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'Clunk' on take up


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Hi All

As ever, ongoing issues with the lovely 6. This time its a clunking noise when I pull away. 

I have just had the differential overhauled and was hoping that this might sort the problem.

I was thinking it might be drive shaft-related and that it was perhaps time to fit the newer c.v. ones.

Any ideas?

Ernest

 

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I'll look forward to informed replies on this topic. 

I too have a "soft klonk" on take up, the diff has recently been overhauled and is as good as new, propshaft equipped with new uprated UJs 2yrs ago and I find any play in any of the suspension bushes.

Richard.

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Do you have wire wheels? If so it could be worn splines. 

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Thanks both for contributions

Standard steel wheels RobH.

And, as noted Keith, the diff. has just been removed and refitted by what I think is a very reputable TR garage (Rees Bros.) - used polybush on the refit.

Best Wishes

Ernest

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The pressed steel diff hanger can part-fracture and give a single knock upon taking up drive from a standstill. The crack can be diificult to see. It fractures on the right side (driver's side) vertically from the lower edge and towards the curvature of the bush seat.

Peter

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1 hour ago, Ernest said:

The mounting bushes have just (about 20 miles ago) been renewed with polybush - Bluestone

Best Wishes

Ernest

Encouraging news Ernest, although I'd still be making sure they've been fitted and / or seating correctly....with the rear wheels safely off the ground.

Some good advice and ideas being offered on here by others, as always, so remain patient, open minded and work through them methodically, you'll get there in the end.

And do let us know when you find the cause (we may need your knowledge later on).

Ray  

Edited by Bluestone
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Did you tell Rees Bros about the clunk? I'm sure they would be happy to double check the area of the diff to make sure and perhaps identify where it's from. Assuming the diff area is good, then you've got drive shafts/ UJ's and the same with the prop as the next obvious points of wear. Worth checking the rear shock/ damper mounts as has been mentioned. 

Gareth

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Thanks all for the helpful advice - some thing to check.

What is the general view of changing to c.v. drive shafts - I prefer original if possible. Mind you I do

have some polybush, a Bosch fuel pump and electronic ignition, so not all standard!

Best wishes and thanks 

Ernes 

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1 hour ago, Ernest said:

 

What is the general view of changing to c.v. drive shafts - I prefer original if possible. 

I would look for the cheap and easy things first and then move on to checking the front offside diff mounting pin and the bracket on the dif for cracks before thinking about cv drive shafts. Get a small jack under the diff and see if it is moving about.

Imagine spending all that cash on cv's and find you still have a clunk.

George 

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Ernest, my guess is its worn driveshafts. If your hubs seem OK then you could replace the driveshafts - a company called Proptech do them for a reasonable price. Otherwise if you go the CV route then you're looking at approx £1k for this.

Cheers Darren

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Marco - not when going over bumps - just on puling away.

George - Thanks for sound advice.

Darren -Yes, I think all items noted do need checking before I commit to CVs 

Thanks again all for contributions

Ernest

 

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7 hours ago, Ernest said:

Thanks all for the helpful advice - some thing to check.

What is the general view of changing to c.v. drive shafts - I prefer original if possible. Mind you I do

have some polybush, a Bosch fuel pump and electronic ignition, so not all standard!

Best wishes and thanks 

Ernes 

An original drive shaft in good condition is perfectly adequate, and u/j’s are cheap to replace. Don’t forget the sliding splines can also wear, which would require a replacement drive shaft. 
The c.v. set up may be a little smoother, but if you want to drive a modern car buy an MX5! They are also a lot more expensive, your choice at the end of the day.

Mike

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If you grab the driveshaft each side of the rubber gaiter and twist in opposite directions and can feel “ play” in the splines, you will almost certainly get a clonk when you set off

 cheers Rich

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Hi Ernest not meaning to hijack the thread re drive shafts and hubs ,I have got these which I bought along time ago but I can’t remember who from  would I need to use any specific uj,s for the shafts .

Nick

IMG_2879.jpeg

IMG_2880.jpeg

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1 hour ago, had17462 said:

Hi Ernest not meaning to hijack the thread re drive shafts and hubs ,I have got these which I bought along time ago but I can’t remember who from  would I need to use any specific uj,s for the shafts .

Nick

IMG_2879.jpeg

IMG_2880.jpeg

I believe those are the same hubs I have fitted to my car- they are Quaife designed hubs that Dennis Vessey sells. You can use the standard Ujs for the joints or uprated up to you- I used uprated- in for a penny in for a pound as I also went for uprated driveshafts anyway.

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15 hours ago, michaeldavis39 said:

I believe those are the same hubs I have fitted to my car- they are Quaife designed hubs that Dennis Vessey sells. You can use the standard Ujs for the joints or uprated up to you- I used uprated- in for a penny in for a pound as I also went for uprated driveshafts anyway.

They are the best option for IRS cars. Uprated UJs too and the heavy duty shafts from Proptech. Totally bullet proof and what all the race boys use.

Stuart.

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18 hours ago, michaeldavis39 said:

That's what I couldn't remember Stuart- Proptech heavy duty shafts- there the ones I fitted and the company were very helpful too.

The splines have a special coating!

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1 hour ago, DRD said:

The splines have a special coating!

Yup its Rislan coating to help prevent lock up

Stuart.

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