Jump to content

Dave Herrod

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Dave Herrod

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lymington, New Forest
  • Cars Owned:

Recent Profile Visitors

366 profile views
  1. Hamish, Please do keep posting! I will soon have the body of my car back on the chassis and will be trying to fit up a hardtop and the windscreen at the same time as the mounts for the latter had corroded so much we had to cut them out completely. Your trials and tribulations will, I'm sure, be very useful! Keep up the good work. Dave.
  2. Thanks Wayne, I knew I was being dim!
  3. I am conscious that this has the potential to be one of those...."doh, why didn't I see that" posts, but.... The new search facility doesn't seem to allow you to narrow the search to a particular forum and also seems to come up with every post in a thread rather than just the thread. The result is that it is a lot harder to find what you are looking for. Seems to be a bit of a backward step....or am I missing something. All suggestions (within the new forum rules, of course) gratefully received. Dave
  4. David, Drop me a pm if you aren't already sorted. I certainly have a couple of spares, but haven't looked inside them for some time. I seem to recall discovering that the drop arms/ scrolls from some aren't interchangeable with others as the radius of the junction to the shaft is different. I did post on this once, but it was years ago. Dave.
  5. Thanks Mick, that was more or less my plan. I won't be able to get at it for a couple of weeks, but will report back with photos.
  6. Thanks for the further replies. I should have said, it as a four cylinder engine. Dave
  7. Thanks both, I will make haste slowly! Fortunately it is still a bare chassis, so relatively easy to take it to pieces again. I will take out the engine and gearbox, split the two, and pull off the flywheel and have a good look before I leap into taking the crank out. It may take some time as I am working away at the moment and only get a couple of hours each weekend to work on the car. Dave.
  8. It was all going so well! I restarted my new engine today to run in the cam....all went well apart from an alarming amount of engine oil leaking out of the bell housing. I am assuming that it is the rear oil seal, but won't really be able to tell until I have pulled the gearbox and flywheel. Looking ahead, I am thinking I will be able to disconnect the big ends and take out the crank to replace the seal, leaving the head etc. in place. It has a replacement split oil seal conversion. Any thoughts and suggestions as to other possibilities gratefully received. Cheers, Dave.
  9. Barry, Congratulations - it's a shame that the video didn't show the grin on your face. I was at the same point last weekend - it really is a great feeling when it all works. Dave
  10. Thanks Tom... it really does sound great. Now all I need to do is put the body on .....and everything else! Dave
  11. After far too long since building an engine that I bought in parts, yesterday was the day for the big start up. (I had taken the head off again to make sure that the valve gear was still lubricated, and I was happy that the graphogen would still be in the bearings). The timing was set up as per the book, I had fuel at the carbs, spark present (albeit a bit weak), span the engine without plugs and oil pressure came up quickly, installed plugs, hit the solenoid and.......nothing except a half-hearted back fire. Hmm must be ignition somehow. Replaced plugs, points and condenser and ....still nothing except a slightly louder backfire. Took distributer out to make sure I hadn't got it 180deg out - nope all as per the manual. Then, working through the HT leads, it struck me that they were all 90 degrees out of phase in the distributor cap - odd as the distributor and cap had come off my original, very worn but working, engine. Having re-positioned the leads in the cap, it started on the first press of the button! I then looked at my old engine and it seems that whoever put it together had installed the distributor drive with cylinders 2 and 3 at TDC, not 1 and 4! I am really chuffed that it started and it sounded beautiful (thanks Tom), but it took so long to find out the problem, I didn't have time to break in the cam. I didn't let it idle and am hoping that the time spent turning it over hasn't bu99ered the cam or followers. Dave
  12. Thanks for the replies. I have tried CTM, but Colin doesn't do anything off the shelf. At the moment I am toying with the idea of fixing something to the chassis bracket and making the connection to the engine pipe using a stainless steel flexible connector - as discussed by Alec in an earlier post. In theory, this will also take care of any undue strain on the manifolds. I will also look at the saloon/ stag set up, though. When I finally get there, I'll post my solution! Dave.
  13. Hi, I am using one of CTM's J type gearbox mounting adapter brackets to support the after end of my J type gearbox on a TR3A - it replaces a rather nasty welded lash up that was originally there. There does not, however, appear to be any obvious way of fitting an exhaust pipe bracket. I have tried a couple of brackets without success and will probably end up fabricating something bespoke. Before I do so, I wondered what anyone else had done and whether anyone had a photograph. Any advice gratefully received. Cheers, Dave.
  14. Thanks all for the replies. I have never used sealant in the past, but suspect that the standard manifold is a little more forgiving than a tubular one. I think I will try with the standard gasket that I have, perhaps with a graphite or copper grease. If I have a problem I will try something else. Interesting thought about ensuring greater flexibility elsewhere. Dave.
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.