TR6 Tips and Tricks

[Jonny TR6]

There's many a helpful tip I've picked up from the members on here, so thought about creating a dedicated thread for random tips on looking after your TR6, whether it be best place to jack the car up, do's and don'ts of maintenance, driving style etc. Ideally it shouldn't be a thread for endless discussions on oil etc. but you get the gist.

I'll kick off with installing an inline shut off valve directly beneath the fuel tank. Invaluable if you're changing filters, hoses etc. and follow it up with a big thumbs up for the fuel gauge calibration sticky.

Edited September 8, 2022 by Jonny TR6

[Jonny TR6]

When fitting the black trim at the bottom of the grille, align it at the back first, then slowly slide it forward so that the leading edge just comes over the 3 clips on the grille opening.

Then you can push it back to engage on the clips and screw everything in place.

Trying to install it by pushing the trim back onto the clips from the front will result in scratches on the paint and you’ll need to spend half day flatting, painting, polishing etc.

Go on - ask me how I know !

Edited September 11, 2022 by Jonny TR6

[charlie74]

For those with carburetors: install a fuel shut-off valve upstream of the fuel filter.  It makes servicing the filter, pump, and carbs so much easier as well as cleaner.  It’s also helpful when storing for a long period…

[Mike C]

A valve on the tank /pump  suction line is also a good idea for PI systems for filter changing, pump maintenance and generally isolating the system for piping  operations  below   the tank fuel level.

I used a stainless steel/PTFE  trim ball valve.

[CP26309]

I never jack up just one corner these days...I jack up both sides together to save straining and stressing a 53 year old frame. Also never sit with your foot on the clutch for longer than necessary, or bang it through the gears, or your standard white metal Thrust Washers will get too worn or crushed and drop out! (Been there done that!) Add an extra solderless nipple after the pinch screw on the bonnet cable release, or better still add an additional emergency cable!  Add an on/off switch on your ignition cable under the dash as an anti theft foil! 

[Jonny TR6]

All good stuff and keep them coming !

Should you wish to inspect your gauge wiring without removing the dash, pop out the ashtray in the crash pad and you’ll be able to have a limited view of what’s going on  in there.

Ideal if you want to check if your oil pressure gauge connection is weeping as well.

[ntc]

2 hours ago, CP26309 said:

I never jack up just one corner these days...I jack up both sides together to save straining and stressing a 53 year old frame. Also never sit with your foot on the clutch for longer than necessary, or bang it through the gears, or your standard white metal Thrust Washers will get too worn or crushed and drop out! (Been there done that!) Add an extra solderless nipple after the pinch screw on the bonnet cable release, or better still add an additional emergency cable!  Add an on/off switch on your ignition cable under the dash as an anti theft foil! 

If you can’t jack up at one corner and open the doors you have a problem!

[Andy Moltu]

12 hours ago, CP26309 said:

I never jack up just one corner these days...I jack up both sides together to save straining and stressing a 53 year old frame. 

The loading from jacking up a wheel is way less than that of road bumps. If you are concerned your chassis isn't able withstand that it may well be in need of repair.

[Mk2 Chopper]

17 hours ago, Jonny TR6 said:

Ideal if you want to check if your oil pressure gauge connection is weeping as well.

Just removed my oil gauge to fit a missing leather washer, (no leak before but I thought I should). Easiest way, as you point out was to go in through the ashtray, so that's a great tip. 

Gareth

[Jonny TR6]

Install a fuel pump switch on the outside of the fuel tank cover panel. You can then switch the pump on and off without having to remove the panel to access the wiring.

[Nigel Triumph]

18 minutes ago, Jonny TR6 said:

Install a fuel pump switch on the outside of the fuel tank cover panel. You can then switch the pump on and off without having to remove the panel to access the wiring.

If the fuel pump switch is hidden from view, it's also a security device.

Nigel

[PodOne]

21 minutes ago, Jonny TR6 said:

Install a fuel pump switch on the outside of the fuel tank cover panel. You can then switch the pump on and off without having to remove the panel to access the wiring.

Hi John

Why what's the reasoning?

Fuel pump is already controlled by ignition switch (maybe via a relay) which you would have to switch on to then deliver 12v to another switch in the boot. Why not simply have any connections minus the switch right side of the cover panel?

