Jump to content

Andy303

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    90
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Andy303

Profile Information

  • Location
    Chardon, Ohio USA
  • Cars Owned:
    1967 TR4A SRA
    2015 Mini Cooper S

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. This outfit sell a "complete" kit, and their site also has an instructional video: http://www.triumphrescue.com/index.php/stuff-for-sale/online-store.html#!/TR3-&-TR4-Alternator-Kits/p/28226336/category=6664605 I did not use them so I cannot comment on how complete their kit may actually be. I did a small belt conversion using a GM Delco unit, and made the mounts from scratch, using the original adjusting arm. The Racetorations setup looks quite nice and would have save a lot of bother. May only work with their proprietary alternator however. They say their unit is a single wire
  2. David: I have attached some pages extracted from Anthony Rhode's "Repairing Jaeger & Smith's Speedometers" as might apply to a tachometer. You can easily find a complete copy on-line. The tachometer works on the same principle as the speedometer, just ignore the bits about the odometer worm drive. The input shaft and the bronze bushing are what need a bit of grease. I only tried oiling the input shaft from the back - I was afraid that I might ruin a good exchange core if I tried to dismantle the thing. Too much oil is bad as it could coat the magnet and cup which would be bad.
  3. Team Triumph. I think it was his last one however. TRF, BPNW, and Moss didn't have one. Check Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Tachometer-Cable-Triumph-TR3-TR3A-TR3B-LHD-Cars-Made-in-UK-/173302063092
  4. I recently went this this drill. My tacho was screeching intermittently and the needle would swing wildly. Not all the time, just enough to be worrisome. First I removed, cleaned, and lightly lubed the old inner cable. No joy. Then a new cable, which for some reason was hard to find in the proper length. The LHD cars use a cable listed as 31 inches long (actually closer to 32 inches), but the usual suppliers only had them in 36 inches which I think is meant for a Spitfire. At any rate I found one, UK made of the correct length, but still the screech persisted. I then removed and dismantled the
  5. I should clarify that the photo of a TR4 in my post is not my car but was taken from inside the article I posted. It is the TR4 of that author. The Sparkrite people make similar claims as the paper. Is it CDI or Hall effect? The description on their website is not clear: http://www.accuspark.co.uk/sparkrite.html I am currently using an unassisted distributor rebuilt by British Vacuum Unit, our equivalent of the DD : https://www.britishvacuumunit.com/ I suppose one of my misgivings about the Mark 10 is the sheer size of the thing. How large is the Accuspark u
  6. Rather than jump into a pre-existing, on-going thread on the subject of ignition systems I thought I would start on new one, specifically about Capacitive Discharge Ignition (CDI). This is one of the earliest forms of electronic assisted ignition and improves the performance of the standard points ignition system, aka Kettering or Magnetic Discharge Ignition, while maintaining some of the simplicity of the earlier system. The Kettering system generates a high voltage spark as needed but the main drawback is that the points erode over time and need to be adjusted or replaced. The early CDI syst
  7. I thought this was an interesting tip for testing and road-side emergencies. Connect a known good condenser to an alligator clip attached to ground, and attach the condenser lead to the points side of the coil. Not pretty but it would get you home. https://www.classicmgclub.com/single-post/2015/10/13/Doc-Browns-Flux-Capacitor
  8. My gauge is marked 70 and 100 degrees Centigrade. I had posted this question originally on Sept 13 and there were no replies. A day later I ordered one but was soon informed that they were out of stock and would dispatch it as soon as it came in. I am still waiting. Here is what Revington say about the item: GTR108-1 is a high quality Temperature Sender suitable for all TR’s 2 (with an electrical instrument) to TR8. Assemble with an aluminium crush washer WA11013047 if a sealing washer is not supplied in the kit). GTR104 (TR4-4A) and GTR108 (TR250, 5, all TR6 and TR7/8) are virt
  9. Thanks for the suggestion Richard, but as I am on the other side of the Pond that would be difficult. Folks on this side do much the same sending the gauge and sending unit off to Nisonger or West Valley or such. There is a local firm that I have used who I think could do the same. Andy
  10. Ian: The Revington version looks very similar indeed to the Speedi-Cable version.
  11. As Stuart rightly notes the chassis number of all solid axle cars, even late production 1967 cars like mine (CT77xxxL), start with CT. CTC means the car has IRS.
  12. Remarkable indeed! Which sending unit are you using? I started a related topic under General concerning the transmitter sold by Revington. Thanks! Andy
  13. Does anyone have experience with Revington's HQ Temperature transmitter? Rather pricey but given the poor reputation of the sending units available from the usual sources it may be well worth the price. link: https://www.revingtontr.com/product/gtr108-1/name/hq-temp-transmitter-tr2-8-5-8-x-18unf
  14. Rob: How did your temp gauge compare to your readings when you did that?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.