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FatJon

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  1. I use one of those for rough settings on my telescope to get aimed close enough to then do a proper alignment. They are useful but not super accurate or repeatable. If I set mine to 52 degrees and look for the north star I’ll be lucky to find it without a fair bit of tweaking. 1 degree error with the valves about 2” apart is 150 thou, so it may not be ideal.
  2. Polybushes should not get squidgy. If they do then they are probably not polyurethane. I have polybushes on cars 20+ years old and yes, they wear and even split after a lot of weather and abuse but they have never gone squidgy or looked rotten like those.
  3. If you look here at the cars around 16sec 1/4 mile you should see some fair comparisons. It's not super fast even if it's tuned up a bit but that's not what it's about. That said I suppose comparing it to other cars may tell you if it's performing as it should within a reasonable margin. https://www.carwow.co.uk/blog/carwow-quarter-mile-400-metre-1320-ft-time-drag-race-leaderboard#gref
  4. You can get sheets of the metalised exhaust gasket on EBay and make your own. I’ve used them with great success on various engines where gaskets are unavailable or poor quality fibrous rubbish. The sheet is metalised both sides with softer sealing layer between them. With strong hands and a stout pair if scissors you can cut it, the big holes can be done with a stanley knife or hole saw depending on the required shape. When drilling for bolt/stud holes it’s best to do it between two pieces of wood to avoid ragged edges.
  5. Get that hat on. I love mine! If you get the brackets right they sit nice and low.
  6. Both my trailing arms had cracks in them when the suspension was rebuilt last year. 50 year old aluminium, work hardened, corroded and pounded. It’s well worth checking them, a TIG repair is cheaper than the alternative.
  7. I had troubles with a new digital temperature gauge which was using the grounds behind the dash. When the load increased the elderly TR6 grounds were rising considerably above 0V due to the old wiring having a higher resistance than it should and slightly corroded connectors. This made the temperature gauge over read badly and also made the voltmeter under read variably according to the load. EG turn up the radio or use the cigarette lighter, GND rises to 0.8V, voltmeter drops from 12.8 to 12V and electronic temperature gauge goes from 85C to 102C as the ground the gauge sees is now 0.8V highe
  8. FatJon

    Wiper Blades

    My TR6 never sees the rain but I put PIAA silicones on my TVR as it has a notoriously pathetic motor and a screen contour which is very hard for wiper blades to track efficiently. They are a transformation compared with the many others I've tried over the years. They came with some cleaning cloths which did a very good job of getting the road gunge off the screen too. I'm very impressed with them.
  9. If you get them the wrong way around the only consequence will be the motor runs the wrong way and blows bubbles in the screen wash bottle. Just try it and see.
  10. FatJon

    A perfect day

    After a year of hard work and wallet exercise I got in the car yesterday morning and just drove it for 2 hours with the lid down in the sun. Pretty much everything worked perfectly and I parked it back in the garage with that brilliant feeling of a job well done. The only little fault was the new temperature gauge was over reading but I already knew it was on the blink and had another new one ready for fitting, and even that’s sorted now. The EFI is now dialled in lovely, brakes and suspension like new (mainly because they are new) and a smart interior. Fantastic to get back to the feeling of
  11. Understood, that is a very different situation to mine in the East of England.
  12. £1000 EXCHANGE! For a second hand engine. Cuckoo land.
  13. Fuel pressure regulator at the back of the car? Struggling to picture how that works for an EFI system. Certainly not how it is on any car I ever saw. Usual would be one end of the fuel rail fed by pump, other end of the rail to the regulator then a pipe from the other port of the regulator back down the length of the car to the tank. That way there is a continual flow through the rail. That’s how mine is and the rail is ice cold. If you don’t have that flow the fuel can be sat baking in the rail for ages before it gets injected. Or maybe I misunderstood your description?
  14. Yes, the tiny metal return pipe on the PI is too small as most of the time 99% of what is pumped to the front recirculates back to the tank. I replaced all of it with modern hose, -8 from tank to pump and with -6 hose to and from engine. Cost is minimal for the security of all new hoses. Installing it along the chassis and through diff cradle is a PITA but not too big a deal. The JIC connectors (if you use them) are dear but on the scale of TR6 parts not silly money.
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