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jogger321

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  1. Wow & Wow I finished fitting the lever arms that I had refurbished at Stevsons this morning and have just come back from a forty mile drive enjoying the weather today. Its possible that my lever arms had completely worn out before being refurbished (i.e a lot worse than yours!) ....however all I can say is the car feels transformed...Instead of all the bounce, bounce, bounce and wallowing it was doing before at the rear it is no longer bouncing and feels so much more sure footed...I feel a lot more confident in it now and its also far more comfortable..I kept the standard coil springs....Stevsons have uprated them between 15 & 20% My conclusion as i'm not taking it on a track or going hill climbing is that I'm extremely pleased to have kept the lever arms and didnt just do a knee jerk and go for a telescopic conversion
  2. Welded from what I remember ...and stripped the weld and ended in it rotating inside the chassis and very inacessible....so go careful :-)
  3. Interesting video...Thanks for posting Whilst I appreciate it is about the lever arms...The method of torquing the link arms 1) lever arm to top of link arm (tapered) 2) Bottom link arm with rubber bushes to trailing arm is not shown. should this be done with the wheel on the ground and full weight of car on ground or with no weight i.e up in the air ....The brown bible is unclear ??
  4. I got the impression when I talked to Mr Stevenson that the method he used to uprate the lever arms included putting a shim of some sort against one of the internal springs in the lever arm mechanism and wasn't about the oil
  5. Ok I have now got my Lever arms back from Stevsons. Very old school establishment. As has been mentioned by a previous poster he is rebuilding the ones for Rimmer brothers Before I refit them it occurred to me that since the Lever arms have been now uprated by approx 20% should I be looking at changing the existing standard rear coil springs to an uprated item or stick with the standard springs?...I'm only interested in road driving ...no hill climbing or competition work If you uprated your springs what did you go for? What about the pads at each end of the spring did you replace those as well?
  6. I've decided that as the plan is never to sell my TR6 to have a complete bare metal respray. The body is good with very little rust but the paintwork is not. It currently consists of an assortment of paint shades in acrylic and cellulose paints.. I'm about to start approaching some body shops and am looking for advise on the pitfalls on getting this done Can anyone recommend anyone in the west midlands area that they have used and are happy with the result? If you had your car resprayed and were going about it now what would you do differently if anything?
  7. Thanks Z320 ...Very interesting about the link arms...I see somebody else has come up with another improved design? https://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?productID=914
  8. My Tr6 was put back on the road last year after being in my mums garage for 28 years (long story!) We obviously did an awful lot of work to make it road worthy and useable and it passed its MOT....I managed 2700 miles in it last year and it never left me by the side of the road so have been very happy Today I took full advantage of the unusually warm weather and worked in the garage on the 6 and removed both Armstrong lever arms as these were not touched in the restoration last year.. I've decided to keep the suspension the same i.e I'm not going the telescopic shock absorber route and am going to get the existing units refurbished by Stevensons in Birmingham My question is a lot of threads on this topic mention "uprating" the arms during refurb.... What does this mean exactly and how will that tranlate into the feel of the car on the road if I get this done....It does beg the question if uprating is such an improvement why didnt they leave the factory like that? The car is used on the road keeping up with modern traffic but I have no intention of taking it on the track or going hill climbing in it....Thanks for your help
  9. I'm still trying to an outer boot that doesn't start to disintegrate to powder after six months....Any recommendations as I've had two from different suppliers that were absolute rubbish!
  10. I got my TR6 back on the road last year after 28 years sitting in the garage...It's a 71pi with A type on 2,3 & 4 You can imagine getting a vehicle roadworthy after all that time and extensive refurbishment would result in some problems The main problem was an intermittent working overdrive that eventually stopped working all together. The solution was a replacement overdrive gearbox harness that sorted the problem 100% which I documented on the forum fixing it. I can honestly say that having experienced having an overdrive and not having an overdrive working on my car I would never go back to driving a TR6 without overdrive by choice The main part that in 4th gear non overdrive the engine is buzzing so much that in the end I didnt drive it until I fixed it When you are in 4th normal gear and sgift into 4th overdrive the whole thing becomes a more relaxed drive as the revs drop I have no experienceof the J type but my A type with its new solenoid, wiring loom, correct oil level and adjustment...I'm happy with how it performs it on a nearly 50 year old vehicle
  11. It does seem very strange...How has the TR Register marked the 50 years...have there been any special celebrations, meetings etc?
  12. To make absolutely certain whether its something electrical or the overdrive itself....and if you have the gearbox tunnel off... Remove the solenoid altogether and tie piece of string to the overdrive operating arm and find a private road and either (preferable) get a passenger to pull it up and release it Go VERY CAREFULLY of the exposed prop shaft when you do this ...On mine it proved the fault was electrical and indeed it turned out that a new gearbox overdrive loom provided a perfect fix!
  13. I posted this a while ago....It might help as was starting from a point of knowing nothing and eventually managed to fix it! https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/65938-another-a-type-overdrive-problem/?p=580758
  14. I hate it when you read a thread all the way because you have a similar problem and you get to the end and the original poster hasn't come back whether they managed to fix it! Anyway I'm back ...and it's fixed!! (I've left it a few weeks to make sure it seems to be a lasting fix and it seems to be)... Hope my experience helps somebody some time in the future So in the end the solenoid was was replaced ...and it only worked intermittently ...when it was cold I checked the solenoid adjustment/operating arm on the overdrive using a drill and it was spot on and did not attempt to adjust it. Relay replaced relay...same problem Put Voltmeter on new Solenoid whilst being used....12 Volts showing Isolated circuit to take enabler/inhibitor switches out of the circuit (GO EXTREMELY CAREFUL IF YOU DO THIS AS PUTTING THE CAR IN REVERSE AND MOVING EVER SO SLIGHTLY WILL WRECK THE OVERDRIVE)......This didn't fix it either Remove Solenoid altogether and tie a piece of string to the operating arm on the overdrive that the solenoid moves Find a PRIVATE road and taking extreme care with the exposed prop shaft (it will remove your fingers if you catch them or strangle you if a scarf is caught in it etc) take the car for a drive and using the string attempt to operate the overdrive...or if you have a friendly obliging passenger get them to do it so you can keep both hands on the wheel.... When I did this I found the overdrive was working perfectly!....Engaging and disengaging smoothly ....So my conclusion was it was still something electrical....but what?? The overdrive gearbox wiring loom looked like it has seen better days...(I had already cleaned all the terminals) so in the end I purchased a replacement one from Autosparks for arounf 25 pounds. What showed up was a much higher quality product than the original. I fitted it and took the car for a drive.....Full working ultra smooth overdrive in and out So it was the wiring harness in the end although I think the original solenoid was not helping as I noticed the new Solenoid has far more "pull" than the original "worn"? I'm not great on electrics to be honest and dont really understand why I was getting 12V at the solenoid end with the old loom and old solenoid/new solenoid and it stopped working when hot...I can only assume that its something to do with the old wiring in the loom being degraded after being nearly 50 years old and high resistance developing when hot.?? Anyway I'm delighted I managed to fix it on the end and thanks for all your suggestions along the way.
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