Casar66 Posted December 31, 2022 Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 ..and I guess it is the sump-gasket in the front/flatened area of the sump. Not much, some drops a week. Am I right that simply retightening the sump screws does nothing? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JochemsTR Posted December 31, 2022 Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 Be grateful its only few drops. In any other case, drop the sump. New gasket with some silikon sealant on both sides of the gasket. The 2 bolts in front and back should be glued in, tighten with a nut. Jochem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harlequin Posted December 31, 2022 Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 Some years ago I spent a day flattening the face of the tin sump mainly around the bolt holes, I then carefully fitted the gasket with sealent making sure all was tight and correct and now have an oil tight sump. BUT about ever 10k miles I get a bit of a drip which is my que to get underneath and re-tighten the bolts. I have used Locktight and new spring washers but every 10k I am back under the car! I think the main problem is the boot.........its got 'Triumph' written on it. George Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted December 31, 2022 Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 (edited) 2 hours ago, Casar66 said: ..and I guess it is the sump-gasket in the front/flatened area of the sump. Not much, some drops a week. Am I right that simply retightening the sump screws does nothing? No, it does do something, it buggers the sump ! An alloy sump normally sorts it (and gives other problems). You can try reinforcing the steel sump by using a gasket as a template and getting a 6mm plate spacer plate cut in steel drill the sump holes through it, and then fitting that with a gasket either side and with goo in between the sump and the block. Mick Richards Edited December 31, 2022 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted December 31, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 Quote think the main problem is the boot.........its got 'Triumph' written on it. Haha, you are right. To quote a rather popular band: " I know it is only rockn' roll but I like it." Happy new year to all of the TR-enthusiasts all around! Cas Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harlequin Posted December 31, 2022 Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 16 minutes ago, Casar66 said: Happy new year to all of the TR-enthusiasts all around! Cas Frohes neues Jahr George Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted December 31, 2022 Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 There are 2 bolts that have access directly to the inside of the sump, all the others are in the side and front and back, I will have to look to see exactly where they are, I have fitted copper washers on these to make a good seal, I will have a look to identify where exactly they are, cannot remember off hand. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted December 31, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2022 Would be very nice, John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted January 1, 2023 Report Share Posted January 1, 2023 Its a Triumph it leaks oil. If it does not, it is not a Triumph or if it is it has no oil in it!. Happy New Year to you all. Off to Brooklands now Regards Harry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted January 1, 2023 Report Share Posted January 1, 2023 The thru sump bolts are on the left side of the engine, front one is just under the timing cover, slightly to the left, but not the 2 in the middle, the rear is in the same place at the rear, easy to test, take out the bolt and a screw driver will go right up into the crankcase, all the others are blind. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted January 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2023 many thanks, John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted January 1 Author Report Share Posted January 1 Happy New Year! It took me exactly one year to finally get around to sealing the oil pan. I drained the oil yesterday. My plan for today is to simply unscrew the oil pan screws, remove the oil pan, remove the old seal residue, flatten the edge of the pan where necessary, put on a new seal with silicone sealant, screw the oil pan back on, done. Now there are three more questions: 1. what do I have to pay particular attention to? 2. what other work can I do if the oil pan is already down? 3. can I check the longitudinal play of the crankshaft using home remedies? I stumbled across the last question because I found an old note of mine: "check play of the crankshaft and thrust washers." Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted January 1 Report Share Posted January 1 Casar, Silicone sealant not necessary, and risks squeezing out globs that get into the oil pump/filter. You are quite correct in wanting to flatten the sump flange - so many DPOs screw the bolts in as hard as they can, in the hope that this will stop any leaks. I fact, it just crushes the gasket and 'bells' the bolt holes, to that the gasket is not compressed along its length. Sump bolts should be tightened to 16-18 lbs-ft (22-24 Newton/meters) when "hand tight" is about 12lbs-ft. So put your arm into it (NOT your shoulder!) if you don't have a torque wrench! John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 1 Report Share Posted January 1 What about using plate washers as Morris Minor has on its sump screws? The MM ones have a 1/4 hole so would need drilling out for TR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted January 1 Report Share Posted January 1 59 minutes ago, john.r.davies said: Casar, Silicone sealant not necessary, and risks squeezing out globs that get into the oil pump/filter. You are quite correct in wanting to flatten the sump flange - so many DPOs screw the bolts in as hard as they can, in the hope that this will stop any leaks. I fact, it just crushes the gasket and 'bells' the bolt holes, to that the gasket is not compressed along its length. Sump bolts should be tightened to 16-18 lbs-ft (22-24 Newton/meters) when "hand tight" is about 12lbs-ft. So put your arm into it (NOT your shoulder!) if you don't have a torque wrench! John Examples I was able to buy one of the no longer produced cork gaskets, locked not too tight I‘m very pleased Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted January 1 Author Report Share Posted January 1 So, the sump is gone. To my surprise the gasket was quite ok, just one part what shows traces of possible incontinence. The sump itself also shows no "bulged" areas. Just all flat more ore less. The sump´s inside looks very nice for more than 30 years and around 50.000mls. But now I know where the oil comes from: just below the thread of the drain plug there is a crack at the weld seam. My guess is that someone (most likely me) has tighten the drain plug too much. But what is to do know, is it weldable or perhaps glue? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted January 1 Report Share Posted January 1 Weld it if you can or try JB Weld epoxy which should fix it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 1 Report Share Posted January 1 Steam clean the sump, inside and out, especially the area around the crack. Dry it off with blown air and paper towelling inside, then warm the crack on the sump with a propane torch or gas welding gun, see if any oil is combusted from the crack or pushes out of the crack. If it still remains dry with no oil being pushed out I'd be tempted to MIG the crack. File the surface of the crack ends and then along the crack getting it to bright metal, then I'd try a plug type weld on each end of the crack and subject to a decent weld then fill in the area between the plug welds with more plug welds steadily filling in the crack until all is stitched together. JB Weld adhesive is pretty good and if you decide not to MG weld it, I'd carry out the above preparation prior to welding it and then cram the JB Weld into the crack (flexible putty knife) and makes sure you overlap the crack edge by at least a couple of mm all around it. Good luck. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted January 1 Author Report Share Posted January 1 thank you guys. The crack is very very thin. What do you think about brazing it with silver solder? because that I can do by myself. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 1 Report Share Posted January 1 23 minutes ago, Casar66 said: thank you guys. The crack is very very thin. What do you think about brazing it with silver solder? because that I can do by myself. That would do it, just need to get it really clean first. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted January 1 Author Report Share Posted January 1 yes, I will clean it properly, hope to get all the oil out of the crack. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mleadbeater Posted January 2 Report Share Posted January 2 I would braze or silver solder it, less risk of burning a bigger hole in the thin metal. Mike ps are you contemplating swapping the thrust bearings, good time to check float and maybe replace? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 2 Report Share Posted January 2 On 1/1/2024 at 10:27 AM, Casar66 said: Happy New Year! It took me exactly one year to finally get around to sealing the oil pan. I drained the oil yesterday. My plan for today is to simply unscrew the oil pan screws, remove the oil pan, remove the old seal residue, flatten the edge of the pan where necessary, put on a new seal with silicone sealant, screw the oil pan back on, done. Now there are three more questions: 1. what do I have to pay particular attention to? 2. what other work can I do if the oil pan is already down? 3. can I check the longitudinal play of the crankshaft using home remedies? I stumbled across the last question because I found an old note of mine: "check play of the crankshaft and thrust washers." Hi Cas, if you have a DTI gauge fit that to the front of the crank Push/lever the crank rearwards as far as it will go. Note the DFI reading. Pull/Lever the crank forward. That should be your float. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted January 2 Author Report Share Posted January 2 3 hours ago, RogerH said: Hi Cas, if you have a DTI gauge fit that to the front of the crank Push/lever the crank rearwards as far as it will go. Note the DFI reading. Pull/Lever the crank forward. That should be your float. Roger Possible without removing the radiator? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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