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About ijonsson

  • Birthday 12/26/1950

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  • Location
    Oskarshamn, Sweden
  • Cars Owned:
    First car Mini Cooper
    second Porsche 356B
    then 40+ other of no interest (except a Dodge Dart V8)
    Then built a Westfield, had a TR6 PI
    and now -54 TR2 longdoor

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  1. This winter I installed a brake servo in my TR2 with Lockheed hydraulics. It made the pedal travel much longer before acting, but when the brakes engage it's much more efficient than without servo. Anyone got experience of this? Is it normal that pedal travel is much longer with the servo? I have the same servo in my Midget MK3, and in that car it doesn't need the extra pedal travel before acting, the Midget has disc brakes at the front, can that make the difference or could it simply be a difference in MC piston diameter?
  2. You maybe already done this, but before worrying about speedo not reading correct, why not check the reading of your speedometer with an GPS speedo?
  3. From Haynes workshop manual I guess your question actually is if you should turn the convex side of the spring washer towards the coil spring or not. To my knowledge it shouldn't matter.
  4. Not an answer to your question, but a problem with the wiper motor not running, in my experience, is that the tiny plastic insulators that holds the spring that holds the carbon brushes together against the collector get old and brittle and breaks.
  5. Great and thanks, it opened in my free edition of DraftSight as well, now quarantine won't be a problem. I'll spend a lot of time to adapt this diagram to my TR2 (much modified) diagram, at the moment a .jpg-file.
  6. This fault was new to me, the engine wasn't running well, so I tried tuning carbs and ignition and checked the plugs. I didn't get any result and it seemed that it ran even worse after checking the plugs. This continued until I finally discovered that the brass insert in the cap, of one of the caps, was stuck on the plug. Checking the other caps showed that 3 out of 4 brass connectors were loose. Substituted them for considerably more expensive caps and the engine is now running as it should. So, advice to myself, stop buying cheap stuff!
  7. I did something similar, but did add relays for lights and horns not to draw a lot of current over the switch and push button.
  8. This is how I solved it, overlapping "flaps" and Velcro strips, also a "neck with Velcro strips around the legs of the roll over bar. Local shoemaker helped making the modification. Not 100 % watertight, but close to.
  9. And my LHD version http://ijonsson.se/tr2/photo_diary.php?day=interior&folder=interior&id=IMG_3434
  10. I'm using this fan, http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/Turbo-3000 it is a bit noisy but delivers a lot of air, quite impressed. I'm using it hot days in slow traffic via a manual switch. It can be found on Ebay and Amazon for about GBP 25-30 and it looks, and seems to have same data as the one sold at Merlin motorsport
  11. It is superthin stainless sleeve you press over the axle end and the worn area. SKF is the most known manufacturer but other make them as well. You need the exact outer diameter of the axle to get the right sleeve
  12. "I have seen this done using stainless beadings that have been 'scotchbrited' then painted body colour " Thats what I did, and it works (at least has done so for 3 years)
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