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About Nobbysr

  • Birthday 05/06/1956

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  • Cars Owned:
    71 Triumph GT6 mk2 stage 2
    70' MGB GT,
    58 Tr3a

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  1. many thanks Peter, that makes sense, will check the B&B part nos to see if it a 4/4A cluch the casing has got me wondering though cheers Steve
  2. Hi Folks Am interested in your opinion on this one.. i am finaly getting round to finishing my gear box but have noticed some stange issues . 1) The Gearbox number is MB 33934, on the other side of the casing is 306812 SM, it looks identical to a TR4 casing. its 4 syncro box with a dipstick gear selector housing ?? O/D on 2nd 3rd and 4th i am woundering if its a Triumph 2000 casing ?? 2) The T.O.S that came off the car was a phos bronze item which had an RHP 14w 2 1/16 thrust bearing I purchased a new sleave and bearing from moss mainly as the old one had no rotation pin bu
  3. I alway check them Stuart as some of boxes i have rebuilt are on their second or third build . While i was apprenticed toolmaker i made a Taper gauge for a GT6 /Spitfire and TR3/4/2000 syncro cones which made life more easier to check, which i think i still have . . On my own box, which is a 4 syncro box i replaced the clutch in the o/d , all the bearings in the gearbox but left the syncros... 18 month later 3 and 4 cones needed replacing, and 2 of the 3 springs in 1 and 2 hub had failed, i should taken my own advice, if its apart check it . So far I have found the Premium syncro con
  4. Yep would totally agree doesnt look to be much wear at all, how ever as you have it apart !!! Check the flywheel face with a straight edge and dial gauge if you have any doubts .Having got it apart its worth checking .. had to have mine refaced and it was worth the effort
  5. It may well, be the syncro cone and the hub springs , it happoened to my box and was the only items i didnt change when i rebuilt the gearbox. I replaced all of the syncros cones with the betterquality items from Rimmer bros but the car is under going a full resto so i cant comment if the Rimmer iutems are any better .... yet cheers Steve
  6. Hi Richard Are these photos any use, the rear brake pipe has been re-routed to the correct chassis hole wheel cyl install.pdf
  7. I find it all pretty depressing that we used to be able to produce quality tools in this country , now its just so much rubbish. But sound like halford has been listening to people who use their tools a refreshing approach !
  8. i use a 2lbs lead mallet courtesy of thor hammers, great service as well cheers Steve
  9. Hi Mick Britool stuff used to be good but it seems that their stuff is now made to a price. I still have whitworth/BSF ring and open enders from 70s I used on very large power presses .. not much call for them now though but very good .. What are the main failures, sockets, ratchets or ring spanners ?? cheers steve
  10. I used a large countersunk Allen screw and then nut, washer and bolt , works quite well. i used some forming grease, but tapping grease will do a similar job . It helps the metal to form more easily with out scoring rgds Steve
  11. Thanks Stuart really appreciate your help Wasn't joking about the glasses, old age I'm afraid, but the last shots a good un's .. plus i have a new prescription which has made a real difference . As i think i mentioned there were a few photos on the interweb where owners had used the large hole with grommet, so there are some future surprises in store. I made the mistake of buying a really good second hand chassis with the pins still in place which should have raised suspicions . One came out really easily but the other beat induction heating, direct heat and drilling, so i ende
  12. Probably my eye sight Bob i do need new glasses either way Im happier that the smaller hole is the better option . I did an internet trawl and did find a few photos where owner had used the larger hole with a large grommet all the best steve
  13. Ok Stuart I did try and use the larger hole as an experiment and the Brake pipe does interfere with the spring front eye bolt and would need to be bent significantly to clear the bolt
  14. hi Graham looks like you have used the larger of the two holes which may cause proiblems if you to change the the sping or the eye bolt
  15. many thanks Stuart The small hole makes absolute sense, presumably the chassis clips hold the pipe sufficiently enough to prevent the pipe rubbing on the edge of the hole all the best Steve
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