simonjrwinter Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 I want to remove my diff. However I only have a single garage at the moment which means there is almost no space either side to withdraw driveshafts. I presume I can just disconnect the driveshafts and leave them in place while I remove the diff? Is it a 1 man (and jack) job? Simon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 (edited) I've done it that way. Edited October 26, 2015 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike barrett Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Just done mine the same way. but I spent a bit of time making a wooden support for the diff that fitted onto the jack, otherwise it will fall off the jack and will be even more difficult to refit. Have fun. mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Blue cedar Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 I guess if you find the half shafts restrict removal, you could always pull them away from the trailing arms as far as the garage walls allow. Make sure the car is jacked up as high as safely possible, as you'll appreciate all the room. Regards Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Bracher Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Simon, get a buddy in! Once the drive shafts and prop shaft are disconnected, there is nothing stopping the diff coming out. However, it is VERY heavy, and will need to be 'manouvered' off (and back onto, later) the mounts. I made up a cradle for refitting to support/boost the diff to fitting height, using a wooden base 'frame' and some builders 'spray in' expanding foam, then strap down with webbing. The diff is nose heavy, so will tip forward off the trolley jack, or take the jack with it! (guess how I know!!) Without a buddy, a double hernia beckons!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ijonsson Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 This is my solution http://www.ijonsson.se/triumph/photo_diary.php?day=drivlina&folder=drivlina&id=IMG_1252 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Willem Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 It is heavy, but it can be done without any extra lifting equipment when you support your car thoroughly not too high from the ground. I lowered mine on my chest and installed it the same way pushing it up Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dingle Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 I can remember removing&replacing the diff without a jack or cradle about 25 years ago, but now at the age 71, I am smarter and lazier. The first experience inspired me to built a dedicated lift on casters with a scissor jack and it has been used many times. Removing part of the exhaust system and 12 bolts on the drive flanges to get the diff out is still not one of my favorite jobs. Berry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Removing the diff is a simple three-step process: 1. Remove the body and exhaust. 2. Attach sling to diff and skyhook. 3. Unbolt and lower diff. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HarveyCoppock Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 Original poster - pretty sure halfshafts will compress on the splined joint a bit. Check condition of your UJs and diff mounts while its out? ed_h - Michelin Red Bands. Are these your project car's original tyres!? Sorry 'Tires'? Interesting spring/damper bridge plate reinforcement for diff brackets. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 Harvey-- Yes, original tires. I'll have to replace them before I put her on the road. On the reinforcements, the shallow channel was something I had on hand, and it seemed appropriate. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 Also did it by hand without custom built cradle. Fairly tricky but not impossible. Second time took the body off the chassis and lowered the new chassis onto the DIF. Much easier :-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy1966 Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 Simon Did mine on my own on my driveway earlier this year, my drive is gravel based so placed some sheets of galvanised still on ground to stop ramps/jacks sinking. My method was 1. Drive on to ramps 2. Raise off these with jack and support with stands (wood between chassis and stands), i increased height about 50mm (2") above ramps so wheels can rotate. 3. undo three drive shaft points 4. remove middle and read section of exhaust 5. manufacture a wooden crate to support diff & mount on end of trolley jack 6. Raise to support diff and remove 4 mountings 7. Lastly lower to ground and slide it out on trolley jack. Only real issue i had was angle of the car was at, versus angle the trolley jack raises the diff on re installation, i did it on my own but had to wiggle it & sweat a bit to make it align up. Pictures attached Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy1966 Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 Apologies spell checker problems Still = Steel Read = Rear Quote Link to post Share on other sites
15eren Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 Hi Simon Here is a link to my diff remove and refit tool. http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/44637-diff-remove-and-refit-tool/?hl=%2Bdiff+%2Bremove Regards Tage Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave McDonald Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Tage That's a very clean shiny garage floor!! Attached photos show my diff removal/refit tool. Its made from 2mm steel plate which I had folded at a local steel fabricator. I made cardboard templates of the diff casing at back and front and used them to mark the vertical plates for cutting with my angle grinder. Crude but effective. The baseplate has a spare saddle for my trolley jack welded to it. Care needed to position the saddle for best balance. The saddle also rotates allowing directional adjustment under the car. The diff sits horizontal on the trolley jack. Jack the back of the car up and support on axle stands with chocks under front wheels so car slopes down towards front. This allows me to lie on the floor under the car to position the diff. It's of more use when replacing the diff than when removing the diff. I find that gravity plays a big part in assisting the diff removal!! To refit diff slide trolley jack with diff under car with top of diff casing just below the two central angled chassis rails. At front diff pin locations the