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jogger321

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Stratford upon Avon
  • Cars Owned:
    1971 TR6 PI CP Owned by me for over 30 years Used as everyday vehicle in the first few years of ownership Dry stored for over 25 years then back on the road to good useable condition in 2018

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  1. Thanks for the info. Good news they have all come out without any studs snapping or threads stripping...I'm a meer novice at this stuff... A few of the bottom bolts securing the throttle bodies were tricky to remove as in I couldnt get a 1/2" socket drive on them. I bought a 3/8" extension bar and used that along with the correct socket and sorted it.. I have ordered a Payen gasket and will reassemble with graphite grease the studs and both surfaces of the gasket... The other good news was that the manifold easily came away from the head giving enough room to remove the exhaust gasket...without further dismantlement of the exhaust system
  2. Thanks chaps...A quick look just now .....I've just put penetrating oil on each nut.... I've tried to turn them all and it appears the nuts are all seized but without much brute force they are turning because the stud is also turning (i.e coming out siezed on the nut).....I haven't broken anything yet Will this method be ok if I simply replace with all new studs and nuts etc?
  3. The TR6 Pi that I put back on the road after a 26 year gap of storage has been behaving itself really well the last couple of years covering nearly 3,000 virtually trouble free miles... Last week I noticed what I believe is a slighly leaking exhaust manifold to engine gasket...The two nuts (top and bottom) holding it nearest the bulkhead were loose...I did tighten them up and also all the other nuts (which moved) however we still have the leak so I guess i'm going to have to remove the manifold and throttle bodies in order to do this. I wonder if there are any tips on the best way of going about this...I'm concerned about snapping the studs on the head and also throttle body realignment? on reassembly. The gasket i'm intending to purchase is one of these...Should I use anything on the mating surfaces? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Payen-JA510-Manifold-Gasket/143299846365?epid=248851123&hash=item215d5620dd:g:8gYAAOSwWYxdNlmy Many thanks
  4. jogger321

    belt trouble

    Loosening engine mounts to change a fan belt? Thats the sort of thing you would expect to have to do on a modern honda car along with needing a special tool...but surely not on a 50 year old Triumph?
  5. jogger321

    Classical Dash

    My experience having dealt with a lot of these cottage style companies in the classic car world... is that there are a lot of really good craftsmen out there that excel in the quality of their work but are rubbish at running a business and all it entails...
  6. jogger321

    Classical Dash

    PLEASE CAN ANYBODY HELP!!!! - UPDATE Yesterday I posted my side of a dispute with Classical Dash regarding supply of a wooden dash for my ’71 TR6PI. Ian Bond – owner of Classical Dash not surprisingly told me last night he has a different story…. Anyway: Last night a fellow TR enthusiast – having read my story and felt my frustration - took it upon him to build a bridge between Mr. Bond and myself. I CAN TODAY CONVEY TO ALL OF YOU THAT WE HAVE GENUINELY SETTLED THE DISPUTE AND THAT A DASH IS NOW IN MY POSSESION!! This is very good news and means I can look forward to my “soon to be” retirement giving me time to finalizing the restoration of my TR6. Why did it come to this? As often with human beings; my general statement is: - lack of proper communications. What you say may not be what I interpret you are saying…. Before I get too philosophical, the message from my friend, who is storing the dash until my next visit to UK, is that the dash in burr walnut looks stunning and for sure would be to my likings!!! Special thanks to those of you that has assisted in the closure of this dispute!! Halvor Asland
  7. jogger321

    Classical Dash

    Hopefully Classic Dash will see this either on Facebook or on this forum and take up the opportunity to respond to these allegations?
  8. I ended up driving my 6 down a country lane in the dark for the first time last night...and what an experience that was! The car passed an MOT last year and on dip beam although not brilliant the lamps do point down at the road in what appears to be roughly the same height for both beams main beam seems to be a different story though...looked to me like one was pointing away from the road and too high....Is this possible or just my imagination? Is there an easy way to check this using a garage door rather than paying a garage with all the kit? If so how do you do it plus how to the adjusters work on the lights? Many thanks
  9. I need to replace the window outer rubbers on mine. In fact one of mine is completely missing and the window rattles around when up. What is this mythical tool spoken about? :-) I guess if my name is Peter I'd be known as Peter no Tool? If anyone has one they'd be be prepared to loan I'd be more than happy to make a contribution towards the cpost of the original as I suspect if I buy one I will only use it once for this job
  10. When my engine tap on the block started weeping I did buy a new replacement but chickened out fitting it as it was very tight. In the end I got my local engineering shop to tap the thread on the actual screw in tap and put a larger bolt in it with ptfe...and put the old one back in.. I'm getting better at working on these cars but still regard myself as a complete novice... But I really didn't want to strip or damage the thread on the engine block!!
  11. Thanks for the replies guys...I've just ordered a set from the TR shop with soundproofing/underlay and a fitting kit. I will use contact adhesive as suggested.. I guess I'm going to have to make some holes in the carpet for bolting the seat runners down... What tool or how did people go about doing that? I realise a stanley blade is an obvious way of doing it...but did folk use another method? Many thanks
  12. Having got my TR6 (which i've owned for 30 years) back on the road last year and mechanically not bad i'm now turning my attention to the interior I'm looking at fitting new carpets to replace the orginals which are pretty moth eaten and very worn out on mine I'm pretty handy but was just wondering if somebody that has replaced their carpets could give me a guide as to the challenges I'm likely to face when doing the job? What materials do I need to buy (apart from the carpets) to do the job? I'm thinking of putting sound deadening underneath the carpet..I notice on my floor plan there are male studs poppers in some places where the original carpet pops into and hold it in place ...Does new carpet come with these or is this something you have to fit on the carpets and floor for the new material. Is glue required...If so which sort...any additional trim needed or replaced?...Finally how do you deal with the carpets and where runners bolt through the floor in relation to making holes for the carpets ...or do sets already have the holes predrilled? Many thanks
  13. I've sorted it!. The switch was wired incorrectly at the back....I think its possibly me that did it that way when was driving the car every day 30 years ago!....Couldnt afford a workshop manual in those days and probably thought that looks about right! Anyway I got the wiring diagram out yesterday and changed a couple of the wires over and now its howling a gale at high speed like a good 'un !
  14. My TR6 after a 28 year lay up got back on the road last year after a lot of work and I've driven over 2,000 miles in it since I'm just now trying to sort out some of the more minor issues with it I've fitted the upgraded heater valve and also last week replaced the metal bulk head heater plate as my old one was very corroded and I could not get one heater rubber pipe to stop weeping...Thats all sorted and its dry now This afternoon I used the heater blower for the first time! ....Its a pull out switch that has 3 settings ...Off, Low and High Mine seems to work in OFF ok and on LOW (the fan runs) but when I pull it out to the High setting the fan appears to switch off Does anyone have any ideas please on how I should start tracking down what might be causing this please? Thankyou
  15. Thanks for all your help on this..I'm going to do the flush after the bank holiday as the weather looks good for driving the TR6 rather than spanner it... Final question...Should I remove the thermostat when doing the flushing...Does it have any merit doing this? Many thanks
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