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Riders on the storm... My 1956 TR3


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40 minutes ago, Hamish said:

Eli

Just for reference and as mentioned above this is my fork /shaft cross drilled and bolted done by Pete cox. 

169529DF-0754-4C7C-8CD4-F6DCF188A02C.jpeg

Thanks Hamish 

Your photo prompted me to dig a little deeper and I found this document 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5c6dec53b10f25d4edf0b3f7/t/5c6ef664fa0d600278466e1f/1550775909264/Clutch%2BShaft.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj_gOjiktDqAhVzA2MBHXzoACsQFjABegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw1eRdUillB5YDCUQ3A6LGrK&cshid=1594846942797

And my current mini pin assembly ;)

159484659925295.jpg

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If you can wrangle a length of cord or wire down and under the bottom (layshaft) gears and try lifting the gear cluster. Try at each end. If there is any up and down movement the shaft and bearings ha

Hi all, 15 years after buying my TR6, a spitfire, an abandoned TR6 project and many Land Rovers later, I'm finally back in a TR! A 1956 TR3 with a rather flashy colour scheme. A huge thanks

I just need to paint the chassis where its sitting on the lift pads but other than that...  Mission accomplished! 

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17 hours ago, John Morrison said:

No worries Eli,

this is how I do all that i'm involved with, using a 4mm roll pin.

John.1743512010_wiredoverdrive007.jpg.a61eae580123c23726ad5d7af31dcfa1.jpg

That's how I do it too John.

Peter W

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@ Eli, you told me that I don't come anymore on this forum : you are right mate, and this is for good reasons.

I'm no longer a TRR member, so can't even get access to "Alec's Inn", equivalent to the defunct ATB.

I can't even get access to the old posts where I was chatting with Badfrog, my soul mate, Alec, and SO MANY others nice chaps.....

Why would I spent time on a forum when my only contributions can be technical ?

 

Edited by Chris59
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12 hours ago, Chris59 said:

I'm no longer a TRR member, so can't even get access to "Alec's Inn", equivalent to the defunct ATB.

I can't even get access to the old posts where I was chatting with Badfrog, my soul mate, Alec, and SO MANY others nice chaps.....

Why would I spent time on a forum

Simple: because we miss you, Chris59.

Your views, and your affection for people like Badfrog and Alec Pringle, neither of whom I had the honour of knowing myself.

Someone gave you a zero, I give you a heart. So this shows we don't all think and feel alike. Please come back.

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Hi all 

Picking up my reconditioned gearbox on Wednesday! 

Should I reuse the carrier? It's got a bit of wear and there's a dent pushing out one of the edges. 

And the bearing? Everywhere was working fine 

I haven't checked the clutch plate as it should have only 8k on it.

159526821534042.jpg

Edited by EliTR6
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Quick update. I've picked up my recon a type box, the two bits of loom, longer speedo cable and new clutch TO bearing. I'm not going to touch the clutch plate. Hopefully I wont regret it! 

The new bearing is a bit beefier than the old one. I take it that they come prepacked with grease? 

Tomorrow is my only day off this week so I'll do what I can. I hope to have the 3 back on the road by next weekend. 

159569473531750.jpg

159569484215288.jpg 

159569487618041.jpg

15956949018519.jpg

I haven't smothered it on copaslip or refitted the pin yet. 

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2 hours ago, EliTR6 said:

Quick update. I've picked up my recon a type box, the two bits of loom, longer speedo cable and new clutch TO bearing. I'm not going to touch the clutch plate. Hopefully I wont regret it! 

The new bearing is a bit beefier than the old one. I take it that they come prepacked with grease? 

Tomorrow is my only day off this week so I'll do what I can. I hope to have the 3 back on the road by next weekend. 

159569473531750.jpg

159569484215288.jpg 

159569487618041.jpg

15956949018519.jpg

I haven't smothered it on copaslip or refitted the pin yet. 

 

STOP!

Looks like the release bearing is fitted back to front.

The flat ground front contacts the clutch cover 3 fingers

Bearing on left without carrier is for diaphragm clutch of TR 4A -6   Note it has a curved face to contact the clutch cover diaphragm multiple fingers. The carrier is the short one used on Spring clutch of TR2-4   The assembly is shewing flat ground face of release bearing that contacts the 3 fingers of TR2-4 Spring clutch.

Which clutch cover type do you have fitted?   Spring with 3 fingers or diaphragm

Cheers 

Peter W

image.jpeg

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Thanks chaps.

Only had 30min to move bike and gearboxes around and have a play with fitting the carrier. Didn't look at the manual or my photos of the carrier on the old box. Just a bit of prep for tomorrow. I've turned it around now. 

No harm, no foul ;)

15957133066416.jpg

I've got a spring type clutch

159571366764087.jpg 

I'll double check the bearing face diameter tomorrow. The new one feels larger 

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This is the old bearing when I removed the old gearbox.

I don't remember playing with the bearing. Was it the wrong way round? And if so, how come the clutch, etc still worked? 

159571476087720.jpg

 

Some helpful photos on this thread here if any other noobs are looking 

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/40715-installing-the-clutch-release-bearingsleeve-to-gearbox/#comment-314043

Edited by EliTR6
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2 hours ago, Lebro said:

Yes, it was the wrong way round, sorry we missed that when you posted that photo earlier might have saved you some stress !

