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TR6 Tips and Tricks


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At the end of the day our TR's are just Cars...now Very Old cars (unless you have recently rebuilt yours on a brand new chassis) whatever works for you is all you need to know! keeping these old cars running is what it's all about, in my case over 50 years and counting. It rides nicely and works as it should most of the time! Here endeth the lesson!

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My front sealing block is the upgraded steel but this winter I modified my real main seal housing to studs using helicoils.  Hopefully that addresses the problem with the soft material.  It also serves to help locate the pan which isn’t easy when the engine is in the car…
 

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7 minutes ago, charlie74 said:

My front sealing block is the upgraded steel but this winter I modified my real main seal housing to studs using helicoils.  Hopefully that addresses the problem with the soft material.  It also serves to help locate the pan which isn’t easy when the engine is in the car…
 

E31893A4-F975-49CC-9CBC-0BEB03902B99.thumb.jpeg.333af9f7f016ca7cccf4ae71d5e3d3fa.jpeg

Now that is a top tip !

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10 hours ago, CP26309 said:

At the end of the day our TR's are just Cars...now Very Old cars (unless you have recently rebuilt yours on a brand new chassis) whatever works for you is all you need to know! keeping these old cars running is what it's all about, in my case over 50 years and counting. It rides nicely and works as it should most of the time! Here endeth the lesson!

+1. And most owners now are older than the cars.

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As a new owner this year, I’d love some guidance on tips & tricks for winter storage for our beloved cars? Having previously had Caterham from new for 20 + years, we did things like cleaning, waxing, polish, disconnect battery & put on conditioner as our main activity once roads start getting salted. 

I’m curious what besides the above to consider? 

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1 hour ago, Steve-B said:

As a new owner this year, I’d love some guidance on tips & tricks for winter storage for our beloved cars? Having previously had Caterham from new for 20 + years, we did things like cleaning, waxing, polish, disconnect battery & put on conditioner as our main activity once roads start getting salted. 

I’m curious what besides the above to consider? 

Get an airchamber. https://airflow-uk.com/airchambers/

Stuart.

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31 minutes ago, stuart said:

Get an airchamber. https://airflow-uk.com/airchambers/

Stuart.

Or a Carcoon !

https://www.carcoon.com/
 

If you decide the car will be used throughout winter ( hmmm salty days ?) then maybe the Airchamber is easier. I used my Carcoon with the top tied to a single width garage rafters, and it allowed winter use for a 10 minute dismantle and the same to put back in storage.

Mick Richards

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Our garage(albeit unseated) is quite dry and we’ve previously left the hood of our Caterham up with the rear window slightly unzipped.


Mick & Stuart I’m curious, Are guys suggesting that’s not as good an idea, or do your garages have issues which is why you’ve got them? 

Edited by Steve-B
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My garage is a single brick uninsulated build mid 30s single car width garage ( now double car length and with a separate brick workshop on the back) separate from the house. It has a corrugated cement uninsulated roof and an galvanised uninsulated up and over door. There is no sealing around the doors and so suitably drafty for ventilation. With a car inside that hasn’t been run for weeks ( so it’s the same temp as the garage) in winter months in late evening (11 pm) all looks well on top… but if you drop to your knees and look under you’ll see hundreds of condensation water droplets on the underfloor section. It’s just the drop in ambient temp breaching the dew point limit.

Not so hard as you think, current temp 12 deg outside… dew point starts at 7 deg. That’s right just 5 deg before moisture beads upon your pride and joy. Autumn and Spring periods are worst when you can get large daily swings.

Same car, same circumstances but INSIDE a Carcoon with fans running, no water droplets anywhere. If it’s good enough for F1 teams I’ll use it.

Mick Richards

 

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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I have a cair o port tent . It was the reason that persuaded me to get my car . My neighbour had a Panther Lima (remember them ??) Stored in a garage over winter where we live and when it came out in the spring it was covered in furry green mould . Awful state . The cair o port stops all that . Uses three computer fans . Easy to get the car in and out of . 

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18 hours ago, Steve-B said:

Our garage(albeit unseated) is quite dry and we’ve previously left the hood of our Caterham up with the rear window slightly unzipped.


Mick & Stuart I’m curious, Are guys suggesting that’s not as good an idea, or do your garages have issues which is why you’ve got them? 

Garage at home is similar to Micks so not very good for storing a car in plus I managed to pick up an Airchamber at a good price quite a few years ago.

Stuart.

