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M. Pied Lourd

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    Newmarket, Ontario, Canada

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  1. M. Pied Lourd

    Gas Struts

    https://clarkandclarkinc.com/catalog/detail/bonnet-lift-kit-for-tr6 Cheers, Tush
  2. I believe the Roadster Factory in the US stocks the mounting kit. Just checked...the left hand side is available, the right is NLS part number 625311 For the pieces that attach to the A post, they are available under part number 625315 Cheers, Tush
  3. If you are looking for something to try, you can try Nightwatch Blue, Chrysler DB9. Cheers, Tush
  4. I was hoping you would jump in here Tom Good to see you. Cheers Tush
  5. Lincoln Easy Mig 140 running C25 Gas does everything I want it to do on any TR that I have worked on. Cheers Tush
  6. Hi Peter, What other mods do you have? Cam? Headwork? Exhaust etc. Cheers Tush
  7. Really Nice Paul. I’ve made some pretty good COVID progress on mine but I’ve still got a very long way to go. Cheers, Tush
  8. Making sure the car is fairly close to being level Cheers Tush
  9. Thank You for the reply. I'll see how long it will take to get the other style to me.... I figured it could work as there will be at least 1/2 of the edge of the cup to still seal along with a little RTV around the edge....plus the plug would be held in with the gasket and front engine plate....you are right though, I would hate to have to take it back out again. I am planning on doing my engine break in prior to putting the body back on but I am not sure a 20 minute break in time would be sufficient to know if it was leaking or not.... As an aside, I have sent the Vendor I purch
  10. Thank you for this thread...I’m just encountering the same problem on my TR250 engine build. I have the cup type and also have the recess...I’m thinking of carefully grinding down the lip of the cup one the ensure it is flush (or slightly below) the face of the block so the gasket and front engine plate fit correctly over it...it is the right diameter plug but not the right depth. Any thought on this approach? Don’t think I want to wait 2 weeks for a new dished one... Cheers Tush
  11. On the doors alone (if that is what you are asking) there are 6 rivet clips on my TR250. Cheers Tush
  12. Stuart, question for you, I see you added some triangulation at the trailing arm box sections. Is there any concerns having the plates on top of the frame? Does this interfere with the body fitting down on the chassis outriggers or do you just add shims to compensate? Cheers, Tush
  13. Not everyone’s cup of tea, but I have modded my chassis as above but also have bars in front of the diff support...so support for and aft...this meant I had to channel and pocket my body tub so like I said, not everyone’s cup of tea... Cheers Tush
  14. Hi Graham, Take a look at this gents video. I think it’s a good video and shares my sentiments. It goes into the differences of the various frames and their strengths and weaknesses. On my TR250 restoration, I added structural steel bars to support the diff from rocking foreword and back...not everyone’s cup of tea but I thought I’d go ahead and try something different than my TR6 stock frame set up... Cheers Tush
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