Z320 Posted November 2, 2023 Report Share Posted November 2, 2023 Did you consider to make a winze / press tool to get the tube flat with a nicer shape? I made one 20 year ago for making a motor cycle luggage rack, but it was made from standard steel and worn out very fast. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 2, 2023 Report Share Posted November 2, 2023 (edited) Short browse with Google I found this DIY tool for the arbor press. Look pretty much like the one I made, sadly worn and scraped... It helps to take thin walled tubes and to make the end hot or glowing. This is too much for in the shed, but you could start a production with it Edited November 2, 2023 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 3, 2023 Report Share Posted November 3, 2023 (edited) 11 hours ago, Z320 said: Short browse with Google I found this DIY tool for the arbor press. Look pretty much like the one I made, sadly worn and scraped... It helps to take thin walled tubes and to make the end hot or glowing. This is too much for in the shed, but you could start a production with it Thank you Marco for that info. Yes we discussed tools for this and concluded the time and cost involved in creating press tools was disproportionate to the requirement of outcome. If we thought this was a commercially viable project then yes that would be the way to go. We used a simple V block and knife raise folder in the vice to start the folds and finished with a piece of leaf spring that had the correct edge radius. Maybe Harrington in Vietnam will see this and start to produce them to go with their stainless steel bumpers for the TR3A. That said at £12.00 each retail for chromed ones I think the “bright’n’shiny” company may endure Edited November 3, 2023 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 7, 2023 Report Share Posted November 7, 2023 (edited) Moving on…. Stainless steel bits for door trim and body to chassis of brother’s TR2 Had to make a machining jig for the door pull escutcheons That came in handy for holding them when polishing Found the inaccuracies of the rotary table. You get what you pay for, and my one was very cheap. Also suffered the imperial to metric swap with cutters. Needed 7/16” for the slot so hobbled it out to 10 mm with a cobalt cutter and then gingerly teased it to 7/16 with hss. Edited November 7, 2023 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 7, 2023 Report Share Posted November 7, 2023 My latest machining operation was to make two sleeves 5mm ID by 6mm OD to fit to this motorcycle drive chain link so I could use it to connect a modified clutch cable to a plastic bell crank on our Fiat Seicento. The original design was poor, & regularly broke. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 7, 2023 Report Share Posted November 7, 2023 Creative and ingenious Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 8, 2023 Report Share Posted November 8, 2023 (edited) A bit more detail, the original Fiat clutch cable has a hooked end which passes through a nylon bellcrank, & retained by a washer & split pin. The usual failure point is the 90°bend in the hook. Ricambo, an outfit who deals with spare parts for all Italian cars produce this "improved" version photo shows it placed on the modified chain link The width of the chain link matched the nylon bellcrank quite well, but I added some washers to the cable side to centralise the cable end. The new cable was supplied with an M6 screw & nyloc nut, I guess you were supposed to simply bolt the end alongside the bellcrank. I did not like that idea as it would put quite a twisting force on both the bellcrank & the cable, hence the modification the make the pull "inline" photo with everything attached. Hope it's awhile before I need to do it again. Bob Edited November 8, 2023 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 8, 2023 Report Share Posted November 8, 2023 Last week minding blowing electronics making OD Logic boxes. This week tin bashing repairing TR4 boot lid with serious rust issues. This morning on the dining table I took a Panasonic(Leica) TZ20 camera apart to clean the image detector. Having done that I then fitted a new keypad to my computer. Maybe all the letters wiill be there Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted November 8, 2023 Report Share Posted November 8, 2023 Well, it’s a bit bigger than a shed as it’s a double garage. After following the very useful exchanges on forum about low lift hydraulic ramps, in July I finally pulled the trigger. It had always been my intention to sink it into the garage floor and the project is well advanced after a few complications related to safety. Holding a concrete party later on in the week. james Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted November 8, 2023 Report Share Posted November 8, 2023 Not a happy shed tonight Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 8, 2023 Report Share Posted November 8, 2023 Oh dear, hope it has not caused too much damage Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Francois HENOTTR3B Posted November 11, 2023 Report Share Posted November 11, 2023 On 11/8/2023 at 9:48 PM, EliTR6 said: Not a happy shed tonight Désolé de voir ça ! Bon courage et vivement la décrue... :-( Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dic Doretti Posted November 23, 2023 Report Share Posted November 23, 2023 I have just spent