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Interesting observations. I have a wooden garage. By no means air tight, but have only experienced condensation on metal parts once. And that is despite spending the winters sorting out various under car issues. 
tim

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Ventilation of garages and use of carcoons has been discussed at length in earlier threads.  Anyone interested should do a forum search - it has all been said before. 

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I absolutely agree with Mickey!    A week sealed house is a good idea, but not a well sealed Garage!  The windshield whistle through it!

Then any warm,moisture-laden air is whisked away, so that it can't condense on the cold metal of the car.    My garage has barn type does, no sealing, and yes, it cold to work in, so wrap up warm guys!   But condensation and rust are unknown, and live next to the wettest part of the UK!

John

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4 hours ago, Tim D. said:

Interesting observations. I have a wooden garage. By no means air tight, but have only experienced condensation on metal parts once. And that is despite spending the winters sorting out various under car issues. 
tim

I've never had condensation occur on  a garaged vehicle. For water vapour in the air to condense it has to contact a surface colder than the ambient air's dew point and that doesn't happen with freely vented  car garages in Australia.

I have had condensation occur in garaged motor cycle's petrol tanks , where warm, high humidity air is trapped in the tanks and condenses out on cold nights, then the  gets trapped under the petrol.  Over months this can result in a considerable layer of water in the  bottom of the tank and can rust the tank out.

But, most of all, I'm glad we don't salt our roads.

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  • 1 month later...

Re: Condensation & Ventilation...I have a single brick built garage at the bottom of my garden that has a concrete floor, a flat wooden roof, and a steel up an over garage door. I've always covered my car with the top down (I never use it) with a soft cloth car cover, after it has cooled down. Sometimes from November onwards I found all metal objects around the garage were covered in moisture droplets! And during extended winter storage mold grew on the leather steering wheel and the vinyl seat back tops!!! This all stopped when I added a Dehumidifier which I leave running continuously winter and summer. I was amazed how quickly the internal catch bucket filled up! But adding a hose that goes out through a hole in the wall saved me the chore of emptying it, while it waters the garden at the same time!  

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My TR6 lives in an airchamber tent in a fairly damp barn. When it came out in Spring it was like it had just gone in, even the disks were still shiny clean steel. My TVR lives in a brick built garage with a dehumidifier and that works equally well but obviously at around 300 Watts it costs a few quid to run it all winter. I don’t use it in summer unless the weather is really dire or the car has been garaged while wet. One bit of advice on the dehumidifier is to shut it down for 2 hours per day to get the frost off the coils or it slowly gets less effective. I use a timer socket for this purpose.

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Yeah the power usage is really expensive for the Carcoon fans which are about 9" dia computer type 

IMG_2667.thumb.JPG.0768a093a00b8c6e4935de2ff2a1e73c.JPG

Even worse there's 2 of them ! 

I think I worked it out it cost £15 last year.

Mick Richards

 

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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43 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

Yeah the power usage is really expensive for the Carcoon fans which are about 9" dia computer type 

IMG_2667.thumb.JPG.0768a093a00b8c6e4935de2ff2a1e73c.JPG

Even worse there's 2 of them ! 

I think I worked it out it cost £15 last year.

Mick Richards

 

Yes, a bit of rough arithmetic suggests that with current power prices running a dehumidifier for 6 months 24x7 is almost the cost of buying a carcoon so now they are now probably a better option despite the initial outlay.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/26/2022 at 12:14 PM, stuart said:

Garage at home is similar to Micks so not very good for storing a car in plus I managed to pick up an Airchamber at a good price quite a few years ago.

Stuart.

I'm a bit slow to the party on this topic Stuart, but yep - if an Airchamber was good enough for Michael Jackson its good enough for a TR.......:)

Mine was sold along with DPF a 'few years ago' and could do with another now for VUX :rolleyes: and a few smaller ones for my motorbikes. 

Cheers, Andrew

1673497190_AirChamber.thumb.jpg.67435cb86023aee6d222d3a8eeaa2f01.jpg

 

Edited by Andrew Smith
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2 hours ago, john.r.davies said:

That pic makes me think.  A frame of metal - or plastic -  tubing, covered with cling film? Add a computer fan to change the air - £50?

John

Plus carbon and foam filters for the fan and a zip 12" wide into the wall structure at 4 foot high at one end opposite the fan to allow the pumped air to bleed out at a rate decided by yourself (don't fully unzip)when the chamber is used to dry out a wet car put inside. Zip it closed just for storage. The cling film won't be robust enough, talk to your local packaging firm for stabilised plastic sheet that'll last 5 or 6 years.

Mick Richards

  

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