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poolboy

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About poolboy

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    ken...aka 'poolboy'
  • Birthday 12/22/1945

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  • Location
    Sandy Hook Mississippi USA
  • Cars Owned:
    1973 TR6

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  1. I use a thick heat resistant material, but you can use brass shim stock or an aluminum can....Cut it out in the shape of the normal gasket but with only the 3 holes for the screws that attach the TBV housing to the body of the carb. Whatever you use has to be strong enough to resist the high vacuum created during engine overrun (engine braking) conditions which otherwise would be trying to open a functioning TBV
  2. Harlequin has the right idea; but I'd permanently disable it, not just until you found a replacement,\: but I have to ask, what broke on the screw...was it just part of the slot in the head of the screw or did the screw break at the threaded section ?
  3. poolboy

    Exhaust Fumes

    There are animations like that on youtube...look for "kammback"
  4. Always a difference when you replace a component that needs repair with one that doesn't.
  5. With ZS carbs, I think there must be a reduction with the surrey, but I think wind speed and direction also play a part.
  6. If they are Zenith-Stromberg carbs with the engine NOT running...put a brick or something on the accelerator pedal so it's 'floored' Then look at your carbs to see if their throttle stop levers are in firm contact with the 'stop'
  7. You'll have to detach the soft top, including the "rear retainer bar" and you will need that windscreen capping strip for the surrey that Mick described. Mounting to the B pillar varies with the backlight frames manufacturer My frame is a MICROPLAS with a Triplex glass. I'm not sure about the current availability of Microplas...I've read about successful installation of the one that Rimmer Bros, sells
  8. I don't know what you have to choose from but "EVOLUTION" or "NOAH" over here:
  9. Get a custom sized multi layer cover so it fits tight, especially if it's going to be for outdoors..Loose fitting universal style will shift around when the wind blows and scuff the paint.
  10. I and many of us over here have been using 10% ethanol fuel for a decade...My engine and carb components don't mind it at all. BUT I don't have to hibernate my car with fuel stored in it and I doubt if any of the gas in my tank is over one month old. I think that's where you might have problems with the alcohol sitting unburned in the fuel tank for a month or more.. There is a STABIL product called "360" for everyday use and another STABIL product for stored gasoline...I believe both those are for dealing with ethanol blended fuel.
  11. Once when I had the trailing shoe reversed (upside down) I had similar binding which I noticed when slowly coasting forward in neutral
  12. I think the nose of the crankshaft can vary a bit in length from crank to crank...the nose being that round section upon which the damper fits. ...not much, but enough to effect how deep it fits into the pocket of a 'fan eliminator washer'.
  13. That one should work PLUS it looks like lacks the cut out for the TBV fuel passage to the manifold.
  14. That one in the BURLEN link is twice as thick as the one for ZS carbs which are 1/4" thick as opposed to the SU at 1/2". New ones are a hard plastic..old ones were some sort of compressed fiber material. https://www.goodparts.com/product/spacer-insulator-carb-to-manifold-175cd/
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