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Modified and fabricated tools - Show & Tell


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A lightweight drain plug remover which lives in the travelling tool kit. 

Well, the "special" tool, even with a torch attached, failed to locate the lamp. It was excellent at recovering various small logs, and large stones though. Luckily I had taken along a Plan B - a

Hi, this was one of the first tools I made for my TR4A about 10 years ago, very durable and still in use... Shure someone else has one like this in use and posted it already.

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Hi,

today I had to lift my TR and did it with the scissors jack out from the boot.

I modified it years ago with a softer fir wood from below to avoid slipping on asphalt ground

and a harder multilayer beech wood on top to base the force on a wider area and avoid dents in the TRs frame.

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To lift the rear wheel not with the frame I made a wooden block, exactly fitting under the IRS trailing arm, this works lovely.

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Something like this should also be able on the front....?

Ciao, Marco

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  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

The handbrake assembly (used on TR4A(IRS)-TR6 cars) has to be removed whenever the gearbox tunnel cover is removed (old 1 piece type) and replacing the handbrake lever is always frustrating on reassembly. This is because the spring loaded rod comes out and is not easily determined how to get it back together. The pictures in manuals and catalogs aren't much help. Anyway, an excellent detailed picture and description is shown in a Buckeye article on "Rebuilding the handbrake assembly". The problem of difficulty when reassembly is caused by the pawl moving far enough to allow the allow the spring loaded rod to slip off. The factory addressed the problem on later cars (a 1976 assembly is shown) by  dimpling the lever to restrict the pawl movement). The author of the article duplicated the effect by drilling&tapping a hole for an 8-32 screw. This is shown on page 2/4 of the attached article. The location of the hole is .5" from the center of the pawl pivot pin and .5" from the bottom surface of the lever. This eliminates one source of frustration when replacing the assembly. It also helps to chamber the fulcrum bolt to get it through the 2 nylon bushings.  https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5c6dec53b10f25d4edf0b3f7/t/5d0192d28ed02e0001593962/1560384211953/Overhauling+Handbrake.pdf 

Berry

Edited by dingle
omission
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Gear box filler plug tool:

I wanted to check oil levels in GB and differential. Both have a 7/16” square headed plug. Because they are made from relatively soft material, I preferred not to use an open ended spanner.

I searched the WWW but those square headed spanners are often very expensive, and if they are of a poor quality…..then it’s back to square..one.

So I fabricated one from an M10 nut. The advantage over a 7/16” UNF nut (which would seem the obvious choice) is the larger spanner width of M10 nut, so more “meat” is left.

I first used a course and then a fine file, it took less than 1/2 hr to make one.

The plug is slightly tapered, so one side is a bit larger: I worked to 10.2 square one side and 10.5 mm square on the other side.

Waldi

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Hi Marco,

no, it will go in the boot with my other tools, but see little issue if you want to weld it. In that case it is better to use a lower quality nut, with less Cr, Mo, V to reduce risk of weld-cracking (yes, I’ve seen that on 8.8/Grade 8 bolts/nuts).

Gruesse,
Waldi

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If you check e bay there are often some of these quality drives at 7/16"th size come up for sale.

item number 145074371359

I think I paid £12 for mine.

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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I use an allen head plug on the diff plug along with a 2' extension. It requires removing the rt rear wheel, but eliminates crawling under car . I use a hex head plug on the gearbox and a hole in the tunnel cover for access. I am in the process of cutting a flap in the tunnel carpet for easier access to the plug. All of the plugs are 3/8" tapered pipe, which is very common in the states.

Berry

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  • 3 weeks later...

8f04aaef-78a6-48f3-9425-06a3b3599f6f.thumb.jpg.8a95b48e2fcf559e83bcdc92524c429d.jpg 2461f2d2-5f77-4548-91f4-51a05e165601.thumb.jpg.bfb59ba6d6f06f439115726e0a6ae89e.jpg 913f9f36-6370-486c-9c81-0fe26ee0696f.thumb.jpg.d4669d3f31d488ce67bde32e519bec1f.jpg  click on to enlarge

I have two of the marine portable petrol tanks shown above. the screw on cap on both of them have a rubber washer inside to seal on to the tank when screwed on.  Over time these washer deteriorate. Can you buy replacement ones  - no. I have searched, & enquired every where I can think of, but nothing is available.

