Steves_TR6 Posted May 23, 2014 Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 Hi guys. Diff taken out of the tr6 today to replace the leaking oil seals. Pinion seal removed and replaced ok, the old one didn't want to move after 40 years but eventually gave up...... Side 'stub axles' removed by undoing the four bolts each side, and diff drained using the handy drain plug thoughtfully installed previously. Now I'm stuck! I've read the previous posts on the subject and talked with a trusted expert, and the advice seems to be conflicting. Either ; Pull the bearing off the shaft to get to the oil seal, then replace both. or Undo the big nut on the end of the shaft and have the carrier pressed off in a big press. (Remember this is the differential seals not the hubs, which I'm replacing also.) Will the former work, how do I get the bearing off the shaft?? With the latter I don't see how they would press the carrier off, as the bearing would be in the way? This seems to be the only issue that I have with the 'rear end upgrade' at least so far. So I'd really like to get it sorted, advice therefore appreciated :-) Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wheeler Posted May 23, 2014 Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 Hi Steve I have a puller made up by a blacksmith member of the Thames Valley group has been used successfully by a few of us. I live in Dorking you are welcome to borrow it. Cheers Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted May 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Thanks Bill I am off to Moss now to buy new bearings and seals. Does the puller remove the bearings or break the taper ? Regards Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nick Jones Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 If the bearings are good I'd pull/press the flange off. Bearings are very tight on the shaft and, IIRC special ones are used to allow for the growth of the inner race caused by the tight fit. The flanges took about 12 tonnes each from my work press to shift, though a suitable puller would also do the trick. Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wheeler Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Hi Steve Puller separates the flange from the taper. Cheers Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted May 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Thanks Nick and Bill. I bought new bearings but on balance I'll try the puller to release the taper and just replace the seals. Bill, I've sent you a pm about collecting the puller, could come over this afternoon if it suits you? Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted May 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 (edited) Success! By bolting the two side shafts of the diff 'back to back' and then slowly tightening the bolts, one of the tapers let go with a pleasing 'crack' Then by inserting a couple of big washers and a suitably sized socket and repeating the procedure the other let go too! Very pleased with my ingenuity :-) Seals removed and replaced easily, diff all back together and ready for reinstallation with new bushes, big washers, nuts etc. Edited May 24, 2014 by SDerbyshire Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3739 Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Well done Steve top marks. Cheers Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Well i started to do my Seals earlier this Week and ran into a Problem,Pressed one Shaft Out at about 8.5 Ton and then the otherone wouldn't let go even at 15 Ton,now gone off to an Engineering Shop with a 50 ton press. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jogger321 Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 Hi is there anybody in the Guildford area and surrounding that has done this job that might be able to give a bit of advice on this please? I have managed to remove the differential from my TR6 ok and have purchased the three replacement seals...The intention assuming the bearings are ok is to just replace the seals Do I need to take it to an engineering shop? Obviously concerned to make sure I don't damage it! Thank you Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT6M Posted March 16, 2017 Report Share Posted March 16, 2017 If it aint been shifted for a while, it may be a bit ..stiff t,shift. and for some strange reason, some pop off easy wid a puller, and a good wak wid an ammer, to shock it loose some pop off easy wid 4 bolts an nuts, wid each joined to each other. agen, a wak may be needed, some will strip the bolts an nuts, even wid lots of waks some pullers bend the flange, even wid lots of waks and some presses ripp the thing,t bits if used on the flange, with curved spacers t,fit around the flange, see Pic If using a press, then it really needs t,have a spacer put thru onto the inner bearing race, and the nut loosend a few turns, so wen it goes pop, and some ive took off ev regustered 70 tons, befoer it went BANG. this why end nut needs t,be left on, it stops it flying into orbit,!!! whenst ye got em off, there a good chnce the inner oil seal surfaces are all pitt marked. it so, then 2 seals can be fitted into the seal housing, this,l stop any leaks caused by the pit / pok marks Bung a drain plug in too,wid a magnet onit. oil is cheeper than diffs M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HSM Posted March 16, 2017 Report Share Posted March 16, 2017 The last time I replaced diff. seals it required a 40 tonne hydraulic press ( the gauge went to max. before the flange released ) and a 30mm thick tool steel block to support the flange. Harvey S. Maitland Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted March 16, 2017 Report Share Posted March 16, 2017 I did this job 2 months ago; the 3 flanges came of relatively easy, I used the counter flange with 4 bolts as a puller, by putting a large nut and ring between them (that's what I had available). The oil seal on the inlet shaft had to be taken out with a sharp old screwdriver or similar, the new seals went in easily. Before commencing, read the brown bible carefully, and also Ed's website has excellent information (bullfire.net). Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 16, 2017 Report Share Posted March 16, 2017 Hi Jogger, the simple puller appears to work very easily (mine did) however big presses tend to require many tons (very odd). TRy the method as per Waldi above and described by Steve in full detail in post #7 If using a big press - apply a reasonable load and then shock it with a whack with a hammer (and a steel drift) Don't simply apply more load. