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Stanpartmanpartwolf

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  1. Hello Jon,I'm in the process of building a TR6 motor and am STILLĀ interested in your damper.Regards,Michael.

  2. David is entirely correct. I am still at large & displaying some vital signs. The last full damper kit was sold some years ago, but I do have some components still.
  3. Any mention of "new standard exhaust" always prompts one to check this! The first one took a full day to diagnose; the second- 10 minutes...
  4. Alec, Seen where those companies are based? Erm- Rosenblatt Solicitors, CEO N. Foulston (TBFW) Are they by any chance related?
  5. Well, well, well. Quite an illuminating article in the paper there if you read between the lines. Obviously nobody named Foulston would be in any way involved in any impropriety. There is a nasty smell around this.
  6. Have we all forgotten to weld up the grooves worn in the backplates by the levers? Do this, free the cylinders off properly & two shoes will contact the drum instead of one. It is that simple.
  7. My experiences with Pagid ceramics in motorsport are wholly positive. We run them in the Spa Six Hours in a weighty FIA TR4 & expect 15% pad wear in the whole event, with negligible disc wear. A revelation compared with other materials, but Ā£230 a set; do the maths & they're an absolute bargain. Well worth trying.
  8. The stabilised supply can't cope with the current required to power the pump- it is for gauges only. Use the non-stabilised fused green supply instead & it'll work.
  9. Do not pull on the flanges. Always press the axle through the flange and bearing, supported on its inner race. I use a 5/8" UNF plain nut flush with the shaft end to spread load & prevent shaft ejection. Anything withstanding over about 20T is best released with heat instead of more pressure- I was lucky to have the use of an induction heater recently, amazing tool that did the trick in seconds. Leaks can be eased by fitting a special washer between bearing & shoulder that stops the shaft walking outwards & compromising the seal area.
  10. There's no way round this one; you'd think that turning a new ring gear round, so it faces forward, would help. Of course, the chamfer then ends up on the wrong side of the teeth & seems only to make things worse. This is true for both 4 & 6 cylinder engines, sadly.
  11. Read between the lines.....GT but no 6.... By the way, last week I finally got Moss to admit, after some fifteen years of denials, that they HAD altered the spec of the almost universally used TT1207 valve springs. Yes, made them stiffer (& more prone to coil binding). I am fairly sure these have been responsible for spates of cam & follower failures. Stiffness increases with the fourth power of the material diameter & it doen't take a genius to figure that a mere 10% increase leads to a 46% stiffer spring. The same applies to anti-roll bars, but that's a whole other story.
  12. *I thought the carbon build up improves the sealing of the closed butterflies.* Another urban myth. Carelessness in carbon removal was its origin, I'd think. Remove the four butterfly screws, set the manifold in a vice, bell crank side up, apply copious Plus-Gas & heat, then lever the bell crank upwards with a couple of small pry bars. This way, you'll avoid compressing the spindle by tapping it. Do not start twisting until all three journals give.
  13. How many chaps have genuinely, really, tried the reversing electric drill trick? I can tell Andy Moltu has. He probably found out the hard way, as did I. Don't do it, folks; plugs out, two batteries in parallel & spin her up on the starter. Oil pump should be packed with Lubriplate, the best all-round assembly gunge there is.
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