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Mick Forey

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Mick Forey last won the day on March 12

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About Mick Forey

  • Rank
    International Director, TR Register

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  • Location
    Castle Donington
  • Cars Owned:
    1972 Pimento Red TR6
    1956 Black TR3

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282 profile views
  1. I am with Sean on this one, I found it easier to get the bushes in first and then slide the metal bush in afterwards. The lack of metal bush gives the poly somewhere to compress into when the end flange it is being compressed. I used both the socket and vice method plus the threaded rod method, both were useful at different phases. Everything nice and clean and smooth and loads of silicon grease everywhere also helps. Mick
  2. A few years ago I fitted a Piper "yellow" cam a mild, high torque, cam for touring in my beloved TR3 as the old one had worn out, badly. I also had the carbs re-built by SU Burlen. As the cam was non-standard I took the car to Pete Burgess in Alfreton for him to set up the timing and mixture. I had done it according to the book but he squeezed some more performance out of the engine by tweaking both but not by much. I was a happy bunny and the car drove even better, returning good torque and 35-40 mpg on a tour. The only issue was that I had no idea what the ignition timing was set up to at what speed so I could reproduce this later. Therefore I purchased a Gunson timing gun with advance feature model 77008. Got a good steady reading at idle but it jumped around a bit as the engine speed increased. I decided to plot the results on the ignition advance curve in my Service Instruction Manual for the TR2 (with addendum for TR3). The first point at 500rpm was measured at 8deg BTDC, right on the top tramline, the next at 1000rpm was 12deg BTDC, again a perfect spot on the line. Then it all went seriously haywire as I measured 20deg at 1500prm and even 28deg at 2000 rpm. I then ran it at about 4000 rpm for a few sec and measured 42deg BTDC. I did not understand the result, see the photo attached. I then realised I had not disconnected the vacuum advance, I did this and repeated the above and got the same result on the four measuring points, what is going on? Clearly the vacuum advance does nothing under these conditions, I thought it should. So I checked the movement of the backplate, yes it does move against the spring and I heard the sound of air being moved by the diagram. I checked the centrifugal advance weights and springs were still in place, yes all looked OK. The rotor arm moved OK against the springs. Can the timing light be faulty? Am I picking up a false signal? I tried the pick up on No. 4 HT lead and got exactly the same result. Have I got the correct dizzy for the car, is the chart in the book correct? I am now at a loss of what to do next. The car drives brilliantly and if I had not bought the timing gun I would still be happy or blissfully ignorant. Anybody got any ideas what is going on here? Mick
  3. If anybody has any problems dealing with the DVLA or wants some help registering your car then please contact Graham Andrews, the club's V765 Registration Officer on v765@tr-register.co.uk. He is very knowledgeable, helpful and he knows who to talk to to get things fixed. Mick
  4. This is the event in Osnabruck mentioned a few times: https://www.tr-register.co.uk/event/2019/06/1335/TR6-Day-Osnabruck-2019 As you see it is organised by the TR Register Deutschland. The main event hotel is fully booked but there is still plenty of other hotels nearby so if you want to join the many cars coming from across Europe then contact the organisers and register for the event. See you there, Mick
  5. For those who want high capacity UJs and nice splines all done for you at a good price then I can recommend Proptech, 81, Hartlebury Trading Estate Kidderminster DY10 4JB, on 01299 251247. No website - good old fashioned engineering company that mainly does industrial and commercial propshafts. Peek into their workshops and some of their stuff makes our propshafts and half-shafts look very puny. Very friendly and efficient service. No connection but a satisfied customer over many years. Mick
  6. My TR6 has made the same horrible noise on 1 in 10 to 20 starts since I bought it in 1980. I was advised to change the starter ring when I overhauled the engine sometime in the early '80s - made no difference, still did it and still does it to this day. The starter is original and has never been apart: 130, 000 miles and 47 years, not bad Mr Lucas but why does it do it? It is an embarrassing noise as it really only does it when there are people standing around the car admiring it before you set off. There is a law governing that coincidence. Mick
  7. Mick Forey

    Bump stop

    If there is still a harsh bang when going over bad bumps have you checked the free travel? Mick
  8. Mick Forey

    Bump stop

    Yes, you do not want the shock absorber to limit the travel in either direction as this puts the bump load through the shock absorber, which can be high, and its not designed for it, nor is the mounting. I know that lack of SA travel has caused some SA failures or a cracked chassis. You don't want either. Careful measurement and testing without the spring in place is required, even with well proven kits as sometimes things can change during production. I suggest you need to prove that without springs or bump stops fitted there is no limitation of travel until at least 75% of the depth of the bump stop. Incidentally, are you are doing this for track use? Mick
  9. Sadly it is still a manual process as the two systems don't talk to each other. In this wonderful world of connected IT we would like to find a solution so that we only have one log-in, can verify your membership and instantaneously give you access to all the member benefits and areas across all platforms. Sounds easy? Apparently not but it is still on the to do list. More change equals more money spent on IT. Mick
  10. I agree, be very careful on the curves. Polishing machines can go through paint really quickly on a sharp convex curve, don't ask me how I know. Mick
  11. They did not expect any car to last much beyond 10 years on the road!
  12. Roger, thanks for the info. I presume the pressing still has the relevant square hole cut out in a TR6 CR door. Been a while since I looked closely at the door with the door card off. Mick
  13. Tim, the issue is that a very similar, but wrong part, is often already made for some other car so that is what is offered to us at an attractive price. We buy them and don't complain enough, so they keep being supplied. I guess, in some ways, we are our own worst enemy. Roger, a part not available? Is this a job for International Rescue, sorry SDF? I can't imagine the demand is high so probably not. Is there a bodge solution that works? Mick
  14. I found that when trying to fit the door cappings the internal shape did not match the door so the glue area was much reduced plus their strength was poor, so eventually gave up. I have looked at fitting TR4/4A chrome door pulls. Any advise on the best source and where/how to fit them? Mick
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