rvwp Posted February 12, 2020 Report Share Posted February 12, 2020 Hi Guys. Advice needed on how to fit/secure the pesky dust cover to the back plate that comes with the cylinder retaining kit. It can't be held under the clips as the cylinder would not be able to float? There is no lip to hold it over the three clips when in position? Other that being held at one end where it passes through the handbrake lever, it's just left to float which does not seem to be correct. Advice wanted. Thanks Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted February 12, 2020 Report Share Posted February 12, 2020 (edited) Hi Rich, I'm just working on that (seal unsealed), I can show you how I do this. First make shure your seal looks like this (the one on the photo, 10 years old, I had to prepare with a scissors) Put the brake cylinder through the back plate and fit the medium sized, bended spring plate with the tooth outwards. This gives you enough play to tip it and to put the leaver in its position. Next put the the "distance washer" in its postion and the rubberseal around the spring plate: The spring plate slides on the back plate and the locking plate covers / holds the seal when you slide the locking plate it between the others, slide it until "click" To open it I always press down the bendeded spring washer and pull out the locking plate. When ever I do this I think a small drill in the locking plate may be useful to pull it - but I never made one. I never give any punch on the "distance washer", in my opinion it is not the locking washer or safety washer as often told, it is a retaining washer and slack part of the cylinder, otherwise you don't get the cylinder through the back plate. Have much success, Marco Edited February 12, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rvwp Posted February 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 Thanks Marco for spending time to give a very detailed explanation on how to do it. The WS manual gives no explanation at all. I see where I am going wrong, its in the sequence of installing the 3 locking plates. I will have a go today and report back. Again thanks Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted February 13, 2020 Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 Yes Marco, well done for this , it will help many folk for a long time. Cheers, John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted February 13, 2020 Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 (edited) You are welcome, please use some grease where metal slides on metal, I use "Ate" brake grease (german producer), do not use repro steel parts when zinc coated, this is only mild steel, best use the original parts. Edited February 13, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted February 13, 2020 Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 (edited) The description in the TR2/3 Workshop Manual is superior to that in the TR4 WSM - so I have made a copy and placed it in my TR4 Manual. Excellent blow-by-blow guide from the ever-helpful Marco! Ian Cornish Edited February 13, 2020 by ianc Praise for Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rvwp Posted February 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 Thanks again Marco. Did the job in 5 minutes this morning. So simple when you know how. Well done, great Forum. Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted February 13, 2020 Report Share Posted February 13, 2020 (edited) You are welcome, last one is how to open this §$%&/?! mechanism, because this can make a strong man desperated Stick two small screw drivers between and with this you have two "ramps" to slide the locking plate over the tooth Take a pliers and pull the lock plate out Here a small drill and a hook would be helpful Edited February 13, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nobbysr Posted February 17, 2020 Report Share Posted February 17, 2020 Hi Marco Tried yesterday and it worked very well the only thing i would suggest is to use a little bit of calcium based grease or copper slip , the items supplied were phosphate coated not zinc plated , so a little grippy . Most calcium greases are water resistant and should stop the plates rusting together cheers Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted February 17, 2020 Report Share Posted February 17, 2020 Hi Steve, your answer makes me very pleased. Yes, grease them where metal slides on metal. And yes, the "spring plate", "locking washer" and "distance washer" (Rimmer) are made of black coated spring steal - and have to be like this. When I bought them new some years ago they went straight to he bin because they have been made of zinc caoated mild steel. Currently it seems they are not in this cheap quality on the market. Sorry me if my short post caused any questions. Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Oddball Posted February 17, 2020 Report Share Posted February 17, 2020 What a great thread Marco. These informative and clearly explained replies should be held in a separate folder on the forum. I’m not keen on to many pinned items as it tends to get a bit messy. Any thoughts? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted February 17, 2020 Report Share Posted February 17, 2020 I will reply on behalf of Marco (If you allow me Marco ):) The German TR forum has a place on their website when this sort of info is kept for future use. It is in German language off course, but the concept is good. As an example, MX5 brackets can be found there. The information in there are not “validated”, but I take a look there to see what fellow TR-ers do for often re-occurring issues. Here is a link: https://tr-freun.de/phpBB3/viewforum.php?f=86 Marco, any additional thoughts? Gruesse, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted February 17, 2020 Report Share Posted February 17, 2020 (edited) Hi Waldi, indeed the TRiki at the TR -Freun.de Forum is a very useful thing, and if you have a closer look so find some posts from Z320 there. Sadly you newly can only see photos there when you are registered AND locked in. So international visitors only find endless text in a foreign language... Indeed a TRiki could also be useful for the english TR register forum, but in my opinion (sorry for that) only with a new and different structure of this forum. Currently this / my post is on top of the big heap "general technic" forum and soon it will be