Andy

Edited September 14, 2022 by PodOne

[Jonny TR6]

5 minutes ago, PodOne said:

Hi John

Why what's the reasoning?

Fuel pump is already controlled by ignition switch (maybe via a relay) which you would have to switch on to then deliver 12v to another switch in the boot. Why not simply have any connections minus the switch right side of the cover panel?

Andy

Useful when cranking over the engine to get oil pressure after an oil change and to ensure you’re not flooding the bores with fuel.

And handy as a security feature as Nigel says 

[PodOne]

6 minutes ago, Jonny TR6 said:

Useful when cranking over the engine to get oil pressure after an oil change and to ensure you’re not flooding the bores with fuel.

And handy as a security feature as Nigel says 

Fair play Baldric!

I think I might as well do the same thing with a cunningly hidden switchy thingy mi bob!

[CK's TR6]

If you have a spin on oil filter, fill the new one before installing it. 

[CP26309]

On 9/12/2022 at 10:46 PM, ntc said:

If you can’t jack up at one corner and open the doors you have a problem!

Me doors open just fine thanks! 

[Jonny TR6]

When fitting your fuel tank fit the filler cap and large rubber seal before tightening up the fuel tank mounting nuts. That way you will have your filler centred in the aperture.

[rwest]

On 9/14/2022 at 10:01 PM, Jonny TR6 said:

Install a fuel pump switch on the outside of the fuel tank cover panel. You can then switch the pump on and off without having to remove the panel to access the wiring.

I just pop the top of the mercury inertia switch under the bonnet.

[Jonny TR6]

If you’ve got the rocker cover off, undo and clean the mushroom head Philips screw at the rear of the rocker shaft and add a couple of very small (pinhead) dabs of Loctite green thread sealer to the flat countersunk part of the screw.. Clean the mating surface on the shaft as well, but be careful not to get anything in the screw hole as it could block the rocker arm lube holes.

Tighten well and the Loctite will hold the screw in place. They have been known to come out and cause all sorts of damage to the engine.

You shouldn’t need to put the Loctite on the threads.

[Jonny TR6]

Leaky sump gasket ? It may not be the gasket itself that’s leaking, but some of the bolts.

After you’ve removed the sump (draining the oil first of course) you’ll see an alloy casting at the front and rear. These castings take slightly longer bolts than the rest, as the bolts protrude into the crankcase, rather than having an enclosed end.

With the open end, oil can wick down the bolt threads and cause weeping at the bolt heads.

Some PTFE tape on the threads and a fibre washer, prior to the spring washer should go a long way to curing your sump leaks.

Hylomar both sides of the gasket also does no harm.

Make sure you put the bolts back correctly - the ones into the alloy casting should be hand tight, the others 20lbs/ft.

[ntc]

Don’t know how long your experience is with Tr’s but most of the above points are incorrect.

[Paulfc]

26 minutes ago, ntc said:

Don’t know how long your experience is with Tr’s but most of the above points are incorrect.

Please expand!

[Jonny TR6]

34 minutes ago, ntc said:

Don’t know how long your experience is with Tr’s but most of the above points are incorrect.

Yes please expand Neil - you have infinitely more experience than me, but rather than be helpful and give us newbies the benefit of your experience, you seem content to snipe and be unhelpful.

Not sure of your motivation, but there’s plenty of people on here who just want to learn and enjoy working on their cars.

Rant over for now…

[ntc]

52 minutes ago, Jonny TR6 said:

Yes please expand Neil - you have infinitely more experience than me, but rather than be helpful and give us newbies the benefit of your experience, you seem content to snipe and be unhelpful.

Not sure of your motivation, but there’s plenty of people on here who just want to learn and enjoy working on their cars.

Rant over for now…

I am not content more concerned, the material’s you quote are not correct and will cause more problems that is why most have changed to the metal bridge because of the quotation you made in your post , a search will tell you all need to know that many people have learned the hard way in the past.

[Jonny TR6]

Thanks Nigel - I’ve read up on the bridge issue, which was something I was not aware of.

Having just installed my sump with the method I described earlier I have cured the leaks (so far so good) and will keep a watching eye on it. To my mind not over tightening the longer bolts in the softer metal is key to stopping the leaks, but also ensuring they’re tight enough.

There’s also the helicoil option should the threads get stripped and a simple solution at very little cost.