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Sapphire72 last won the day on October 23 2018

Sapphire72 had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    York, Pennsylvania, USA
  • Cars Owned:
    1972 TR6 purchased in April,2012, CC80594U, Sapphire Blue.
    Finished, sold 10/2018.

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  1. I have posted this previously, but it is still the best guide available to trouble shooting TR6 electrical problems. It uses flow-charts as well as descriptive step-by-step text on how to trace down an electrical issue. Search the web using the title & author- Dan Masters, it is available.
  2. You could carry a bicycle pump to raise the tyre enough to get a jack underneath. Or walk until you find an active wedding.
  3. That's very nice, Graham. When mine was finished, I would fill up the tank and just go for hours. Didn't want to stop. Enjoy it & feel young again. Cheers, Walt
  4. Lube your trunnions, shoot some grease into the steering box add hole, grease the ball joints, repack your front wheel bearings and set the castle nut to specs.
  5. Roger, here's the specs from the Triumph Owners Workshop Manual. Cheers, Walt
  6. Here are photos of the breather pin, top & inside views. Capacity of the entire differential is 1.42 liters. If you raise the rear end with a trolley jack centered under the diff (with supports under the chassis), or, even drive it up on some wood boards- you could slide yourself underneath to have a look at where it is leaking from. This way you could be more knowledgeable when you approach the repair shop. Cheers Walt
  7. It could be the treads on a tire, I had that problem with my '73 911. I replaced the rear wheel bearings and the noise persisted- turns out it was a weird worn Michelin. Try moving the rear tire (s) to the front. Cheers, Walt
  8. Perhaps you can locate & purchase a right rear replacement wing that is solid and in good shape. If you can find a low cost one. All that filler is not good, as well as the metal that has disappeared. The rear valance looks fixable.
  9. Bill Piggott gets so close to the answer... I had always heard that the leather boot strap was to secure the spoke wheel knockoff hammer, but I'm not certain that is correct, though possible.
  10. Order the Dan Masters Electrical Maintenance Handbook for Triumph TR250-TR6. The Bentley Service Manual for TR6 compliments it. You will be able to troubleshoot electrical problems all by yourself- no need to take the car anywhere for service. I was a complete idiot with electrical stuff, then, suddenly I had the electrics working properly. There are step-by-step flow charts, as well as text, taking you through the steps to problem solve. Walt
  11. Good questions. Yes, that is the block plug that you have an arrow pointing to. Yes, you can pour from a container, no pressure required. After you have clean water coming out the plug hole, close it back up. Then fill the system with fresh water. Subsequent operation would be to run the engine with the heater valve wide open & the blower motor on high (to flush the heater core & hoses). The idea with this second operation is to flush the entire cooling/heating system--- with fresh water---, perhaps once or twice, draining from the radiator bottom until you get clean water coming out. It is really that simple. Finally, drain the fresh water and fill your system with the 50-50 solution of coolant & distilled water and run the engine for awhile, checking from the radiator top, that fluid is at the correct level. When the thermostat is open (normal operating temperature, engine idling) you should see the coolant moved by the water pump, at a steady flow, looking into the radiator with cap off. When that is all done, check your radiator overflow container- it should be 1/4th to 1/2 full.
  12. Above & behind the starter motor/solenoid there is a 7/8" bolt head on the side of the engine block- you can see it in this photo, under the manifold & in front of the throttle linkage vertical arm (LHD USA engine bay). To loosen it use a 6 point socket, with a flex connector and extensions to a ratchet. Anything other than a 6-point socket may not grip well, & may round out the bolt head. It's in there tightly. If you remove this bolt, you will be able to flush out years of yucky engine crud, including original factory casting sand. Use anti-seize paste when retightening bolt. All I did was to pour water into the top of the radiator until the flushed engine crud ran clean out the bolt hole. Same with radiator itself, open bottom pep-cock. There are flushing agents available, but this worked well for my TR6 engine. You will want the heater core passages open, and fan/blower functioning, so that when you run the engine, fresh water circulates through the heater core & core hoses. Flush as necessary with fresh water- then fill cooling system with 50% coolant/anti-freeze and 50% distilled water. Cheers Walt
  13. John is probably correct in his P.S.
  14. John, that's a good idea, or set it in a low temp oven for 3 minutes, or use a heat gun- could soften the rubber enough to lessen the cursing. Any way you attack it, it is a 'trying' job. Walt
  15. As Stuart says. There are 7 indented areas that take the clips. You must be on the indents with each clip. Start at the front and sequentially work to the rear. The last two or three are most difficult because of the change in elevation of the door shape. Test each one after it is attached- sometimes the clip looks attached but will slip off- you should hear/feel a final click as the clip is home. When the clip drops down inside the door, that is a good time to curse. Walt
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