stuart Posted August 10, 2016 Report Share Posted August 10, 2016 H6 carbs do have a propensity to leak around the lower gland seal where the jet goes up though, there are different types of seal available now though if using cork ones a good soak in oil for 24hrs before fitting helps. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 10, 2016 Report Share Posted August 10, 2016 Roger. Sorry, I thought they would be HS6's. Agree with Stuart, H6's often leak from the seal where the jet slides up & down with application of choke. You may get away with just tightening the nut up a bit. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2016 (edited) Hi Stuart, you got there just before me. I took the jet assembly off and lo and behold the cork lower gland seal had split and was crumbling. I wonder what the replacement are like. Roger PS - one thing I have noticed about the TR4 engine is that is sounds like a well oiled sewing machine. It purr's, with no tappets bashing away no odd noises - just nice. The 4A on the other hand sounds much more mechanical - not wrong just more mechanical. Made to the same standards , using much the same materials. Edited August 10, 2016 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2016 Hi Folks, removing the cork seal with carb insitu is easy putting it back is interesting. In the end I removed the carb. The new cork is significantly thicker than the old used on but it os very soft. After fitting it all apears to have squished down OK. No drips so far. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted August 11, 2016 Report Share Posted August 11, 2016 Hi Stuart, you got there just before me. I took the jet assembly off and lo and behold the cork lower gland seal had split and was crumbling. I wonder what the replacement are like. Roger PS - one thing I have noticed about the TR4 engine is that is sounds like a well oiled sewing machine. It purr's, with no tappets bashing away no odd noises - just nice. The 4A on the other hand sounds much more mechanical - not wrong just more mechanical. Made to the same standards , using much the same materials. Hi Roger I noticed that my 4a rattled quite a bit more when I fitted an unleaded head. I still have the original head, but had another one fitted with new valve seat inserts. I am assuming because the seats are a harder material the valve produces a more metallic noise when closing. Another contributory factor might have been the fitting of double valve springs, making them close with more force, and of course the lack of lead in fuel. Did you fit double coils? The other annoying problem I have with this head is leaking pushrod tubes. Is there a good fix for this? Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2016 Hi Kevin, the TR4 head is the same as the 4A head - unleaded exhaust and double springs. Not sure where the noise comes from - could be a bit of piston slap etc. The TR4 engine does sound smooth though. Regarding the push rod tubes. These have been talked about a few times but with no real answer. One of the problems you now have is that there will be oil in the joint of head/tube. Trying to get a sealant in there would be useless as the oil will not bond to it. You could remove them and fit new tubes and try to seal the ends before belling/flaring them over. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted August 12, 2016 Report Share Posted August 12, 2016 Did you soak the seal in oil before you fitted it Roger? Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2016 Hi Graham, yes I did but probably not for long enough. I have some spares and now know what is going on , so the next change will be easy. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 Hi Folks, I've been playing with things to get through the MOT. The carbs are no longer throwing the fuel overboard. I took the car for a quick spin and noted that the further I traveled the more fuel I had showing on the gauge. Also the temp refused to get up to any decent level. However other things took my attention - it was coughing and missing. #1 sparky was getting quite sooty and probably not sparking. This has been happening over the last two years - could oil be coming down the valve guide !!! Anyway got it on the road again, and again the fuel increased with the temp stationary (very low) - but then the temp shot up to 250'F (wow) but the engine was fine. At home I found that the temp and fuel had been cross wired. What caused the very high reading - I fitted a new, solid state, voltage regulator and bingo it appears to be working correctly. The Moss regulator appears to be working OK. So, MOT tomorrow Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted August 15, 2016 Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 Me too! Fingers crossed for you Roger, I'm rather confident in my 'classic friendly' tester. I once had to shout "BEEP" when he pressed the horn button... Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Hi Folks, the MOT was easy peasy - I have now unfurled my crossed fingers and popped the lucky heather in a vase. The only point made by the tester was the front brake hoses were very close to a suspension bracket on full lock - I shall have to drive straight ahead. Having got the gauges reading the correct things and driven a few miles the car seems to be settling down a little. It would be nice to drive it fully upholstered; it would quieten down all the rattles and bonks. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 16, 2016 Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 I remember Bonks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 You silly boy young Bob. having had great success with the MOT I decided to put the car on my big ramps and allow passers-by to look under the car. I didn't really, but one day maybe. I have been plagued with an oil leak from the GB whilst it has been going nowhere. So I got under and had a look. First thing I found was clean oil drips on the big brass nut - this wasn't tight tight, it was just sort of tight. Removed the brass nut, cleaned it down and refitted with Hylomar and it is now tight. Next thing there were dark oil drips around the sump screws. All the sump screws were at least not quite tight, some quite slack. Perhaps this is the source of the dark oil drips. I shall run the engine on the ramps and await the gush of new leaks. Will it be leak free - don;t be silly Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted August 16, 2016 Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Mine passed too, with an advisory about slight play in a track rod end. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Hi Pete, a good day for MOT's. Another leak area I found was under the fuel pump. The pump was bolted down quite firmly. I have put it back with Gasket goo on both faces of the gasket. Fingers crossed. (again) Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 16, 2016 Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Roger Do you just go looking for faults? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Hi Neil, the little devils are ganging up on me. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted August 16, 2016 Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Hi Neil, the little devils are ganging up on me. Roger Roger When it breaks fix it, as the song says just drive Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Hi Neil, On my way to the MOT this morning I was able to enjoy driving the car for the first time. Up till now I've been concerned it will conk out at the next corner. The car felt good and went well. The mixture is well too rich but I'm slowly adjusting to give a nice plug colour. The oil leaks were irritating. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SuzanneH Posted August 16, 2016 Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 The oil leaks were irritating. Roger They're not the only ones.....................that are irritating that is. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2016 It must be the silly season for oil leaks. The 4A has been plagued with a decent sized leak since the IWE (and a bit before). The rocker cover was taken off at the IWE and I think the cork gasket finally decided to give up. It's been there a few years. So, down the back of the engine there was a nice river of oil. Spotted it today and remade the cover seal. Fingers crossed for a good fix. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2016 (edited) Hi Folks, I was looking at a picture of Dawns Ali TR4 radiator (looks very nice) and this triggered something that I meant to mention ages ago. Where do the top stays attach on the body???? When I got the TR4 the stays were attached to jubilee clips on the suspension turret cross beam. I've seen others that are welded to the cross beam. However when putting mine together I noticed that the alignment of the brackets/clips on the radiator lined up very well with the cut-outs in the wheel arch brackets. See attached photo. Why would TRiumph go to the TRouble of making cut-outs and then not use them. Aso making longer struts costs money !!!! The alignment is perfect. And the angle created is a far better structural shape than attaching anywhere else. Am I missing something? Roger Edited November 19, 2017 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted August 21, 2016 Report Share Posted August 21, 2016 Mines got welded eyes on either side of the turret cross brace which the stays go into, the rod is threaded for a fair bit on the end to allow adjustment. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2016 Hi John, yes, I've seen the welded eyes/lugs. Still puzzling though. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 21, 2016 Report Share Posted August 21, 2016 (edited) Your option look right to me Roger. SS cars have the strut horizontal, to a special braket near the horn shelf. This has slots, rather than hole for the strut to slide into You can see mine here Bob. Edited August 21, 2016 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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