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Nobbysr

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About Nobbysr

  • Birthday 05/06/1956

Profile Information

  • Location
    Oxfordshire
  • Cars Owned:
    71 Triumph GT6 mk2 stage 2
    70' MGB GT,
    TR6
    58 Tr3a

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  1. Hi Marco Tried yesterday and it worked very well the only thing i would suggest is to use a little bit of calcium based grease or copper slip , the items supplied were phosphate coated not zinc plated , so a little grippy . Most calcium greases are water resistant and should stop the plates rusting together cheers Steve
  2. Perfect Stuart that exactly what I was hoping for
  3. Does anyone please have a photo of how the rear brake pipes are routed i have purchased an Automec kit and i am either routing the pipes incorrectly or the n/s to o/s pipe is too short the manuals for the 3A are really short of photos and info on the A variant the pipes are copper Nickel wi stainless fittings for reference i am using a loctite anti gauling compound which is superb regards Steve
  4. Many thanks everyone much appreciated , your help . has confirmed that the cage nut is on the wrong side .... Life takes yet another dump in my dinner .. seriously your assistance has been a big help cheers Steve
  5. Hi Stuart , I will putting a sample of the oil through our labs to check it out. My gut feeling is that is has additional cetane improver which is commonly used in diesel oils to lower smoke it will be a couple weeks before we can test the oil but i will ask Neil if i can share the results with the forum steve
  6. Ceramic coating a branch exhaust manifold manifold would significantly reduce the engine bay temp but its not cheap steve
  7. Can some please help with a pic of the RHD master cylinder pocket .. i believe it has a captive nut but i'm not sure if ithe nut sits on the engine bay side or the interior side all the best Steve
  8. Hi every one The difference between an EP 90, gear oil and and SAE40 Engine is pretty much in the chemistry . The viscosity(thickness) are fairly close at operating temps , a 20w/50 oil will be thinner at ambient temperature to allow the oil to circulate around the engine much quick at low temperatures . An SAE40 engine oil will thinner, at ambient temperatures that an EP 90 at but the viscosity should be similar at operating temps EP 90 gear oil are pretty much GL 1-5 performance, , typical a GL5 will have significantly more extreme pressure additive that a limited slip diff GL1 will have . There used to be a view that EP oils caused O/D clutches to slip but i use a 75w/90 gear oil in my rebuilt 3a o/d box and have had no slipping but a good quick engage a ta low temp operation , if you don't use the car in winter use SAE90 An engine oil tends to use anti-wear and ant-scuff additives, put not much extreme pressure additive they can also have friction modifiers in them which doesn't help the O/D clutch . Engine oils also have detergents and depressants to clean the engine of combustion material and to hold in suspension till the oil meets the filter..The smell you get from gear oils is the Sulphur Phosph ep additive. I would rater use an ep oil in a gear and o./d ... think of the pump, gears and bearings in an O/D .There was a theory that EP oils attacked bronze but these day its very rare. Its also worth remembering that modern O/D clutch material is better that the 50"s material... in short it isnt the oil I would check the Relay then connectors are clean, then the isolator switchs with a battery and light bulb, then the solenoid if they are all working then the check the O/D filter (big brass nut on the bottom
  9. If you are using a gear oil it has VERY low levels of dispersant and detergency but does have antifoam additives,, Detergents and dispersants are present in engine oils to clean insolubles from the internals and to hold them in suspension. (and are not relevant for gear oils) so that they collected in the filter or are removed when the engine oil is drained . Gear oil additive packs contain , anti-wear additives, extreme pressure additives, anti-foam and anti oxidants. The anti-wear additives and Extreme Pressure additives are different and some EP additives don't start working till friction builds to 140C+ during shock loading There are many additives in engine oils that are not present in gear oils and most are redundant in gearbox applications. .There are a number tests that can be used to demonstrate the gear oil performance but most are not carried out on automotive oils, if its possible to get an FZG rating for the engine oil and 11> or <12 is good marker / Most Militaries have engine oils that can be used in gearbox applications but they tend to be monogrades as apposed to mutigrades. As I mentioned before the VI improvers used in multigrade engine oils sheer down in gearboxes, however multigrade gear oils 80w/90, 85w/140, 75w/90 do hold their viscosities well .. I would also mention that base oils are as important as the additive pack, so buying a cheaper oil can be a poor choice. longer term...The Castrol Classic range are good as are the Shell automotive range, E.M and Gulf oils.. I can provide more info if anyone is interested or is as sad I would check O/D pump pressure and purchase a major branded 80w/90 API GL4 or 5 gear oil. The gear box temp operates hot, due to proximity of the exhaust. I run shell spirax 75w/90 which uses sheer stable base oils and have had no problems but please be aware that even if your mileage is low a 2- 3 year oil will suffer additive depletion.
  10. I can tell you that amount of foaming is not good and can cause micro pitting and cavitation, leading to pump failure, All Gear oils should have an indicated air release time which is expressed in mins , so you can check if the product meets that spec.. Moving to a multigrade 20/50 will give you a lower viscosity than an EP 90 and a different EP additive, Zinc instead of Sulphur Phosphorous . The lighter product should release air quicker . A simple way to test is to place a quality of oil in a clean bottle at a known temp , shake and then time the oil till it clears. and repeat with each oil . I would add that air entrainment can be increased by solvent contamination , water contamination, pump drawing air and reduced anti-foam additive. Silicone anti-foam additives deplete over time ... one of the many reason you should change the oil.The addatives in gear oils are more suited to shock loading than engine oils, so would stick with a gear oil .. The viscosity improvers in multigrade engine oils shear down in gear boxes, effectively reducing the viscosity. Re engine oils in gearboxes . There were some concerns, at the time that some of the active Sulphur Phos additives caused pitting in Phos bronze and the friction modifiers cause O/D clutch slip. I would that the chemistry of the additives has changed considerably and that O/D clutch material has also improved, so these should be less of a problem. I use a 75w/90 in my 3A but I have rebuilt the gear box and O/D . Filling was done with the top cover off and all seals were replaced with Viton seal and I have no issue in 8 years . cheers NOBBY
  11. I used an anti run on valve on a stage 2 MK11 GT6 the valve was an MGB pt number, but was essentially an overdrive solenoid with a filter. When the ignition was switched off power activated a relay, timer which opened the run-on valve for 10 second then closed . Its not as complicated as it sounds but completely stopped run on , The valve was mounted on a bracket and a hole drilled and taped into the manifold was connected via rubber hose. Will try and dig some photos out . I did fit one to a TR6 and again it sorted the problem . I believe the MGB valve was part of kit which was developed for the US market cheers Steve
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