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Dave Herrod

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About Dave Herrod

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  • Location
    Lymington, New Forest
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  1. I'm working in this area as well, but unfortunately don't have the metal working skills of you guys. My tub was repaired with a NOS stanpart rear panel, but I don't think the chap doing it for me checked the angle of dangle against the rear wings. Consequently, the lower rear corner of the rear wing where it meets the rear panel needs to move forwards by about 20mm. At the moment, my plan is to cut off the flange and then reshape/ trim the wing to match the rear panel and make up a new flange to be welded in. However, I have noticed that the alignment is very dependent on the length of the
  2. Just for the record.... My eBay offer on this was accepted and I picked it up yesterday. The rear light is, in fact, perspex as suggested by the photographs. I was a bit disappointed that it wasn't glass, but not particularly surprised, and it was clearly a genuine mistake by the seller. The top appears to be very solid and straight and will be a much better starting point than the very rusty one I had started to repair, so a good deal all round. I wonder if there really were glass ones. Dave.
  3. Thanks Iain and Stuart. I happen to have some suitable hardwood tucked away in the garage, so will start there. Now to explore lead loading! Dave.
  4. I am just at this stage and on a bit of a learning curve - give me mechanicals/ electricals any day. What does anyone recommend as not too expensive blocks to use for blocking the panels? There seems to be a whole range of rigid/ less rigid, fixed abrasive/paper, cheap/expensive. All recommendations gratefully received, thanks Dave
  5. Does anyone happen to have a NSF wing in reasonable condition that they would be willing to sell? Dave.
  6. Congratulations! The start of a big adventure.
  7. I have learned over the years that, as with boats, that is one of those calculations you should never do. However, you have achieved an incredible amount in a short space of time and now have a car that you know inside out and which should be reliable, you should be proud of yourself. Added to all that, you have also kept us all enthralled with your reports....well done, and thanks! All the very best with the upcoming adventure. Dave
  8. Now that is sobering - 2009 was the last time my TR was on the road! I think I pitched up after the photo, but remember it well.
  9. Jeff, A fantastic job, and a brilliant write-up. I will be following in your footsteps, but probably not for a good few months. I currently have the choice of a pretty shabby original screen or a repro one of distinctly dubious quality which, if I use it, will certainly need trimming. Please could you add the code for the seal that you ended up using for future reference. Dave
  10. Ah, I hadn't realised that. I was thinking that they couldn't have changed the position too radically as hard tops would not have fitted. It seems all they actually did was make the guide plates cheaper. Thanks for all your help.
  11. Rod, I had already spotted that, thanks. In fact, I now have various photographs - each with lines drawn on them in a possibly over-optimistic effort to verify the fixing position. David, thanks for your very kind offer. Unfortunately from memory, I think you are a long way away from me. I wonder whether it would be possible for you to take a couple of dimensions - similar to Ralph's earlier post? The first would be the distance from one of the guide plate fixing bolt holes (the small ones between the slots) to the rearmost point of the scuttle panel, and the second would be where a
  12. Brian, I too have been re-acquainting myself with the inside of the steering box. Along the way, I seem to have amassed a small collection of steering box parts - although none of the scrolls is much better than yours. If you need anything that is NLA, shout up. Dave
  13. I think I may have found part of the answer in the later posts of this thread. Am I right in thinking that the earlier bracket picks up a hole in the cross tube mounting? Dave.
  14. I thought I would have a nice easy job today installing the steering column on my TR3A, having re_ built the steering box and painted up the column. Try as I might I simply couldn't get the down-stand bracket on the steering box past the chassis cross bar. Hours later, I have succeeded only in scraping off most of the paint, and the column is still on the bench! I knew that I took the column out and replaced it previously, so I was stumped. I came up with the following theory: The car was originally LHD and, I suspect, had a split column with the type of lower bracket that is welded
  15. Thanks Ralph, I had thought it might be. The centres of the Dzus fittings seems to be the same as the later mounting bolts, but I had thought that the stanchion was a pretty close fit to the scuttle without the guide plate when I offered it up. I suspect I may need to lift them slightly, and was going to cut out a pair of dummy guide plates to make sure. Does anyone has an early shell from which they could take similar measurements just to confirm? Not drilling just yet!
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