RAHTR4

Marcel, Thank you for that confirmed information, it is something I had not read before. On checking both TR4 and TR4A handbooks, I note the TR4 version, which has a publishing date of September 1961 goes on to state the following : “For your own protection, numbers are engraved on the keys only. No numbers are shown on the face of the locks. In your own interests, you are advised to record the key number for future reference, so that in in the event of loss, replacement keys may be obtained without difficulty.” As I confirmed earlier, my TR4 returned from the USA with all

Greg, Omitted photo. Regards, Richard

Greg, Looking at the photo, I think the ignition lock barrel will fit as the SS end cap looks to be the same thickness as an original part. The barrel on the left looks a similar length to the boot lid lock barrel, but you can exchange these tynes into your existing barrel as it is an FS type. These lock barrels fail when the small end post wears or shears off completely. The barrel in the centre looks too short for anything on a TR4, but again you can use the tynes. The F876 barrels could be used to provide tynes to turn into more FS 929’s – as you will have both tyne

Greg, Not a problem at all. I use to sell lock parts at each TR International and were they were laid out in a large shallow box, which did not travel well and the parts got thrown about, however I had lists. However I never updated the lists after something sold, I have now sorted out all the FS lock barrels and was right my lists were well out of date, now I know precisely what I have. I will be interested to see the photos, the ignition key lock barrel should fit, other than the caveat I previously stated, I would guess that the other lock barrels will not fit a TR4, so

Greg, I have to say this is now getting a little bit confusing. As previously stated, all keys were FS series and two types of key were originally supplied with each TR4, a round ended key for the ignition switch, each of the door locks and boot lock – image previously sent. The glove box lock key was different in that it had a rectangular end which ran long ways parallel to the dash, which was nicknamed the Barn door key – image previously sent. I have also been told on a number of occasions that the separate numbered key for the glove box was provided because the USA mark

Greg, As far as I am aware, Triumph only fitted FS series keys to the TR4 & TR4A. An FP key will not fit into an FS lock barrel because they have totally different sectional shapes. However I think you said you had purchased a new lock for the glove box and you were going to use a separate key, so that can remain in place, leaving four lock barrels to source. You certainly have a mixture of keys and lock barrels, as Stuart has pointed out worn keys can be forced into a wrong lock barrel. You really need to check the numbers stamped on each of the lock barrels to be

Greg, From the “sideways” link the conclusion the last post in Jan 2015 from someone named the “KeyGuy” says he learned from Peter Weston aka “The Lock Man” the UK Key / Lock Guru who passed away in 2017. His statement reads as follows : Since my last post on the wafer’s, re-keying the locks learned per Peter Weston that the FNR, FA, FP and FS all used the same wafer’s with No. 1, being no cut on the key, No. 2, small cut and No. 3, big cut. If you can see a key code on the face of the ignition switch lock insert or find the number on the lock housing. After the above

Greg, Strange, I have now looked at the Moss Morris Minor lock sets and they are all shown as being out of stock and no mention of an FP identification..? The only related item which actually is in stock is an FS series key blank, identified a Key No. 55, for £2.94. One thing to note is that an FP key will not fit into an FS lock barrel due to the sectional shape differences. I think the tynes for FS and FP might well be the same, however I am unable to confirm this because currently I only have loose tynes from FS lock barrels. So, on balance I do not think buying FP

Greg, Whatever you do – do not purchase exterior door handles from Moss because they are nothing like the original design. In addition to internal differences, the mounting fixings are in different positions requiring the TR4 bodywork to be drilled and original holes infilled. The bigger problem is they do not provide the facility to lock or un-lock the door using the interior handle. The new reproduction exterior door handles and lock barrels are the same design as produced for the Bedford TK Lorry, which being predominantly used by a Driver only did not warrant the doors to be

Greg, Two types of key were originally supplied with each TR4, a round ended key for the ignition switch, the door locks and boot lock. The glove box lock key was different in that it had a rectangular end which ran long ways parallel to the dash, which was nicknamed the barn door key. I have attached photos of the two types. I have no confirmed information that all TR4 key were brass, however my car is a late TR4 and came back from the USA with well worn Wilmot Breedon brass keys and the original locks as the numbers matched those on the BMIHT certificate. Regards Ric

Apologies, my mistake, I missed the original post was a six pot...!!! However, just to clarify the first EC has the following description : Trial Run of 25,000 pairs of Valve Rocker Forgings made in EN.32B Steel instead of EN.8. So I would assume the forged recess in place of a drilled dimple was the actual identification measure. Regards, Richard

John, How have you confirmed that the rockers you purchased were original new old stock parts..?? I have a Standard Triumph Engineering Change Sheet dated 23-3-1965 stating that the material was to be changed from EN.32B to EN8. This was followed by an ECS dated 31-3-1966 which states that 25,000 pairs were being manufactured. The forgings were to be identified by a recess in place of the present Drilled Dimple. They will be delivered to Fletch South by Garringtons and are to Copper Plated before being sent to Radford for machining. All the TR4A engines I have see

Greg, Not a problem, always ready and waiting. In my experience in order to obtain a good working lock requires all the constituent parts of the lock to be in very good condition for it to operate correctly. Searching and buying the tynes will be a long job, followed by trying to make a set fit correctly for a specific key pattern. I would also always recommend using new original keys, because many reproduction keys are manufactured in steel which will wear any lock out in short order. Regards, Richard

Greg, Over the years I have changed all five lock internals on my TR4, but I transferred all the original brass tynes into new old stock original parts because all the barrels / parts and housings had far too much wear. I do still have some spare parts, all original Wilmot Breedon either new old stock or good second-hand, these are mainly the ignition switch type barrels some with new keys, I also have a few loose “tyne sets” which I remove from un-useable barrels. If you let me know which specific key number you are searching for I might be able to help. As previously ment

Rob, I totally agree a “Remax Contact Setting Gauge” is the best and simplest way to accurately adjust the points. They first appeared at the London Motor Show in December 1957 and were sold in a transparent tube with green cap and base – the green being the Remax company colour. Regards, Richard