lost there. I would like to find it at the more specific "brake" forum, next to other forums like "electric", "fuel", "front axle", "suspension", "steering", "tools", "out and about" - and so on. For example: you want to work on the front axle, so you find all posts about that at the front axle forum. And at the entrance forum you see the last for example 20 posts of all forums, so you not have to visit all forums to see whats new. And this also has to work on smart phones. I already suggested a new structure for this forum several times, as you and others perhaps realized. Ciao, Marco Edited February 17, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted February 18, 2020 Report Share Posted February 18, 2020 It would be nice if the TR Register can assess if this is possible. I think the amount of extra work for the moderators should be considered too. They are volunteers, we should keep that in mind. Cheers, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Oddball Posted February 18, 2020 Report Share Posted February 18, 2020 14 minutes ago, Waldi said: It would be nice if the TR Register can assess if this is possible. I think the amount of extra work for the moderators should be considered too. They are volunteers, we should keep that in mind. Cheers, Waldi Very true. I actually convert the threads to pdf and store them locally. However that’s no use if you happen to miss the small window of time when the thread is easily seen. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mick Forey Posted February 19, 2020 Report Share Posted February 19, 2020 Wayne has kindly uploaded the series of photos and explanations onto the website under Resources / Technical Manuals https://www.tr-register.co.uk/past-issue/2020/02/0116/Girling-rear-wheel-brake-cylinder-dust-cover-fitting-guide so that all members can easily find this excellent work by Marco. It would also make an excellent article for TR Action. Mick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted February 19, 2020 Report Share Posted February 19, 2020 (edited) Thanks to John Morrison, Brian-r, Mick Forey and off course Wayne! And off course to Marco. I hope more in-depth posts like this will follow and can be saved for future reference. Marco, you have a pm. Cheers, Waldi Edited February 19, 2020 by Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted February 19, 2020 Report Share Posted February 19, 2020 Hi Mick, thank you for that and also for the idea for an article. My english is not so good, so if someone whats to write the article for TR Action I give the photos free and can mail them in full solution. I will use them also for an article at our german TR IG Magazin, some time has past since I did wrote one…. Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted March 1, 2020 Report Share Posted March 1, 2020 Hi Marco, Very useful and timely post. I'm in the process of overhauling the brakes on my 6 and noticed that the dust seal was missing on one side. I have ordered a seal and would have been puzzling on how to fit it when it arrived. Problem solved. What a great forum this is . Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted April 4, 2020 Report Share Posted April 4, 2020 I had all mine done before reading this. Took a bit of head scratching to work out the correct sequence for the plates, and one of the new items was that hard it shattered whilst fitting, luckily still had the originals which seem a bit "bendier" than the new items. I fitted the rubber seal last, and was able to stretch it over the plates and tuck it into the groove at each end OK. so it didn`t get in the way whilst fitting the plates. What ever works for you I guess. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 Hi Ralph, great if you found yourself the way how it works best! With the seal you can go both ways, I fitted it earlier because I did not want to stretch the old rubber to much. Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JochemsTR Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 Little bit confused....before I saw Marco's post I already installed the rear brake plates.. Buckeye Website installs the top locking plate from the non-lever side.... Marco's installation is from the lever side.... any particular reason for this difference? Do both work? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 (edited) Hi Jochem, you can use it both ways around, for me the way I do the whole thing it works better my way. Indeed I know this description from Buckeye since years and I have a different look on that. They punch in / out the "locking plate" and this in my opinion is both "disadvantageous". 1st this damages the alloy of the brake cylinder and the "locking plate" itself and to work this way is a pain. I'm shure at the factory they did it not this way. 2nd the "locking plate" locks nothing, it only safes itself from self sliding out. The whole assembly works without it but it will be slack. So in my opinion - it is a distance washer / plate.... needed because of the way you have to tip the cylinder with the bended spring plate already on it to get leaver still under it. The real locking mechanism are the both big plates made of spring steel. So I not do this due to the Buckeye description with punch and hammer. Edited April 5, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted April 13, 2020 Report Share Posted April 13, 2020 I would put the “distance washer” in first then the spring plate. You will still have enough play to fit the lever but much less of a struggle to get the small "distance" washer in. The ends of these are curved up quite a bit on some of the kits which makes sliding them in once either of the other two retaining clips are in place quite tricky. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
michaeldavis39 Posted June 7, 2020 Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 (edited) I have just used these instructions--there needs to be a slight ammendment - you cannot fit the spring plate with the lever in position! So order of assembly should be: 1.distance washer 2. spring plate 3. lever 4. rubber seal 5. locking plate with liberal amounts of copper slip applied to it and then you will need a punch and hammer to tap it into place as its a very tight fit! Michael Edited February 11, 2021 by michaeldavis39 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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