rimmer Posted October 31, 2023 Report Share Posted October 31, 2023 uprated cv joints are they worth the money Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted October 31, 2023 Report Share Posted October 31, 2023 Well as they are roughly the same price as decent quality new standard components, then it's pretty much a no brainer! However, if you are prepared to use reconditioned hubs, with all the dangers associated with them, then CV set up will be more expensive, but at what price safety - I know what I would fit without question Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rimmer Posted October 31, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2023 these are the ones l mean outer axle shaft and hub assembly -rkc454cv- from rimmers over a £1000 for the pair Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted October 31, 2023 Report Share Posted October 31, 2023 (edited) There is a guy here in Australia that sells nicely made CV systems...diff stub axles to hubs...the bonus is that he can supply new diff stub axles, thus alleviating the need for an adapter. Edited October 31, 2023 by Malbaby Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CharlieBubbles Posted October 31, 2023 Report Share Posted October 31, 2023 (edited) Went for the CDD CVs at £1120 the pair and cheaper than fitting Alastair’s uprated rear hubs plus his uprated UJs so a no brainer given the hubs were due a replacement anyway and they would have been £880 the pair. Very happy with the performance - none of that locking up/hopping round the corner sensation. Edited November 4, 2023 by CharlieBubbles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted November 2, 2023 Report Share Posted November 2, 2023 Have the CDD cv jointed axle. Reason for buying was worries about existing hub integrity and issues wearing standard ujs out with the torque from my supercharger. Bonus with the cv jointed rear axles that I had not expected is a more supple ride. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted November 2, 2023 Report Share Posted November 2, 2023 As with all the cost of materials going up CDD are now dearer, but do not let that put you off. The safety is paramount and these are top quality. Quite a few of North London group members can qauntify this. Regards Harry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Macleesh Posted November 2, 2023 Report Share Posted November 2, 2023 Another vote for CDD from me, also fitted their upgraded stud kit whilst I was there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rimmer Posted November 2, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2023 thanks for your replies think l go ahead and get a pair Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rimmer Posted November 3, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2023 One last question are cdd cv the same as rimmer brother they look the same Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted November 3, 2023 Report Share Posted November 3, 2023 2 hours ago, rimmer said: One last question are cdd cv the same as rimmer brother they look the same Rob Hi Rob No idea if they are but I'd suggest buying from CDD. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DRD Posted November 4, 2023 Report Share Posted November 4, 2023 15 hours ago, rimmer said: One last question are cdd cv the same as rimmer brother they look the same Rob Probably are but with the Rimmers markup! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stagpowered Posted November 4, 2023 Report Share Posted November 4, 2023 The Rimmers ones are the same as CDD. I bought a set of rear hubs when Rimmers had one of there discounts on. I actually got them from Alasdair, he reduced the price to match the Rimmers sale price. He wasn't best pleased about Rimmers doing the discount. Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted November 4, 2023 Report Share Posted November 4, 2023 Not wanting to spoil the CDD love in, however, I thought I'd share pics of my GT6 solid shaft after it sheared on a French Autoroute. "SERIOUS UPGRADE FOR SERIOUS USERS" my ar5e! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
A Brit in Bama Posted November 4, 2023 Report Share Posted November 4, 2023 Any of you try the Good Parts CV axles from the US? Especially when installed in combination with their uprated hubs, I consider this a serious safety upgrade, and so (to answer the question of the original post) worth the money. Not to mention, the car runs smoother, and with less maintenance required (no greasing UJs etc.) https://www.goodparts.com/product-category/drive-train/upgraded-axle-hub-kits/ The pic shows one of the units before I installed it on my 71 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted November 4, 2023 Report Share Posted November 4, 2023 (edited) 3 hours ago, iani said: Not wanting to spoil the CDD love in, however, I thought I'd share pics of my GT6 solid shaft after it sheared on a French Autoroute. "SERIOUS UPGRADE FOR SERIOUS USERS" my ar5e! Iani, Not sure what your comment means regarding "spoiling the CDD love in" (people are just recounting their experiences, if you have something different to add please state it clearly for the avoidance of doubt) or your comment regarding "SERIOUS UPGRADE FOR SERIOUS USERS" my ar5e ! What does that mean and who said it ? Given that these photos are from your GT6 "solid shaft" and many of us (me for example) don't know where you got your failed component from or the circumstances perhaps you can elucidate the circumstances and what was said by the supplier when the failed component was presented back to them. Mick Richards Edited November 4, 2023 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted November 4, 2023 Report Share Posted November 4, 2023 2 hours ago, A Brit in Bama said: Any of you try the Good Parts CV axles from the US? Especially when installed in combination with their uprated hubs, I consider this a serious safety upgrade, and so (to answer the question of the original post) worth the money. Not to mention, the car runs smoother, and with less maintenance required (no greasing UJs etc.) https://www.goodparts.com/product-category/drive-train/upgraded-axle-hub-kits/ The pic shows one of the units before I installed it on my 71 No doubting the quality of GP items....the only thing that I do not like is having to use an adapter to connect their 5 bolt inner to the 4 bolt of the factory diff stub axles. