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4a. Won’t start after full rebuild. Any ideas what to check next pse?


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That’s great for you , well done 

it’s always a learning process 

not to put a downer on it but I would move the d drive one more notch clockwise .

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1 hour ago, roy53 said:

That’s great for you , well done 

it’s always a learning process 

not to put a downer on it but I would move the d drive one more notch clockwise .

+1 (from experience)

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2 hours ago, iain said:

Well done, result.
Agreed that distributor drive is still one tooth out.

I didn’t make it clear. The pics of the dizzy are before I moved it clockwise a tooth.  Happy Days.  Cheers.  Beer consumed,

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9 hours ago, John Morrison said:

Many congratulations Steven, 

hope you are well chuffed with yourself.

John.

 This is one for the TRAction forum update page. Well done as this was a challenging one.

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Especially because there was more than 1 fault diagnosed and cured to allow it to start, (bowed inlet manifold faces).

Mick Richards 

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20 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

So, now ‘we’ have fixed it what’s next?

well done that man for determined perseverance 

I'm going to take the old cam wheels off, mark up the new ones and refit the new ones.  Then onto getting it running for longer than 3 seconds!

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3 hours ago, Hamish said:

 This is one for the TRAction forum update page. Well done as this was a challenging one.

Hi All,

I have to say upon reflection, I was confused by the engine appearing to 'try' and start from the beginning.  I thought it was so close and others agreed with me.  This led me away from the valve timing.  You guys have been great, and I salute you, but I think I was a rabbit in the headlights with so many ideas and ways to fix it.  Always more ways than one to skin the cat.  I have learnt so much and I appreciate that. 

Once back to the valve timing with the old chain wheels on, it fired up first turn.  The manual is definitely confusing or at least it is to me.  The wording could be better.  And manufacturers should read this thread - it's so much easier with chain wheels which have marks on them!!

Next is to learn about tuning ignition timing and carbs!  Then get the dash in and the wiring. 

My aim is to have a day in the Yorkshire Dales in the TR next summer with my dad (who used to have a 4a).  That's when I plan to celebrate.

Cheers All.

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8 minutes ago, Steven Whitaker said:

I'm going to take the old cam wheels off, mark up the new ones and refit the new ones.  Then onto getting it running for longer than 3 seconds!

Hi Steve

well done for perseverance in the face of adversity. There is an old saying - if it ain't broke don't fix it. If the old cam wheels are fine and work........

Anyway from one tuning to another. While you have been tuning up your car I have been restoring and tuning up an old 6 chord mandolin zither and repairing the carrying case. Some of our German readers may appreciate this link. (not me playing I hasten to add although can get some sort of tune out of it.)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hqtdq06bgOM

Keith

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56 minutes ago, keith1948 said:

Hi Steve

well done for perseverance in the face of adversity. There is an old saying - if it ain't broke don't fix it. If the old cam wheels are fine and work........

Anyway from one tuning to another. While you have been tuning up your car I have been restoring and tuning up an old 6 chord mandolin zither and repairing the carrying case. Some of our German readers may appreciate this link. (not me playing I hasten to add although can get some sort of tune out of it.)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hqtdq06bgOM

Keith

One for.  ‘In the shed this weekend’  

 

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6 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

One for.  ‘In the shed this weekend’  

 

Hi Keith.  Is the mandolin as frustrating as restoring a TR?

It’s tempting to use the old wheels as they do look fine…. Just fit a new chain and move perhaps?

I felt better after reading the shed thread!  At least I’m not alone ha ha.

cheers, Steven.

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20 hours ago, Steven Whitaker said:

Hi All,

I have to say upon reflection, I was confused by the engine appearing to 'try' and start from the beginning.  I thought it was so close and others agreed with me.  This led me away from the valve timing.  You guys have been great, and I salute you, but I think I was a rabbit in the headlights with so many ideas and ways to fix it.  Always more ways than one to skin the cat.  I have learnt so much and I appreciate that. 

Once back to the valve timing with the old chain wheels on, it fired up first turn.  The manual is definitely confusing or at least it is to me.  The wording could be better.  And manufacturers should read this thread - it's so much easier with chain wheels which have marks on them!!

Next is to learn about tuning ignition timing and carbs!  Then get the dash in and the wiring. 

My aim is to have a day in the Yorkshire Dales in the TR next summer with my dad (who used to have a 4a).  That's when I plan to celebrate.

Cheers All.

"Next is to learn about tuning ignition timing and carbs! "  I will give you my opinion, after the static ignition timing done there is not a specific advance degree number, all the TR motors are not adjusted the same only regarding the camshaft (  they where when they get out of the factory ). So at idle a lot of people turn clockwise the distributor slowly ( giving advance ) to reach the highest idle speed and get back slightly.

I do the same but with a vacuum meter for the highest vacuum and get back slightly. the needle is more precise than my hears. After that I check the carbs, having already brownish colour on the sparkplugs, I turn slightly the carb to lean than to rich normally the vacuum/needle won't change if the jet is well adjusted.

Of course if someone want to offer me a gas analyser is it OK.

 

   

 

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Tonight I transferred the marks from old to new chain wheels, fitted the new ones including new chain, put it all back together and I have 150 psi on all cylinders and she ran briefly as she did on the old sprockets.  Wish I’d done that in the first place!

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57 minutes ago, trchris said:

Hi Steven those figures seem fine once you’ve had a good run and deglazed the bores you may find it increases a bit too

the loom goes above the heater box 

Chris

Thanks Chris.

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I have enjoyed this thread and think it is great that Steven has fixed his problem. It reminds me of all the great help and advice from this forum when I was building up my 3a. This forum really is full of helpful people willing to share their time and experience 

 

cheers

Alan

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