diff front cross mount "bridge" with the large diameter holes in it is slightly wider than the gap between these chassis rails. Keep diff back where it can be raised between the tapered/angled gap between the chassis rails and raise it until the cross mount is just over the chassis, then push trolley jack forward until diff cross mount holes line up with fixing pins. Because of the diff being flat/horizontal with the car sloping down this forward movement can be done without the diff casing interfering with the back diff fixing pins because they are at a higher level. Fit bushes to front pins and raise diff on jack until diff/bushes/pins engage. Fit large diameter washers and loosely fit nuts. The diff front is now locate and fixed. Raise jack further until rear mounts line up with rear pins. I fitted these rear bushes with the steel sandwich plate loosely to the diff to allow adjustment for alignment. Again fit large diameter washer and loose bottom nuts. The diff is now fitted and safely in position, albeit with all fixing nuts loose. Lower jack with cradle and remove it. Tighten all fixing nuts to finally secure the diff. I've only made this cradle this year and used it for one diff removal and refit. In reality I found the 2nd lift for the diff back end a bit awkward because the base plate is rigid. Lifting the back involved an element of timber wedges and pry bar between the baseplate and diff casing. I plan to incorporate a raising screw arrangement from the baseplate to lift the back before it's next use. Hope that convoluted description is all clear? Dave McD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Plank of wood and a sandbag Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave McDonald Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Who are you calling a "Plank of wood and a sandbag"? Is that just because I put you on the Forum after weekend celebrations. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 not at all Dave trust me it works. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Andy, you can edit your posts. Bottom righthand corner - edit. This allows you to change whatever - and nobody will notice (nearly). Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sapphire72 Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Plank of wood and a sandbag This is brilliant. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 Tage That's a very clean shiny garage floor!! Attached photos show my diff removal/refit tool. Its made from 2mm steel plate which I had folded at a local steel fabricator. I made cardboard templates of the diff casing at back and front and used them to mark the vertical plates for cutting with my angle grinder. Crude but effective. The baseplate has a spare saddle for my trolley jack welded to it. Care needed to position the saddle for best balance. The saddle also rotates allowing directional adjustment under the car. The diff sits horizontal on the trolley jack. Jack the back of the car up and support on axle stands with chocks under front wheels so car slopes down towards front. This allows me to lie on the floor under the car to position the diff. It's of more use when replacing the diff than when removing the diff. I find that gravity plays a big part in assisting the diff removal!! To refit diff slide trolley jack with diff under car with top of diff casing just below the two central angled chassis rails. At front diff pin locations the diff front cross mount "bridge" with the large diameter holes in it is slightly wider than the gap between these chassis rails. Keep diff back where it can be raised between the tapered/angled gap between the chassis rails and raise it until the cross mount is just over the chassis, then push trolley jack forward until diff cross mount holes line up with fixing pins. Because of the diff being flat/horizontal with the car sloping down this forward movement can be done without the diff casing interfering with the back diff fixing pins because they are at a higher level. Fit bushes to front pins and raise diff on jack until diff/bushes/pins engage. Fit large diameter washers and loosely fit nuts. The diff front is now locate and fixed. Raise jack further until rear mounts line up with rear pins. I fitted these rear bushes with the steel sandwich plate loosely to the diff to allow adjustment for alignment. Again fit large diameter washer and loose bottom nuts. The diff is now fitted and safely in position, albeit with all fixing nuts loose. Lower jack with cradle and remove it. Tighten all fixing nuts to finally secure the diff. I've only made this cradle this year and used it for one diff removal and refit. In reality I found the 2nd lift for the diff back end a bit awkward because the base plate is rigid. Lifting the back involved an element of timber wedges and pry bar between the baseplate and diff casing. I plan to incorporate a raising screw arrangement from the baseplate to lift the back before it's next use. Hope that convoluted description is all clear? Dave McD DSC00817.JPGDSC00814.JPGDSC00818.JPG Dave where did you get your spare jack foot from? Sandbag works a treat BTW. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave McDonald Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 Stuart The trolley jack is a Sealey unit and I just went to my local Motor Factor (Retford Motor Spares) who are Sealey agents and they ordered it for me. It was readily available and came a few days later with their next bulk delivery. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 Stuart The trolley jack is a Sealey unit and I just went to my local Motor Factor (Retford Motor Spares) who are Sealey agents and they ordered it for me. It was readily available and came a few days later with their next bulk delivery. Dave OK thanks. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 (edited) Removing the diff is a simple three-step process: 1. Remove the body and exhaust. 2. Attach sling to diff and skyhook. 3. Unbolt and lower diff. Ed Now there's an idea..! I shall try that with the body in place. Drill four holes in the parcel shelf to take two rope loops, under front and rear of diff. Secure loops to sky hook. Undo diff bolts, lower diff on rope loops. Refit in reverse sequence. Advantage is to get rid of jack sandbag etc obstructing the crawl space and access to diff pin bolts. Peter Edited November 3, 2015 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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