David Owen Posted June 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2021 1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Is there are obvious square sticking out the front of the starter? If so turn it 90 degrees with a spanner (wrench) That will present a different set of contacts of the commutator to the carbon brushes. If it now works a new set of carbon brushes, a commutator skim on a lathe and a new rear armature bearing are needed. Peter W No there doesn't appear to be Peter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted June 17, 2021 Report Share Posted June 17, 2021 6 hours ago, David Owen said: No there doesn't appear to be Peter. That is the pre engaged type of starter, or "high torque" motor that many now use to replace the old heavy Lucas item. These have their own solenoid to pull in the drive gear and can be used either with or without the original bulkhead mounted solenoid. As you have replaced the bulkhead solenoid I would suspect the one on the starter has failed. Time to remove it and get it checked out or replaced. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted June 17, 2021 Report Share Posted June 17, 2021 I would try a direct feed from battery to the main starter connection to see if it spins. if it does the problem is up stream. if it doesn’t it’s the starter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 17, 2021 Report Share Posted June 17, 2021 Do you think the solenoid up on the bulkhead is ok? 1/2 hour job. disconnect battery Undo the three phillips headed cross slot screws and remove the cover to the solenoid plunger and contacts. On the starter motor. 2 are visible in your photo. Pull out the plunger and contact disc. Clean the contact disc with fine abrasive. Clean the two contacts inside the housing that the contact disc is pulled to by the solenoid plunger. Wipe clean spray with contact lube/cleaner. Refit and test. Dirty contact discs are not uncommon on this type of starter. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2021 2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Do you think the solenoid up on the bulkhead is ok? 1/2 hour job. disconnect battery Undo the three phillips headed cross slot screws and remove the cover to the solenoid plunger and contacts. On the starter motor. 2 are visible in your photo. Pull out the plunger and contact disc. Clean the contact disc with fine abrasive. Clean the two contacts inside the housing that the contact disc is pulled to by the solenoid plunger. Wipe clean spray with contact lube/cleaner. Refit and test. Dirty contact discs are not uncommon on this type of starter. Peter W I just replaced the Solenoid on the bulkhead. The problem was intermittent both with the old one (that liked to smoke) and the new one. I think I will try Hamish's direct feed to the starter. Paramedic's on call. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2021 5 hours ago, David Owen said: I just replaced the Solenoid on the bulkhead. The problem was intermittent both with the old one (that liked to smoke) and the new one. I think I will try Hamish's direct feed to the starter. Paramedic's on call. Figures, it is starting now. I'll have to wait until it stops working again.....somewhere in the Niagara wine region miles from anywhere useful. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2021 I am pretty certain that the rear oil seal on the gearbox is leaking. This is causing oil to be thrown up onto the tunnel and it is leaking down onto the right hand floor panel inside the cabin. Do I need to remove the gearbox to replace that seal? If I do, what else should I do when the gearbox is out? I did search this and everything was crank seal related. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted June 20, 2021 Report Share Posted June 20, 2021 Hi David, if you remove the tunnel you can see the output flange on the gearbox. You will probably have to completely remove the propshaft to get enough room to work but should be able to remove the drive flange and replace the oil seal. You may need to devise some way of locking the drive flange while slackening the large nut, I usually manage by putting a screwdriver through one of the bolt holes and jamming another in behind that to lever on. Check the drive flange where the seal runs as they can wear a groove and may need replacing or use a speedi sleeve. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 On 6/20/2021 at 2:51 AM, Ralph Whitaker said: Hi David, if you remove the tunnel you can see the output flange on the gearbox. You will probably have to completely remove the propshaft to get enough room to work but should be able to remove the drive flange and replace the oil seal. You may need to devise some way of locking the drive flange while slackening the large nut, I usually manage by putting a screwdriver through one of the bolt holes and jamming another in behind that to lever on. Check the drive flange where the seal runs as they can wear a groove and may need replacing or use a speedi sleeve. Ralph Thank you very much Ralph. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 (edited) This is interesting, this car has the same sort of disparity between engine block # and the car's serial # as mine does. Although that serial # looks to be a 59, maybe even a 58. https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1188363 BEAUTIFUL OLD RESTORATION 1960 TRIUMPH TR3A MARQUE TRIUMPH MODEL TR3A YEAR 1960 CHASSIS N. TS 61473 L ENGINE TS 36752 CAPACITY 1991 cc KM SHOWN 10975 OWNERS 1 FROM 1995 CERTIFICATIONS ASI INTERIOR BLACK LEATHER OUTSIDE RED SOFT TOP BLACK OPTIONS • CHROMED WIRE WHEELS • LEATHER INTERIOR • HOOD FRAME COVER • TONNEAU COVER • TRIUMPH RUBBER MATS • LUGGAGE RACK • BADGES • HIGH SPEED STRATER MOTOR Edited June 21, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 15 hours ago, David Owen said: This is interesting, this car has the same sort of disparity between engine block # and the car's serial # as mine does. Although that serial # looks to be a 59, maybe even a 58. https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1188363 BEAUTIFUL OLD RESTORATION 1960 TRIUMPH TR3A MARQUE TRIUMPH MODEL TR3A YEAR 1960 CHASSIS N. TS 61473 L ENGINE TS 36752 CAPACITY 1991 cc KM SHOWN 10975 OWNERS 1 FROM 1995 CERTIFICATIONS ASI INTERIOR BLACK LEATHER OUTSIDE RED SOFT TOP BLACK OPTIONS • CHROMED WIRE WHEELS • LEATHER INTERIOR • HOOD FRAME COVER • TONNEAU COVER • TRIUMPH RUBBER MATS • LUGGAGE RACK • BADGES • HIGH SPEED STRATER MOTOR Just means its had a replacement lump fitted. