Lebro Posted May 30, 2021 Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 You may not get it back! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 1 minute ago, Lebro said: You may not get it back! Appreciate the warning. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 7 hours ago, RobH said: Either the sender wire is broken, the sender isn't earthed or the sender is high-resistance. I don't know where you did the earthing check David, but if you do it by removing the wire from the sender and touching it to one of the cylinder head nuts, you should get full deflection on the meter. That will show whether the wire is OK. Next touch it to the body of the sender. Again there should be full deflection. That will prove the sender is earthed. If it is, there is something wrong with the sender itself. You say you measured 62 Ohms 'across the gauge'. Sorry to be thick but do you mean the sender or the internal resistance of the meter itself? The sender should be a GRT104 Based on these tests it is the sender. Full deflection in both cases. Weird. it decreases in resistance as it heats up. I just measured it again, with the temp at the base of the sender at 99F the resistance was 340 Ohms across the disconnected sender itself and at 127F in the same place the resistance had dropped to 250 Ohms. And the gauge didn't move. There is 9.97 volts still running to the gauge. Will this one work?....I'd like to get one quickly and we are still under lock down. https://www.amazon.ca/1969-1976-Triumph-Engine-Coolant-Temperature/dp/B014LGSS1G/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=temperature+sender&qid=1622392364&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWTNBTUFCMFgwRjhFJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjc2MTUwM0FPWjgxQVZXTEhUViZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDU3MTM5MUszT0xKTVdUNlU5JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted May 30, 2021 Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 250 Ohms at 127degF (52 deg C)is not far off correct according to the resistance table in my earlier post, so there doesn't look to be much wrong with the sender at that temperature. Can you check it at a higher temp? It looks as though this might be a compatability thing - maybe the meter adjustment has move in transit? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 30, 2021 Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 I don't know David, but your measurement 250 ohms at 127°F looks about right. still on the cold side though, can you heat the sender up to 190° & check the resistance should be down to around 70 ohms, & I would expect the gauge to be somewhere near the middle. it is adjustable (two slots in the back) so you may have to tweak it. Alternatively just get hold of the correct capillary type ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 1 minute ago, Lebro said: I don't know David, but your measurement 250 ohms at 127°F looks about right. still on the cold side though, can you heat the sender up to 190° & check the resistance should be down to around 70 ohms, & I would expect the gauge to be somewhere near the middle. it is adjustable (two slots in the back) so you may have to tweak it. Alternatively just get hold of the correct capillary type ! Bob. That's on next year's list. It's nice out and I am not driving yet! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 14 minutes ago, RobH said: 250 Ohms at 127degF (52 deg C)is not far off correct according to the resistance table in my earlier post, so there doesn't look to be much wrong with the sender at that temperature. Can you check it at a higher temp? It looks as though this might be a compatability thing - maybe the meter adjustment has move in transit? The compatibility issue is the person trying to fix it and the fact he's trying to fix something! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted May 30, 2021 Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 Adjustment procedure. Note these are not rotational, they sort of slide: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 26 minutes ago, RobH said: Adjustment procedure. Note these are not rotational, they sort of slide: Thank you Rob! That's next. Just took it for a spin around the block without any of the interior and doors and a lawn chair for a driver's seat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 I think I am going to have to start all over again with the wiring. The ammeter jumps up to plus 20 when the revs increase. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted May 30, 2021 Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 That doesn't necessarily sound like a wiring problem - if it was the high current would be there all the time. Perhaps the battery is a bit depleted David. Does the current slowly reduce or just stay at the high level? (I can't remember whether you have an alternator or a dynamo). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 (edited) 16 minutes ago, RobH said: That doesn't necessarily sound like a wiring problem - if it was the high current would be there all the time. Perhaps the battery is a bit depleted David. Does the current slowly reduce or just stay at the high level? (I can't remember whether you have an alternator or a dynamo). Alternator and it's whining a bit which it wasn't before. I'll have to run it for a bit longer but if that's a possible cause that's also a real possibility. I was running the fan with the engine off quite a bit today. The voltage is around 14 though. Edited May 30, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 The good news today was the gearbox appears to shift well and the step to reverse is pronounced, the old one was non-existent. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 30, 2021 Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 Sounds like real progress, keep up with the progress reports. