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ijonsson

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About ijonsson

  • Birthday 12/26/1950

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  • Website URL
    http://www.ijonsson.se

Profile Information

  • Location
    Oskarshamn, Sweden
  • Cars Owned:
    First car Mini Cooper
    second Porsche 356B
    then 40+ other of no interest (except a Dodge Dart V8)
    Then built a Westfield
    had a TR6 PI
    and now -54 TR2 longdoor and a MG Midget

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  1. Look at the wiring diagram on the casing, to me it looks like a standard on-off relay
  2. It is, and I think it looks worse than it actually is
  3. Oops, didn't see that , but Eli said earlier that it is of steel.
  4. I don't know if you got a welder, but I would weld a big nut on top of the old one. The heat in it self might help to loosen the plug.
  5. "soots up" explains why my TR2 sounds softer now after a couple of years driving with a stainless system (TR Shop) than it sounded with brand new system, or maybe it's my hearing that is worse now
  6. You can make wet plugs as new heating them red hot with a blowtorch/gas burner
  7. Upload the video to Facebook or YouTube and then post the link here
  8. OK, didn't test that. I have a couple of senders with lower resistance. But in my head lower resistance would deliver more power to the gauge and then the gauge would read even higher. But I don't know how the gauge works so I'm probably wrong here
  9. Went out to the garage, checked voltage (9,5V) from stabilizer and thought I'll test RobH tip about adjusting the gauge, so took it out and nudged the cold side to the "colder" side of the pointer just to test. Ran the engine until warm, and out of luck, now it's marginally above what I can measure with the IR thermometer! Happy days
  10. I tested all of the senders simultaneously in a bowl of water, gradually increasing the temperature (checked with a digital thermometer) measuring the resistance with a multimeter at 25, 40, 60 and 80 deg C. Fuel gauge is OK, and I've measured the voltage output from the stabilizer with a multimeter. It didn't happen suddenly, it's been like that since the complete rebuild, nuts and bolts, of the car finished in 2018. New loom, new gauge, new sender (twice) as I suspected the sender as the culprit. Earth is checked and good, the bolts holding the housing ensures that. Thank
  11. How can I make the temperature gauge show correct reading? I have a new "classic" electric Smiths gauge in my TR2, I've tried several senders and it always shows 20 degrees C to high reading, I have a voltage stabilizer that gives a little less than 10 V. I connected another 12V temperature gauge to the sender and checked with an infrared thermometer and both show same value, 20 deg C below the Smiths gauge reading. I put 4 senders in a pan with hot water and made readings at 4 different temperatures and I am using the one marked 8730 with the highest resistance. Would a resistance in series
  12. This winter I installed a brake servo in my TR2 with Lockheed hydraulics. It made the pedal travel much longer before acting, but when the brakes engage it's much more efficient than without servo. Anyone got experience of this? Is it normal that pedal travel is much longer with the servo? I have the same servo in my Midget MK3, and in that car it doesn't need the extra pedal travel before acting, the Midget has disc brakes at the front, can that make the difference or could it simply be a difference in MC piston diameter?
  13. You maybe already done this, but before worrying about speedo not reading correct, why not check the reading of your speedometer with an GPS speedo?
  14. From Haynes workshop manual I guess your question actually is if you should turn the convex side of the spring washer towards the coil spring or not. To my knowledge it shouldn't matter.
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