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 1 hour ago, stuart said: Just means its had a replacement lump fitted. Stuart. How boring. I was hoping there was a story about a group of 30000 series engine blocks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 (edited) 20 hours ago, David Owen said: This is interesting, this car has the same sort of disparity between engine block # and the car's serial # as mine does. Although that serial # looks to be a 59, maybe even a 58. https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1188363 BEAUTIFUL OLD RESTORATION 1960 TRIUMPH TR3A MARQUE TRIUMPH MODEL TR3A YEAR 1960 CHASSIS N. TS 61473 L ENGINE TS 36752 CAPACITY 1991 cc KM SHOWN 10975 OWNERS 1 FROM 1995 CERTIFICATIONS ASI INTERIOR BLACK LEATHER OUTSIDE RED SOFT TOP BLACK OPTIONS • CHROMED WIRE WHEELS • LEATHER INTERIOR • HOOD FRAME COVER • TONNEAU COVER • TRIUMPH RUBBER MATS • LUGGAGE RACK • BADGES • HIGH SPEED STRATER MOTOR Mine is a 1959 car and from memory has a chassis number that is after the one shown, so something is not right. Rgds Ian Edited June 22, 2021 by Ian Vincent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 19 minutes ago, Ian Vincent said: Mine is a 1959 car and from memory has a chassis number that is after the one shown, so something is not right. Rgds Ian Perhaps it was once owned by a former finance minister? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 22 minutes ago, Ian Vincent said: Mine is a 1959 car and from memory has a chassis number that is after the one shown, so something is not right. Rgds Ian LHD and in the US cars were often registered as the next year if they came in after the middle of the year Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 35 minutes ago, stuart said: LHD and in the US cars were often registered as the next year if they came in after the middle of the year Stuart. Yup. Mine is registered as a 62 but is a 60. I haven't been able to correct it due to Covid....or haven't wanted to go to the licence bureau. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 (edited) On 5/31/2021 at 3:18 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: I put it in the catalogue for TR4A As used on TR250/5/6 Fitted one on brother’s TR2 back in the early 80’s when were writing the catalogues. It fits from the rigid pipe with the banjo fitting to the gauge. Do not forget the leather washer at the gauge fitting. pt no 138308 https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/instruments-cables-dash-switches-tr4-4a-1961-67.html Peter W Hi Peter, Do you think it would be possible to shorten this nylon pipe replacement and the brass "original style" pipe so that the brass pipe runs from the flex hose and ends a couple of inches through the bulkhead where it is connected the nylon pipe which is completely hidden behind the dash? I think I am asking what would be the best way to do this? (join them) Cheers, David Edited June 22, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 1 hour ago, David Owen said: Hi Peter, Do you think it would be possible to shorten this nylon pipe replacement and the brass "original style" pipe so that the brass pipe runs from the flex hose and ends a couple of inches through the bulkhead where it is connected the nylon pipe which is completely hidden behind the dash? I think I am asking what would be the best way to do this? (join them) Cheers, David Never tried to do it. Challenge will be the female fitting to connect the nylon pipe to the rigid pipe.. Also more joints mean more possible leaks. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Never tried to do it. Challenge will be the female fitting to connect the nylon pipe to the rigid pipe.. Also more joints mean more possible leaks. Peter W Thank you. Winter project. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 Another TR3 60000 with a 30000 block. https://classiccars.com/listings/view/1189914/1959-triumph-tr3-for-sale-in-carnation-washington-98014 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted June 23, 2021 Report Share Posted June 23, 2021 On 6/19/2021 at 9:25 PM, David Owen said: I am pretty certain that the rear oil seal on the gearbox is leaking. This is causing oil to be thrown up onto the tunnel and it is leaking down onto the right hand floor panel inside the cabin. Do I need to remove the gearbox to replace that seal? If I do, what else should I do when the gearbox is out? I did search this and everything was crank seal related. mine was too Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted June 23, 2021 Report Share Posted June 23, 2021 But that is end of the input shaft of the gearbox, where it fits into the flywheel spigot bush. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2021 What is the general view of a barn find without a chassis number? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 (edited) Happiness is fully functional gauges! Will strap the capillary to the heater pipe tomorrow. And then the fuel line next winter when that gets rerouted. And I have to change that valve cover. Edited June 24, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 Thanks to everyone that contributed to the thread linked below. Extremely helpful. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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