some time in the shed constructing an overdrive logic circuit. I used Bob Le Brocq's instructions from this forum and the cost was minimal but what a difference. I used a 3 position flick switch which I had lying around and a resistor off ebay, 10 for just over £3.00. Now I flick the switch and overdrive is smoothly selected unlike the harsh push pull switch on the TR2 and it changes out of overdrive permanently when the gear lever passes through neutral so no worries about whether overdrive is selected or the switch can be flicked upwards out of overdrive. A great improvement, thanks Bob. I have 9 resistors left over which I am happy to send to anyone contemplating the improvement. Cheers Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 24, 2023 Report Share Posted November 24, 2023 17 hours ago, Dic Doretti said: I have just spent some time in the shed constructing an overdrive logic circuit. I used Bob Le Brocq's instructions from this forum and the cost was minimal but what a difference. I used a 3 position flick switch which I had lying around and a resistor off ebay, 10 for just over £3.00. Now I flick the switch and overdrive is smoothly selected unlike the harsh push pull switch on the TR2 and it changes out of overdrive permanently when the gear lever passes through neutral so no worries about whether overdrive is selected or the switch can be flicked upwards out of overdrive. A great improvement, thanks Bob. I have 9 resistors left over which I am happy to send to anyone contemplating the improvement. Cheers Richard I like the cord wrapped steering wheel. Did you do it yourself? How is the cord secured. How do you finish the ends of the card? Historically they RAC scrutineers would have a fit with both legs up on seeing this as the risk of it unravelling jeopardises steering control. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dic Doretti Posted November 24, 2023 Report Share Posted November 24, 2023 Its sash cord from the local hardware store and I find it helps with low speed manoeuvring, the standard wheel being a bit slippery and the steering heavy. I'm sure I've seen this on various vintage racing cars. There is a knot hidden on the back of the wheel. Cheers Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted November 24, 2023 Report Share Posted November 24, 2023 Traditionally, timber lashings were done with WET rope, thatvwould tighten as it dried, making knots more secure. Is that what you did, Richard? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dic Doretti Posted November 24, 2023 Report Share Posted November 24, 2023 Back to the drawing board, thanks John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted November 24, 2023 Report Share Posted November 24, 2023 Hum..... you sure you got that right John? james Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 25, 2023 Report Share Posted November 25, 2023 Sorry me, I also have doubts Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted November 25, 2023 Report Share Posted November 25, 2023 (edited) Having in the past used natural fibre ropes in a wet environment, yes they do shrink when they dry so it makes perfect sense to me to wrap the wheel when the cord is wet. Rgds Ian Edited November 25, 2023 by Ian Vincent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted November 25, 2023 Report Share Posted November 25, 2023 1 hour ago, Ian Vincent said: Having in the past used natural fibre ropes in a wet environment, yes they do shrink when they dry so it makes perfect sense to me to wrap the wheel when the cord is dry. Rgds Ian EH? Please explain, Ian? You agree that wet binding will shrink on drying, but then recommend dry wrapping! Do you expect really sweaty hands? John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted November 25, 2023 Report Share Posted November 25, 2023 The vintage car crowd use braided plaited cord either hemp, flax or nowadays nylon, usually about 3mm diameter. It is applied dry. The wheel can be first wrapped with a sticky cloth tape - like the old stuff used to wrap wiring harnesses, which has a tacky surface. This helps keep the binding in place. "Sniper tape" is a modern equivalent. Some people use 'coxscombing' where each turn is secured by a half knot: http://www.frayedknotarts.com/tutorials/coxcombing/simple.html The ends are secured by threading them back under the binding like whipping. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted November 25, 2023 Report Share Posted November 25, 2023 46 minutes ago, john.r.davies said: EH? Please explain, Ian? You agree that wet binding will shrink on drying, but then recommend dry wrapping! Do you expect really sweaty hands? John My mistake John, I meant to type wet. Doh. It’s an age thing. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 25, 2023 Report Share Posted November 25, 2023 (edited) Hi, last weekend my mate Dieter borrowed me his shrinker / strecher, I made negatives from cardboard from the car floor, during the week the positives, the right and left flange, today first fitting and drilling 8 of the 10 holes. Yes, so far I'm pleased with the result Ciao, Marco Edited November 25, 2023 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted November 25, 2023 Report Share Posted November 25, 2023 Nice work Marco. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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