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In the shed this weekend.


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Did you consider to make a winze / press tool to get the tube flat with a nicer shape?

I made one 20 year ago for making a motor cycle luggage rack, but it was made from standard steel and worn out very fast.

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Short browse with Google I found this DIY tool for the arbor press.

Look pretty much like the one I made, sadly worn and scraped...

It helps to take thin walled tubes and to make the end hot or glowing.

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This is too much for in the shed, but you could start a production with it :)

 

 

Edited by Z320
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11 hours ago, Z320 said:

Short browse with Google I found this DIY tool for the arbor press.

Look pretty much like the one I made, sadly worn and scraped...

It helps to take thin walled tubes and to make the end hot or glowing.

ADCreHea4yMwgwRHTwfNEaS7QehvN-NeoUPsyY_o

This is too much for in the shed, but you could start a production with it :)

 

 

Thank you Marco for that info.

Yes we discussed tools for this and concluded the time and cost involved in creating press tools was disproportionate to the requirement of outcome.    If we thought this was a commercially viable project then yes that would be the way to go.   We used a simple V block and knife raise folder in the vice to start the folds and finished with a piece of leaf spring that had the correct edge radius.  Maybe Harrington in Vietnam will see this and start to produce them to go with their stainless steel bumpers for the TR3A.  That said at £12.00 each retail for chromed ones I think the “bright’n’shiny” company may endure

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Moving on….

Stainless steel bits for door trim and body to chassis of brother’s TR2  

Had to make a machining jig for the door pull escutcheons    That came in handy for holding them when polishing   
Found the inaccuracies of the rotary table.   You get what you pay for, and my one was very cheap.   Also suffered the imperial to metric swap with cutters.   Needed 7/16” for the slot so hobbled it out to 10 mm with a cobalt cutter and then gingerly teased it to 7/16 with hss.

 

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Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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My latest machining operation was to make two sleeves 5mm ID by 6mm OD to fit to this motorcycle drive chain link so I could use it to connect a modified clutch cable to a plastic bell crank on our Fiat Seicento. The original design was poor, & regularly broke.

 

8da6c4e9-da14-4c0b-8465-97bb52ace1b0.thumb.jpg.133caddf5e94909eddf4c9acc11d6672.jpg

Bob

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A bit more detail, the original Fiat clutch cable has a hooked end which passes through a nylon bellcrank, & retained by a washer & split pin.

The usual failure point is the 90°bend in the hook.    Ricambo, an outfit who deals with spare parts for all Italian cars produce this "improved" version

            7df4a345-0911-401a-9719-60da475e6f72.jpg.38fc80c0a0d1cd4859fa01e83a2084e5.jpg                               bd5152e4-acb9-4901-a6cf-44e7de2af89a.thumb.jpg.cfea96220485de4c423045f04cbf3890.jpg  photo shows it placed on the modified chain link

The width of the chain link matched the nylon bellcrank quite well, but I added some washers to the cable side to centralise the cable end.

The new cable was supplied with an M6 screw & nyloc nut, I guess you were supposed to simply bolt the end alongside the bellcrank. I did not like that idea as it would put quite a twisting force on both the bellcrank & the cable, hence the modification the make the pull "inline"

e88018dd-199b-44fb-adf0-e381850f8c37.thumb.jpg.59c4cdf778fca749c4b3ba3bdf6584e7.jpg  photo with everything attached.  Hope it's awhile before I need to do it again.

Bob

Edited by Lebro
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Last week minding blowing electronics making OD Logic boxes.

This week tin bashing  repairing TR4 boot lid with serious rust issues.

This morning on the dining table I took a Panasonic(Leica) TZ20 camera apart to clean the image detector.

Having done that I then  fitted a new keypad to my computer.   Maybe all the letters wiill be there

 

Roger

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Well, it’s a bit bigger than a shed as it’s a double garage.

After following the very useful exchanges on forum about low lift hydraulic ramps, in July I finally pulled the trigger. It had always been my intention to sink it into the garage floor and the project is well advanced after a few complications related to safety. Holding a concrete party later on in the week. 

jamesIMG_2756.thumb.jpeg.31f91e1eb295b72ceb96b177b1dcb00d.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have just spent some time in the shed constructing an overdrive logic circuit. I used Bob Le Brocq's instructions from this forum and the cost was minimal but what a difference. I used a 3 position flick switch which I had lying around and a resistor off ebay, 10 for just over £3.00. Now I flick the switch and overdrive is smoothly selected unlike the harsh push pull switch on the TR2 and it changes out of overdrive permanently when the gear lever passes through neutral so no worries about whether overdrive is selected or the switch can be flicked upwards out of overdrive. A great improvement, thanks Bob. 

I have 9 resistors left over which I am happy to send to anyone contemplating the improvement.

Cheers Richard

DSCN3636.JPG

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17 hours ago, Dic Doretti said:

I have just spent some time in the shed constructing an overdrive logic circuit. I used Bob Le Brocq's instructions from this forum and the cost was minimal but what a difference. I used a 3 position flick switch which I had lying around and a resistor off ebay, 10 for just over £3.00. Now I flick the switch and overdrive is smoothly selected unlike the harsh push pull switch on the TR2 and it changes out of overdrive permanently when the gear lever passes through neutral so no worries about whether overdrive is selected or the switch can be flicked upwards out of overdrive. A great improvement, thanks Bob. 

I have 9 resistors left over which I am happy to send to anyone contemplating the improvement.

Cheers Richard

DSCN3636.JPG

I like the cord wrapped steering wheel.   Did you do it yourself?  How is the cord secured.   How do you finish the ends of the card?

Historically they RAC scrutineers would have a fit with both legs up on seeing this as the risk of it unravelling jeopardises steering control.

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Its sash cord from the local hardware store and I find it helps with low speed manoeuvring, the standard wheel being a bit slippery and the steering heavy. I'm sure I've seen this on various vintage racing cars. There is a knot hidden on the back of the wheel.

Cheers Richard

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Having in the past used natural fibre ropes in a wet environment, yes they do shrink when they dry so it makes perfect sense to me to wrap the wheel when the cord is wet.

Rgds Ian

Edited by Ian Vincent
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1 hour ago, Ian Vincent said:

Having in the past used natural fibre ropes in a wet environment, yes they do shrink when they dry so it makes perfect sense to me to wrap the wheel when the cord is dry. 

Rgds Ian

EH?   Please explain, Ian?    You agree that wet binding will shrink on drying, but then recommend dry  wrapping!   Do you expect really sweaty hands?

John

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The vintage car crowd use braided plaited cord either hemp, flax or nowadays nylon, usually about 3mm diameter.  It is applied dry. The wheel can be first wrapped with a sticky cloth tape - like the old stuff used to wrap wiring harnesses, which has a tacky surface. This helps keep the binding in place.  "Sniper tape" is a modern equivalent. 

Some people use 'coxscombing' where each turn is secured by a half knot:

http://www.frayedknotarts.com/tutorials/coxcombing/simple.html

The ends are secured by threading them back under the binding like whipping. 

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46 minutes ago, john.r.davies said:

EH?   Please explain, Ian?    You agree that wet binding will shrink on drying, but then recommend dry  wrapping!   Do you expect really sweaty hands?

John

My mistake John, I meant to type wet. Doh. It’s an age thing. 
Rgds Ian

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Hi,

last weekend my mate Dieter borrowed me his shrinker / strecher,

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I made negatives from cardboard from the car floor,

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during the week the positives, the right and left flange,

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today first fitting and drilling 8 of the 10 holes.

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Yes, so far I'm pleased with the result

:)

Ciao, Marco

 

 

Edited by Z320
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