David Owen Posted November 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 I don't think this is a TR3A transmission? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted November 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 If anyone would like a recitation of the entire dictionary of Canadian profanity I'm up for it. I practised quite a bit this evening. It appears to be a TR6 transmission. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted November 10, 2020 Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 27 minutes ago, David Owen said: If anyone would like a recitation of the entire dictionary of Canadian profanity I'm up for it. I practised quite a bit this evening. It appears to be a TR6 transmission. I don't think so. I have a TR6 and the transmission is very similar to the earlier cars. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted November 10, 2020 Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 They are more or less the same externally David. The later boxes have a thicker flange on the bell-housing and synchro on first gear. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted November 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 (edited) Hmmm, it Has Stanpart No. 3 stamped on one side and 304692 SM on the other. Also 305048 WYF-E359 Edited November 10, 2020 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted November 10, 2020 Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 (edited) I think those numbers are just casting numbers. It should have a number with two letter prefix stamped somewhere, perhaps on the bell-housing near the clutch operating lever. (e.g. TS 12345.) This old thread has more details and might help: A lot of early cars have been fitted with the later boxes to benefit from the extra synchro and stronger flange casting. If you are following Bob's engine rebuild thread you will see his car has a box from a saloon. Edited November 10, 2020 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted November 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 Also, after doing some reading, these numbers are cast into the housing, not stamped. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted November 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 1 minute ago, RobH said: I think those numbers are just casting numbers. It should have a number with two letter prefix stamped somewhere, perhaps on the bell-housing near the clutch operating lever. (e.g. TS 12345.) This old thread has more details and might help: A lot of early cars have been fitted with the later boxes to benefit from the extra synchro and stronger flange casting. Thank you Rob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 10, 2020 Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 (edited) Looks like a non overdrive 4 sychro unit as it has the nyloc securing the internal reverse selector lever on the LH side of the case and the speedo output to the rear of it on the same side. Cheers Peter W PS Here is my 4 synchro non overdrive gearbox - The serial no is visible on the LH side of the bell housing CT something in second photo. Edited November 10, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted November 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 Thank you Peter. That fits with what I was told at purchase. So after some serious soul searching and deep reflection and in light of my point made elsewhere about naming threads appropriately I think this thread should be renamed "Mr. Bean buys a TR3 eh". Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted November 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 (edited) CT12348. Does that automatically mean I have the "diaphragm" clutch set up? Edited November 10, 2020 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted November 10, 2020 Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 (edited) No. You can fit the later box to the original spring clutch. (As I have done on my 3A). The change with the diaphragm clutch isn't the gearbox, it's the flywheel, which is drilled differently. Edited November 10, 2020 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted November 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 25 minutes ago, RobH said: No. You can fit the later box to the original spring clutch. (As I have done on my 3A). The change with the diaphragm clutch isn't the gearbox, it's the flywheel, which is drilled differently. Thank you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted November 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2020 I am wondering if this leak is easy to fix? There is also fluid around a bolt on the top in front of the gear shift. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted November 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2020 The wiring harness project begins. My wife has the paramedics on speed dial. There are a number of ancillary projects happening as well. A very good compression test result this evening, all 4 cylinders are an an identical 170. And very very little rust anywhere. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ijonsson Posted November 11, 2020 Report Share Posted November 11, 2020 6 hours ago, David Owen said: I am wondering if this leak is easy to fix? There is also fluid around a bolt on the top in front of the gear shift. Probably the 3 O-ring seals around the gear selector shafts. Be careful not to loose the spring assisted ball bearing balls that hold position of the shafts. Fitting them back can be very tricky. https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/ under tab Tech articles, Gearbox, Cover overhaul you can find a very good "how to" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted November 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2020 Thank you. I think I can do that. And do it without removing the gearbox. It would probably be a good idea to join my wife and do some yoga while I wait for the parts to arrive. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted November 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2020 Thought this was an appropriate photo for today for obvious reasons. Secondly, this annotated diagram is the reason I decided on this forum to educate myself. Thank you Rob. And everyone else. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham J Posted November 12, 2020 Report Share Posted November 12, 2020 very appropriate. Lest we forget. Thank you to all our veterans. Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 12, 2020 Report Share Posted November 12, 2020 On 11/11/2020 at 5:00 AM, David Owen said: I am wondering if this leak is easy to fix? There is also fluid around a bolt on the top in front of the gear shift. Hi David, you are absolutely right to wonder about how to seal this leak! The o-rings slide free on the shafts AND in the housing, if you compress them they grip the shafts. I guess it was never the idea of the engineers to seal this too much - to get always some oil on the forks. And this shafts look like "up on the top" but indeed the seals are "down on the ground" because the engine and gearbox are inclined in the car / frame. Anyway - Roger and me did some efforts to get them sealed, indeed they are now much better sealed on my Tr4A but not 100%. Thats OK for me. for more information see this post Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted November 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2020 5 hours ago, Z320 said: Hi David, you are absolutely right to wonder about how to seal this leak! The o-rings slide free on the shafts AND in the housing, if you compress them they grip the shafts. I guess it was never the idea of the engineers to seal this too much - to get always some oil on the forks. And this shafts look like "up on the top" but indeed the seals are "down on the ground" because the engine and gearbox are inclined in the car / frame. Anyway - Roger and me did some efforts to get them sealed, indeed they are now much better sealed on my Tr4A but not 100%. Thats OK for me. for more information see this post Ciao, Marco Thank you very much Marco. Parts are 10 days away so I will be at it soon. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted November 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2020 Question, has anyone designed a dummy regulator with an internal fusebox that can be used instead of having a fuse box sitting on the firewall seperately? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted November 12, 2020 Report Share Posted November 12, 2020 I don't know of a ready-made one but I did just that by stripping out the innards of a faulty control box (not a Lucas original) and fitting a four-way modern fuse block inside. I believe you can buy empty control boxes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted November 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2020 1 hour ago, RobH said: I don't know of a ready-made one but I did just that by stripping out the innards of a faulty control box (not a Lucas original) and fitting a four-way modern fuse block inside. I believe you can buy empty control boxes. Thanks Rob. Great idea. That'll clean up the wiring. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted November 12, 2020 Report Share Posted November 12, 2020 The trick is to find a fuse-holder block which has the fuses close enough together to allow it to fit in the box. Many of them are spaced too far apart which makes the block too long or else have connecting tags either side which makes it too wide. Some minor surgery may be necessary. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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