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Riders on the storm... My 1956 TR3


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If you can wrangle a length of cord or wire down and under the bottom (layshaft) gears and try lifting the gear cluster. Try at each end. If there is any up and down movement the shaft and bearings ha

Hi all, 15 years after buying my TR6, a spitfire, an abandoned TR6 project and many Land Rovers later, I'm finally back in a TR! A 1956 TR3 with a rather flashy colour scheme. A huge thanks

I just need to paint the chassis where its sitting on the lift pads but other than that...  Mission accomplished! 

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Thanks all! We're back in business! 

159636437468266.jpg 

I tightened the bolts with a 1/2 socket on a screwdriver extension to keep the force minimal between jiggling sessions 

I need to get the gearbox mounting back on now, I took it off to have more angle 

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6 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

Looks like I have to remove the lip on the bracket, the casing is sitting on it. And the 2 holes need another 5mm or so for the mount to sit flush with the box. 

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Turn the chassis plate upside down? So the return flange at the front is downwards.

It looks like there is a witness mark on the chassis plate from where the gearbox mount used to be fitted.

I notice it has been slotted for 4 synchro gearbox fitting.

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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8 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Turn the chassis plate upside down? So the return flange at the front is downwards.

It looks like there is a witness mark on the chassis plate from where the gearbox mount used to be fitted.

I notice it has been slotted for 4 synchro gearbox fitting.

Peter W

 

Thanks Peter. I'm the slotmeister and the one who flipped it.

Here's how it was originally 

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Quick update. I haven't had much free time these past few weeks but the box is in and everything is bolted in apart from the new gearbox mount which isn't the same thread as the old one. 

I've got loads of unc/unf fasteners knocking around but the new mount appears to be 7/16 unf which of course is the one size I don't have! I've ordered some this morning so should receive them early next week. 

I've tidied up the engine bay wiring and replaced the old fuel hoses. 

I will tackle the overdrive wiring next week. 

I also need to fit the spare tyre and boot seals. 

Hope everyone is well and enjoying summer motoring! 

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Did a trial fit for the wiring this evening. It's too hot to do anything during the day! 

Getting 12v at C2 with the switch both open and closed. 

I'll trouble shoot tomorrow but in the meantime I've got a couple of questions :

What's so special about this type of relay? Could it be replaced with a modern 4 pin one ? 

I've added an inline fuse in the feed to the solenoid. Is 3A too sensitive? 

And I've taken a feed from the 2nd fusebox to power the od (into C1 on the relay). It's a 5A fuse right now. Is this OK? 

Thanks! 

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1 hour ago, EliTR6 said:

I've added an inline fuse in the feed to the solenoid. Is 3A too sensitive? 

And I've taken a feed from the 2nd fusebox to power the od (into C1 on the relay). It's a 5A fuse right now. Is this OK? 

 

3A is OK for the relay coil power but 5A is way too small for the A-type OD solenoid power.  The pull-in current for the solenoid is around 17A so you need a  fuse rated at 17A continuous for that.  (The Lucas style fuse would be 17A continuous/35A blow)

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Thanks John and Rob 

I've realised that I put 2 fuses in the same circuit, fore and aft of the relay :wacko:

Any point protecting the feed to the switch side of the relay? 

I've only got glass fuses with modern ratings to hand so will try a 20A fuse. 

Getting there! 

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It was a duff relay! Stuck closed an sending 12v to the solenoid regardless of the ignition switch or overdrive switch being on or off. 

Replaced with a modern 4 pin relay and I can see the solenoid working on 2nd, 3rd and 4th, switches off when moved into neutral and doesn't work in 1st and reverse. 

Result! 

I'm still waiting for my gearbox mounting nuts before I can test it on the road but I'm feeling cautiously optimistic 

Edited by EliTR6
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Didn't drive the 3 but it started easily today. Still waiting for the 2 nuts to secure the mounting and then I'll be able to test it in gear. Box has taken 1.3L of oil so needs to be run a bit so I can fill least few cl. 

It's frustrating because of course I have to fit the tunnel before I fit the seats and I have to wait until I'm 100% certain everything is working as it should be. 

This is my project for tomorrow if I can find a spare hour or two. The spare wheel cover didn't have a seal when I bought the car but the gaps seem worse than before. I need to fix it somehow so I can at least drive the car. 

159700909851125.jpg

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4 hours ago, foster461 said:

You can bolt the drivers seat in just for a test drive before you commit and install the doghouse. It is just 6 bolts for the seat runner.

Stan

Just don`t wear anything that could get wrapped around the propshaft !!!!

I ran mine through all the gears and checked overdrive was working before I fitted the propshaft, that will prime the o/d pump etc and you will be able to finish putting in the oil.

Ralph

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Eli,

If the gearbox is slightly further back now don’t forget to check the slot in the cover for the speedo cable. You may need to make it a bit bigger. Easier to check now before the seats go in.

Charlie.

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These missing nuts for the gearbox mount - are they the ones for the studs and your original ones do not fit the new mount? 

Be fearful - the studs in the new mount could well be metric and the originals were imperial.

Trip to 'Speedy' or some other auto repair shop with the new mount perhaps?

Peter W

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6 hours ago, foster461 said:

You can bolt the drivers seat in just for a test drive before you commit and install the doghouse. It is just 6 bolts for the seat runner.

Stan

Only 4 for my corbeau seats but a nightmare to fit the rear ones! 

2 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

Just don`t wear anything that could get wrapped around the propshaft !!!!

I ran mine through all the gears and checked overdrive was working before I fitted the propshaft, that will prime the o/d pump etc and you will be able to finish putting in the oil.

Ralph

Cheers. I figured I could run it with the rear on axle stands before topping up the oil and testing it on the road 

 

1 hour ago, Charlie D said:

Eli,

If the gearbox is slightly further back now don’t forget to check the slot in the cover for the speedo cable. You may need to make it a bit bigger. Easier to check now before the seats go in.

Charlie.

Thanks. The corbeau bucket seats leave very little room so will definitely be the last bits I fit back in 

 

1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

These missing nuts for the gearbox mount - are they the ones for the studs and your original ones do not fit the new mount? 

Be fearful - the studs in the new mount could well be metric and the originals were imperial.

Trip to 'Speedy' or some other auto repair shop with the new mount perhaps?

Peter W

Good point! Although the parts diagram from the supplier states 7/16 unf 

I should have checked the nuts before fitting the mount. Prop is already bolted in too. Lesson learned 

At least metric nuts are easy to come by here! 

 

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23 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

Cheers. I figured I could run it with the rear on axle stands before topping up the oil and testing it on the road 

THat's what I did Eli when I refitted my gearbox after Pete Cox had given it the once over.  Enabled me to check the wiring for the OD solenoid was all correct and that everything was working as it should.

Rgds Ian

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7 hours ago, Ian Vincent said:

THat's what I did Eli when I refitted my gearbox after Pete Cox had given it the once over.  Enabled me to check the wiring for the OD solenoid was all correct and that everything was working as it should.

Rgds Ian

The test was successful! 

OD working, etc 

I now need to fit a seat, top up the oil and take it for a proper test run 

Ps: the gearbox mount nuts arrived. The 7/16 unf ones did the trick! 

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