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Andy303

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About Andy303

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  • Location
    Chardon, Ohio USA
  • Cars Owned:
    1967 TR4A SRA
    2015 Mini Cooper S

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  1. VB: Drat, I had just ordered the usual, cheaper ones from Moss. I had looked at Revington and other sites for something uprated but they all seemed the same. The TR Enterprises versions look the originals that I removed, which I think used leather sealing surfaces. I am still working on rebuilding the entire axle so its not too late. Probably cost me $50 a piece by the time I get them over here....
  2. Well, here is another one for you to consider: https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?107877-A-simple-solution-for-separating-axle-and-hub I ordered the bits exactly as described and had the local welding shop do the honors. The hub came apart "relatively" easily (i.e. no heat used) with the assembly held in a stout vice and the use of a big breaker bar with a pipe extension and some well directed hammer blows on the head of the forcing screw. The large, course threads (8 tpi) on the end of the hub have to be in good condition.
  3. RMP: The TR rear axle is a bit different than those found on the cars listed in your signature. As you noted, the manual says to remove the axle and hub assembly together. easy to do, The real bugger is separating the hub from the axle shaft in order to get to the bearings and the inner seal. The axle shaft is pressed into the hub and has a very shallow taper that seems to make removal a real chore. The factory had a special tool for this but there are ways to make your own that will work just as well. Some are discussed here: Here is another discussion from the Triumph Experienc
  4. Bill Piggot's Original Triumph TR states that "disc wheels were finished in silver lacquer or aluminium wheel paint". However there was service bulletin in 1962 issued to dealers in the US about a change to Spa White. Discussed here: I think later cars soon reverted back to silver, but owners may have changed colours over the years. You can check the wheels for evidence of a respray, or remove a tire and see what colour is inside the wheel.
  5. Marco: My main interest to to provide dual circuit for safety, plus the added reliability of using high quality master cylinders as opposed the reproduction Lucas units. My apologies to the original poster for the thread jump down the dual circuit rabbit hole, but I highly value the learned opinions here. Happy Boxing Day to all in the UK! Andy
  6. Revington have a similar kit, but with 0.50" bore: https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr4409lak/name/dual-circuit-brakes-tr4a-lhd They say: It should be noted that the brake master cylinders supplied in this kit are 12.7mm (0.50") diameter which when two are uses in a dual circuit system have a combined surface area of 254mm² (0.393 inch²). This is slightly less than the surface area of the 19.05mm (0.75") diameter original cylinder (of which of course there is only one) at 284mm (0.442 inch²) used on Girling systems fitted to TR3-4A. The result of this is that the pedal pres
  7. I think we pretty much said the same thing, differently. The point of getting the shims evenly placed is so that the free play is nearly equal when measured at both sides to obtain the specified end float whilst centering the thrust block on the cross pin of the differential. Back to the original question, I do not see how a proper measurement can be made if the axle nut is not fully torqued.
  8. I am guessing that the thrust button is there. The manual says to fully torque the axle nut before reassembly. If not fully torqued, drawing the taper of the axle shaft into the hub, I would think the axle/hub assembly is just long enough to take up the end float, possibly exacerbated by the both hubs/axles not being fully torqued. To my understanding the measured end float is the sum of the clearances between the ends of the axle shafts and the opposing faces of the thrust button, which is why both axle assemblies must be in place to properly measure the end float. When you make the meas
  9. Barry: I had a similar problem last year when I first acquired my TR4A. I had installed Moss's "Classic Gold" pads and I thought the pedal felt very "wooden". After flushing the complete system (fluid was very old) and properly adjusting the rear brakes the brakes are great.
  10. What Bod said. The holes can become very elongated if the U-bolts are not properly torqued. Maybe more common in the TR4/4A with the spacer blocks as the spacer applies additional leverage. Also if a previous owner was not careful on reassembly they could have misaligned the round pin which pushes the spring perch concave.
  11. Barry: There is a write-up on this topic on Steve Mass's website, but he doesn't specify the welding equipment or rod material: http://www.nonlintec.com/tr4a/drivetrain/#rearaxlecase Welding the tubes is common practice one very high performance muscle cars and 4x4 trucks. Found this on line: First determine which it is cast steel or iron. Grinder test- Short deep red sparks= cast iron. Long orange-red sparks-cast steel. Cast steel sparks look much like mild steel sparks so just make a comparison its easy to see. After the test. Cast Iron=Ni55 or Ni99stick my first choice an
  12. looks like the Moss #635-828 (see my previous post) that I installed. Bought it last year.
  13. There are no rubber gaiters or seals as such. The pedals are enclosed by a sheet metal cover on the interior side that sort of seals things, but I do not think it is entirely air tight by any stretch. Check out Steve Maas's excellent site: http://www.nonlintec.com/tr4a/brakes/
  14. I am inquiring for a non-internet savvy friend about the disassembly of a non-power assisted TR7 steering rack which he is modifying for a TR3 rack conversion project. He is trying to remove the pinion assembly from the rack but is a bit baffled on how to remove the pinion retaining nut. I found a BL dealer training document on the Wedge Owners website that describes the disassembly procedure and shows the nut on Page 8. There are no holes or other obvious ways for a tool to loosen and remove the retaining nut. Can anyone help? Thanks! Andy s1018_-_bl_dealer_training_-_tr7_-_suspension_
  15. Something I forget to mention was that my TR4A is late production (April, 1967) and came with a Tecalemit filter head which uses the thinner O-ring. As this often seems to be a problem I sourced and installed an earlier Purolator filter head. It uses a thicker o-ring and I believe that helps reduce leakage (fingers crossed). Andy
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