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted May 30, 2021 Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 48 minutes ago, David Owen said: I was running the fan with the engine off quite a bit today. David i found little point in the fan running with out the engine on as there is no circulation from the hot spots the block and the head. (even though that’s how mine is wired ! A small run on time after ignition off) if mine is hot after a run I have the manual switch for the fan on and the car on Tickover with some circulation. a mate on his race dolly sprint has an elec fan and elec water pump and both are set to run on after a run if it’s hot. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 31, 2021 Report Share Posted May 31, 2021 Running the fan with engine off will take a reasonable amount out of the battery, so not surprised the ammeter was showing a high charge rate. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2021 15 hours ago, Hamish said: David i found little point in the fan running with out the engine on as there is no circulation from the hot spots the block and the head. (even though that’s how mine is wired ! A small run on time after ignition off) if mine is hot after a run I have the manual switch for the fan on and the car on Tickover with some circulation. a mate on his race dolly sprint has an elec fan and elec water pump and both are set to run on after a run if it’s hot. 4 hours ago, Lebro said: Running the fan with engine off will take a reasonable amount out of the battery, so not surprised the ammeter was showing a high charge rate. Bob. Thank you. Makes sense....now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2021 (edited) Question: What is the best way to shape the oil pressure line between the bulkhead and the gauge so the dash panel can be more readily reinstalled or pulled out? Edited May 31, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted May 31, 2021 Report Share Posted May 31, 2021 Good question!! For sure it’s real pain if you maintain the ‘rigid’ oil pipe, I can’t help thinking that a length of flexible hosing judiously inserted somewhere would make life a lot easier. Surely somebody has thought this out and already done it…... james Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 31, 2021 Report Share Posted May 31, 2021 (edited) I put it in the catalogue for TR4A As used on TR250/5/6 Fitted one on brother’s TR2 back in the early 80’s when were writing the catalogues. It fits from the rigid pipe with the banjo fitting to the gauge. Do not forget the leather washer at the gauge fitting. pt no 138308 https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/instruments-cables-dash-switches-tr4-4a-1961-67.html Peter W Edited May 31, 2021 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2021 28 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: I put it in the catalogue for TR4A As used on TR250/5/6 Fitted one on brother’s TR2 back in the early 80’s when were writing the catalogues. It fits from the rigid pipe with the banjo fitting to the gauge. Do not forget the leather washer at the gauge fitting. pt no 138308 https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/instruments-cables-dash-switches-tr4-4a-1961-67.html Peter W Ha! Thanks Peter, the part no. worked here as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2021 (edited) For Moss Europe, what are typical back order times and when it says "Available To Order" does that mean they are produced on single order? https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/pipe-water-return-stainless-steel-130039sst.html?assoc=115013 https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/thermo-switch-88c-on-79c-off-im50120.html?assoc=115017 Edited May 31, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted May 31, 2021 Report Share Posted May 31, 2021 (edited) On 5/31/2021 at 9:25 PM, David Owen said: For Moss Europe, what are typical back order times and when it says "Available To Order" does that mean they are produced on single order? https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/pipe-water-return-stainless-steel-130039sst.html?assoc=115013 https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/thermo-switch-88c-on-79c-off-im50120.html?assoc=115017 Just means they are waiting for new stock to arrive. Ralph Just re read this weeks later and realised I was half asleep when I gave my first answer. Of course "available to order" means just that, and lead times are at the mercy of the suppliers. Back order means that they are awaiting new stock. Sorry for being a wally, Ralph. Edited June 12, 2021 by Ralph Whitaker Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2021 45 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said: Just means they are waiting for new stock to arrive. Ralph Thanks Ralph. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 31, 2021 Report Share Posted May 31, 2021 1 hour ago, David Owen said: For Moss Europe, what are typical back order times and when it says "Available To Order" does that mean they are produced on single order? https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/pipe-water-return-stainless-steel-130039sst.html?assoc=115013 https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/thermo-switch-88c-on-79c-off-im50120.html?assoc=115017 Have you got someone who can weld? If so order the regular pipe. 130039SS. Plus the switch if you cannot get it in Canada. Then get a M22 nut welded to your new pipe to accept the switch. Switch specs. You are looking at Intermotor 50120 http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=152082 Cheers PeterW Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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