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  • Birthday 10/23/1942

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  • Location
    Dorking Surrey

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  1. I bought an electric fan on ebay look here https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=Car+radiator+cooling+fan&_pgn=27 I think 14 inch, cost around £25, I fitted it as a pusher, wanted to retain standard fan. I did not bother with a thermostat just a manual switch, rarely need to use it especially since I bought a new radiator! Bill
  2. Hi Andy A few years ago I had a big problem when my flywheel on my TR6 came loose. I found a couple of the bolts had sheared and two were loose, fortunately the flywheel did not fly off! TR flywheels have only 4 bolts holding it to the crankshaft, most engines have six so it is vitally important that these bolts are of the highest tensile quality. I bought a new set made by ARP American Racing Products not cheap but a lot safer than the normal ones. MOSS do a set of special bolts not sure if they are ARP see here https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/imag
  3. Thanks Guys, I think I will go with Stuart's advice. Been too cold this week in the garage hope to finish next week. Bill
  4. Malcolm Looks like you have sorted your problem, if you need any more clutch information. You will find a very good article here https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/clutch Bill
  5. I have just fitted a stainless steel exhaust system, a standard system with a Phoenix silencer from the TR Shop. I have the system installed just need to tighten the clamps. The quality of the system is excellent and the pipe joints slip together beautifully with very close fitting. I have bought a tube of Holts Firegum exhaust assembly paste but am wondering if I need to use it. The old mild steel system had been sealed and was the devil to separate. I am thinking if I need in the future to separate the new system for removing the diff. for example it would be a lot easier without sealant.
  6. Hi David, I had a similar problem on a trip to Belgium some years ago. It turned out to be the piston in the clutch master cylinder not returning, sticking. I replaced the seals and stretched the spring, solved the problem. Hope this helps Bill
  7. Hi Dave Have a look at the Buckeye triumphs web sit https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/body-and-miscellaneouse in the Technical Section about reupholstering seats here https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5c6dec53b10f25d4edf0b3f7/t/5d01941e3ad9b100013f3e8e/1560384545365/Reupholstering+Seats.pdf look at page 6/7 and it mentions fitting the stud and shows a picture. Hope this helps. Bill
  8. Hi BlairP (sorry I can't find your first name) I embarked on a TR6 restoration when I retired 16 years ago, unfortunately the bodytub of my project disintegrated and I had to buy one of the last heritage body shells fortunately most of the original body panels, doors, boot lid bonnet etc live on in other people's projects. Below you will find the pictures of my restoration which may help you. May I suggest you try and buy a copy of Roger Williams book 'Restoring Triumph TR5/250 and TR6' also a copy of the Triumph TR6 Repair Operation Manual (the later can be downloaded from the Web)
  9. Hi Colin I don't know why Classiccar LEDs do not include a led lamp for the oil warning position. I note that a more comprehensive kit they supply for TR6 does include an oil warning LED. Best thing to do is buy the extra LED lamp, that's what I intend to do. Cheers Bill
  10. Hi Colin I have just fitted a new dashboard to my TR6 and took the opportunity to upgrade my gauge illumination and indicator lamps, oil, indicators, and main/dip. I purchased a set of led lamps from Classic Car Leds https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/triumph-tr6-warm-white-gauge-10-x-led-bulbs-upgrade-kit-glb987-e10-mes-987?_pos=3&_sid=1a3ad3c8a&_ss=r They do a TR6 gauge LED lamp kit. I have fitted this kit with excellent results. I replaced the old dimmer with a 100 Ohm 4W potentiometer. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N9DE0N0/ref=pe_3187911_185740111_TE_it
  11. Very good information on how to refurbish the brake servo on the Buckeye Triumphs website. https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/ Some of the best TR technical advice on the Web. Overhauling+Brake+Servo.pdf
  12. Hi Waldi That's a good idea I think I will change mine, it was quite difficult to solder a new nipple onto the cable end in the foot well. Thanks Bill
  13. Hi Andy I don't know about fitting Konis to the front suspension but 40,000 miles/over10 years ago I fitted the CTM mod to the rear suspension using Konis, they are still performing well. The mod transformed the rear suspension, I will eventually fit Konis to the front when the standard shocks fail, they have also performed well for 40,000 miles! Cheers Bill
  14. Looks like Waldi has done the same mod, he posted while I was composing! Bill
  15. Hi Mark I did a mod to the throttle cable, I cut back the outer sheath to where the brass ferule is crimped and fitted a bicycle brake adjuster in the throttle cable hole in the bulkhead, see photo. The cable lasted for three or four years but having said that I did have to fit a new inner (purchased from my local bike shop) a couple of weeks ago when the nipple accelerator frayed off. Doing the mod does require cutting off the nipple at the accelerator end and soldering crimping or clamping a new one when cable fitted. I hope this will help Cheers Bill
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