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TR6 Clutch master cylinder paint protection tray


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25 minutes ago, Z320 said:

I made a tray for my TR4A myself - because I don’t want any brake fluid on my trousers and carpets 

You can't protect the carpets fully. The pedal levers come through from inside and the tray can't protect against fluid draining down the pushrod and dripping into the cockpit

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+1 for Marco's tray, excellent fit.

Mick Richards 

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11 minutes ago, Z320 said:

A proper working tray on a TR6 should be possible but has to be different than on the photo

Yes different arrangement on TR2-4A.  
RHD TR5/6 has the clutch master cylinder mounted on the top of the bulkhead with a bracket as in the photo.   LHD TR5/250/6 cars mount the clutch slave on the front of the bulkhead next to the brake master cyl and servo.   

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I put mine on a rubber mat worked fine up to now6D953136-64A5-46E6-B93A-A34C71D0510C.thumb.jpeg.7f1abbacc32da3c519b6584fb1fa73b7.jpeg

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Go with silicone and no tray. If it gets on your shoes it will polish them as an added bonus ;-)

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Personally it would drive me nuts having a leak so I have to ask the obvious question but do these clutch master cylinders reconditioned OEM or aftermarket naturally weep/leak from new?  

Any way of fitting a tighter seal/boot to the end of the cylinder/push rod?

Any engineers out there cut an extra groove in the piston to accept another seal?

Andy

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Sorry Andi,

Q#1: this is not a static seal, it is used highly dynamic, sooner or later it can / will leak

Q#2: the boots have a drain hole, you can see this on the photo above; and if not - what to do when the space between is full?

Q#3: see Q#1, and this lip seals are suitable made you the diameter and correct pre-load

 

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14 hours ago, StuartG said:

How difficult is it to fit silicone fluid ?

I.E. can you just flush silicone fluid through once you have drained the nasty stuff out or do you have to replace master and slave cylinders ?

Not that easy, for safety, new rubbers throughout and flush all lines through thoroughly.

Stuart.

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There was an article in Practical Classic either early this year or late last that explained the process. From memory as Stuart says you have to flush with Silicone fluid, bin the first lot and blow the lines through and then refill can't recall if they recommended new rubbers but it would seem reasonable.

Out of interest can you revert back to normal brake fluid or do you have to flush the system etc.

Andy 

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DOT5 has a lower density than all others.

If you simply fill DOT5 it „swims“ on top and the others remain below the bleeding nipple in the front calipers and rear brake cylinders.

I recommend not to use DOT5 by serious reasons.

Ciao, Marco 

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17 hours ago, PodOne said:

There was an article in Practical Classic either early this year or late last that explained the process. From memory as Stuart says you have to flush with Silicone fluid, bin the first lot and blow the lines through and then refill can't recall if they recommended new rubbers but it would seem reasonable.

Out of interest can you revert back to normal brake fluid or do you have to flush the system etc.

Andy 

You would need to do the same as I recommended for conversion the other way.

Stuart.

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