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Sapphire72

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Sapphire72 last won the day on October 23 2018

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  • Location
    York, Pennsylvania, USA
  • Cars Owned:
    1972 TR6 purchased in April,2012, CC80594U, Sapphire Blue.
    Finished, sold 10/2018.

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  1. Perhaps you can locate & purchase a right rear replacement wing that is solid and in good shape. If you can find a low cost one. All that filler is not good, as well as the metal that has disappeared. The rear valance looks fixable.
  2. Bill Piggott gets so close to the answer... I had always heard that the leather boot strap was to secure the spoke wheel knockoff hammer, but I'm not certain that is correct, though possible.
  3. Order the Dan Masters Electrical Maintenance Handbook for Triumph TR250-TR6. The Bentley Service Manual for TR6 compliments it. You will be able to troubleshoot electrical problems all by yourself- no need to take the car anywhere for service. I was a complete idiot with electrical stuff, then, suddenly I had the electrics working properly. There are step-by-step flow charts, as well as text, taking you through the steps to problem solve. Walt
  4. Good questions. Yes, that is the block plug that you have an arrow pointing to. Yes, you can pour from a container, no pressure required. After you have clean water coming out the plug hole, close it back up. Then fill the system with fresh water. Subsequent operation would be to run the engine with the heater valve wide open & the blower motor on high (to flush the heater core & hoses). The idea with this second operation is to flush the entire cooling/heating system--- with fresh water---, perhaps once or twice, draining from the radiator bottom until you get clean water coming out. It is really that simple. Finally, drain the fresh water and fill your system with the 50-50 solution of coolant & distilled water and run the engine for awhile, checking from the radiator top, that fluid is at the correct level. When the thermostat is open (normal operating temperature, engine idling) you should see the coolant moved by the water pump, at a steady flow, looking into the radiator with cap off. When that is all done, check your radiator overflow container- it should be 1/4th to 1/2 full.
  5. Above & behind the starter motor/solenoid there is a 7/8" bolt head on the side of the engine block- you can see it in this photo, under the manifold & in front of the throttle linkage vertical arm (LHD USA engine bay). To loosen it use a 6 point socket, with a flex connector and extensions to a ratchet. Anything other than a 6-point socket may not grip well, & may round out the bolt head. It's in there tightly. If you remove this bolt, you will be able to flush out years of yucky engine crud, including original factory casting sand. Use anti-seize paste when retightening bolt. All I did was to pour water into the top of the radiator until the flushed engine crud ran clean out the bolt hole. Same with radiator itself, open bottom pep-cock. There are flushing agents available, but this worked well for my TR6 engine. You will want the heater core passages open, and fan/blower functioning, so that when you run the engine, fresh water circulates through the heater core & core hoses. Flush as necessary with fresh water- then fill cooling system with 50% coolant/anti-freeze and 50% distilled water. Cheers Walt
  6. John is probably correct in his P.S.
  7. John, that's a good idea, or set it in a low temp oven for 3 minutes, or use a heat gun- could soften the rubber enough to lessen the cursing. Any way you attack it, it is a 'trying' job. Walt
  8. As Stuart says. There are 7 indented areas that take the clips. You must be on the indents with each clip. Start at the front and sequentially work to the rear. The last two or three are most difficult because of the change in elevation of the door shape. Test each one after it is attached- sometimes the clip looks attached but will slip off- you should hear/feel a final click as the clip is home. When the clip drops down inside the door, that is a good time to curse. Walt
  9. Jon, You are doing a fine job presenting your advances via photos & description. It's good to follow along. As others have written, the pickings for the inner wing replacements are poor fitting- better to hammer out the original panel you have- it's mostly flat & the gutter. To protect the radiator it was a simple matter to attach a mesh screen to the back side of the valance. No plow attachment needed. Walt
  10. Looks like a snow blower attachment.
  11. No disrespect taken, nor intended, but this fiberglass patch method makes a strong repair, and it will not rust out again. Just trying to save you money. In your new metal replacement be sure to treat the welds TOP & BOTTOM SIDES with appropriate epoxy primer coating, then a non-porous top paint- or they will rust again.
  12. For those floor repairs, try doing a web search for 'Kent Bergsma miracle paint rust repair'. He has got a bunch of YouTube videos on how he repairs non-structural rust holes on old Mercedes-Benz cars. He uses fiberglass cloth and a thick non-porous, hard drying paint from Bill Hirsch (Miracle Paint) to patch the metal. It dries as hard as a thin steel, and will not rust out again. It is cheap and easy, just time intensive. Avoids welding.
  13. Agreed. You don't want those splines getting corrupted. The Triumph engineers had to take into account all climates of the world- that means wet, mud, frozen, gravel highways and the like. Also consider that the rear axles were cross-wise, not in-line as was the propeller shaft, consequently they potentially collected more gritty substances. When I bought my '72 TR6, it had lived many years without gaiters/boots and the u-joints were all shot. That's why I installed the new rubbers & new u-joints. If you live in a dry climate, or only drive on good weather days, the protective rubber may not be so important. Walt
  14. Jerry, there is (1) ONE wire on (1) ONE gaiter to untwist, that's it. One wire, one gaiter & it's off. The inner boot just slides off, no wire. It's as simple as putting a shoe on your foot. Cheers, Walt
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