spillman Posted January 9, 2023 Report Share Posted January 9, 2023 Hello One and All and a Happy New year. Its been a while since I have posted here, but I have a problem with my 3A which I am in the process of selling. I hardly drove it at all last year due to various domestic circumstances! Started it couple of times but did not venture out in it. I decided to "put it to bed" in November, and the thing wouldn't start. (It has never failed to start in 8 years of ownership!) I gave it a good clean however and decided to bed it down in any case, promising myself to sort the non-starting issue come the spring. However in the interim, I decided to sell the car, and received some unexpected interest a couple of days ago. It would not start prior to the potential purchaser's visit, but he came in any case and is very interested in the car. He is coming back on Saturday, and subject to a test drive, we have a deal. Right.... I have checked, for spark at the plugs, points gap etc, plug gap, petrol going in and air. My neighbour, an ex-mechanic has also had a look, and we are baffled! It would be great to sort it out, before the weekend. If anyone has any ideas I would be delighted to hear from you. Thanks in advance. Best wishes John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted January 9, 2023 Report Share Posted January 9, 2023 1 - have you got the choke pulled ALL the way out? It can be very stiff so you think it's there but it isn't. 2- how old is the petrol? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 9, 2023 Report Share Posted January 9, 2023 Hi John have you tried any of the 'cold start' products that you squirt into the carbs.? These often bring the dead back to life. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted January 9, 2023 Report Share Posted January 9, 2023 I’m with rob. Old fuel is the issue. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
4Mal Posted January 9, 2023 Report Share Posted January 9, 2023 The products that Roger mentions have been good for me. But could be old fuel as well.....it doesn't last as long as the old stuff did. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 9, 2023 Report Share Posted January 9, 2023 17 minutes ago, 4Mal said: The products that Roger mentions have been good for me. But could be old fuel as well.....it doesn't last as long as the old stuff did. Quite so. If the ColdStart has an effect then it ma show that mechanically all is not too far off Put new fuel into the float chambers and it may even prompt it into life and use the old fuel. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 9, 2023 Report Share Posted January 9, 2023 Gallon of new fuel in the tank. Drop the glass sediment bowl on the fuel pump and let about a pint of fuel run out. Clean and refit filled with new fuel. Pump to fill fuel line. Clean and refill the float chambers with new fuel. That usually does it for us. Failing that shew it the tow rope and an old Land Rover! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted January 9, 2023 Report Share Posted January 9, 2023 Have you checked that the fuel needle valves are not stuck closed, in the float bowls? I had this recently, grotty French fuel and they stuck overnight, twice. Car would start, run until the bowls were empty then refuse to start as no fuel could get through the stuck valves. Once I filled with new fuel no issue…..I spoke to Burlen and they thought the fuel had evaporated away when parked up and left behind a sticky residue. This was with E5 fuel, I never knowingly use E10. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trchris Posted January 9, 2023 Report Share Posted January 9, 2023 Sounds like stale fuel you could try easy start spray if you don’t have any brake and clutch cleaner in a spray does the same or and this will surprise some, neat screen wash in a trigger bottle ( it has to be neat un-diluted screen wash ) whilst starter engaged don’t overdose with either though Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike ellis Posted January 9, 2023 Report Share Posted January 9, 2023 Another trick is to remove the air cleaners, stuff some rags into the inlets and then try to start it. Sometimes it gives enough suck to get the fuel moving. Definitely try changing the fuel first though. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted January 10, 2023 Report Share Posted January 10, 2023 (edited) My TR3A was difficult to start when the engine was up to temperature. This was years ago and on local club outings I had to be push started which worked very well. I finally changed the condenser for a new unit made for racing minis. It cost more than £30.00 but the car has started very well for many years. It would not fit in the distributor so it is mounted nearby. It was a very good piece of advice at the time. But my engine would start when cold. Maybe you need some help with a tow car or friends to push start. Good luck Richard & B Edited January 10, 2023 by Richardtr3a spelling Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted January 10, 2023 Report Share Posted January 10, 2023 I would have a close look at the choke it could have lost it's adjustment or the outer cable has slipped , push it open manually while operating the starter solenoid and see what happens Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Moliver Posted January 10, 2023 Report Share Posted January 10, 2023 Hi John, I have a German season plate and therefore do not drive the car from Nov to April. Usually I do use E10 on all my classics, however to add some fuel stabilized additive for the storage period. Nevertheless, I have had exactly the same problem you have described. It would not start at all several times and when it finally started up, it ran on few cylinders only. The choke did not have any effect. I did this exercise several times and tried to keep it running as long as possible and as sudden it ran without problem. The next wake-up time I have disconnected the fuel line from the carb first and have manually operated the lever on the fuel pump in order to get the fuel out of the prefilter and fuel line upstream to the carb. Further I have taken off the air filters and have manually operated the carb needle. It then started without any problem. Cannot say which of above steps was the key one as I did both at the same . As already mentioned by other gentlemen, checking for dirt in the fuel bowl and cleaning the bowl filter as well is always a good idea especially if your tank has some corrosion already. Checking the carb bowls for such dirt is recommended as well, so is the insert of an additional fuel filter before the carbs… Based on my experience, replacing the entire fuel should not be required if the fuel is not older than 6 months. For much longer periods it is however well recommended. Further, it is recommended to always top up the tank prior to storage and minimize the amount of air in the tank as this