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Andy303

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About Andy303

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  • Location
    Chardon, Ohio USA
  • Cars Owned:
    1967 TR4A SRA
    2015 Mini Cooper S

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  1. There is also one made in the US by Smoothline. Not cheap either. https://www.smoothline.com/tr6-hardtop I think I prefer the Honeybourne. smoothline.webp
  2. Are to referring to item #71 in the attached Moss (USA) catalog diagram? The SPC lists this a Part #PT0504, a No. 10 UNF (10-32) screw, 1/2" long. For for data see also: https://smithy.com/machining-reference/drilling/page/23
  3. No it doesn't but I preferred having the entire assembly in my hands knowing that everything is clean and properly tight to doing the job laying on my back. There will be no doubt as to whether the entire old O-ring has been removed or not. Having it clean and tidy on the bench allowed me to carefully install the new o-ring in a clean and bright filter head groove with a bit of sealer, and no worries about it falling back out on to the dirty floor. This joint seems to be the source of my leaks and frustration.
  4. I highly recommend that you remove the entire filter head as suggested in Bob's article. Installing the spin-on kit in much easier on the bench and you can clean the thing inside and out. The Moss kit requires that the bolt be torqued to a rather low value. I didn't fancy doing that on my back with my old beam torque wrench. Replacing the PRV ball and spring while you are at it is a good idea too. The only drawback is that the gaskets currently available from Moss here in the States are thin paper and prone to leak. Much better to find an OEM red paper gasket, reuse a good original, or make one. New copper washers for the oil pressure take-off also a good idea, but mind which is which as they have different diameters. PS My TR4A came with a Tecalemit filter head but I changed it out for an earlier Purolator head which has a better, thicker O-ring seal.
  5. Absolutely! It would be a dream holiday for me. I think many of the Roman roads are either under or are very near to modern roads, i.e. the A5 or Watling Street for example being the most well known, so it need not be too damaging to the paintwork. Here are some Roman road " rabbit holes" to fall in: http://roadsofromanbritain.org/index.html http://penelope.uchicago.edu/Thayer/E/Gazetteer/Periods/Roman/Topics/Engineering/roads/Britain/_Texts/CODROM/home.html https://omnesviae.org/
  6. I think they ate figs for that. Probably still do....
  7. The attachment on the seat is a lift-the-dot type stud. That looks like a snap on the strap.
  8. Not so strange - its a TR4A with solid rear axle (SRA). They were sold only in the North American market, unknown most anywhere else.
  9. That's a really good question. If the engine is running rich with "no flats" i.e. the jet flush with the bridge, then fuel level in one or both bowls must be too high and flooding into the carb venturi. The comment about the Gunson Carb Balancer going off the scale indicates that the butterfly on that carb may be cracked open too much. As mentioned perhaps the throttle linkage is bound up or bent.
  10. I checked out the John Richard site, very nice, but at the low price they quote the part cannot be a genuine Land Rover part. I have searched many other sites and most list Bearmach or some other aftermarket maker. The real deal seems priced about 10X more. https://www.johnrichardssurplus.co.uk/land-rover/series-1948-1984/engine/engine-rubber-mounting-nrc2054.html Rovers North here in the states wants almost $40 for the genuine article, whereas they sell the Proline reproduction for $4.95 each. https://www.roversnorth.com/parts/nrc2054_motor_mount_4_cyl_petrol_series_ii_iia_iii
  11. FWIW Moss USA sell a more vintage looking inertia reel seat belt with aircraft style buckles: https://mossmotors.com/hook-mount-3-point-inertia-reel-seatbelt They would be mounted as Stuart has described. A different Andy
  12. Andy303

    Antifreeze

    Reading this thread got me to wondering what I have been using all these years. On this side of the pond the bad old green stuff is still widely available at any parts store and most big box stores. I went out in the garage and took a photo of the label. A no brainer? I had thought so...
  13. Here is another manual that may be helpful. Regarding the throttle spindles, the bushing in the carb body can also wear to the point that even with new spindles there is still too much air getting by. With the engine running try spraying carb cleaner or WD40 on the bushing and see if the RPMs change. I believe that .005 clearance is the maximum wear. I replaced my old Strombergs with new Burlen SU HS6 and out of curiousity I measured the new ones and found the play to be in the range of .002 to .003 with a dial indicator, which is the factory allowance. Even with this there is small amount there is a slight, detectable "wiggle". tuning_stromberg_cd_carburetters.pdf
  14. Todd: The 175CD carbs found on our TRs do not have an enrichment disc, but use a simple bar to lift the air valve when the choke is applied. Attached are extracts from the Owner's Handbook for reference. You should not touch the jet bushing (Item 12) to adjust the jet height - only the knurled/slotted knob of the jet adjustment screw on the very bottom (Item 13). The starting setting is to run this up until the jet is flush with the bridge (or bone as you called it) and then down 3 full turns. If there is fuel leaking around the jet adjustment screw then the o-ring is damaged and must be replaced. The bushing you mentioned (Item 12) is only to b disturbed if you have to make an adjustment for centering the needle. This is explained in the attachment. The air valve when lifted should drop back without any binding. Ideally both carbs should have the same drop. TR4-Stromberg-Adjust.pdf
  15. Todd: Regarding the vacuum advance port not showing any vacuum at idle, that is as it should be as the drilling is blocked when the butterfly is closed. It only comes into operation when the throttle is open. When you say that you rebuilt the carbs, did this include new throttle shafts and bushings? Your description of the problem is similar to one I experienced on my car where the front carb had a lot of play and wear on the throttle shaft resulting in air leaks and being near impossible to tune at idle. Using the usual technique it demanded more and more lowering of the jet meaning that it was far too rich under running conditions. Another possibility, assuming you rebuilt the carbs off the car, is that there is an air leak on the manifold gasket(s) on that front carb incurred during re-installation. BTDT.
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