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jogger321 Posted March 16, 2017 Report Share Posted March 16, 2017 Am I correct that somewhere I have read about putting two sets of seals in on the side ones to guarantee no leaks or have I been dreaming it ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 16, 2017 Report Share Posted March 16, 2017 Am I correct that somewhere I have read about putting two sets of seals in on the side ones to guarantee no leaks or have I been dreaming it ? See above post #11 Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stanpartmanpartwolf Posted March 16, 2017 Report Share Posted March 16, 2017 Do not pull on the flanges. Always press the axle through the flange and bearing, supported on its inner race. I use a 5/8" UNF plain nut flush with the shaft end to spread load & prevent shaft ejection. Anything withstanding over about 20T is best released with heat instead of more pressure- I was lucky to have the use of an induction heater recently, amazing tool that did the trick in seconds. Leaks can be eased by fitting a special washer between bearing & shoulder that stops the shaft walking outwards & compromising the seal area. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT6M Posted March 16, 2017 Report Share Posted March 16, 2017 Do not pull on the flanges.Always press the axle through the flange and bearing, supported on its inner race. Says Stanly Wolf, bang on, as this was why the pic of one that come apart using the flange, and a full cirlce support. was bunged up, shows what can happen And, flanges bend v v easily too. M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted March 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 I was looking at my diff the other day and its still not leaking! So i think that diy seal replacement should be possible. I'm near to guildford too, so if you want i could drop by for a look/chat. Here's how i separated the half shafts to replace the seals. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 If it aint been shifted for a while, it may be a bit ..stiff t,shift. and for some strange reason, some pop off easy wid a puller, and a good wak wid an ammer, to shock it loose some pop off easy wid 4 bolts an nuts, wid each joined to each other. agen, a wak may be needed, some will strip the bolts an nuts, even wid lots of waks some pullers bend the flange, even wid lots of waks and some presses ripp the thing,t bits if used on the flange, with curved spacers t,fit around the flange, see Pic If using a press, then it really needs t,have a spacer put thru onto the inner bearing race, and the nut loosend a few turns, so wen it goes pop, and some ive took off ev regustered 70 tons, befoer it went BANG. this why end nut needs t,be left on, it stops it flying into orbit,!!! whenst ye got em off, there a good chnce the inner oil seal surfaces are all pitt marked. it so, then 2 seals can be fitted into the seal housing, this,l stop any leaks caused by the pit / pok marks Bung a drain plug in too,wid a magnet onit. oil is cheeper than diffs M I have one that looks like that.. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jogger321 Posted March 19, 2017 Report Share Posted March 19, 2017 Hi thanks for all the advice...In the end a chap down the Rd with a press managed to get the flanges out ok..So we got to that part ok Next problem and question.. My differential is one of those fitted with what seems a daft idea of a collapsible spacer rather than shims...Given that the vehicle has not moved under its own steam for nearly 30 years I want to make sure the preload is correctly set and obviously put a new collapsible spacer in first...Can anybody recommend an engineering shop in the Guildford or surrounding locality to do this as I see it needs special tools to do it...I am aware of the number of turns on the nut solution but I have to make the assumption its not correct at the moment Thanks for all your help Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT6M Posted March 19, 2017 Report Share Posted March 19, 2017 No special tools required really cant really tell hoo slack this is, UNTILL ye got the carrier an CW oot the way DOO not put to much shim in, an olde unit, if still using same bearings. on an olde unit, it,ll spin v v freely, just the slightest resistance, this wot yer aiming for, if its like that noo, then Leave alone the spacer doo get slaker, some times its spacer, some times its bearings settling, t,get the spacer oot, then it needs the carrier took oot this so pin can come thru that end carrier, ye need 2 bigg pry bars,or screwdrives and prise on the CW bolts, each side, it,ll come oot ok it should be a tight fit, butt, maybe just drop oot if its worn, butt, tek it off, may slide off easy,or needs a gentle tap t,shift it, an put a 1-2 thou shim init tight fit ont shaft, so that the spacers small thickness can actually get hold onto it to compress it then tighten nut up back to the punch marks ye put on M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
poolboy Posted March 20, 2017 Report Share Posted March 20, 2017 If you are going back with collapsible spacers instead of switching to shims and solid spacer, you might want 2 new collapsible spacers...One for setting up and one for real. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Bracher Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 This topic may be whetting my appetite to get at my slightly clonky, very slightly leaky, but aside from that quiet running diff out. I have :- 1 drive shaft that 'clonks' on taking up the clutch (as if the backlash is wrong). Is this adjustable without 'major' special tools? 1 slightly leaking (2 drips a week) oil seal (from the same side). Who currently supplies the best repair parts/seals etc?? Best oil?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 Hi John, the drive shafts are best replaced as pairs. No special tools. Remove old shaft fit new shaft. You will need new UJ's and swap the hub over from old shaft to new. I two have only 2 drips a week from diff. Sadly it is every week of the year.. Penrite do good oil if you can find it these days. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.