Casar66 Posted January 2 Author Report Share Posted January 2 will that work? https://www.amazon.de/STEINLE-Magnetstativ-Messstativ-Standard-Messbereich/dp/B01M0ACNST/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=pqOoo&content-id=amzn1.sym.5c5e380f-adae-4188-be75-d3ed6ab75549%3Aamzn1.symc.adba8a53-36db-43df-a081-77d28e1b71e6&pf_rd_p=5c5e380f-adae-4188-be75-d3ed6ab75549&pf_rd_r=H9PPMKBG24EXT0PD216E&pd_rd_wg=pjcwi&pd_rd_r=7f0a79be-9e36-4ddf-97d8-4c06ba66c15b&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted January 2 Author Report Share Posted January 2 4 hours ago, mleadbeater said: ps are you contemplating swapping the thrust bearings, good time to check float and maybe replace? Do you mean the thrust washers for the horizontal play of the crankshaft? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 2 Report Share Posted January 2 (edited) While in there undo and inspect the connecting rod (big end) bearings. Renew if looking brassy. Check as you can the main bearings too. The oil pump can be stripped and inspected for tolerance/wear as per the service manual. That is an early type cast iron bodied oil pump so the wear may be less compared to the later all aluminium type with the round bulb oil strainer pick up gauze. As viewed in this video. The two pumps are interchangeable as complete assemblies. Edited January 2 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted January 2 Author Report Share Posted January 2 2 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: While in there undo and inspect the connecting rod (big end) bearings. Renew if looking brassy. Check as you can the main bearings too. The oil pump can be stripped and inspected for tolerance/wear as per the service manual. That is an early type cast iron bodied oil pump so the wear may be less compared to the later all aluminium type with the round bulb oil strainer pick up gauze. I think I am too scared for that. Otherwise, the engine ran perfectly, just some oil drops on the floor. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 2 Report Share Posted January 2 20 minutes ago, Casar66 said: I think I am too scared for that. Otherwise, the engine ran perfectly, just some oil drops on the floor. While you have the sump off checking the engine bearings would be worthwhile for an engine you say has done 50 k. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted January 2 Author Report Share Posted January 2 (edited) Yes, you're certainly right. But I've never tried my hand at things like that before. Not that I wouldn't trust myself to do the work. But I just don't have the experience to judge anything. And I can't ask anyone with more experience to join me, who likes to lie down on the concrete floor and crawl under a car that's jacked up 30 cm. Edited January 2 by Casar66 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mleadbeater Posted January 2 Report Share Posted January 2 Yes, check the crankshaft thrust bearing halves, plenty info on how to do. If the oil pressure was fine before, the pump should be ok. Might as well look at the bearing shells of the mains and big ends as well. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted January 2 Author Report Share Posted January 2 (edited) Where do I get the info? Here in the forum? EDIT: found something at youtube. My conclusion: will not touch the bearings. Under the current circumstances with no lift, no experience it is better for my mental health. I will measure the horizontal play of the crankshaft. If I need thrust washers I will ask an expert I know. Then he can have a look at bearings as well. Edited January 3 by Casar66 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mleadbeater Posted January 3 Report Share Posted January 3 just Google “Tr6 crankshaft end float”, you’ll get loads of info sources. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mleadbeater Posted January 3 Report Share Posted January 3 maybe look at this link https://www.customthrustwashers.com/endfloat_2_007.htm good description of how to. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted January 3 Author Report Share Posted January 3 The measuring will be no problem, I guess. Hope that the result is a good one. My current problem seems to be a silly one: the sump is tight again, nothing is dripping out of the clearly identified crack (I'm testing it with soapy water instead of oil). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted January 4 Author Report Share Posted January 4 another question: let's suppose the measuring says too much play and I need new thrust washers. To change them the manual says: Quote 9. Remove the two bolts securing the rear main bearing cap to the crankcase, and withdraw the cap and lower shell. An expert hier ein Germany says that you never use a shell again after withdrawing it, the manual not. So what is right? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mleadbeater Posted January 4 Report Share Posted January 4 Does your expert give any reason why? Personally, I don’t see any problem of replacing the shell back to the place it came from. Maybe if stretch bolts were used, they are only used once, but usually they are used on newer engines, more often for cylinder head bolts. If you examine the threads of the bolts removed, looking for any deformation due to stretching, you may want to fit new ones. Again, try a Google search on this topic, “ big end bolt replacement “ for example. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted January 4 Author Report Share Posted January 4 I do not want to change the bolts, I mean just the lower shell half. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 4 Report Share Posted January 4 "Maybe if stretch bolts were used, they are only used once, " Sometimes correct but it depends on the bolt used. If they are ARP they likely will be torqued 4 or 5 times before they even get in the stretch range which retains the torque used. ! Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 4 Report Share Posted January 4 7 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said: "Maybe if stretch bolts were used, they are only used once, " Sometimes correct but it depends on the bolt used. If they are ARP they likely will be torqued 4 or 5 times before they even get in the stretch range which retains the torque used. ! Mick Richards Unless they have been over torqued and gone past their stretch allowance….then they are bin jobs. Use a stretch measurement gauge if in doubt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
charlie74 Posted January 5 Report Share Posted January 5 (edited) 12 hours ago, Casar66 said: I do not want to change the bolts, I mean just the lower shell half. I think the bolts should be fine and if your bearings aren’t showing obvious wear and your oil pressure was good they can probably be reused. You could plasti-gauge it to verify clearance if you like but you’re probably going to be fine.. after all, if you hadn’t had an oil leak you wouldn’t be worrying about this to begin with…! (No disrespect intended! I know what it’s like getting into a potential tin of worms; it’s hard to know when to stop…!) Edited January 5 by charlie74 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted January 5 Author Report Share Posted January 5 Yes, you - or better - the worms got me. Hopefully I will be able to do the float measuring next week and everything is fine as it should be. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JochemsTR Posted January 7 Report Share Posted January 7 ARP bolts can be recognized. But very likely, the bolts will be original which is totally fine. ARP bolts are mostly used at the head. if the main bearing cap sits fit, you can re-install it with bearing in place again. No need for further measurements. Removing all caps to inspect the bearings (one by one) is a normal procedure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted January 7 Author Report Share Posted January 7 I do not worry about the bolts, thanks. Which of the crankshaft bearings is the most heavily loaded, in case I get up the nerve to open one? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JochemsTR Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 You can only remove 2nd, 3rd and 4th cap. In this case, start with the easiest one. If that goes well and the bearing looks good, you may not need to do the others. I personally would however. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
charlie74 Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 If you do take more than one off, do them one at a time and make sure they go back on in the same orientation. Do NOT mix them up…! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted January 9 Author Report Share Posted January 9 Will measure next week and will check at least one bearing. But only when it becomes warmer, today we had -10 degree in the barn. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted January 24 Author Report Share Posted January 24 The sump is tight, the old seal is gone, the surfaces are clean. So I'm ready to put the sump back in place. But: there is the crank end float play to measure. Due a (my) very unintelligent setup is is nearly impossible for me to move the crankshaft with a iron or big screwdriver from above. So I tried it from below. I have not that much room and a more or less uncomfortable working situation under the car. But I can't measure any play!? So I am wondering if it is possible/right to move the crankshaft with a big screwdriver at these places (red arrows in the drawing)? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted January 24 Author Report Share Posted January 24 (edited) I did four measurements, all were around 4 thou (2 x 0,10, 1 x 0,11mm, 1 x 0,12mm). I think this is good? Edited January 25 by Casar66 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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