That was a year that was..

[Mk2 Chopper]

I think they look so much better than the mx5 seats (in a Triumph TR). Good work.

Gareth

[Bfg]

7 hours ago, MilesA said:

If the originals were headrest versions I might have have been tempted to reinstall them.

Unless you can barely see out of the windscreen - the headrests on the TR seats are too low to serve their intended function anyway.  Cosmetically I feel they add a little robotic humour to a car with a Surrey-top backlight ..but any car with its soft-top down may (depending on one's preferences) look better without them.  If a tonneau cover is frequently used (perhaps over the passenger seat when driving solo) then it would have the bump pockets for those headrests. Those being in the right place can be an issue unless it is made bespoke, or you're prepared to adjust the seat every time you fit it. 

Food for thought perhaps.

Pete

[stuart]

20 hours ago, MilesA said:

Interesting Pete.

. As you say, one sits 'in' the seat. I suspect that is why when sitting 'on' the MX5 seats I find that I lose the top portion of the the view in the central rear mirror and find myself ducking slightly to get the full view.

 

Miles

That problem of sitting on rather than in those seats is usually down to them having been refurbished with too much padding in the squab, I ve come across this a few times with them. My original untouched MX seats are much lower in the squab and fit me perfectly and Im 6` 4"

Stuart.

 

[Bfg]

Mine hadn't, to my knowledge, been refurbished.  They came off ebay and I just cleaned them up and changed colour of the centre squab panels from light grey to black and retouched scuff marks and creases.  The squab's side bolster, on the gearbox tunnel side, is a bit too flat, which may make them feel as if I'm less sitting into them.  I wonder if perhaps yours also feel softer and more comfortable because they are cloth rather than leather.

Pete 

[Bfg]

Not much happening this week (aside from our local TSSC club meeting tonight at the Sorrel Horse, Barham, IP6 0PG) but with classic cars it’s impossible not to notice how very insecure they are,  so in addition to my everyday Autolok  handbrake to gearbox lock ..for when the car is being left unattended in a more vulnerable location - I've just bought one of these. . .

This steering wheel immobiliser is the higher security Pro  model of the Stoplock range, which gets good reviews (NB. their Elite model of the same device has a deep offset for fatter steering wheels). After looking on-line, including for a second-hand one, I bought this new (with 2 keys) from Halfords. They presently have them with a £10 off RRP, and then another 10% off when buying on-line and free postage over certain order value. In total it cost just a few pence under £35 delivered.  

 

Either or both is of course only a deterrent, especially when steering wheels on classic cars may be wood rimmed with easily snipped through aluminium spokes, but it is quick n' easy to use, and an obvious nuisance to would be joy-riders, even though you may otherwise have an ignition immobiliser. 

Because it's universal fitment - it also means that I can use it on other cars. Who knows I might even configure it around the frame and through the spokes of my motorcycle.

Food for thought perhaps ..and a great price from halfords. 

Pete

p.s. I’m not telling the insurance company because they’ll insist it’s always on the car when parked.

 

 

Edited November 7, 2023 by Bfg

[RogerH]

Hi Peter,

if you do a YouTube search there is a locksmith that can get into them in about 20seconds.

 

But that is on a bench with good light

 

Roger

[Bfg]

..and how long without one ? 

[Mk2 Chopper]

I have a full disk lock that goes over my steering wheel that locks over it. 

I did have the hand brake gear stick lock, but I figured all they have to do is unscrew the gear knob to remove. 

Gareth

[Bfg]

23 hours ago, Mk2 Chopper said:

I have a full disk lock that goes over my steering wheel that locks over it. 

I did have the hand brake gear stick lock, but I figured all they have to do is unscrew the gear knob to remove. 

Gareth

I decided against a full disk lock, either for the steering wheel or a road wheel only because I supposed they are heavy, more bulky, and less quick to fit.  As I'm often running late for wherever I'm meant to or want to be.. the latter was not such a good plan.  

apparently the Autolok should have a steel ring, grub-screw-locked onto the gear change lever, which cannot be accessed / undone with the lock, collar around it.  If you don't have this.. it seems ; if you weld the articulated joint of the lock - to permanently fix it (in its maximum bent position) for the TR in first or third gear - it likewise cannot then be pulled upwards and over the top of the lever (sans knob).  When unlocked and with the jaws opened it can still be removed easily enough.   

