David Owen Posted June 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2021 14 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: 10-32 UNF https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=standard-triumph-hardware-catalogue&diagram=standard-triumph-hardware-catalogue-wing-nut-brass Standard Triumph Hardware see here. https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=standard-triumph-hardware-catalogue&diagram=catalogues 6 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said: I found it a struggle to get my hand in to tighten the 2 top wingnuts , so in the end I locked 2 ordinary nuts together on each of the top studs leaving about 3mm gap, so now I can just slide the top of the panel up into the slots and secure with the wingnuts on the bottom 2 studs. Ralph Thank you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2021 Questions: 1) Is there supposed to be some sort of rubber strip between the base of the gearbox tunnel and the floor? 2) I know Ralph was discussing this but I can't find where, are the seat adjustment levers on the seat rails supposed to be next to the gearbox or the door? My guess is the door. 3) There were a couple of comments made about the angle of my distributor cap. I believe I am to rotate it counter clockwise 1 increment. This is getting into stuff I know less than zero about how to set, although I get the basics what is supposed to happen. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted June 7, 2021 Report Share Posted June 7, 2021 1) No, use non setting mastic 2) The door side 3) Angle is not normal, but to correct it would require pulling out the distributor & oil pump drive gear, & moving it round a tooth or two (in an anticlockwise direction). I would leave it where it is if the car is running OK, & timing is correct. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2021 2 minutes ago, Lebro said: 1) No, use non setting mastic 2) The door side 3) Angle is not normal, but to correct it would require pulling out the distributor & oil pump drive gear, & moving it round a tooth or two (in an anticlockwise direction). I would leave it where it is if the car is running OK, & timing is correct. Bob. Thank you. On all counts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted June 7, 2021 Report Share Posted June 7, 2021 I did get some self adhesive thin rubber strip which I used on my gearbox cover, about 1/8" thick, but it does not take up all the imperfections in the floor and tunnel , though it is less messy to remove. May not be water tight if driven through fords or deep puddles, or even in heavy rain, but I do not intend doing the former, and if caught out in the latter I may have to dry the carpets, but will cross that bridge when I get there. Ralph. PS, I`m with Bob here regarding the dizzy, leave well alone if it is running OK. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2021 25 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said: I did get some self adhesive thin rubber strip which I used on my gearbox cover, about 1/8" thick, but it does not take up all the imperfections in the floor and tunnel , though it is less messy to remove. May not be water tight if driven through fords or deep puddles, or even in heavy rain, but I do not intend doing the former, and if caught out in the latter I may have to dry the carpets, but will cross that bridge when I get there. Ralph. PS, I`m with Bob here regarding the dizzy, leave well alone if it is running OK. Thanks Ralph. I've learned that lesson! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted June 8, 2021 Report Share Posted June 8, 2021 For gearbox cover seal I used draught excluder, similar to the picture. Self adhesive and deep enough to fill in inconsistencies in the surfaces. Far less messy than mastic. I’m sure you could get something similar in Canada (unless you don’t have draughts that need excluding in Ontario.) Charlie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2021 9 hours ago, Charlie D said: For gearbox cover seal I used draught excluder, similar to the picture. Self adhesive and deep enough to fill in inconsistencies in the surfaces. Far less messy than mastic. I’m sure you could get something similar in Canada (unless you don’t have draughts that need excluding in Ontario.) Charlie Thanks Charlie. I like simple and effective. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2021 The good news: I have a functional and accurate fuel gauge thanks to Le Broq Speed Sports I replaced the solenoid because the other one used to smoke when I started the car and I guessed that wasn't normal The bad news: The PO dropped by and gave me this: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 Overheated this aft for the first time ever. Either the fan is set up incorrectly or the deflector.....which looks OK. Could be the thermostat as well. Anything else I should check? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted June 10, 2021 Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 David did it over heat and boil water out over the road or just get hotter than usual on the gauge. ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 15 minutes ago, Hamish said: David did it over heat and boil water out over the road or just get hotter than usual on the gauge. ? Boiled over. Short drives because the gauge isn't working and I pushed it a little too far this aft. Spewing everywhere....out of the relief hose by the rad cap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 Question: Are the blocks for the side curtain brackets already installed in these doors? I think they are!