Waterless engine Coolant

[Cambsguy]

Is it worth draining/flushing the engine of water coolant and replacing it with waterless coolant, any tips etc? 

Edited April 11 by Cambsguy

[Hawk]

No - not in my opinion

[harrytr5]

I am not qualified but will not use it. Think there is an article in the States of why they do not use it. Check it out.

Regards Harry

[RogerH]

Plain water has the best heat capturing properties.  Adding any coolant reduces this ability.

100% coolant has the least ability.

It will not boil over but will get quite hot.

From a practical point of view you will need to carry a gallon or so in the boot just in case you need a top up en route.

 

Roger

[matt george]

Short (polite) answer… no

Matt

Edited April 11 by matt george

[rcreweread]

I thought I'd read somewhere that it's flammable - I wouldn't want to drive around with a gallon of petrol strapped to the front of my rad, if it's true! I don't think they allow it in race cars, maybe for that reason.

Cheers Rich C-R

[Steve 286]

I am sure Richard is right it is flammable providing the engines okay with a good water pump fan and radiator there’s no reason for it to overheat I just use distilled water with a 50-50 mix of blue Antifreeze I do have a 82° thermostat  restorations Upgraded water pump and 16 inch electric fan behind the rad it does seem very efficient

[michaelfinnis]

I believe the main benefit is a lighter wallet so that you go faster.

Mike

[stuart]

Dont its snake oil, and flammable under pressure hence banned for racing. Ordinary antifreeze (Blue) works perfectly well.

Stuart.

[Crawfie]

I had this stuff in my 6 from when i got the car. Caused no end of problems. **** stuff

Stick with Bluecol and water.  

[ed_h]

1. It has lower heat carrying capacity than either water or 50/50 mix.

2. It's flammable.

3. It is just straight glycols--no reason for it to cost what it does.

It's a gimmicky product aimed at people who think that more expensive means better.

[cp25616]

Definitely not for me. I use Toyota red and Forlife before thatwith no worries at all. Dr. Michael Bingley used to use Forlife without water in his TR6 and swore by it. When it was available I used Forlife too and it was great. 

Alan G

[roy53]

I think that you get the clear message NO from all the above posts.

COMPETITION Engine builders void any  guarantee if used

Roy

 

Edited April 11 by roy53

[Peter Cobbold]

I'd use it...........in a museum exhibit. But not in a car for driving. It conducts heat worse than water so it increases detonation risk, the enemy of supercharging.

Peter

[Steve-B]

The only motors I've ever seen the justification for use in is Ally blocks, like Rover K-series engines. There you don't want water to contact ally I'm told as there is a reaction over time hence Caterham/Lotus owners use a waterless coolant which name I cannot recall.

[FatJon]

It's expensive, it's flammable, it has a lower heat capacity than water, it has slower heat transfer than water. You need to carry even more of it around with you in case you spring a minor leak, or contaminate it with water to get you home then buy it all over again. Its only use is if you have a snake that requires lubrication.

 

Rather like stuff that "dissolves carbon" from your engine. Challenge the vendor to name one substance in which carbon is soluble other than molten iron.

[jimt]

It’s already in the 6 I’ve recently bought!!!
Reading the responses I think I’d like to remove it from the system. But some advice please - Is it just a case of draining and running a hose down the rad to flush or do I need to fill with plain water again, run it to circulate it and drain/flush again. Thanks in anticipation 
 

[RobH]

24 minutes ago, jimt said:

Reading the responses I think I’d like to remove it from the system. But some advice please - Is it just a case of draining and running a hose down the rad to flush or do I need to fill with plain water again, run it to circulate it and drain/flush again.

No need for drastic measures to clean it out - it's basically just neat antifreeze so residue will do no harm and will readily mix with the new coolant .  

 

 

Edited April 12 by RobH

[stuart]

15 hours ago, RobH said:

No need for drastic measures to clean it out - it's basically just neat antifreeze so residue will do no harm and will readily mix with the new coolant .  

 

 

It will need a good flush Im afraid as its very slippery and you do need to get it out of the heater.

Stuart.

[jimt]

On 4/13/2024 at 12:28 PM, stuart said:

It will need a good flush Im afraid as its very slippery and you do need to get it out of the heater.

Stuart.

Thanks Stuart - I thought that might be a good idea as it’s quick thick and took an age to drain- got out about 6litres so there’s still a pint in there clinging on to internals- and yes it is very slippy!!

[RobH]

Glycol is completely miscible with water , so will form a mixture as soon as it comes in contact with circulating water, it won't stay as a separate layer underneath.  If it were otherwise how could you mix bluecol with water when you re-fill ? 

 

[stuart]

34 minutes ago, RobH said:

Glycol is completely miscible with water , so will form a mixture as soon as it comes in contact with circulating water, it won't stay as a separate layer underneath.  If it were otherwise how could you mix bluecol with water when you re-fill ? 

 

Im not sure if there isnt something else in the Evans stuff as it doesnt seem to mix that well with water which is possibly why they say you have to get rid of all the water in the system before filling with it. Its a bit like an oily feel to it.

Stuart.

[RobH]

Yes there is other stuff in there but they don't say what percentage. The MSDS says:

"Patented blend of synthetic diols with ADH Enzyme blocker and non-aqueous corrosion Inhibitors for I.C. engines"

 

 

 

[stuart]

15 minutes ago, RobH said:

 

"Patented blend of synthetic diols with ADH Enzyme blocker and non-aqueous corrosion Inhibitors for I.C. engines"

 

 

 

Brackets "Snake oil!"

Stuart.

[RobH]