Ian Vincent Posted April 30, 2020 Report Share Posted April 30, 2020 Bob, I have the Revington "Caged" roll bar with the diagonal. To me it just made more sense to triangulate the structure. I don't find that the diagonal is an issue, it doesn't get in the way at all. As has already been mentioned it came with the necessary nuts and bolts and the plates that bolt under the wheelarches. It was easy to fit, the only thing I had to do do was pull in the front legs slightly to get it to sit properly on the curve of the wheel arches but that could have been because I had rebuilt the RH rear of the car with a new inner wheel arch because the original had more holes than metal. I used a spanish windlass to do that, (Google it). I had a tonneau made to fit by a company in Ivybridge, Devon - they made a good job of it, if you want a photo let me know. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted April 30, 2020 Report Share Posted April 30, 2020 +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 30, 2020 Report Share Posted April 30, 2020 Big drill bits I do have ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 30, 2020 Report Share Posted April 30, 2020 We have a very good trimmer just round the corner in Bookham. I'm sure he could modify my tonneau. Looks like an order will be placed then ! Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EliTR6 Posted April 30, 2020 Report Share Posted April 30, 2020 Another vote for the Revington kit. Fitted mine in a couple of hours. Plates are nice and solid and only a little fettling was required to get everything lined up. E Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rod1883 Posted April 30, 2020 Report Share Posted April 30, 2020 (edited) Another vote for the Revington bar with diagonal and harness bar - it was item number RTR9048HBK when I bought mine at the end of 2009. It seems that the numbering system on the Revington site has changed. Mine was made by 'Caged' I don't know if Revington still source from them? I had a tonneau custom made by 'Soft-tops for Sevens' a local firm specialising in - well what their name says really (Lotus and Caterham rather than Triumph TR) Edited April 30, 2020 by Rod1883 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted April 30, 2020 Report Share Posted April 30, 2020 Any good trimmer can modify the existing tonneau velcro is very useful. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 30, 2020 Report Share Posted April 30, 2020 Done. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 30, 2020 Report Share Posted April 30, 2020 3 minutes ago, Hamish said: Any good trimmer can modify the existing tonneau velcro is very useful. Just dont expect it to be waterproof round the bars. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted April 30, 2020 Report Share Posted April 30, 2020 1 minute ago, Lebro said: Done. Bob. Well done Bob birthday present to self. not that you need an excuse. have fun fitting. i will admit to loosing a spanner when I fitted mine. Turned up after a drive. Still on the bolt Doh !! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted April 30, 2020 Report Share Posted April 30, 2020 3 minutes ago, stuart said: Just dont expect it to be waterproof round the bars. Stuart. Can’t have everything. Didn’t want gaiter style “boots” around the bars, it’s not in the rain often when it is the whole drivers side is open anyway. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 30, 2020 Report Share Posted April 30, 2020 Just now, Hamish said: Can’t have everything. Didn’t want gaiter style “boots” around the bars, it’s not in the rain often when it is the whole drivers side is open anyway. It can be done more subtly than that with inner tube type rubber but not many trimmers will do that unfortunately. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted April 30, 2020 Report Share Posted April 30, 2020 7 minutes ago, stuart said: Just dont expect it to be waterproof round the bars. Stuart. My tonneau is very similar to Bob's (but with pop studs instead of velcro) and initially I thought rain water ingress would be an issue but I have found that very little water gets in even in quite heavy rain. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted April 30, 2020 Report Share Posted April 30, 2020 1 minute ago, stuart said: It can be done more subtly than that with inner tube type rubber but not many trimmers will do that unfortunately. Stuart. Do you have any pictures Stuart? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 30, 2020 Report Share Posted April 30, 2020 2 minutes ago, Drewmotty said: Do you have any pictures Stuart? Unfortunately not, my trimmer has long since retired and he did it for my old Derrington built 3a which I sold to a guy in Portugal about 25yrs ago. (Definitely one of those cars you wish you never sold!) Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BigBogan Posted May 1, 2020 Report Share Posted May 1, 2020 Sorry if I'm trying to teach old and new dogs any kind of tricks, but if there's any chance you are going to roll the beast, then you really want not just a nicely fabricated bar and strong mounting feet, but to remain breathing you really need to have it attached to the chassis, and for that chassis mounting point to be very well reinforced.. A minor roll-over that puts you on your side or inverted, when we all get up and have a laugh about it is quite a different proposition to a barrel roll or end-over at speed, when anything bolted to sheet metal will tear off in an instant, and the next thing to go is your nicely styled wig. Aesthetics aside, our cars are old and not that strong or safe in a major crash - the more we can do to stiffen and strengthen the driver/passenger compartment works in our favour as drivers. It is still possible to have more discreet yet more functional roll bars fitted, but it costs a bit more for custom fabrication. How much is your or your passengers' life worth? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted May 1, 2020 Report Share Posted May 1, 2020 Sorry BigB but this thread is mainly aimed at getting TR owners to think about the everyday risk which would encompasses an easy going inversion after a minor off at speeds that wouldn't categorise anybody as driving like an idiot. The way most TRs are used these days (yes we know there are driving gods amongst us where legislation and the laws of physics don't apply) the idea that a TR turning over is caused by it exiting a corner at 80-90 mph with smoke streaming from the tyres before it flips shedding panels, coffee cups and occupants arms thrashing about is likely to be an odd occasion. Most inversions happen at relatively low speeds being caused by a soft surface causing a wheel to dig in, or a kerb or grass edging being enough to trip the car and inertia taking it over which is still enough if not to kill you can cause major injuries. I did have a small log of TR accident shots some taken by me and others which had been posted upon this forum and others, however since the Photobucket debacle and the loss of my many library items I've had to search myriad postings made by myself through and linked with other forums and just found this photo hidden within one of my files of a sub 30mph rolled side screen car without a roll cage, unfortunately I can't find any note of any owner or who took the photo (I didn't) so I hope the occupants escaped unharmed. I understand the comments relating to the aesthetic aspects of a roll cage fitment, but I just cant prioritise the flowing lines of a car over myself and families safety. The rear roll cage gives good protection when linked with an alloy rear firewall behind the cockpit and good safety belts, even though we all surely agree with you that an integrated system including linked side bars to an under dashboard hoop is even more desirable for safety. All drivers make their own decision, and I regard a rear roll cage, alloy firewall and good safety belts as the minimum that my family will be protected by. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted May 1, 2020 Report Share Posted May 1, 2020 (edited) I can match Mickey's pic and see him with these pics, trumping your comments, Bogan! OK, it's not an open car, but my old Silverback Vitesse Estate, that I had fitted with a thin GRP roof and doors, to acheive an all-up weight of less than 850kgs. At it was competition, although untimed practice, not a race. I was hit in the side by a Group 2 Porsche on the second Halzenbach curve of the Nurburgring. He span me and I rolled, at least twice, losing both doors and the front of the roof. Undoubedly, I was saved by my roll cage. That was mounted to MSA specs into the footwells front and back, plus rear braces to the wheel arches, with full backing plates. As seen, none of the uprights tore through the floor. I have many more pics of the damage, which totalled the car, but I've reached the miserly limit imposed on this board! I'l give way to no one, Bogan, in my enthusiasm for well made and fitted roll bars, but fitment to the chassis is not required. Else, what would any modern monocoque car do? JOhn Edited May 1, 2020 by john.r.davies Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted May 3, 2020 Report Share Posted May 3, 2020 On 4/28/2020 at 6:20 PM, ntc said: For me involved in rallying for many years I would never use a car unless the cage was linked to chassis, I have seen some of these aftermarket so called roll hoops and they are a joke, on your head be it as they say. More than one comment that the roll over bar needs to be linked to the chassis, does a solid body mounting support suffice for normal road going stuff, or does the original need help? I have a roll over bar bolted down on to the body mounting plate behind the seats, and both body mounts have 2mm side wall steel tube inside the original tube, and welded at the ends. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted May 3, 2020 Report Share Posted May 3, 2020 On 5/1/2020 at 4:44 PM, john.r.davies said: I can match Mickey's pic and see him with these pics, trumping your comments, Bogan! OK, it's not an open car, but my old Silverback Vitesse Estate, that I had fitted with a thin GRP roof and doors, to acheive an all-up weight of less than 850kgs. At it was competition, although untimed practice, not a race. I was hit in the side by a Group 2 Porsche on the second Halzenbach curve of the Nurburgring. He span me and I rolled, at least twice, losing both doors and the front of the roof. Undoubedly, I was saved by my roll cage. That was mounted to MSA specs into the footwells front and back, plus rear braces to the wheel arches, with full backing plates. As seen, none of the uprights tore through the floor. I have many more pics of the damage, which totalled the car, but I've reached the miserly limit imposed on this board! I'l give way to no one, Bogan, in my enthusiasm for well made and fitted roll bars, but fitment to the chassis is not required. Else, what would any modern monocoque car do? JOhn Well roof fitted and still a right off, says it all and a monocoque shell is different reinforcing plates just try and strengthen the mounting point the shock is spread though the shell. John road car or not a roll is a roll no matter what the body mounts are not up to it alone in std form. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted May 3, 2020 Report Share Posted May 3, 2020 (edited) 38 minutes ago, ntc said: Well roof fitted and still a right off, says it all and a monocoque shell is different reinforcing plates just try and strengthen the mounting point the shock is spread though the shell. John road car or not a roll is a roll no matter what the body mounts are not up to it alone in std form. Try again, ntc. I can't understand what you are saying. If you are saying that a monocoque is stronger than a Triumph's body on a chassis, then in terms of crash survivabilty, by retaining a 'survival cell', you might be right. But open and even closed Triumphs don't have that strength. In this pic, showing the damage to the roof after the Nurburgring incident, you can see that the front of the roof and windscreen surround are completely torn off. The upright behind the left A-pillar is bent, the foot was not pushed down through the floor, despite landing on that corner thus causing the destruction of the roof and bulkhead. The body mounts were likewise undisturbed. The write-off was because the bulkhead had no windscreen surround, the roof was destroyed, the rear door ad bonnet severely damaged, the rear tub so dented and the tail fins bent that they weren't worth repair, but the floor mounts were undamaged. The chassis was undamaged, too! I have it yet. My roll cage, and the reinforced floor mounts were sufficiently strong to be my survival cell. If it had not been there, I would have landed on my head, with the car on top of me. The driver of this car was very nearly much unluckier, Triumphs are fragile cars compared to moderns. Despite this, I do not advocate a full roll cage for a road car, but a roll hoop that will protect the occupants in an incident only very slightly worse than the video above. John Edited May 3, 2020 by john.r.davies Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted May 3, 2020 Report Share Posted May 3, 2020 ""John road car or not a roll is a roll no matter what the body mounts are not up to it alone in std form. "" Hi Neil, I'm not disagreeing with you at all. What I said was my roll over bar bolts down onto the original body mounts, and that I had reinforced said mounts by inserting 2mm sidewall tubing of a tight O/D into said mounts and welding around the end. Would that, in your opinion, suffice or should I do more, and if so wha? A picture would be a great help if possible. Cheers, John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted May 3, 2020 Report Share Posted May 3, 2020 Seeing the Vitesse and the Herald reminds me of a friend of mine in the early eighties. He rolled a Vitesse convertible on the Remenham Hill into Henley. Wearing just a standard over the shoulder 3 pt seat belt......he lost a significant amount of his scalp and 2 and 1/2 fingers if my memory serves me right. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted May 3, 2020 Report Share Posted May 3, 2020 56 minutes ago, John Morrison said: ""John road car or not a roll is a roll no matter what the body mounts are not up to it alone in std form. "" Hi Neil, I'm not disagreeing with you at all. What I said was my roll over bar bolts down onto the original body mounts, and that I had reinforced said mounts by inserting 2mm sidewall tubing of a tight O/D into said mounts and welding around the end. Would that, in your opinion, suffice or should I do more, and if so wha? A picture would be a great help if possible. Cheers, John. John The very least I would do is a inbound plate with gusset welded under the roll bar plate and over the chassis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted May 3, 2020 Report Share Posted May 3, 2020 Ah, Thats great Neil, many thanks. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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