Bob.

:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

159575770065738.jpg

159575780638277.jpg

So copaslip between the carrier and the input shaft and between the carrier and the bearing inner race? 

It just slides on, no need to use a press or hammer and drift, right? 

I'm swapping in the longer studs this morning. My neck isn't happy

159575794090937.jpg

Thanks for the help everyone! 

 

 

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A few questions. Item number 1 on the below photo was a bolt. Shouldn't it be a 3rd stud? Item 2 should be a bolt, as should item 4. Item 3 feels like a broken stud, not a dowel. 

Do I have this right? 

159575973733919.jpg

Edited by EliTR6
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8 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

A few questions. Item number 1 on the below photo was a bolt. Shouldn't it be a 3rd stud? Item 2 should be a bolt, as should item 4. Item 3 feels like a broken stud, not a dowel. 

Do I have this right? 

159575973733919.jpg

 

1 should be a stud

2, 3 & 4 should be bolts

2 dowels is correct.

Bob

 

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14 minutes ago, EliTR6 said:

A few questions. Item number 1 on the below photo was a bolt. Shouldn't it be a 3rd stud? Item 2 should be a bolt, as should item 4. Item 3 feels like a broken stud, not a dowel. 

Do I have this right? 

159575973733919.jpg

There should be 3 studs across the top and in your picture 2/3/4 should be bolts.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
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15 minutes ago, Lebro said:

1 should be a stud

2, 3 & 4 should be bolts

2 dowels is correct.

Bob

 

 

14 minutes ago, stuart said:

There should be 3 studs across the top so 1 is a bolt too and in your picture 2/3/4 should be bolts.There are only 2 studs

Stuart.

That was quick! Thanks 

Looks like 2/3 and 4 are stuck fast. I'll get the extractor out this afternoon. 

If I get them out OK, I'll elongate these holes by 10mm towards the rear. Do you bend the flange with the mounting in situ or do you remove it? 

159576166224502.jpg

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1 hour ago, EliTR6 said:

:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

159575770065738.jpg

159575780638277.jpg

So copaslip between the carrier and the input shaft and between the carrier and the bearing inner race? 

It just slides on, no need to use a press or hammer and drift, right? 

I'm swapping in the longer studs this morning. My neck isn't happy

159575794090937.jpg

Thanks for the help everyone! 

 

 

Bearing should be press fit to the carrier.  The bearing goes to the shoulder of the carrier.

Peter W

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1 hour ago, EliTR6 said:

 

That was quick! Thanks 

Looks like 2/3 and 4 are stuck fast. I'll get the extractor out this afternoon. 

If I get them out OK, I'll elongate these holes by 10mm towards the rear. Do you bend the flange with the mounting in situ or do you remove it? 

159576166224502.jpg

Try fitting the plate upside down.  You may have to relieve the flange to clear the exhaust.

Bob has a great photo of how to fix the exhaust at this position using the TR 4 mounting system.   I have used the same method.

You do not have a mounting system for the exhaust visible here.   The stud had a rubber strap holding a metal bar originally and it always allowed the exhaust to hit the chassis 

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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1 hour ago, Lebro said:

721298488_Exhaustbrkt2.jpg.e16feac1db8011e402583b72513f8f60.jpg   61256689_Gboxsupport.jpg.597f47d6245db0507614304bfaee3645.jpg

You won't need that stud on the mounting the exhaust clamp hangs from the gearbox side of the rubber mount.

Bob.

473873-Large.jpg

Is this the part Bob? 

159577265371480.jpg

I admit defeat for today. I'm going to order some quality extractors. I couldn't find my old ones but they were cheap and cheerful anyway. I've sprayed all 3 with freeze and release (whilst covering the clutch assembly). 

What a pig of a job 

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FWIW you may need to grind a bit off that exhaust mount depending on the exhaust you have as they sometimes need to be angled more towards the centre line which means it just fouls on the edge of the gearbox mounting.

Stuart.

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2 hours ago, EliTR6 said:

473873-Large.jpg

Is this the part Bob? 

159577265371480.jpg

I admit defeat for today. I'm going to order some quality extractors. I couldn't find my old ones but they were cheap and cheerful anyway. I've sprayed all 3 with freeze and release (whilst covering the clutch assembly). 

What a pig of a job 

You may not want to read this...

Could be easier to get that broken stud out with the flywheel removed. Refit using loctite on the bolts if you cannot rescue the lock tabs.   More room to get the Mole Grips/ Vise Grips in there and lock on with the flywheel removed.  The thread in the block for those studs/bolts is 5/16" UNC  Worth clearing all the threads before winding the bolts in.

Cheers

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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23 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

You may not want to read this...

Could be easier to get that broken stud out with the flywheel removed. Refit using loctite on the bolts if you cannot rescue the lock tabs.   More room to get the Mole Grips/ Vise Grips in there and lock on with the flywheel removed.  The thread in the block for those studs/bolts is 5/16" UNC  Worth clearing all the threads before winding the bolts in.

Cheers

Peter W

https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/all-hand-tools/laser-impact-stud-extractor-1%2F2in-drive-121932.html

I'm having this bad boy delivered tomorrow. Hopefully it will do the trick! 

And I'll order a unf/unc tap and die set to clean up the threads 

Edited by EliTR6
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