removed, basically to provide room. Those round heads will make the lens difficult to install and remove, plus they will eventually destroy the sponge seal. Originally these bulb holders were fitted using small countersunk self-tappers into spire nuts and because of the use of large round head self-tappers I am guessing that you will find the spire nuts are also missing...!!! Regards, Richard
  4. Andy, Photos of an original L658. Regards, Richard
  5. Tread carefully, this vehicle has had a long and contorted life. This is indeed is the original body of XHP 939. The XHP 939 registration and body plate were both “obtained” by Paul Hogan and now they sit uncomfortably on the Replica manufactured by Glen Hewitt of Protek Engineering. The Son has been trying to sell the remains of the car for years, much of this time being without the Fathers permission. From the tone of the advert it has to be assumed that the Father has now sadly passed away. A certain TR Enthusiast has full knowledge of this particular car’s history and the trials and tribulations it has endured. Richard
  6. Hi Phil, Each of those items are after market accessory parts and thus nothing to do with Standard Triumph. The accessory manufacturer's obviously took little or no note of how Triumph presented the shields. Regards, Richard
  7. Hi Phil, Check out the "Bible" - the Moss Catalogue, all the badge differences are listed. Same details are given in Original Triumph TR2/3/3A by Bill Piggott. Regards, Richard
  8. Andy, The Lucas L658 Side Light You may well have already re-wired your errant side light, however I thought it might to useful to mention some of the quirks’ and problems that can arise with these lights. Problematically the whole lamp unit can easily be mounted upside down; I have seen many cars with this mistake.The metal lamp body has a projecting shade and this must always be at the top, this ensures that the plastic lens is mounted correctly with its clear magnified area at the bottom, original lenses are externally marked “Lucas” across this part of the lens. The lens is removed by exerting pressure on the lens whilst turning the lens anti-clockwise – from 9 o’clock to approximately 7 o’clock. Each lens has two cut outs in its rim and they should have parallel edges, if they are not parallel it means they have been broken during assembly or removal – these cut outs are the entry points for the steel locking tabs on the lamp body.One side of each cut out is thinner and slopes up to a step and thence a flat area – this is where the steel tab is retained.Lenses with broken cut-outs can be used providing that the all important “step” is still intact. This then moves into another possible problem, each lamp must be assembled with the two gaskets, the first to go on is made from a sponge rubber which compresses to allow the lens to be removed. Next is the all important thin clear plastic gasket, this allows the lens to slide round as it is pushed inwards and rotated – without this part, over time, the sponge rubber gasket often gets brittle and the lens either sticks or digs into the sponge and when changing a bulb the lens can be hard to remove, possibly breaking the edges of the cut outs. Finally, if the chrome rim becomes detached from the lens, the chrome rim should be re-fitted with the two small creases to its inner diameter lining up with the two clear wings on the lens which sit at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock. This is how the original lamps were manufactured and it is by gripping these two clear wings that the lens and rim are removed from the car. Apologies for the length and waffle of this piece...!!!!!!!!!! Regards, Richard P.S By the way, for any technical research into any matter on a TR your first port of call has to be the “Moss Sales Catalogue” this has it all, illustrations and text – it is the Bible.......!!!!
  9. Hi John, I think the item below qualifies as the tool for the job, it is called a ROST – Restorer Of Spoilt Threads A fully engineered solution for dealing with damaged threads, thought to be from the 1930’s, however it is limited to three thread types – BSF, Whit and Metric. Regards, Richard
  10. Andy, I stripped out an original pump and fitted a short piston, a spring, a Lucas switch and alloy end bung, thus externally it all looks original. If you want a copy of the sketch I made, send me a P.M. with an e-mail address. Regards, Richard
  11. Steven, The wiper motor that you have - Lucas DR3A 75501 - is a two speed model and was only fitted to the Lotus Elan from 1964 to 1966. Be aware this is a rare wiper motor, so persevere and get it working......! Regards, Richard
  12. Hi Dom, It is unusual for that steel lever to wear. Most problems occur with the alloy plunger that fits inside - it is round with two wings which wear. Worth checking again. I think I have spares of each item. Regards Richard
  13. Dan, I can provide you with a Formula Boss – period manufactured cast alloy with the 36 No. splines as required for a TR. The difficultly will be modifying your wheel – an accurate square hole would have to be cut at the centre of the hub and three small holes drilled around it for location screws. The Formula wheels have a Duralium frame which is 1/8” in thickness which allows the projection of the square end of the Boss to project through and sit flush with the top of the wheel ready for bolting in place. Visually your wheel appears to have at least two thicknesses of metal at its hub, what is its actual overall thickness..? All Formula wheels were finished top and bottom with black injection moulded shrouds which were all “Model specific” and I do not have these for a TR2. I do have shrouds for TR4, 2000, Stag, MGB, Mini, Anglia, Volvo PV 544, Hillman Hunter and could check amongst these for a match or near match, but would need many dimensions for the comparison. Another route might be to try a Les Leston accessory Boss kit, however they are not easy to find and can be expensive, however again I think you find problems in trying to combine your wheel with an LL. What is the name of the manufacturer of your wheel..? if known I think I would start with them. If you send me a P.M. with an e-mail I can send you photos showing the make-up of a Formula steering wheel as it is a good system and far neater than the likes of Motolita. Regards, Richard
  14. Dan, You would have to find a "period" boss - such as were fitted to the Formula accessory steering wheels. I have further details if required as your wheel would require a bit of re-engineering to make one fit. Regards, Richard
  15. Pete, I think you will find that this fan has an offset hub and thus places the blades closer to the radiator. The Spitfire fan is the reverse of this and moves the blades away from the radiator. The Spitfire fan has an overall diameter of 12.1/2", it will be interesting to learn the diameter of the fan that you have acquired. Regards, Richard
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