Jump to content


TR Register Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

About Andy303

Profile Information

  • Location
    Chardon, Ohio USA
  • Cars Owned:
    1967 TR4A SRA
    2015 Mini Cooper S

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Andy303


    Reading this thread got me to wondering what I have been using all these years. On this side of the pond the bad old green stuff is still widely available at any parts store and most big box stores. I went out in the garage and took a photo of the label. A no brainer? I had thought so...
  2. Here is another manual that may be helpful. Regarding the throttle spindles, the bushing in the carb body can also wear to the point that even with new spindles there is still too much air getting by. With the engine running try spraying carb cleaner or WD40 on the bushing and see if the RPMs change. I believe that .005 clearance is the maximum wear. I replaced my old Strombergs with new Burlen SU HS6 and out of curiousity I measured the new ones and found the play to be in the range of .002 to .003 with a dial indicator, which is the factory allowance. Even with this there is small amount there is a slight, detectable "wiggle". tuning_stromberg_cd_carburetters.pdf
  3. Todd: The 175CD carbs found on our TRs do not have an enrichment disc, but use a simple bar to lift the air valve when the choke is applied. Attached are extracts from the Owner's Handbook for reference. You should not touch the jet bushing (Item 12) to adjust the jet height - only the knurled/slotted knob of the jet adjustment screw on the very bottom (Item 13). The starting setting is to run this up until the jet is flush with the bridge (or bone as you called it) and then down 3 full turns. If there is fuel leaking around the jet adjustment screw then the o-ring is damaged and must be replaced. The bushing you mentioned (Item 12) is only to b disturbed if you have to make an adjustment for centering the needle. This is explained in the attachment. The air valve when lifted should drop back without any binding. Ideally both carbs should have the same drop. TR4-Stromberg-Adjust.pdf
  4. Todd: Regarding the vacuum advance port not showing any vacuum at idle, that is as it should be as the drilling is blocked when the butterfly is closed. It only comes into operation when the throttle is open. When you say that you rebuilt the carbs, did this include new throttle shafts and bushings? Your description of the problem is similar to one I experienced on my car where the front carb had a lot of play and wear on the throttle shaft resulting in air leaks and being near impossible to tune at idle. Using the usual technique it demanded more and more lowering of the jet meaning that it was far too rich under running conditions. Another possibility, assuming you rebuilt the carbs off the car, is that there is an air leak on the manifold gasket(s) on that front carb incurred during re-installation. BTDT.
  5. Jim: Don't overlook the importance of the rear shocks. I think the TR4A SRA is particularly sensitive to the quality of the lever shocks due to the "unique" mounting geometry that was inherited from the IRS design. I plan on installing up-rated ones in the spring. On my car I found that with the right side one was nearly devoid of oil and the car squirmed to the right on acceleration and then back to the left when I lift off . Topping up the shock improved things but it still has a tendency to yaw a bit. The spring shackle bushings may be suspect as well. This yawing may have been exacerbated by the presence a front anti-roll bar. I have only had this car since last April and while it looks great it sat unused for many years and I am still sorting out a lot of abuse and neglect from the previous ownership on the mechanical side. Stuart: Thanks for relaying your experience. I see the spring clamp on the rear, is there one to the front in a similar location, i.e. past the end of the lowest leaf?
  6. Here is an interesting tutorial on handling corrections from the Mid Ohio region of the Porsche Club of America (MORPA). Fairly generic and should apply to TRs as well as 911s, I think. http://www.morpca.org/drivers-education-guide/understeer-oversteer/
  7. In Kas Kastner's TR4 Competition Preparation Manual a front anti-sway bar, Triumph Part No. 510584, is recommended for both track and street use. Kas states that when using an 11/16" diameter bar " cornering power is greatly increased". It will keep the rear tires in better contact and increases understeer, as Mick describes above. Kastner recommended using a limited slip differential and changes to the steering geometry for negative camber. He also recommended the installation of torque rods on the rear live axle springs to minimize windup. Regarding the TR4A IRS he says that a rear sway bar was still in development. This version of the Preparation Manual is dated from 1965. Some of the same information was also described in a 1962 article from Car and Driver that is reprinted in the TR4 Brooklands book. The attachment was downloaded from Paul Anderson's excellent website: http://tr4a.weebly.com/ TR4 Competition Manual-1.pdf
  8. Marco, By "theeted" I presume you meant "toothed" or gezahnt? Thanks to google translate: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=google+translate English "tooth" and German zahn have the same "roots" (there is a pun there): https://tinyurl.com/wu4utwp Many thanks by the way for your many useful and informative posts. Andy
  9. Keith: I attempted to remove the old bushings but they were so stubborn I was afraid that I would damage the outer tube which is not that robust. I figured they old ones were not going anywhere, but for peace of mind it would probably be best to remove them if the column is on the bench. My inner shaft also had some wear on it but not enough to warrant replacement. There is a tiny bit of play, but acceptable. The real horror show was that the slop in the inner column had worn away the plastic insulation from the light switch leaving the copper wire exposed. Which explains why the previous owner had done some elaborate rewiring of the lighting circuit.
  10. The most likely cause is that the inner column bushings (Item 8 in the diagram) are badly worn, which is common. If the car has sat unused for a long period it is unlikely there will not be much axial movement as rust will have seen to that. If you remove the steering wheel and shine a light down the inside of the column it will be obvious. I found this to be the case on my car. The upper inner column comes in two pieces, marked 1 and 2 on the diagram, one inside the other, which provides a range of in and out adjustment. On my car these were frozen solid from lack of lubrication and use. Likewise the splines on the couplings in the lower column, which required a lot of penetrating oil and some persuasion to come loose. There is a technique to do the bushings in situ : http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SteeringColumn.htm Because of the fore mentioned problem with seizure I ended up removing the column anyways to disassemble and lubricate the sliding inner column. It is a very precise fit and reminded me of a rifle bolt. You can search the Register or google TR4 or TR6 column bushing replacement and find a lot of discussion. One idea, which I followed, was the leave the old ones in place and install new "uprated" delrin bushings at the very top and at the base of the outer sheet metal column. Revington sell the uprated ones that can be installed as original.
  11. Andy303

