Jump to content

M. Pied Lourd

Registered User
  • Content Count

    209
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    Newmarket, Ontario, Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

491 profile views
  1. I was hoping you would jump in here Tom Good to see you. Cheers Tush
  2. Lincoln Easy Mig 140 running C25 Gas does everything I want it to do on any TR that I have worked on. Cheers Tush
  3. Hi Peter, What other mods do you have? Cam? Headwork? Exhaust etc. Cheers Tush
  4. Really Nice Paul. I’ve made some pretty good COVID progress on mine but I’ve still got a very long way to go. Cheers, Tush
  5. Making sure the car is fairly close to being level Cheers Tush
  6. Thank You for the reply. I'll see how long it will take to get the other style to me.... I figured it could work as there will be at least 1/2 of the edge of the cup to still seal along with a little RTV around the edge....plus the plug would be held in with the gasket and front engine plate....you are right though, I would hate to have to take it back out again. I am planning on doing my engine break in prior to putting the body back on but I am not sure a 20 minute break in time would be sufficient to know if it was leaking or not.... As an aside, I have sent the Vendor I purch
  7. Thank you for this thread...I’m just encountering the same problem on my TR250 engine build. I have the cup type and also have the recess...I’m thinking of carefully grinding down the lip of the cup one the ensure it is flush (or slightly below) the face of the block so the gasket and front engine plate fit correctly over it...it is the right diameter plug but not the right depth. Any thought on this approach? Don’t think I want to wait 2 weeks for a new dished one... Cheers Tush
  8. On the doors alone (if that is what you are asking) there are 6 rivet clips on my TR250. Cheers Tush
  9. Stuart, question for you, I see you added some triangulation at the trailing arm box sections. Is there any concerns having the plates on top of the frame? Does this interfere with the body fitting down on the chassis outriggers or do you just add shims to compensate? Cheers, Tush
  10. Not everyone’s cup of tea, but I have modded my chassis as above but also have bars in front of the diff support...so support for and aft...this meant I had to channel and pocket my body tub so like I said, not everyone’s cup of tea... Cheers Tush
  11. Hi Graham, Take a look at this gents video. I think it’s a good video and shares my sentiments. It goes into the differences of the various frames and their strengths and weaknesses. On my TR250 restoration, I added structural steel bars to support the diff from rocking foreword and back...not everyone’s cup of tea but I thought I’d go ahead and try something different than my TR6 stock frame set up... Cheers Tush
  12. Hi All, Not sure if there is any interest, but I’m helping a neighbour/buddy of mine to restore a 1976 NA Spec TR6. In actuality, there are two cars involved with the other being a 73 that was purchased as a parts/body donor for the 76. We have spent 18 days stripping the two cars down (from as little as two hours per day to as many as eight hours per day). I have made a playlist of our efforts on YouTube if anyone would like to follow along. Cheers Tush
  13. Looks Awesome! Cheers Tush
  14. Looks like you are missing a bit...here’s mine. Cheers Tush
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.