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keith66 Posted November 5, 2023 Report Share Posted November 5, 2023 Hi All I’ve read different bits and pieces about CV joints and hubs but I’m not sure I’m 100% clear on the safety risks of the old version. Now correct me if I’m wrong in my thoughts but I know the splines will wear over time and you end up getting a clunk from the rear and eventually if left they will lock up and stop moving in and out with suspension movement which is not ideal. But the big issue seems to be that the hubs can separate if (and when?) the stub axle cracks and eventually breaks meaning the wheel is held on by errr nothing, which generally speaking is not good. So the big question is why does this happen? Is it just simply an age thing or is it (more likely?) that damage occurred when the hub assembly was split to facilitate bearing replacement? If the later is the case is there a specific way of splitting the hub that negates or at least lessens the risk of that happening and how long do the bearings last? My driveshafts and bearings seem to be ok, from the very limited amount of miles its driven since it became road worthy, but I’ve no idea what has or hasn’t been replaced prior to my getting it. So if bearings get all grumbly can the hub be safely split and bearings replaced? “If” the big safety risk is the stub axle breaking does replacing the hub with a good quality new one (rather than refurb) get rid of this risk? Cheers Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted November 5, 2023 Report Share Posted November 5, 2023 (edited) I think this subject is done to death Keith but here's a review of some of the reports and failures Now the hub has snapped, take the opportunity, look deep within, ...see the fretting marks on the matching surfaces, this hub has been cracked INSIDE and continued to hold together for some distance, over weeks and maybe months, until tested and driven to destruction... by the driver...could have been you. The problem with these parts are they are very inaccessible, built up components with difficult processes to split them apart which often means a 20 ton plus press and a oxy torch, if they weren't cracked before hand, they stand a good chance they are afterwards. There are many reconditioners who now won’t rebuild existing hubs, a spokesman for one claimed about 20% weren’t suitable for rebuilding being fractured inside, if he’s correct that’s a worrying number of failing hubs in use that could suffer the ultimate fate. We have the resource within the forum and over the years have catalogued these failures... many have, and their episodes are available to read from our own forum search facility, here’s just a few. Members report ...Regarding your squeak, I wouldn't drive it until you get to the bottom of the cause, my 6 had an annoying squeak from the rear audible at low speeds, when I took it to Enginuity for them to have a look at, the cause was as per Mick's photo, my hub had cracked 3/4 of the way round the flange, so the wheel was about to part company with the car. When I had the car rebuilt I went for these http://www.vessey-classic-car-servic...m#.XzEOLC2ZMwc not cheap and they do come with their own issues but at least I know that all the wheels should stay on the car. Members report...get new hubs and axles and if you can't afford them park the car until you can. It may not just be you who suffers but other road users. Refurbished are just old high mileage ones cleaned up and could break before you get out your driveway. The L/H stub axle broke just under the edge of the outer bearing where it couldn't be seen. It felt like a flat tyre, slowed down to about 80kph and there was a loud bang, the car (TR4a) went sideways and rolled 1 and a half times, lucky I had a rollbar* or I would not be writing this. Spent 7 weeks in hospital and now have two hands that are not a lot of use any more and a car that is going to take some time to repair. My brother has purchased a TR6 which he immediately pulled the hubs off and found 1 hub flange with the boss broken off like in the photo and the stub axle cracked and ready to part company on the right sides its off the road now until new hubs can be obtained. I have already purchased new C/V joint driveshafts and hubs from Rimmers which are waiting for my hands to start working to fit. *(please consider this, we have lost members because a rollbar and an alloy rear firewall in front of the fuel tank have not been fitted). Members report...We had a local member turn up an one of our meetings and we all laughed at the very obvious "squeak" every revolution of the back wheel as he slowly drove up - he is an engineer by profession and had searched high and low for the cause and even asked his local garage to investigate, all to no avail. None of us were laughing a week later when we learned his nearside wheel had overtaken him at 70mph on the