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Dave Herrod

TR Register Members
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    258
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About Dave Herrod

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  • Website URL
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Profile Information

  • Location
    Lymington, New Forest
  • Cars Owned:
    Sailing
  1. Dave Herrod

    New Search?

    Thanks Wayne, I knew I was being dim!
  2. Dave Herrod

    New Search?

    I am conscious that this has the potential to be one of those...."doh, why didn't I see that" posts, but.... The new search facility doesn't seem to allow you to narrow the search to a particular forum and also seems to come up with every post in a thread rather than just the thread. The result is that it is a lot harder to find what you are looking for. Seems to be a bit of a backward step....or am I missing something. All suggestions (within the new forum rules, of course) gratefully received. Dave
  3. Dave Herrod

    Steering box and column

    David, Drop me a pm if you aren't already sorted. I certainly have a couple of spares, but haven't looked inside them for some time. I seem to recall discovering that the drop arms/ scrolls from some aren't interchangeable with others as the radius of the junction to the shaft is different. I did post on this once, but it was years ago. Dave.
  4. Dave Herrod

    Crankshaft oil seal leak.

    Thanks Mick, that was more or less my plan. I won't be able to get at it for a couple of weeks, but will report back with photos.
  5. Dave Herrod

    Crankshaft oil seal leak.

    Thanks for the further replies. I should have said, it as a four cylinder engine. Dave
  6. Dave Herrod

    Crankshaft oil seal leak.

    Thanks both, I will make haste slowly! Fortunately it is still a bare chassis, so relatively easy to take it to pieces again. I will take out the engine and gearbox, split the two, and pull off the flywheel and have a good look before I leap into taking the crank out. It may take some time as I am working away at the moment and only get a couple of hours each weekend to work on the car. Dave.
  7. Dave Herrod

    Crankshaft oil seal leak.

    It was all going so well! I restarted my new engine today to run in the cam....all went well apart from an alarming amount of engine oil leaking out of the bell housing. I am assuming that it is the rear oil seal, but won't really be able to tell until I have pulled the gearbox and flywheel. Looking ahead, I am thinking I will be able to disconnect the big ends and take out the crank to replace the seal, leaving the head etc. in place. It has a replacement split oil seal conversion. Any thoughts and suggestions as to other possibilities gratefully received. Cheers, Dave.
  8. Dave Herrod

    Engine Rebuild - First Start

    Barry, Congratulations - it's a shame that the video didn't show the grin on your face. I was at the same point last weekend - it really is a great feeling when it all works. Dave
  9. Dave Herrod

    Engine start up - who'd have thought it?

    Thanks Tom... it really does sound great. Now all I need to do is put the body on .....and everything else! Dave
  10. After far too long since building an engine that I bought in parts, yesterday was the day for the big start up. (I had taken the head off again to make sure that the valve gear was still lubricated, and I was happy that the graphogen would still be in the bearings). The timing was set up as per the book, I had fuel at the carbs, spark present (albeit a bit weak), span the engine without plugs and oil pressure came up quickly, installed plugs, hit the solenoid and.......nothing except a half-hearted back fire. Hmm must be ignition somehow. Replaced plugs, points and condenser and ....still nothing except a slightly louder backfire. Took distributer out to make sure I hadn't got it 180deg out - nope all as per the manual. Then, working through the HT leads, it struck me that they were all 90 degrees out of phase in the distributor cap - odd as the distributor and cap had come off my original, very worn but working, engine. Having re-positioned the leads in the cap, it started on the first press of the button! I then looked at my old engine and it seems that whoever put it together had installed the distributor drive with cylinders 2 and 3 at TDC, not 1 and 4! I am really chuffed that it started and it sounded beautiful (thanks Tom), but it took so long to find out the problem, I didn't have time to break in the cam. I didn't let it idle and am hoping that the time spent turning it over hasn't bu99ered the cam or followers. Dave
  11. Dave Herrod

    exhaust mounting with CTM J type gearbox adapter

    Thanks for the replies. I have tried CTM, but Colin doesn't do anything off the shelf. At the moment I am toying with the idea of fixing something to the chassis bracket and making the connection to the engine pipe using a stainless steel flexible connector - as discussed by Alec in an earlier post. In theory, this will also take care of any undue strain on the manifolds. I will also look at the saloon/ stag set up, though. When I finally get there, I'll post my solution! Dave.
  12. Hi, I am using one of CTM's J type gearbox mounting adapter brackets to support the after end of my J type gearbox on a TR3A - it replaces a rather nasty welded lash up that was originally there. There does not, however, appear to be any obvious way of fitting an exhaust pipe bracket. I have tried a couple of brackets without success and will probably end up fabricating something bespoke. Before I do so, I wondered what anyone else had done and whether anyone had a photograph. Any advice gratefully received. Cheers, Dave.
  13. Dave Herrod

    exhaust manifold sealant

    Thanks all for the replies. I have never used sealant in the past, but suspect that the standard manifold is a little more forgiving than a tubular one. I think I will try with the standard gasket that I have, perhaps with a graphite or copper grease. If I have a problem I will try something else. Interesting thought about ensuring greater flexibility elsewhere. Dave.
  14. Dave Herrod

    Glue/cement ?

    Very neat!
  15. Dave Herrod

    Glue/cement ?

    Pete, I'm not sure I completely understand what you are trying to do, but I would look at the marine adhesive/sealants. Sikaflex 292 is one of the most widely used and does work very well, but there is a practical boat owner test on line that came up with sabatack 750 as the best for bonding metal. Alternatively, back in the day, gripfil was a very good solvent based adhesive in the building industry that used to stick almost anything to anything. I know it is still sold but, as Alec points out, it could well have been "watered down" Let us know how you get on. Dave.
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