Pete

 

[Andy303]

Pete:

Returning to your TR6 seats, I have these fitted to my TR4A also. Something you may find useful are the seat belt guides offered here:   https://clarkandclarkinc.com/catalog/

detail/seat-belt-guide

[Bfg]

Thanks Andy,

I had tried leather seat belt guides with the Mazda seats ..but found they didn't work, insomuch as the leather snagged the belt and it all then twisted.   Conversely a seat-belt running through plastic would most likely run much smoother, and the octagonal shape to match the headrest stem would prevent it from twisting.  

Nice one - Cheers.  

Pete

[gloide69]

If you were to have an accident, would those plastic guides snap?

Paul

[Bfg]

...depending on the accident and the properties of the plastic.  If the line of the seat-belt run is a straight line from the shoulder, though the guide, to the upper seat belt mounting then there wouldn't be much to break it.  In worse case scenarios, the guide would hopefully bend rather than break off.

Pete

[RobH]

15 minutes ago, gloide69 said:

If you were to have an accident, would those plastic guides snap?

 

If you look at the suppliers photo the lower one shows them mounted  so the guide is directly on top of the seat-back. 

Edited February 22 by RobH

[Andy303]

Luckily I have never tested them en extremis, but I doubt they would break as they are made from  a tough but not brittle plastic.

I have retracting belts and these help to keep them from getting tangled and bunched up.

The guide is designed to fit the headrest stem exactly. It is the same design used in headrests as found on BL products of the era, and I have used these on a Series 2 E-Type for example.

Edited February 22 by Andy303

[john.r.davies]

Andy,

The pic in your second post shows a  better orientation of the guide.   It should be firmly against the top of the seat back, else in  extremis, as the guide bends under strain, the belt will allow your upper body to lean forward further that it should, risking collision with the steering wheel.

John

[stillp]

I wonder if these things, being a modification to a safety device, should have type approval. Does the insurance company need to be notified?

Pete

[Andy303]

16 minutes ago, stillp said:

I wonder if these things, being a modification to a safety device, should have type approval. Does the insurance company need to be notified?

Pete

I am not familiar with British laws on the subject, but headrests and retractable seat belts were never fitted when these cars were built, so I do not see how such regulations would apply. If people are nervous about the thing, don't use it. I will state my opinion based on experience that the guide provides a smooth path over the top of the seat and should enhance the operation of a retractable belt system.

[stillp]

You're probably right Andy, but some insurance companies seem to be very good at finding excuses to refuse claims...

I've seen some seatbelt guides that look positively dangerous to me.

Pete

[Andy303]

3 hours ago, stillp said:

You're probably right Andy, but some insurance companies seem to be very good at finding excuses to refuse claims...

I've seen some seatbelt guides that look positively dangerous to me.

Pete

Too right. Insurance companies are not in business to pay claims if they can weasel out of them.

[Bfg]

If, as apparent by the logo, those available are clones of OE equipment BL products, then they were inevitably used on a compatible seat (with same headrest).  However if in doubt, at least in the UK, have your car MOT'd. 

Personally speaking, I've known seat belts fail an MOT because of edge fraying or other damage, because they doesn't run freely, or because their body mounting is compromised.  The MOT inspector is in the business of checking seat belts and their mountings ..and even after-market / replacement items and those upgraded to recoil have to work within approved guidelines. 

If the tester advises against your particular seat belt runner ..then you'll know to rethink it.   If they say nothing, even when pointed out - then I think it fair to accept, they are good to go.  If then you happen to tell the insurance company, I doubt if they will even bother to make a note of it, let alone refer the matter to their underwriter. 

Pete

[john.r.davies]

The OP. Andy, hails from the US, where there is no national "MoT", and state Vehicle Inspection criteria vary from loose to none at all.

Hence the many extraordinary entries in the YouTube channel "Just Rolled In": 

 

[Bfg]

^ It's March and in anticipation of using the more frequently this summer ..I'm back at it..  This time working in the barn. Although too spacious and draughty to heat, it's a useful workspace surrounded by quiet and attractive Suffolk countryside.

