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New 1962, whoops, 1960 TR3 A Owner


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Plus 1 on David Tushingham Cheftush. nice guy who's has done some restorations of seriously decayed TR's. In Ontario and knows a lot about the cars, can put you onto "Yank" terminology and also s

David, if you have registered and can log on to the members only part of the site you can access workshop manuals etc from there and should be able to find a wiring diagram. The horn button simply ear

Hi David, Nice car, pretty sure that there must be more TR owners in your area. Enjoy the TR! Yves

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27 minutes ago, David Owen said:

If anyone would like a recitation of the entire dictionary of Canadian profanity I'm up for it.  I practised quite a bit this evening.  It appears to be a TR6 transmission.

I don't think so. I have a TR6 and the transmission is very similar to the earlier cars. 

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They are more or less the same externally David. The later boxes have a thicker flange on the bell-housing and synchro on first gear.  

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I think those numbers are just casting numbers. 

It should have a number with two letter prefix stamped somewhere, perhaps on the bell-housing near the clutch operating lever. (e.g. TS 12345.) 

This old thread has more details and might help:

A lot of early cars have been fitted with the later boxes to benefit from the extra synchro and stronger flange casting.  If you are following Bob's engine rebuild thread you will see his car has a box from a saloon.

 

Edited by RobH
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1 minute ago, RobH said:

I think those numbers are just casting numbers. 

It should have a number with two letter prefix stamped somewhere, perhaps on the bell-housing near the clutch operating lever. (e.g. TS 12345.) 

This old thread has more details and might help:

A lot of early cars have been fitted with the later boxes to benefit from the extra synchro and stronger flange casting.  

 

 

Thank you Rob. 

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Looks like a non overdrive 4 sychro unit as it has the nyloc securing the internal reverse selector lever on the LH side of the case and the speedo output to the rear of it on the same side.

Cheers

Peter W

PS Here is my 4 synchro non overdrive gearbox - The serial no is visible on the LH side of the bell housing CT something in second photo.

 

IMG_2581.jpg

IMG_2582.jpg

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Thank you Peter.  That fits with what I was told at purchase.

So after some serious soul searching and deep reflection and in light of my point made elsewhere about naming threads appropriately I think this thread should be renamed "Mr. Bean buys a TR3 eh".

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No. You can fit the later box to the original spring clutch.  (As I have done on my 3A). 

The change with the diaphragm clutch isn't the gearbox, it's the flywheel, which is drilled differently.

Edited by RobH
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25 minutes ago, RobH said:

No. You can fit the later box to the original spring clutch.  (As I have done on my 3A). 

The change with the diaphragm clutch isn't the gearbox, it's the flywheel, which is drilled differently.

 

 

Thank you.

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The wiring harness project begins.  My wife has the paramedics on speed dial.

There are a number of ancillary projects happening as well.

A very good compression test result this evening, all 4 cylinders are an an identical 170. And very very little rust anywhere.

630001200_Wiringharnessphoto1.jpeg.8fe1ea04a8541ae61092052bb89ab236.jpeg

 

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6 hours ago, David Owen said:

I am wondering if this leak is easy to fix?  There is also fluid around a bolt on the top in front of the gear shift.

255209143_Trannyleak1.jpeg.52f54d10009d9c7b9d48972f9fb3089c.jpeg

Probably the 3 O-ring seals around the gear selector shafts. Be careful not to loose the spring assisted ball bearing balls that hold position of the shafts. Fitting them back can be very tricky. https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/  under tab Tech articles, Gearbox,  Cover overhaul you can find a very good "how to"

IMG_1249.jpg.4d9c7cd9216e678efd1e60e8a09c4762.jpg

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very appropriate.

Lest we forget.

Thank you to all our veterans.

Graham

 

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On 11/11/2020 at 5:00 AM, David Owen said:

I am wondering if this leak is easy to fix?  There is also fluid around a bolt on the top in front of the gear shift.

255209143_Trannyleak1.jpeg.52f54d10009d9c7b9d48972f9fb3089c.jpeg

Hi David,

you are absolutely right to wonder about how to seal this leak!

The o-rings slide free on the shafts AND in the housing, if you compress them they grip the shafts.

I guess it was never the idea of the engineers to seal this too much - to get always some oil on the forks.

And this shafts look like "up on the top" but indeed the seals are "down on the ground"

because the engine and gearbox are inclined in the car / frame.

Anyway - Roger and me did some efforts to get them sealed,

indeed they are now much better sealed on my Tr4A but not 100%. Thats OK for me.

for more information see this post

Ciao, Marco

 

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5 hours ago, Z320 said:

Hi David,

you are absolutely right to wonder about how to seal this leak!

The o-rings slide free on the shafts AND in the housing, if you compress them they grip the shafts.

I guess it was never the idea of the engineers to seal this too much - to get always some oil on the forks.

And this shafts look like "up on the top" but indeed the seals are "down on the ground"

because the engine and gearbox are inclined in the car / frame.

Anyway - Roger and me did some efforts to get them sealed,

indeed they are now much better sealed on my Tr4A but not 100%. Thats OK for me.

for more information see this post

Ciao, Marco

 

 

Thank you very much Marco.  Parts are 10 days away so I will be at it soon.

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I don't know of a ready-made one but I did just that by stripping out the innards of a faulty control box (not a Lucas original) and fitting a four-way modern fuse block inside.  I believe you can buy empty control boxes. 

 

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1 hour ago, RobH said:

I don't know of a ready-made one but I did just that by stripping out the innards of a faulty control box (not a Lucas original) and fitting a four-way modern fuse block inside.  I believe you can buy empty control boxes. 

 

 

Thanks Rob.  Great idea. That'll clean up the wiring.

 

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The trick is to find a fuse-holder block which has the fuses close enough together to allow it to fit in the box. Many of them are spaced too far apart which makes the block too long or else have connecting tags either side which makes it too wide.  Some minor surgery may be necessary.  

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