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Hawk

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    396
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About Hawk

Profile Information

  • Location
    Warwick
  • Cars Owned:
    1974 TR6 PI

Recent Profile Visitors

632 profile views
  1. Thanks Roger. No I don't have a locking nut .... my tatty leather knob screws down tightly and stays put but not my wooden one. Good idea - thanks This is the path I was thinking of .... and I will also add a locking nut.
  2. Anyone know what it is? My gear knob rotates too easily on the thread an, although petty, it annoys me, so I want to put a new threaded insert into the knob. TIA
  3. Depends what you want to do. Scissor lifts are not much use if you want to work on the sills and a good number making working on the underneath of the car tricky - but are brilliant for working on wheels, brakes etc. 2 post or 4 post lifts needs a lot of space and not really suited to domestic garages. For some jobs (and most people), ramps and axle stands are enough. I toyed with a number of solutions (2 post lift, 4 post parking lift, scissor lift) and in the end have just bought these https://cjautosheywood.co.uk/product/heavy-duty-scissor-hydraulic-car-ramps-1360kg-cr06x
  4. Hawk

    DVLA Inspection

    My mate had a devil of a job registering his RS2000 and was visited 3 times by a DVLA inspector. They seem to be paranoid about cars being cloned, rung or incorrectly registered. And he was directly challenged over rust free South African parts he had fitted as they were very slightly different to UK spec!
  5. Some great replies above. I wish your friend good luck in his search.
  6. I would agree if CP cars ever made 150bhp and there was a real world difference with CR cars ... but that '25 horsepower' difference never actually existed due to differing testing protocols. And nowadays, the difference is negligable and you may well find a CR engine stronger than a CP engine? Certainly, my CR engine is stronger (albeit after a full rebuild, new cam and exhaust) is stronger than some CP cars I have driven. As for overdrive, I agree that is personal preference but for me (I only ever really use od for A road / motorway cruising) J is better as revs are reduced more (as
  7. Out of curiosity, why is the search limited to a CP car?
  8. That is exactly what I am looking to do (but with green leds). Thanks for the info on sources for clocks
  9. Thanks for all of the tips ....looks like the dash is coming out. But not yet .... with the dash out I will want to do more than just sort the bulbs and rheostat and I don't want to take the car off the road until early next year.
  10. De Definitely not turned off rheostat. No amount of twiddling has got it working
  11. I was hoping to avoid taking the dash out ..... and to do this I will need to remove the other instruments will I not? And this creates the same issues for my fat hands!
  12. My instrument lights have all failed and so I am assuming that the rehostat is fried as all other bulbs ok. But I cannot for the life of me locate a spanner on the retaining nuts. I can see where I need to get to (best view obtained by removing the ash try) but my sausage fingers seem to stop me getting to them. Any tips? I plan to bypass the rheostat anyway and use the hole to mount a clock so have considered cutting / drilling it out from the front but thought I would ask on here first. Next I want to swap to LED bulbs as well so expect more stupid how to questions!
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