^ Since the chassis swap I've never been happy with the springs and the suspension's ride height, I swapped them before from those M&T fitted and it helped but it still wasn't right.  Although good for country lane driving - the car has a tendency to float at high motorways speeds (as if the front wheels are lifting). So.., out with the springs also supplied by M&T and back in with the springs the car came with, as bought. . .

^ I seem to recall comparing the length and compression of the black springs when I fitted them.    I reasoned that the black ones, having a greater number of coils would have been softer, but that was not the case.   Using a pile of storage heater bricks to do that, they each compressed the same amount under the same load. 

^ After a 10 mile test drive the car looks to be sitting the same as it was before, but a high speed run down the A12 left me with the impression that it is now directionally more stable.  I checked the car's tracking and it was spot on.  I'll leave it as it is and see how i get on with it over a period of time. 

- - -

Moving on to the next task..

^ Some may recall my mentioning that I made the mistake of driving the car with the front (TR6) clamp of the Surrey top lid being undone.  This was back in November when I was running out in the car to try its different seats.  Tucked away under the sun visor I didn't notice the clamp was undone ..until  WHAM  the half lid suddenly opened as I was accelerating up to open dual-carriageway speeds and slammed down onto the boot lid.  The force was enough to bend the 1/4" screw, rear fastening, but thankfully despite the noise - the roof and boot lids were barely marked.  The fibreglass backlight frame however was ripped apart as it was twisted 180-degrees back on itself.  If the rear screen rubber had not been gooed in with some sort of structural black mastic - I guess the roof panel with this section fibreglass would have flown off to pose a threat to following traffic.   I was furious at myself at the time, but in retrospect can see how fortunate I was. 

^ This weekend, with my lid's T-bar first removed, I released the trim for access to the backlight's fastenings.

^  it's a long time since I last saw her topless.  

    

^ The barn is useful but it's also a 20 mile round trip from home, so I've brought the backlight home to work on it.  Although where I now live has an integral garage, I won't want to be grinding glassfibre in it. So my first task was to cut the lawn and then tidy and clear my garden shed / polytunnel as a workspace.  The lawn seemed the safest place to remove the glass.  Before doing anything else I indexed the distance (cut marks) either side of the damage with a hacksaw. 

     

^ The damage looks no better in the daylight !   I had to cut through the mastic to get the glass out.  It's now been set aside for safety.  I would not be at all chuffed if I were to drop it on a paving slab.

^ Moving to a more comfortable working height, the glassfibre now unsupported by the glass is only held in place by threads of vinyl trim on the inside and the black mastic which was used to hold and seal across the top of the glazing rubber.  

   

^Removing the vinyl was what I imagine skinning a snake would be like. The black mastic could only be cut away.  As you can see, even through the paint its bond was strong enough to rip the corner of the fibreglass out.  

  

^ The quality of fibreglassing is appalling, insomuch as the hard corners have no glass in them at all.   I think just clear gelcoat had been used to fill the corners of this frame ..which is not at all structural. Inside that is a very thin layer of fibreglass chopped strand mat.   I guess it did its job. Or at least it did after I fitted a T-bar ..to prevent it twisting, but for the price charged for these things I would have liked to have seen better.  

Unless someone has a backlight frame going ..that I might afford to buy - my task is now to try and fix it.  It'll be 'a challenge' to do it well ..sort of like trying to mend a broken and chipped vase.  Rainy weather yesterday and today is not helping motivation, but it needs to be done.   

Pete

 

 

 

Edited March 11 by Bfg

[stuart]

I dont know when that one was made  but I do think the quality of the Honeybourne mouldings have definitely gone downhill over the last few years, possibly due to the takeover who knows but for the price now which is pretty near double what they were when I bought mine ten or more years ago theyre very disappointing. I dont know what the quality of the Revington ones are like as they have theirs made by someone else but with all of them its getting near worth saving up for a real one either an original or a Revival new one.

Stuart.

[RogerH]

Hi Peter,

If I was in your position I would complain back to the vendor, HoneyBourne, complete with photo's and what you think of the condition.

Explain that you are a member of the TR Reg with many members that bought these and probably many more to come.

 

I'm sure it will fall on stony ground, but you may feel better.

 

As for the repair - assemble the bits and pieces using metal strips and self tappers.

Do a TRial fit then fibreglass repair.

 

Roger