You can buy the whole cap, but at not much less than £20 !  So, I decided to start making them. The tool above was turned up on my lathe, & when pressed into appropriate rubber sheet it makes two circular cuts, producing the required seal. Tests on some scrap rubber I had were good, so have now ordered a largish sheet of 3mm thick Viton which should do the trick.

Bob

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27 minutes ago, Lebro said:

...when pressed into appropriate rubber sheet it makes two circular cuts...

Bob,

What do you use under the rubber sheet to stop the press tool being blunted once it has gone through.

Whenever I use hole punches I'm never sure of the best material to put underneath to get a clean cut.

Charlie

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A flat 3/4" thick piece of plastic, possibly nylon. & a flat solid surface under that.

With normal hole punches I normally punch through onto an Aluminium block

Bob

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Bob,

Your enterprise is commendable, but O-rings are available in almost unlimited sizes, and probably in Viton too.   Would one of those fit your tank cap?

John

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2 hours ago, john.r.davies said:

Bob,

Your enterprise is commendable, but O-rings are available in almost unlimited sizes, and probably in Viton too.   Would one of those fit your tank cap?

John

No, 'O' rings don't work, as part of the seal area on the tank is very thin (where the coarse thread runs out) and 'O' rings just slip past it. I have tried looking for square section or rectangular section ones, my requirement is not a standard size apparently, so you are into minimum order quantities of 1000's !

Bob

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5 hours ago, Lebro said:

A flat 3/4" thick piece of plastic, possibly nylon. & a flat solid surface under that.

With normal hole punches I normally punch through onto an Aluminium block

Bob

I have a flat block of lead that I use to punch cut onto

When the surface gets too many cuts in it I sit it back in the sauce pan it was originally smelted in and just pass the blow torch over it to re melt smooth

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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7 hours ago, Charlie D said:

 

Bob,

What do you use under the rubber sheet to stop the press tool being blunted once it has gone through.

Whenever I use hole punches I'm never sure of the best material to put underneath to get a clean cut.

Charlie

I use a cardboard from college blocks and my arbor press, never a press tool was damaged

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Todays task was to make a set of tools to insert the Dzus fasteners into the bonnet of a TR2-3A

These were for a member of our local group, as I fitted mine 10 years ago using what ever came to hand !

 20230731_152145.thumb.jpg.67895595fbb9721c2d838909f4e5ff0a.jpg  20230731_152216.thumb.jpg.fb93f5b2a4da6da4c7442c5cd9151e0f.jpg  20230731_152237.thumb.jpg.1266f60d70dd01070042cd120b17eb9a.jpg  20230731_150938.thumb.jpg.dd0dc7d18c409ec8108e773e7844b7fd.jpgClick on to enlarge

20230731_150959.thumb.jpg.4bdb43930710ecf05f64d08818cd45a6.jpg  20230731_151015.thumb.jpg.83e5859b20987dc34f2b8321a909ab0c.jpg

Bob

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15 minutes ago, Lebro said:

Todays task was to make a set of tools to insert the Dzus fasteners into the bonnet of a TR2-3A

These were for a member of our local group, as I fitted mine 10 years ago using what ever came to hand !

 20230731_152145.thumb.jpg.67895595fbb9721c2d838909f4e5ff0a.jpg  20230731_152216.thumb.jpg.fb93f5b2a4da6da4c7442c5cd9151e0f.jpg  20230731_152237.thumb.jpg.1266f60d70dd01070042cd120b17eb9a.jpg  20230731_150938.thumb.jpg.dd0dc7d18c409ec8108e773e7844b7fd.jpgClick on to enlarge

20230731_150959.thumb.jpg.4bdb43930710ecf05f64d08818cd45a6.jpg  20230731_151015.thumb.jpg.83e5859b20987dc34f2b8321a909ab0c.jpg

Bob

Very useful Bob well done. You should hire them out now!

Stuart.

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