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In the shed this weekend.


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Just now, Keith Wigglesworth said:

Steve, what sort of filter do you use on your 3M mask for two pack? 
Thanks 

Keith

I would never use a mask like that for 2k painting, I always use a hooded paper overall and a full face air fed mask plus gloves, you can ingest it through bare skin.

Stuart.

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On 2/26/2023 at 5:19 PM, Lebro said:

Yes, I removed about ½" from the top end, & made a new PTFE bush to replace the original rather tacky  nylon one.

Although bought from Revingtons the upper column (inner & outer) were made by Bastuk. One problem with the inner column is that it is made in 3 parts, The middle plain hollow tube, & the two ends which are machined with the splines & taper (top end). The three parts are then welded together, & in my case the alignment was not good. In fact I have just got back from my friends house, he has a lathe larger than mine, we used it to enable us to straighten the ends out, with one end in the 3 jaw chuck, & the other end free. Using a blowtorch to heat the welded area the tailstock end was then carefully tweaked in the right direction until it ran true. That worked, so we then did the other end. all 3 parts are now in a straight line !

I intend writing the whole exercise up for TR action once the job is done, taking lots of photos !

Bob

Another problem with the Bastuk inner upper column, The pinch bolt cannot be fitted due to the groove not being wide enough. A simple lathe job for me, but not good for others I suspect.

635645148_Boltwontfit.thumb.jpg.1db2058c85bc82088853811d2f955268.jpg Click on to enlarge

Bob

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2 hours ago, Lebro said:

Another problem with the Bastuk inner upper column, The pinch bolt cannot be fitted due to the groove not being wide enough. A simple lathe job for me, but not good for others I suspect.

635645148_Boltwontfit.thumb.jpg.1db2058c85bc82088853811d2f955268.jpg Click on to enlarge

Bob

Quality control is clearly poor. 

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2 hours ago, Lebro said:

Another problem with the Bastuk inner upper column, The pinch bolt cannot be fitted due to the groove not being wide enough. A simple lathe job for me, but not good for others I suspect.

635645148_Boltwontfit.thumb.jpg.1db2058c85bc82088853811d2f955268.jpg Click on to enlarge

Bob

Metric bolt sized ;):lol: definitely poor.

Stuart.

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3 hours ago, Lebro said:

Another problem with the Bastuk inner upper column, The pinch bolt cannot be fitted due to the groove not being wide enough. A simple lathe job for me, but not good for others I suspect.

635645148_Boltwontfit.thumb.jpg.1db2058c85bc82088853811d2f955268.jpg Click on to enlarge

Bob

My R&P kit came from TRBitz and although I didn’t need an upper column as I have a post 60k TR3a, the lower column that they supplied was a poor fit in the rack because of badly formed splines and the groove too small which necessitated my running a drill through. I fitted a grade 12.9 socket head bolt with a nylon nut and Loctite 270 for good measure to make sure everything was good and tight. 

Rgds Ian

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4 hours ago, Lebro said:

Another problem with the Bastuk inner upper column, The pinch bolt cannot be fitted due to the groove not being wide enough. A simple lathe job for me, but not good for others I suspect.

635645148_Boltwontfit.thumb.jpg.1db2058c85bc82088853811d2f955268.jpg Click on to enlarge

Bob

Will you need an earth return from the horn push through the steering column?   If so bonding leads around the flex/UJ coupling and from the rack to the chassis could well be needed.

Peter W

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I have taken a separate earth connection wire down the column, & through the slip ring to an earth point. The slip ring has 6 connections, so still have 1 spare 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I bought the car in1975 with a noisy axle.   It needed replacing as soon as possible

i built a replacement in LockDown

here we go……..

 

WANTED

One strong TR enthusiast to help lift out the old one and reposition the newly rebuilt axle.

