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New 1962, whoops, 1960 TR3 A Owner


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one know if it is OK to find Mr Tushingham and contact him?  Or does he not want to be bothered?

 

Very active on YouTube. 
https://www.youtube.com/c/cheftush
 

he is busy with his 250 at the moment.

 

he comes on here occasionally too 

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/profile/6700-m-pied-lourd/

 

Edited by Hamish
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Plus 1 on David Tushingham Cheftush. nice guy who's has done some restorations of seriously decayed TR's. In Ontario and knows a lot about the cars, can put you onto "Yank" terminology and also s

David, if you have registered and can log on to the members only part of the site you can access workshop manuals etc from there and should be able to find a wiring diagram. The horn button simply ear

Hi David, Nice car, pretty sure that there must be more TR owners in your area. Enjoy the TR! Yves

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8 hours ago, foster461 said:

Chef Tush is all over the internet, I doubt that he is hiding and he seems like a nice guy.

Yes. I watched his entire series on the 1959 TR3 restoration and it was highly educational.  

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36 minutes ago, Hamish said:

one know if it is OK to find Mr Tushingham and contact him?  Or does he not want to be bothered?

 

Very active on YouTube. 
https://www.youtube.com/c/cheftush
 

he is busy with his 250 at the moment.

 

he comes on here occasionally too 

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/profile/6700-m-pied-lourd/

 


Thank you. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Interesting week last week.  Went for a rip with my friend who just sorted out his AH Sprite and about 10K from home the car quit.  Turns out there was a leak in the head gasket which ended up melting the rear of the alternator and associated wires. Almost Apollo 13 stuff.  Apparently the wiring was questionable as well. Amateur driver.  I should have heard the difference in the way the car ran with that leak. (I bought a fire extinguisher after the first Apollo 13 comment)

Anyway, now in the process of having that fixed and replacing the fuel pump. No time to do it myself.

Can't wait until I can rip out all the rest of the messed up wiring in this car. 

Off to pick up Bob's Bulbs from the Post Office, a bright spot during down time. :D

 

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There was some really good information somewhere on the forum about rectifying air been sucked in through the throttle shaft guides.  I searched the forum and googled it but couldn't find it again.  Does anyone know where that is?

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4 minutes ago, David Owen said:

There was some really good information somewhere on the forum about rectifying air been sucked in through the throttle shaft guides.  I searched the forum and googled it but couldn't find it again.  Does anyone know where that is?

 

Also is the Moss oversize throttle shaft a good option?

 

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The bushes tend not to wear so any leakage is generally sorted by replacing the shaft. 
Remove a shaft and try an unworn section for size in the bushes. 

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4 hours ago, Drewmotty said:

The bushes tend not to wear so any leakage is generally sorted by replacing the shaft. 
Remove a shaft and try an unworn section for size in the bushes. 

 

Thanks will do.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So I have decided to call the car Prof.  It's a classroom and lab on wheels.

Aside from that what should I be looking for when this happens?:

204310872_InstrumentCluster.jpg.5d26e4a34382d96b9b84fad7a18ce008.jpg

 

The car is idling smoothly. Every once in a while it will jump to the positive side.  It's an instantaneous move when it does change sides.  I turned all the lights on to get this reading.  When they are off it is around -10. 

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Looks like the ignition light is on so there will be a current discharge due to the ignition  of about 4 Amps or so (which given the approximate nature of the ammeter indications could perhaps be your -10A .  To jump suddenly to a positive charge would be rather odd as it implies the generator suddenly starts working. If your car has a dynamo perhaps the cut-out contact in the control box needs cleaning ?  (To be safe, if you try that disconnect the battery first before you open the control box.  Closing the cut-out with the engine off sends a big current into the dynamo armature if the battery is connected )

Edited by RobH
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10 minutes ago, RobH said:

Looks like the ignition light is on so there will be a current discharge due to the ignition  of about 4 Amps or so (which given the approximate nature of the ammeter indications could perhaps be your -10A .  To jump suddenly to a positive charge would be rather odd as it implies the generator suddenly starts working. If your car has a dynamo perhaps the cut-out contact in the control box needs cleaning ?  (To be safe, if you try that disconnect the battery first before you open the control box.  Closing the cut-out with the engine off sends a big current into the dynamo armature if the battery is connected )

 

 

Thanks Rob.  It's an alternator.  Which was just replaced.

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25 minutes ago, RobH said:

That makes it odder.  Does the ignition light go out when you get a positive excursion? 

Yes it goes out.. 

I didn't have this problem when the alternator first went in.  The car appears to be running well and there isn't a problem on restart after a long drive.  This maybe a naive assumption but you would think it would drain the battery wouldn't you?

Edited by David Owen
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Well either the drive belt is slipping David or there is a problem inside the alternator.  The ignition lamp is driven from the diodes which power the alternator field so perhaps the field slip-ring is making an intermittent connection at low speeds.  I take it this doesn't happen during normal driving when the engine revs are higher?

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14 minutes ago, RobH said:

Well either the drive belt is slipping David or there is a problem inside the alternator.  The ignition lamp is driven from the diodes which power the alternator field so perhaps the field slip-ring is making an intermittent connection at low speeds.  I take it this doesn't happen during normal driving when the engine revs are higher?

 

It stays on at any speed which has me baffled.  The ammeter needle doesn't budge even at higher revs.

 

Is there any way that the heat shield could be interfering with something because it is attached to the rear of the alternator bracket?

Edited by David Owen
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Sounds like a duff alternator then. The ammeter is obviously connected properly else it would not register the current drawn by the headlights.

 If the ignition lamp stays on the alternator isn't generating enough voltage to exceed the battery voltage so can't charge it - which is confirmed if the ammeter doesn't show a charging current except on the odd brief occasions you mention when it must spring into life. I can't explain why your battery isn't yet showing signs of getting drained though. Perhaps it might soon.........

This isn't anything to do with bad connections to the alternator, because the light stays on. If the connections or earth were bad it wouldn't do that.

 

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So after a full 4 hours of messing about I discovered some metal tape on the engine side of the two wires going into the alternator that I'd missed when removing it from the wires when the car was returned to me with the new alternator and I installed the heat shield..  I managed to get it off with a wood skewer thinking it would just look neater and should not be there.  On a whim I turned the car on.  Problem solved. 

 

Thanks for your input Rob.  It had me looking in the right area.

 

We need a wider variety of emoticons oh here.

Edited by David Owen
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I can post a photo showing where the heater rheostat fits on my RHD car but yours is LHD so it will be different I suspect.  Rod recently posted a picture of where the cigarette lighter fitted, (I have mine hidden under the dash).  You need to scroll down on the link below.

Rgds Ian

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PS My rheostat is in the same place as Bob's in the following post.

Edited by Ian Vincent
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1190681414_Trimkit1.thumb.jpg.d4e2b7952d3c044c200082f638db6608.jpg 

Rheostat goes in the larger of the two holes on the RHS next to speedo. other hole is for overdrive switch.

Cigar lighter was optional extra, Rod recently showed it to be below & left of the rev counter, but there is no pre drilled hole there.

Bob.

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