A12 in the outside lane, and by the grace of god, he managed to avoid a massive accident. The hub had sheared just as in Mick's photos - guess what, it was a reconditioned hub from a well known TR parts supplier less than a year and 1500 miles previously. AAAaahhh I hear you say, but we can crack test components these days, in fact rebuilt hubs have been advertised as such, well our Forum has a TR owner whose career has been spent NDT (Non Destructive Testing) of aircraft frames and engine parts. Members comment...if you are going to rebuild a hub unit then seriously consider a new shaft item 42 Shaft (Stub axle). This is one of two things that can snap and you lose the wheel. The old shaft cannot be positively crack tested. It goes from good to broken in very short order, some of these high strength steel alloys do not help the NDEngineer (NDT...Non Destructive Testing) inspector as the period from start of cracking to failure can be very short. Also many of these steels allow micro cracking (un-inspectable) to exist for long periods before going bang. Aircraft parts that use these materials are usually 'lifed'....I think our original hubs are at the end of their life, they are dying. Members comment ....The rear hubs are nigh on impossible to detect prior to failure. We cannot be definitive upon what is causing stub axle or rear hub failure, or even what mileages it is likely to occur at, being in close company to each other often losing a wheel means accumulated damage to other components. But from the increasing reports of hub problems it would be sensible to consider whether replacement new hubs at the least should be included in future spending plans, presumably this would restart the time defrayed clock and allow some more decades of use. Members report... axle failures as components reach the limits of what these parts can stand....Years ago when I worked in the OEM motor components industry, some of the senior managers had Triumph 2000s and some did very high mileages approaching 100K in under 3 years. This problem with broken rear hubs was known even then ! That was in the 1970s ! ! We had a couple of 2000's become 3 wheelers which meant a change in policy...then the 2000's went to auction at 75K, to avoid the problem ! The original Churchill tools were more sympathetic to the hubs and stub axles when replacing bearings but as you can see back in the 1970s when these cars were less than 10 years old loosing wheels from split hubs or snapped stub axles was not unknown. The point still remains, how can any owner be sure that a reconditioned hub with new bearings is safe ? even the best practice used to split the hub and stub axle could lead to a cracked component and these parts cannot be reliably crack tested, so much is hidden within. There are at least 3 CV different driveshaft options and another 3 or 4 different new hub options which will merge happily with your choice of sliding spine original spec driveshaft or CV (check for compatibility between all first) to suit what you want to afford. Your own cars, your own choices. Mick Richards Edited November 5, 2023 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted November 5, 2023 Report Share Posted November 5, 2023 3 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said: Iani, Not sure what your comment means regarding "spoiling the CDD love in" (people are just recounting their experiences, if you have something different to add please state it clearly for the avoidance of doubt) or your comment regarding "SERIOUS UPGRADE FOR SERIOUS USERS" my ar5e ! What does that mean and who said it ? Given that these photos are from your GT6 "solid shaft" and many of us (me for example) don't know where you got your failed component from or the circumstances perhaps you can elucidate the circumstances and what was said by the supplier when the failed component was presented back to them. Mick Richards The “SERIOUS UPGRADE…” quote is from the CDD website Mick, you can see what happened to my car here: This car has only just returned from France, the shaft should be removed this week. The car is at a Triumph specialist who has a sheared CV shaft from a Stag awaiting CDD’s inspection too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted November 5, 2023 Report Share Posted November 5, 2023 Will be most interested on the outcome of this Iani. Please post the findings. Regards Harry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 5, 2023 Report Share Posted November 5, 2023 I recommend and fit these instead.https://www.racetorations.co.uk/product/fast-road-race-rear-hub-driveshaft-assembly-tr4a-6/ Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lee Posted November 5, 2023 Report Share Posted November 5, 2023 Are the Limora ones any good? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted November 6, 2023 Report Share Posted November 6, 2023 8 hours ago, lee said: Are the Limora ones any good? Our German friends on the TR-Freunde forum are not exactly positive although that was a couple of years ago. This is why I bought a set from CDD. I’m looking forward to the outcome of the inspection of Ian’s GT6 failure. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lee Posted November 6, 2023 Report Share Posted November 6, 2023 2 hours ago, Waldi said: Our German friends on the TR-Freunde forum are not exactly positive although that was a couple of years ago. This is why I bought a set from CDD. I’m looking forward to the outcome of the inspection of Ian’s GT6 failure. Waldi Ah. not sure why I ended up getting a set. I’m not a brutal driver so hopefully will be ok or at least better than std Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.