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One week into ownership and on recovery truck already


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Latest: cleaned all the black gunk stuff off, tried pushing piston back, it would but came straight back out a little. The piston seal was also unseated in the gap of the retainer, at this point I decided to replace the calliper. I popped over to Jigsaw and bought a recon original calliper, I have just fitted this and all seems well with the OS. I then checked the NS again having cleaned the same gunk off the pads there, unfortunately this seems to be binding as well, I'm picking up a recon original calliper for this side in the morning, hopefully the issue will be resolved then....or not <_<

If the ones you are replacing were new in 2017 and from a reptable supplier then please let them know.

 

Most tr specialists are a reputable company, and friendly!, so i’m sure they’d like to know they sold dodgy product.

 

Steve

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Don't panic, it sounds like the car was well maintained over the years (check the history file) despite the incredibly low mileage, and it wouldn't have passed a MOT if it wasn't - so don't go knee-jerking and ripping out stuff like rubbers, pipes and steering and gutting the engine bay unless it's absolutely necessary, and it sounds like it isn't.

 

Photos would help.

 

Cheers

Andrew

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Don't panic, it sounds like the car was well maintained over the years (check the history file) despite the incredibly low mileage, and it wouldn't have passed a MOT if it wasn't - so don't go knee-jerking and ripping out stuff like rubbers, pipes and steering and gutting the engine bay unless it's absolutely necessary, and it sounds like it isn't.

 

 

I'm strongly inclined to agree with this. Just see how it goes over the next few weeks.

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If I knew how to post photo's I would, I was one of those let down by the Photobucket t&c change and don't use any other hosting site yet.

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Click on "more reply options" Below the text box you will find "Attach Files". Browse for the picture file you want and then click on "attach this file" and you will have attached your picture.

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One other possible cause

 

Where the servo pushrod pushes on the master cylinder piston there needs to be a small clearance, specified in the manual.

 

If this clearance is incorrect then the mc can lock on.

 

Its an easy check and worth the 10 mins, especially as you have new callipers and hoses!

 

Steve

Tipping valve!

 

This is where i'd look first. A new master cylinder means you must confirm this clearance (master cylinder to servo pushrod, as Steve has suggested).

 

If it happens again and you are out, and the brakes lock on, and it is incorrect clearance.....you can confirm this theory by slacking off the retaining nuts which hold the master cylinder to the servo, then pull it forward which should release the tipping valve within the master cylinder enabling the brake fluid to return to the reservoir and the brakes will release. Then waft away at your brakes, but don't put your tongue on the discs or drums! :D

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Tipping valve!

 

This is where i'd look first. A new master cylinder means you must confirm this clearance (master cylinder to servo pushrod, as Steve has suggested).

 

If it happens again and you are out, and the brakes lock on, and it is incorrect clearance.....you can confirm this theory by slacking off the retaining nuts which hold the master cylinder to the servo, then pull it forward which should release the tipping valve within the master cylinder enabling the brake fluid to return to the reservoir and the brakes will release. Then waft away at your brakes, but don't put your tongue on the discs or drums! :D

 

+1

 

Exactly the problem I had with a resleeved master cylinder on my car as suggested by someone no longer posting on this site ;) In my case it was the sleeve that was causing the problem because it hadn't been opened up enough to match the original valve port.

 

Gavin

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I checked the servo rod clearance this morning, if anything it was slightly proud! I managed to wind it back and now have 0.012 clearance, this looks like it could well be the original servo, replacement might be in order here I suspect. Anyway, I have put the car back together, now have recon original callipers on both sides, fingers crossed.

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All back together, few miles down the road, brakes locked on. I backed off the m/cyl nuts as suggested by ShaunC and braking returned, drove home carefully, rechecked servo rod clearance, I can just get a 15 thou feeler gauge in there, that is within spec' I believe. Both brake callipers were smoking this time, so at least I now have two sides acting at once, so some improvement, I am suspecting the m/cyl and am waiting for TRGB to return my call.

Edited by iani
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I can now post pics, here is the gunk I found on the original brake pads:

 

post-6710-0-67961400-1521208931_thumb.jpgpost-6710-0-07349900-1521208947_thumb.jpg

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someone was very generous on greasing the pads....

 

Ian, you can install anti-squeal shims from ATE or TRW...no need for further grease on the back side...just little copper paste on the pads sliding into the calipers.

Standard ATE pads are sufficient.

Regards Jochem

Edited by JochemsTR
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I checked the servo rod clearance this morning, if anything it was slightly proud! I managed to wind it back and now have 0.012 clearance, this looks like it could well be the original servo, replacement might be in order here I suspect. Anyway, I have put the car back together, now have recon original callipers on both sides, fingers crossed.

 

No, no, no, no - repros are crap, if it is your original servo then get it reconditioned (and the MC while your'e at it) by Past Parts - http://www.pastparts.co.uk/ - they are VERY good.

 

Cheers

Andrew

Edited by Andrew Smith
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Well I can speak from experience on this one, I got the master cylinder rebuilt,

It was nothing bur trouble, the tiping valve jambs then locks up the brakes, the way you described it right, down to the mileage the same, I boughtj new master cylinder two new front calipers from he tr shop London on stuarts advise, problem solved,

 

I had a real lot of shit with this problem thank god I had silicon otherwise the paint would be of every were

 

pink

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No, no, no, no - repros are crap, if it is your original servo then get it reconditioned (and the MC while your'e at it) by Past Parts - http://www.pastparts.co.uk/ - the are VERY good.

 

Cheers

Andrew

 

I agree with Andrew on this. I replaced my original (that had packed up) with a new one and it was worse than the one that wasn't working. Fortunately the original hadn't been scrapped so I got it refurbished and it's now great.

Not sure who did it - TR Trader had it done for me.

 

Roger

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TRW Master cylinder by any chance?

Stuart.

Certainly is, TRGB were adamant that the previous issues had been resolved with these units, they're happy to exchange it for another one but I don't want to waste more time on another TRW unit.

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Is that cooked copper grease? As I have seen something like that before!

 

Bruce.

I could be way off the mark, however, it seems similar to the underseal that was put in the wheel arches at the same time as the new brakes were fitted. There is no sign of it on the rest of the suspension/brakes so it couldn't be accidental transfer, I suspect they used "something" to hold the anti squeal shims on.

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Don't know what's available in the UK but I use Dynagrip on the brake pads of all my vehicles - https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwif16766PHZAhXIu7wKHW4xBXoQFggnMAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.dynagrip.biz%2Fdisc-brake&usg=AOvVaw3P65zL4NZY6MQKqjjWGpF3

 

I've has too many problems with brake squeal without it especially the TR6 (even with the anti squeal shims fitted) and the SLK. The squeal was especially pronounced with Red Stuff pads .

 

If the PO was caught with squealing brakes he might have tried anything to stop it , silicon comes to mind.

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