 

 

 

C4471771-E519-43C3-9FCB-699C8BE98C65.jpeg

31A338F6-576A-4C5D-836C-986A5935F5E8.jpeg

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9 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

WANTED

One strong TR enthusiast to help lift out the old one and reposition the newly rebuilt axle.

Last time I did this job, (in 2020) I did it on my own. I have a small trolley made out of scrap timber and some spare castors that I used to slide the axle into place under the car and then it’s just a case of heaving it into place over the springs. 

Rgds Ian

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4 minutes ago, Ian Vincent said:

Last time I did this job, (in 2020) I did it on my own. I have a small trolley made out of scrap timber and some spare castors that I used to slide the axle into place under the car and then it’s just a case of heaving it into place over the springs. 

Rgds Ian

Did you take the exhaust off?  Not a task I relish-----the getting it back in place so it does not hit the chassis

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14 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Did you take the exhaust off?  Not a task I relish-----the getting it back in place so it does not hit the chassis

Just the back box. When I was removing it I struggled for a good hour or so before realised that there was no way it was going to come out with the back box in place.  I also didn’t have the brake drums and back plates fitted because they won’t fit through the gap between the springs and the bodywork.

Rgds Ian

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5 minutes ago, Ian Vincent said:

Just the back box. When I was removing it I struggled for a good hour or so before realised that there was no way it was going to come out with the back box in place.  I also didn’t have the brake drums and back plates fitted because they won’t fit through the gap between the springs and the bodywork.

Rgds Ian

Thank you Ian.

The rear box removal only was what I was hoping to be all that is needed, rather than pulling both silencers out from the cruciform - horror show!

The axle shafts are out and the brakes are off.  Can be seen tied up to the the seat belt mounting bolts in the arch with locking wire.

 

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Peter

if I lived closer I would be at your beck and call. 
 

I am sure there is someone local who can help. 

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I have swapped a 10" braked axle for a 9" one, left the brakes on, but had to jack the body up away from chassis to get the brakes through the gap.

I did manage it on my own, but rather a struggle !

Bob

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5 hours ago, Hamish said:

Peter

if I lived closer I would be at your beck and call. 
 

I am sure there is someone local who can help. 

Yes my brother is visiting tomorrow and knows the job well.  We changed the 4.1 GKN Pow-r-lock lsd axle for a 3.7 Quaiffe unit recently.    I guess my old axle will get built as a spare with a 3.45 Quaiffe set up.   
 

Bit more work this morning.

Axle now clear of car after removing rear exhaust box.

Fitted new bump rebound stops.  Dog pointed 12 cross drilled flange 7/16” af headed bolts to fit the axle shafts instead of the lock tabbed 1/2” af bolts that are near impossible to swing a spanner on.   The bolts will be wire locked so they can all fall out together 

One half shaft needs a SpeediSleeve so that is another 2 person job for tomorrow.

 

 

0DF92A81-3F38-4C43-95E4-CF2093F83ED1.jpeg

9982713E-B0D0-48F0-87AE-4F4EB8604AAF.jpeg

B0B36D24-DBF4-497B-A7FC-835E097A9116.jpeg

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1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Yes my brother is visiting tomorrow and knows the job well.  We changed the 4.1 GKN Pow-r-lock lsd axle for a 3.7 Quaiffe unit recently.    I guess my old axle will get built as a spare with a 3.45 Quaiffe set up.   
 

Bit more work this morning.

Axle now clear of car after removing rear exhaust box.

Fitted new bump rebound stops.  Dog pointed 12 cross drilled flange 7/16” af headed bolts to fit the axle shafts instead of the lock tabbed 1/2” af bolts that are near impossible to swing a spanner on.   The bolts will be wire locked so they can all fall out together 

One half shaft needs a SpeediSleeve so that is another 2 person job for tomorrow.

 

 

0DF92A81-3F38-4C43-95E4-CF2093F83ED1.jpeg

9982713E-B0D0-48F0-87AE-4F4EB8604AAF.jpeg

B0B36D24-DBF4-497B-A7FC-835E097A9116.jpeg

Bolts a bit long?

