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Hi Folks,,

isn't it odd! you think you have finished a job, turn your back for a moment and realise - oh dear.

It took quite a few days to actually finish the frame capping so the the hood material sat nice.

TRying to get the gap right was a bit of a pig. As in the pics above I had to use spacers to make up for the slight pressing problems of the new cap.

 

Anyway onwards and backwards as they say. :blink:

The new hood looks very nice but there are a few differences compared to the very original vinyl hood.

The first pic below show the front edge fit - nt pulled tight yet but I like it

The second pic shows a tab hanging down at the screen frame - where does this go and what does it do - not on the original.

The third pic shows the area where a popper stud goes in - as we know there is not enough metal on the cap - is it a case of make do and mend ?

The fourth pic show the old hood with a metal clip that attaches to the screen frame - does the above tab replace this and how?

 

The fifth pic shows my aerospace skin pins - they are stunningly brilliant - far better than automotive items. And they can pick up on some quite thick sections.

 

Roger

 

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Pic 2 the tab - wtf? Looks a bit like something from a later car that rivets to the fixed header rail.

Not seen that before on a TR4 soft roof, only ever with chrome wire clip riveted to the cantrail flap, that fits to the tag at the top of the screen frame. (Like Surrey fabric, but that has them both ends of the cantrail)

Are there spring steel metal strips sewn in the vertical fabric strip above the B post ? - if not it will flap away from the glass at speed. - ours (C&B did when we (I) chose not to fit them and we (I) retro fitted them damn quick on the first production run.

 

Pic 1 Does it stretch far enough across the screen capping to allow the durable dots to attach easily on both sides?

 

Did you fit the webbing yet? I would have fitted the soft top on the car with no webbing on the frame, (tie strings from LTD peg to front bow, to keep frame erected.) measure the distances between the seams of the fabric to get a good idea of where the webbing should attach to the frame, then fit the webbing. Got this wrong on my TR3A and it looked shite. Easy enough to move the webbing but spoils the whole thing with extra screw holes.

In 12 years, thankfully the fabric has not shrunk nor faded, it is Haartz Twillfast fabric http://www.haartz.com/exteriors/twillfast.

 

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Hi Stuart,

pigs ears and silk purses come to mind.

 

The roof fabric isn't taught yet in any direction so I may be able to pull it outwards

 

Hi Pete,

thanks for the tab info - Stuart beat you to it but all good info.

The webbing isn't fitted yet.

I need to get the fabric sorted into position before considering the front side poppers.

 

Lots of parts to the JigSaw - one piece at a time.

 

Roger

 

PS - did I tell you about the last jigsaw I bought at a bot sale. hen I got it home the 'first' piece was missing.

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Hi Folks,

having had great joy and success with the dip switch, this morning I turned my attention to the GB tunnel.

 

I am in the process of fitting underlay and carpets. The tunnel needs to be in place for this one.

 

However there is the small matter of the handbrake gaiter to fit.

 

So this morning I popped off to a main supplier of things TR..

When I offered the rubbery gaiter to the desired position it became obvious that there was a problem (god give me strength.

The rubber has the consistency of cast iron and the brake handle bellows is pointing upwards - to the uninitiated that is the wrong direction.

Interestingly it is made of two parts but glued together wrong. It looks as though they were being rescued

 

So phone around and find one fairly local.

This is made of old fashioned rubber - Hmmm, - nice and flexible, with a downward pointing bellows - nice :)

This is a one piece moulding - as it should be.

 

Next problem - when I got the car the floor handbrake was removed and replaced by a tunnel mounted handle.

All the gubbins below floor level had also been removed - nowhere to attach a replacement.

So I sourced a nice handle and fitted it - this required a bracket welded to the chassis. It all looked good at the time but with no consideration to dimensions.

 

Today the dimensions took on a new dimension (that's funny)

It appears from the new rubber gaiter and the photo below that the handle is too far outboard.

The inner face of the handle is 40mm (apprx) from the raised edge of floor panel

Can anybody give me a better dimension to work to.

 

The second pic shows the plate that retains the gaiter - does it look about the right shape as it doesn't fit the rubber too well.

I'm in the process of making a better one.

 

Roger

 

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Edited by RogerH
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I've just had new floors fitted on my 4 and have now ordered (from USA) new gaiter/plate for the handbrake lever, so I'll be interested to see how it all compares with yours.

 

If I discover anything new or interesting, I'll post a photo.

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Hi Tim,

I now have a good gaiter. Lovely floppy rubber.

However the retaining plate is not a good shape - it has an extra sticky out bit that digs into the rubber. I've made my own.

 

Roger

I trust it has turned up edges :P

 

Bob

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Hi Folks,

yesterday I was sewing edge binding onto some carpet.

Took about 2 hours to do apprx 24".. I haven't a sewing machine so have to do it by hand but using the same stitch as a machine - very tedious - but it works.

 

After I finished I put the tools and materials away.

 

This morning I start to do some more sewing and find the edge binding has done a runner.

 

It is in a small jioffy bag. I can visualise it in detail but the garage is not showing signs of giving up its treasure.

I even looked through the refuse bag before the dustmen turn up.

 

So, indoors at the moment typing and drinking coffee. This should give the garage time to sort itself out and place the bag in an obvious place.