will lead to water in the fuel due to condensation. Using starter pilot is just a "wheelers-dealers" method and not recommended at all. The stuff washes down your oil film in the cyl which consequently inreases wear. Hope some of above described will help to bring the TR back to live again. Good Luck! Cheers Oliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spillman Posted January 11, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2023 Hello Responders and Others. May I thank you all for your considered responses, they are really appreciated. At the time of writing I have bought some fresh petrol, and now looking to find time to do the necessary work. I am sure it is the fuel too, it can really only be that..... The time pressure is off a little, as the guy who had shaken hands on buying the car has withdrawn from the deal. So If you, or anyone you know, is interested in buying a lovely 3A, primrose yellow, steel hard top etc etc then please let me know via the forum, and I can supply further details via messaging. I hope to advertise it in the Register in due course, but have previously had trouble uploading pictures, and was unable to complete the job. (Is it just me that has had this problem with photos?) Price of car is c.£24k. Thanks again one and all. Cheers John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spillman Posted January 20, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2023 Hello Folks. An update.... As mentioned above fresh petrol was bought, most of the old stuff was siphoned off and is to be disposed of properly. (Best way to do that?) Flushed out fuel lines, cleaned out float chambers, checked floats for leaks etc etc.....surely it must start......er NO! So moved across to electrics. Not my strong suit. Using a multi meter and YouTube and Google checked points condition and gap. (good and 14 thou). Continuity and voltage of each wire HV and LV. Condition of plugs and plug gap, spark when plug removed and earthed with engine turning over. etc etc. All to no avail! So, might I be right in thinking it could be blocked main jets in the carbs? There is very little smell of fuel after turning over for a long time, and plugs are only slightly damp, indicating no fuel from the carbs? Choke is working OK, jets pulled down when operated from choke knob. If the jets are to be removed and checked for blockages ( there was quite a lot of debris in the bottom of the float chambers) is it a straightforward job? Pin removal looks tricky from the choke mechanism with pins and circlips etc! Any tips, or am I wasting my time looking at the jets. Just to say, the battery is strong, it turns the engine over well. there is no sign whatsoever of it firing....Any thought chaps as always, really appreciated. All the best John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted January 20, 2023 Report Share Posted January 20, 2023 Crud in the bottom of the float chambers isn't good but the fuel pick-off point is a bit above the bottom John, so it might not have got to the jets. If you remove the top of the carbs and lift out the piston and needle (don't mix up the tops as they are matched to the pistons) you can look down into the jet and see if there is fuel present. It should be a few mm below the top when the float chambers are full - the actual distance isn't critical. If you can't see any then there must be a blockage somewhere. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 20, 2023 Report Share Posted January 20, 2023 Old tip, take the air cleaners off and pour a bit of fresh petrol into the carb throats from a plastic cup or similar, it will usually start and run for a bit on that fuel, after a couple of goes it should then run as it will drag the fuel up properly. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted January 20, 2023 Report Share Posted January 20, 2023 ^^^ This. My father would be smiling at the idea of pouring fuel directly into the carb. We did exactly that lots of times when I was a kid! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
R9mey Posted January 20, 2023 Report Share Posted January 20, 2023 (edited) Oops just noticed this has already been mentioned I'll leave it up anyway Similar to petrol I'm carbs but no need to dismantle In this situation I grab a can of easystart spray Turn engine over and spray into intake whilst cranking If there is no kick check for spark and compression and timing If it kicks but stops there is spark and likely compression check fuel and timing If it kicks and runs ... Jump in drive away .... result I'm no mechanic but has worked for me over the years, spark at the right time, compression and fuel should be all you need Don't over do the easystart it's pretty potent not sure what it is, ether maybe Chris Edited January 20, 2023 by R9mey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 20, 2023 Report Share Posted January 20, 2023 Another trick we have used is remove all the plugs and heat them with a blow lamp. Quickly refit ( wearing gloves) and try to start Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 20, 2023 Report Share Posted January 20, 2023 15 minutes ago, R9mey said: Oops just noticed this has already been mentioned I'll leave it up anyway Similar to petrol I'm carbs but no need to dismantle In this situation I grab a can of easystart spray Turn engine over and spray into intake whilst cranking If there is no kick check for spark and compression and timing If it kicks but stops there is spark and likely compression check fuel and timing If it kicks and runs ... Jump in drive away .... result I'm no mechanic but has worked for me over the years, spark at the right time, compression and fuel should be all you need Don't over do the easystart it's pretty potent not sure what it is, ether maybe Chris Not good for your engine though and in some cases they do get addicted to it and wont start without! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
R9mey Posted January 20, 2023 Report Share Posted January 20, 2023 Hmm me to it smells lurvly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spillman Posted January 21, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2023 Hi Folks....Update. Checked the jets using RobH's suggestion. Fuel present so no blockage.......... Bye for now... and thanks again. We keep digging! John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
glasgow4a Posted January 21, 2023 Report Share Posted January 21, 2023 Had a similar problem recently, turned out it was the choke cable not opening fully. Took it out lubricated it engine started right away, good luck Ian. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted January 21, 2023 Report Share Posted January 21, 2023 I still say it's the choke not being pulled down all the way a cold engine with SU's will not start without full choke Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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