RogerH Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 fingers crossed. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marko Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 Rod1883 - You have a "Friend" with an MGB - tut tut Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 Latest: cleaned all the black gunk stuff off, tried pushing piston back, it would but came straight back out a little. The piston seal was also unseated in the gap of the retainer, at this point I decided to replace the calliper. I popped over to Jigsaw and bought a recon original calliper, I have just fitted this and all seems well with the OS. I then checked the NS again having cleaned the same gunk off the pads there, unfortunately this seems to be binding as well, I'm picking up a recon original calliper for this side in the morning, hopefully the issue will be resolved then....or not If the ones you are replacing were new in 2017 and from a reptable supplier then please let them know. Most tr specialists are a reputable company, and friendly!, so i’m sure they’d like to know they sold dodgy product. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SeanF Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 Swollen internals won't let the fluid pressure release. Change all the hoses. Or MC sticking open as per Steve's suggestion? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 Don't panic, it sounds like the car was well maintained over the years (check the history file) despite the incredibly low mileage, and it wouldn't have passed a MOT if it wasn't - so don't go knee-jerking and ripping out stuff like rubbers, pipes and steering and gutting the engine bay unless it's absolutely necessary, and it sounds like it isn't. Photos would help. Cheers Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MostEasterlySteve Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 Rod1883 - You have a "Friend" with an MGB - tut tut Worse still, he admits it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MostEasterlySteve Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 Don't panic, it sounds like the car was well maintained over the years (check the history file) despite the incredibly low mileage, and it wouldn't have passed a MOT if it wasn't - so don't go knee-jerking and ripping out stuff like rubbers, pipes and steering and gutting the engine bay unless it's absolutely necessary, and it sounds like it isn't. I'm strongly inclined to agree with this. Just see how it goes over the next few weeks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted March 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 If I knew how to post photo's I would, I was one of those let down by the Photobucket t&c change and don't use any other hosting site yet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SeanF Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 Click on "more reply options" Below the text box you will find "Attach Files". Browse for the picture file you want and then click on "attach this file" and you will have attached your picture. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ShaunC Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 One other possible cause Where the servo pushrod pushes on the master cylinder piston there needs to be a small clearance, specified in the manual. If this clearance is incorrect then the mc can lock on. Its an easy check and worth the 10 mins, especially as you have new callipers and hoses! Steve Tipping valve! This is where i'd look first. A new master cylinder means you must confirm this clearance (master cylinder to servo pushrod, as Steve has suggested). If it happens again and you are out, and the brakes lock on, and it is incorrect clearance.....you can confirm this theory by slacking off the retaining nuts which hold the master cylinder to the servo, then pull it forward which should release the tipping valve within the master cylinder enabling the brake fluid to return to the reservoir and the brakes will release. Then waft away at your brakes, but don't put your tongue on the discs or drums! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KiwiTR6 Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 Tipping valve! This is where i'd look first. A new master cylinder means you must confirm this clearance (master cylinder to servo pushrod, as Steve has suggested). If it happens again and you are out, and the brakes lock on, and it is incorrect clearance.....you can confirm this theory by slacking off the retaining nuts which hold the master cylinder to the servo, then pull it forward which should release the tipping valve within the master cylinder enabling the brake fluid to return to the reservoir and the brakes will release. Then waft away at your brakes, but don't put your tongue on the discs or drums! +1 Exactly the problem I had with a resleeved master cylinder on my car as suggested by someone no longer posting on this site In my case it was the sleeve that was causing the problem because it hadn't been opened up enough to match the original valve port. Gavin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted March 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 I checked the servo rod clearance this morning, if anything it was slightly proud! I managed to wind it back and now have 0.012 clearance, this looks like it could well be the original servo, replacement might be in order here I suspect. Anyway, I have put the car back together, now have recon original callipers on both sides, fingers crossed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted March 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 (edited) All back together, few miles down the road, brakes locked on. I backed off the m/cyl nuts as suggested by ShaunC and braking returned, drove home carefully, rechecked servo rod clearance, I can just get a 15 thou feeler gauge in there, that is within spec' I believe. Both brake callipers were smoking this time, so at least I now have two sides acting at once, so some improvement, I am suspecting the m/cyl and am waiting for TRGB to return my call. Edited March 16, 2018 by iani Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted March 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 I can now post pics, here is the gunk I found on the original brake pads: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JochemsTR Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 (edited) someone was very generous on greasing the pads.... Ian, you can install anti-squeal shims from ATE or TRW...no need for further grease on the back side...just little copper paste on the pads sliding into the calipers. Standard ATE pads are sufficient. Regards Jochem Edited March 16, 2018 by JochemsTR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 I can now post pics, here is the gunk I found on the original brake pads: IMG_0919.JPGIMG_0920.JPG Is that cooked copper grease? As I have seen something like that before! Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 (edited) I checked the servo rod clearance this morning, if anything it was slightly proud! I managed to wind it back and now have 0.012 clearance, this looks like it could well be the original servo, replacement might be in order here I suspect. Anyway, I have put the car back together, now have recon original callipers on both sides, fingers crossed. No, no, no, no - repros are crap, if it is your original servo then get it reconditioned (and the MC while your'e at it) by Past Parts - http://www.pastparts.co.uk/ - they are VERY good. Cheers Andrew Edited March 16, 2018 by Andrew Smith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 TRW Master cylinder by any chance? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pinky Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 Well I can speak from experience on this one, I got the master cylinder rebuilt, It was nothing bur trouble, the tiping valve jambs then locks up the brakes, the way you described it right, down to the mileage the same, I boughtj new master cylinder two new front calipers from he tr shop London on stuarts advise, problem solved, I had a real lot of shit with this problem thank god I had silicon otherwise the paint would be of every were pink Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Den T Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 Use search will tell you all,they are now sorted due to work and time by others at the time Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pogo Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 No, no, no, no - repros are crap, if it is your original servo then get it reconditioned (and the MC while your'e at it) by Past Parts - http://www.pastparts.co.uk/ - the are VERY good. Cheers Andrew I agree with Andrew on this. I replaced my original (that had packed up) with a new one and it was worse than the one that wasn't working. Fortunately the original hadn't been scrapped so I got it refurbished and it's now great. Not sure who did it - TR Trader had it done for me. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 (edited) PM Edited March 16, 2018 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted March 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 TRW Master cylinder by any chance? Stuart. Certainly is, TRGB were adamant that the previous issues had been resolved with these units, they're happy to exchange it for another one but I don't want to waste more time on another TRW unit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted March 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 Is that cooked copper grease? As I have seen something like that before! Bruce. I could be way off the mark, however, it seems similar to the underseal that was put in the wheel arches at the same time as the new brakes were fitted. There is no sign of it on the rest of the suspension/brakes so it couldn't be accidental transfer, I suspect they used "something" to hold the anti squeal shims on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 Don't know what's available in the UK but I use Dynagrip on the brake pads of all my vehicles - https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwif16766PHZAhXIu7wKHW4xBXoQFggnMAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.dynagrip.biz%2Fdisc-brake&usg=AOvVaw3P65zL4NZY6MQKqjjWGpF3 I've has too many problems with brake squeal without it especially the TR6 (even with the anti squeal shims fitted) and the SLK. The squeal was especially pronounced with Red Stuff pads . If the PO was caught with squealing brakes he might have tried anything to stop it , silicon comes to mind. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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