 

Has anybody else got a supernatural garage.

 

Roger

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Hi Folks,

yesterday I was sewing edge binding onto some carpet.

Took about 2 hours to do apprx 24".. I haven't a sewing machine so have to do it by hand but using the same stitch as a machine - very tedious - but it works.

 

After I finished I put the tools and materials away.

 

This morning I start to do some more sewing and find the edge binding has done a runner.

 

It is in a small jioffy bag. I can visualise it in detail but the garage is not showing signs of giving up its treasure.

I even looked through the refuse bag before the dustmen turn up.

 

So, indoors at the moment typing and drinking coffee. This should give the garage time to sort itself out and place the bag in an obvious place.

 

Has anybody else got a supernatural garage.

 

Roger

Hi Roger, mine is similar to yours plus tools get thrown all over the place.

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Ask the missus, she can always find my lost objects in the house, I guess they can transfer the skills to the garage.

 

It often depends upon what sort of memory (other than bad) you have. Apparently there is aural and optical, we tend to be equipped with one or the other.

Example when you think of what you need does a mental picture come into view (optical) or does a little voice in the back of the head (aural) say "it's on the bench next to the vice."

I've got an optical memory which works fine until I am in a "tither" and put whatever I'm doing/or using down without looking at it and walk off. Then there's no optical memory captured and I've no idea where it's to be found, I often then have a break like Roger hoping to recapture where/how and what I was doing trying to retrace steps for my search, I swear some days that's all I do, find yesterdays missing items.

Short cut is go out and by another/some more of the item lost which then allows the mental block to pass and the missing item is to be found biting you on the ankle saying "I'm here"...buqqer.

 

Mick Richards

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Hi Folks,

thanks for comments (even Tim's :P )

 

Well it worked. After the coffee I went back to the 'black Hole'.

Having successfully transited the Event Horizon I scanned the internals of the garage.

It was not there, but from the corner of my eye I sensed a jiffy bag.

I had put it on a step of a small ladder hanging from the wall. Doh!!

 

Anyway back to topic. The reinforcing of the front edge of the side trims around the rear deck has worked a treat.

It has stiffened the delicate tip that can so easily be bent upwards.

It will also protect from sharp edges underneath if you should press on it - if only I had done it sooner.

 

Roger

 

post-4113-0-23731500-1501848477_thumb.jpg

 

 

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Hi Folks,

I'm just doing another trial fit of the roof. I have noted the following -

 

1. Everything seems too small. With the front attached and the frame is apprx correct position the rear end is about 3" short of the pegs.

 

2, The levers on the frame (by the B post) allow the frame to be raise to tension the fabric.

But then at the last knockings (levers fully rearwards) the frame comes down a touch and the tension is lost.

 

More thought required.

 

Roger

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Hi Folks,

so the work continues :) and so do the showers :angry:

 

Anyway I have the front of the hood sorted. The front lip is all fitting very well and I have manage to fit the end/corner poppers and they look good.

 

The front rail now hooks up to the fabric attachment inside and the two straps are now fitted.

.

I'm very close to fitting some LTD fasteners on the rear edge but there is a problem.

Punching the LTD's through the fabric is very difficult. Holding the fabric, holding the LTD, holding a wooden support on the rear and holding a hammer requires rather too many hands.

I have a mental picture of a tool (like Mole grips) that will simply squeeze it all together. But it doesn't exist.

Woolies do a tool for punching the central hole and the 4 peg holes - but at £60 its a bot pricey for a dozen or so LTD's.

 

Head scratching time.

 

I've had a concern about the frame tension levers (by the B post). They go over centre for the last 1/2" or so, This takes the tension from the fabric.

However having had info from MikeF and others the fabric needs to be very very tight at the top of the lever movement. This will give a tight fabric when at the over-centre position. Obviously there is a fair amount of spring in the fabric.

 

We will see :o

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Easy way to fit LTD without the correct tool:

 

establish the position that the peg needs to be at, & use a circular punch to make a hole in the hood.

Then, hold the back part (thin metal plate) of the fastener over the hole (in the correct position), & use a scalpel to push through the 4 slits into the fabric below. Finaly press the prongs on the main part into the prepared slits, pop the back plate over them (getting it the right way round) & press the 4 prongs over, getting them as tight as possible.

 

Bob.

Edited by Lebro
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Hi Bob,

I wish I had thought of that.

I can now do it but I did it the other way.

 

Using a 1/4" thick piece of ali alloy I drill five holes into it.

Four holes corresponding to the four legs and a central hole. The drill for the central hole is a nice fit int he LTD springy bit. This hole is also couterbored to let the LTD sit flat.

 

Punch a hole in the fabric same size as the central hole dril.

Put the plate behind the fabric and insert the drill so it all lines up.

Slide the LTD over the drill. Using a mole grip pres the LTD into the plate holes - bingo.

 

I'll do a photo tomorrow.

 

Roger

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Re: levers and tension; what I found was that if I fit the hood as tight as I can (on a warm, sunny day) when the levers are all the way home, there is enough "give" in the hood material to allow that little extra stretch and still be tight once the levers are over-centre.

 

Gives your hands a good workout too!!

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