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  1. I bought a TIG from R-Tech some years ago and I too had zero experience of TIG welding. Getting to grips with stainless was relatively easy and I can now make a reasonable job of most steel jobs but Aluminium was a bigger challenge. My tips may seem obvious but they were not so obvious to me when I started out. My number 1 tip is to make sure it's clean, very very clean, shiny, degreased with brake cleaner and use a stainless brush so you don't ingrain muck or grease into the surface. The cleaner it is the less cleaning current you need and the more of the heat goes into the weld rat
  2. I'm a long way from Staffordshire but I too have a fully working Megasquirt install using MS3. I am also happy to provide info, parts list, pictures, video, tuning maps or general assistance. I don't have the parts list as a complete ready to go document as much of it was ordered as I went along but now It's finished I know what's on it and where it came from. Electrical connectors are often an interesting challenge. I got a trigger wheel and a timing cover with the right sensor bracket from Racestorations, off the shelf. This is one of the more tiresome parts of the job so a ready made k
  3. I use wrap on several cars with stainless manifolds, most notably a TVR Cerbera V8 which had a serious under bonnet heat problem. I use 2" wrap and a wide stainless steel tie wrap every 8-12". It's not pretty after 10 years but when I had cause to rewrap one side of the engine recently there was no sign of any damage to the steel and this particular car has done some time on track besides normal road use. Ceramic coating is IMHO good only for aesthetics. It has little, if any, effect on under bonnet temperatures. This usually causes a squawk from people who have spent hundreds on it for the wr
  4. Valid point Charlie. I didn't think of that.
  5. And a wife who will drive it back from the pub while I blow bubbles in the passenger seat
  6. Not planning anything too extreme. I'm thinking Newman fast road cam, forged rods and pistons and a few aftermarket bits like aluminium end plates and sump and the steel block behind the timing cover so I can tighten it up without stripping threads. Looking for a good tuner to do me a head.
  7. My winter project is to build a new engine with a bit more oomph and one of these and a vernier is on the Christmas list.
  8. I've got one of those Audi vacuum pumps sat on the shelf from an unfinished project 10 years ago. If the Volvo servo doesn't fit I'll give that a try. Maybe mount it on rubbers somewhere further away though. Lovely engine bay Gavin.
  9. FatJon

    Exhaust Fumes

    I used a Zeitronix wide band EEGO meter and gauge. http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/Zt-3/Zt-3.shtml http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/ZR-3/ZR-3.shtml On mine it's easy enough to adjust as it's just a case of plugging in a laptop but for a standard Lucas PI you would need advice from someone more knowledgable on that system than me.
  10. FatJon

    Exhaust Fumes

    An update. 1. I first went over the bulkhead very carefully and sealed any holes. That had not much effect which is not really surprising as I always have the roof down anyway. 2. retuned the idle to run at 14.7:1 rather than 13.5:1 air fuel ratio along with all the cruise area of the fuel map. That had a massive effect on the stink and a significant improvement on the fuel consumption but still not acceptable. 3. I added an extra breather from what was the fuel pump boss on the block and joined both this and the rocker box breather to a catch tank, then the catch tank to each o
  11. I would have to ask why the seller doesn't spend 1k fixing the gearbox and then sell it for at least 10k more? That would prompt me to be very careful indeed.
  12. Is that 8 degrees static or 8 degrees with vacuum, when idling with a strobe light? Mine runs best with about 18 degrees advance measured at idle with a strobe. That's a UK spec PI engine. It seems to make little difference between 15 and 22 degrees idle crank advance but if I went down to 8 things get a little rough. Full advance with no vacuum (ie wide open throttle) is all in at about 32 degrees crank advance from 3000 rpm upwards. This is a mappable system though so if your isn't mappable you have to compromise a little at one end or the other as best idle might be too much advance at high
  13. Thanks Jochem, It gets no better than this, an engineering drawing
  14. I just ordered one so soon we will know for sure. I certainly have enough space between servo and the intakes but servo to inner wing may be close.
  15. Jochem, what are dimensions of the adapter plate? I'm going to order a chunk of aluminium ready cut to save me some work.
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