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2021 19 hours ago, David Owen said: Boiled over. Short drives because the gauge isn't working and I pushed it a little too far this aft. Spewing everywhere....out of the relief hose by the rad cap. Two problems. First the car wasn't warming up properly because this is what I replaced: The fan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 11, 2021 Report Share Posted June 11, 2021 19 hours ago, David Owen said: Question: Are the blocks for the side curtain brackets already installed in these doors? I think they are!! Good Game, Good Game! LH door is post TS 60000, (all steel frame) RH door is pre TS 60000, (steel with wood upper frame) That is not an issue. Yes the wood blocks in the side curtain bracket areas look like they are in place in both doors, ready to accept wood screws. When fitting the side curtain mounting brackets to the doors - CHECK THE SCREW LENGTH!!! This issue I blame on metricated lengths of screws. You would not be the first to use a screw too long that puts a nice pimple on the outside panel......I clipped the points off the metric length screws with a pair of sturdy side cutters. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted June 12, 2021 Report Share Posted June 12, 2021 On 6/10/2021 at 8:40 PM, David Owen said: 14 hours ago, David Owen said: Two problems. First the car wasn't warming up properly because this is what I replaced: The fan. Overheated this aft for the first time ever. Either the fan is set up incorrectly or the deflector.....which looks OK. Could be the thermostat as well. Anything else I should check Tells me the previous owner had been suffering overheating. Did you replace the thermostat with the original bellows type or the more easily available wax pellet type, if the latter you need a restrictor in the by pass hose. Is the electric fan running the right way? Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2021 8 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said: Tells me the previous owner had been suffering overheating. Did you replace the thermostat with the original bellows type or the more easily available wax pellet type, if the latter you need a restrictor in the by pass hose. Is the electric fan running the right way? Ralph I replaced it with the thermostat I had lying around. I'll have to check that as I had no idea there were variations. The fan is now running the right way. What. An. Idiot! I honestly thought it was pulling through the rad. But it wasn't. Thanks Ralph, much appreciated. Especially the door info. I will have to look out for a post 60000 right hand door. But as you said, not urgent. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2021 (edited) 23 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Good Game, Good Game! LH door is post TS 60000, (all steel frame) RH door is pre TS 60000, (steel with wood upper frame) That is not an issue. Yes the wood blocks in the side curtain bracket areas look like they are in place in both doors, ready to accept wood screws. When fitting the side curtain mounting brackets to the doors - CHECK THE SCREW LENGTH!!! This issue I blame on metricated lengths of screws. You would not be the first to use a screw too long that puts a nice pimple on the outside panel......I clipped the points off the metric length screws with a pair of sturdy side cutters. Cheers Peter W Thanks Peter for the door info. Edited June 12, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2021 Just went for an hour long test drive and I can't get the smile off my face. Thank you very much everyone for all your help. Still lots to do but that'll happen. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 12, 2021 Report Share Posted June 12, 2021 21 minutes ago, David Owen said: Thanks Peter for the door info. The inside door trim boards are different shapes. The lower rear corner is square on the early door and rounded on the late door. I have a pair of late trim boards with rounded corners somewhere and a pair of black pockets. I was going to do my own trim once but ended up getting a kit from Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2021 Pretty sure my starter just gave up the ghost. What's the best way to test it and the extra one that came with the car? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted June 16, 2021 Report Share Posted June 16, 2021 What sort of starter is it David? An original or one of the modern geared ones? What was the symptom of failure? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 16, 2021 Report Share Posted June 16, 2021 Post us a picture of the one on the car and the spare you have. We should be able to identify what you have. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted June 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2021 3 hours ago, RobH said: What sort of starter is it David? An original or one of the modern geared ones? What was the symptom of failure? 2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Post us a picture of the one on the car and the spare you have. We should be able to identify what you have. Peter W Thank you both, I will get the pictures later this evening. Rob there is just a click when I push the starter, the battery is fully charged and I just replaced the solenoid. It was doing this intermittently before and after I replaced the solenoid. Now it's just clicking all the time. Photos to follow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 16, 2021 Report Share Posted June 16, 2021 Is there are obvious square sticking out the front of the starter? If so turn it 90 degrees with a spanner (wrench) That will present a different set of contacts of the commutator to the carbon brushes. If it now works a new set of carbon brushes, a commutator skim on a lathe and a new rear armature bearing are needed. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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