Stuart.

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1 hour ago, stuart said:

Bolts a bit long?

Stuart.

Compared to original yes.   Dog pointing them allows the extra length to pass through the bearing housing and not touch anything.  So, it is without issues.   I always tap the threads to get them as clean as possible to ease fitment.

My problem now is replacing them as my supplier has closed.  The Austin ‘A’ series  Power Train department at Longbridge.

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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1 hour ago, james christie said:

what does dog pointing mean?

Removing the last few threads leaving a narrower, plain end. 

Any resemblance to part of a dog's anatomy may be pure coincidence. 

dog.jpg.7473a86ca7c1b4eaa3a8b4e7e692778d.jpg

 

 

Edited by RobH
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1 hour ago, james christie said:

Pray enlighten us. If we see much mention of other parts of the dog on this forum, what does dog pointing mean?

james

Dog point is the removal of the threads at the start of the screw/bolt down to a diameter that helps align the thread in the fastener.  As you probably recall the TR has its panels held in place by cone pointed screws.  The cone helps align the screw in the caged nut.

The screws on the left I have turned down to remove the bolt diameters worth of thread to the depth of the thread.   The ones on the right are as supplied.

3D6442E1-296C-46E3-B5BA-262F8247CF1E.jpeg

41826DB5-2A86-47A3-BBEC-9B7D6F2F06BA.png

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Thank you for the explanation Peter!

With respect, the external chamfering tool has a similar effect, and is very easy to use, when I fear that "dog pointing" may need a lathe.

image.png.4dcb26bf40edddecacdaed96a2683a32.png

Mounted in a drill, either hand held or pillar, in a few moments, it will produce a bolt that is easier to introduce that the usual.  I find it especially useful if I have had to shorten a bolt.

image.png.71fb3554cd8a22da702a9708af1fa1fd.png

John

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FWIW the original factory door hinge to "A" post bolts on TR4-6 are also dog pointed.

Stuart.

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Moving on….

Speedi Sleeve fitting.  The support tube is the cross bar from a factory child seat belt kit of a Rover SD1

 

 

Axle is now in and half shaft total end float set to 0.0045-0.005”.  Took a bit of time but got there within an hour.  
Note to self.   Set the half shaft end float with the axle out of the car.   Even taking into account having to re bleed the brakes it would be a lot less stressful on the hands and knees.

D10050D3-A50A-4CD1-9642-66843E7E4D2A.jpeg

B5155BDC-68DB-489F-8F2B-035E16F54445.jpeg

858D1F36-2521-490E-B99B-8FFDE417CC21.jpeg

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1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Moving on….

Speedi Sleeve fitting.  The support tube is the cross bar from a factory child seat belt kit of a Rover SD1

 

 

Axle is now in and half shaft total end float set to 0.0045-0.005”.  Took a bit of time but got there within an hour.  
Note to self.   Set the half shaft end float with the axle out of the car.   Even taking into account having to re bleed the brakes it would be a lot less stressful on the hands and knees.

D10050D3-A50A-4CD1-9642-66843E7E4D2A.jpeg

B5155BDC-68DB-489F-8F2B-035E16F54445.jpeg

858D1F36-2521-490E-B99B-8FFDE417CC21.jpeg

Yes the end float setting is always fun and your right so much easier on the bench.

Stuart.

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  • 4 months later...

Due to my lack of familiarity with metric and owning a mini mill that has only metric scales I decided a 3 axis DRO would enable imperial to metric switches without the use of a calculator   Fitting has taken about a week of odd hours  

It all works fine, all I need to do now is set the direction of operation.

Also fitted a gas strut in place of a clock spring to support the head.

 

IMG_5035.jpeg

IMG_5034.jpeg

IMG_5033.jpeg

IMG_5032.jpeg

IMG_5031.jpeg

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