Cambsguy Posted April 11 Report Share Posted April 11 (edited) Is it worth draining/flushing the engine of water coolant and replacing it with waterless coolant, any tips etc? Edited April 11 by Cambsguy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Posted April 11 Report Share Posted April 11 No - not in my opinion Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted April 11 Report Share Posted April 11 I am not qualified but will not use it. Think there is an article in the States of why they do not use it. Check it out. Regards Harry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 11 Report Share Posted April 11 Plain water has the best heat capturing properties. Adding any coolant reduces this ability. 100% coolant has the least ability. It will not boil over but will get quite hot. From a practical point of view you will need to carry a gallon or so in the boot just in case you need a top up en route. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
matt george Posted April 11 Report Share Posted April 11 (edited) Short (polite) answer… no Matt Edited April 11 by matt george Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted April 11 Report Share Posted April 11 I thought I'd read somewhere that it's flammable - I wouldn't want to drive around with a gallon of petrol strapped to the front of my rad, if it's true! I don't think they allow it in race cars, maybe for that reason. Cheers Rich C-R Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve 286 Posted April 11 Report Share Posted April 11 I am sure Richard is right it is flammable providing the engines okay with a good water pump fan and radiator there’s no reason for it to overheat I just use distilled water with a 50-50 mix of blue Antifreeze I do have a 82° thermostat restorations Upgraded water pump and 16 inch electric fan behind the rad it does seem very efficient Quote Link to post Share on other sites
michaelfinnis Posted April 11 Report Share Posted April 11 I believe the main benefit is a lighter wallet so that you go faster. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 11 Report Share Posted April 11 Dont its snake oil, and flammable under pressure hence banned for racing. Ordinary antifreeze (Blue) works perfectly well. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crawfie Posted April 11 Report Share Posted April 11 I had this stuff in my 6 from when i got the car. Caused no end of problems. **** stuff Stick with Bluecol and water. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted April 11 Report Share Posted April 11 1. It has lower heat carrying capacity than either water or 50/50 mix. 2. It's flammable. 3. It is just straight glycols--no reason for it to cost what it does. It's a gimmicky product aimed at people who think that more expensive means better. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cp25616 Posted April 11 Report Share Posted April 11 Definitely not for me. I use Toyota red and Forlife before thatwith no worries at all. Dr. Michael Bingley used to use Forlife without water in his TR6 and swore by it. When it was available I used Forlife too and it was great. Alan G Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted April 11 Report Share Posted April 11 (edited) I think that you get the clear message NO from all the above posts. COMPETITION Engine builders void any guarantee if used Roy Edited April 11 by roy53 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted April 11 Report Share Posted April 11 I'd use it...........in a museum exhibit. But not in a car for driving. It conducts heat worse than water so it increases detonation risk, the enemy of supercharging. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve-B Posted April 12 Report Share Posted April 12 The only motors I've ever seen the justification for use in is Ally blocks, like Rover K-series engines. There you don't want water to contact ally I'm told as there is a reaction over time hence Caterham/Lotus owners use a waterless coolant which name I cannot recall. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FatJon Posted April 12 Report Share Posted April 12 It's expensive, it's flammable, it has a lower heat capacity than water, it has slower heat transfer than water. You need to carry even more of it around with you in case you spring a minor leak, or contaminate it with water to get you home then buy it all over again. Its only use is if you have a snake that requires lubrication. Rather like stuff that "dissolves carbon" from your engine. Challenge the vendor to name one substance in which carbon is soluble other than molten iron. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimt Posted April 12 Report Share Posted April 12 It’s already in the 6 I’ve recently bought!!! Reading the responses I think I’d like to remove it from the system. But some advice please - Is it just a case of draining and running a hose down the rad to flush or do I need to fill with plain water again, run it to circulate it and drain/flush again. Thanks in anticipation Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted April 12 Report Share Posted April 12 (edited) 24 minutes ago, jimt said: Reading the responses I think I’d like to remove it from the system. But some advice please - Is it just a case of draining and running a hose down the rad to flush or do I need to fill with plain water again, run it to circulate it and drain/flush again. No need for drastic measures to clean it out - it's basically just neat antifreeze so residue will do no harm and will readily mix with the new coolant . Edited April 12 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 13 Report Share Posted April 13 15 hours ago, RobH said: No need for drastic measures to clean it out - it's basically just neat antifreeze so residue will do no harm and will readily mix with the new coolant . It will need a good flush Im afraid as its very slippery and you do need to get it out of the heater. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimt Posted April 15 Report Share Posted April 15 On 4/13/2024 at 12:28 PM, stuart said: It will need a good flush Im afraid as its very slippery and you do need to get it out of the heater. Stuart. Thanks Stuart - I thought that might be a good idea as it’s quick thick and took an age to drain- got out about 6litres so there’s still a pint in there clinging on to internals- and yes it is very slippy!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted April 15 Report Share Posted April 15 Glycol is completely miscible with water , so will form a mixture as soon as it comes in contact with circulating water, it won't stay as a separate layer underneath. If it were otherwise how could you mix bluecol with water when you re-fill ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 15 Report Share Posted April 15 34 minutes ago, RobH said: Glycol is completely miscible with water , so will form a mixture as soon as it comes in contact with circulating water, it won't stay as a separate layer underneath. If it were otherwise how could you mix bluecol with water when you re-fill ? Im not sure if there isnt something else in the Evans stuff as it doesnt seem to mix that well with water which is possibly why they say you have to get rid of all the water in the system before filling with it. Its a bit like an oily feel to it. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted April 15 Report Share Posted April 15 Yes there is other stuff in there but they don't say what percentage. The MSDS says: "Patented blend of synthetic diols with ADH Enzyme blocker and non-aqueous corrosion Inhibitors for I.C. engines" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 15 Report Share Posted April 15 15 minutes ago, RobH said: "Patented blend of synthetic diols with ADH Enzyme blocker and non-aqueous corrosion Inhibitors for I.C. engines" Brackets "Snake oil!" Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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