    Cylinder head

    Would be worth it if the sealing process helped to prevent oil leaks around the push rod tubes.
  12. Referring to the Moss USA diagram the Tecalemit filter needs a spring (55) and the pressure plate (52) to function. I recently installed the Moss spin-on conversion and removed the Tecalemit filter head and used a Purolator one instead. The Purolator uses a thicker sealing ring and seems less leak prone with the spin-on. So far so good, no leaks. BTW if you should contemplate a spin-on conversion now is the time. It is MUCH easier to do and ensure that the old seal is gone with the filter head on the bench. Also much easier to get the recommended torque (11-12 lbs) on the adaptor bolt on the bench. I had to dig out my old Sears Craftsman in-lbs torque wrench. I just checked the Tecalemit assembly that I removed and it has the spring but the pressure head is gone. I wonder if I threw it out with the old filter by mistake...
  13. Jim: My '67 TR4A is very late production, CT77156L, and the catch assembly (item 76) has the steel loop for the safety catch. However the pin assembly on my car appears to be the earlier type without a safety catch lever on the bonnet. My car was restored previously so I cannot be sure that it came that way from the factory. I recall reading somewhere that the pin assembly is longer on the later TRs. The mis-match may be a potential stuck bonnet in the making. Stuart: I agree that the safety catch is not really needed. May have been/most likely mandated by Federal regulation and commonized in all subsequent TRs. The safety catch is on every Detroit product that I can recall from that era.
  14. The idea of using a bilge blower to enhance air flow under the bonnet to cool the carbs is explored in some detail in a number articles like this one at the MGA Guru site: https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/cb208.htm and here: https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/cb208b.htm The MGA has air duct fittings under the bonnet that lend themselves to this type of set up.
  15. On a related topic, and I apologize if I am hi-jacking this thread, what are some good techniques for adjusting the bonnet catch mechanism so it does not jam and prevent the bonnet from opening regardless of the presence of an emergency release? Just before I put my TR4A up for the winter when I drove it to the storage facility the bonnet refused to open for the first time in my experience. I was able to get it open with some help pushing down on the rear corners. My assumption is the rather bumpy road I had just traveled on upset the alignment of the catch. One method involves masking tape over the catch plate and smearing the spring retainer cup with grease and gently closing, but not latching the bonnet and observing the pattern left by the grease in order to adjust the latch pin. It was suggested also that the latch pin and spring assembly on my late TR4A should have a bonnet release lever. it does not and may be from an earlier car. Is there a difference?
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.