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InfinityJon

And so it begins.....

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David, the info that I have is mainly from my research at the BMIHT. I have details of circa 25000 out of the 91850 built and have coverage of every week of production. 

cheers

Derek

 

 

 

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Day 2

Stripped the hood and the rear vinyl trim exposing the fuel tank. Again presently suppressed by condition though most of it is heavily sprayed but looking sound. 

Stripped all the lights from both ends and started to retract the wiring loom. Front end has been chopped around with wires just twisted together behind insulation tape. Many bullet/spade connectors are damaged so may cut losses and buy a new loom. 

Front headlight bowls are rusted through with the Nearside wing showing rust damage. I would like to think this is repairable as the rest of the wing is in great shape.  Offside is perfect. 

So the shopping list begins with two headlamp sets!  

Next to strip the Bumpers and fuel tank, working my way up to the dash and then the engine bay. 

 

Found a a really good supply of stacking industrial storage boxes with flap lids. Really good for storing strippped parts. Even got a large panel for labelling contents. £7 each delivered within 50 mins of ordering today. Result!

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Edited by InfinityJon

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Also completed some car admin today. Car now insured with Adrian Flux so I can get a UK reg plate. Forms filled, proofs and titles enclosed, nova enclosed and fees paid. All in an envelope and posted to DVLA. Let’s see what they give me for a reg number. 

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Also completed some car admin today. Car now insured with Adrian Flux so I can get a UK reg plate. Forms filled, proofs and titles enclosed, nova enclosed and fees paid. All in an envelope and posted to DVLA. Let’s see what they give me for a reg number. 

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You're not hanging about Jon. Keep it up and you'll be on the road for the summer!

I had to repair one of my headlight rings. They are spot welded to the wing so relatively easy to remove and fix. A shrinker/stretcher also helps. I bought a cheap one from ebay and it was very useful in lots of places.

Cheers,

Sean

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Hi Sean,

nice work! Do you know the make/type of shrinker / stretcher you have?

Thanks,

Waldi

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14 minutes ago, Waldi said:

Hi Sean,

nice work! Do you know the make/type of shrinker / stretcher you have?

Thanks,

Waldi

Hi Waldi.

I think its a Metz

Sean

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Thanks Sean, looked it up; looks like nice tool.

Waldi

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15 hours ago, InfinityJon said:

Question:  I assume you have to strip  off all the tar sound deadening panels to asses the damaged/rot to the underside. What’s the best way to remove then?

Hot air gun and a scraper then wash off the remnants with some good quality spirit wipe.

Stuart.

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7 hours ago, stuart said:

Hot air gun and a scraper then wash off the remnants with some good quality spirit wipe.

Stuart.

I'm not recommending this, but where Stuart mentions spirit wipe, I used petrol and it was very effective. Luckily my wiring loom wasn't melting at the time :o

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Hello Jon and welcome 

 

I imported a 1974 6 from North Carolina in 2015 - I've yet to register it so would be very interested to see how you get on with the DVLA ! - did you include a HERITAGE CERTIFICATE with the all the info you submitted ?

 

Good luck and all the best

 

Matt 

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Day 3

Well half a day really due to family commitments. 

Ignored my plan from last week and removed the exhaust system, rear Bumper and US bumper blocks. 

Well that was a job and a half but at least it’s off. I had to slit one bolt fixing as the captive nut spun in the bumper.  

Stripped wiring loom up to the connector under the dashboard and removed.

With the exhaust system removed, access and  visibility of the read diff and drive shafts was much improved.  Well let’s just say the most of the back end of the car has mechanically “sh1t itself” and has copious amounts of oil oozing from most joints, covering most of the area.  So that will be a rear diff rebuild and a rework of the rear shafts. I may change them for the CV upgrade - see how funds go. 

On the plus side the previous owner has upgraded the suspension and had new shock mounts fitted all be it rather poorly but it is a part I can cross off the list. 

Need to find a suitable vessel to drain the fuel tank into to allow me to extract that next week.

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, InfinityJon said:

Need to find a suitable vessel to drain the fuel tank into to allow me to extract that next week.

 

 

 

This 7 liter vacuum fluid extractor works well for removing petrol from the tank. Has an easy pour spout to transfer the extracted fluid.

It is also ideal for bleeding brakes, removing ATF from an automatic gearbox, cleaning drains, etc.

Just pump the handle 10 times and its ready to suck up any fluid- well worth the purchase price- find one online.

Vacuum Fluid Extractor.

Walt

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Edited by Sapphire72

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Out of sequence question....

so you strip down the rear suspension and remove the trailing arms, carefully counting the shins and their location.  My question is how do you know if what you took off was the correct number and the correct location? What happens if someone in the past has not put them all back and if they have, are they correct?

Is there any alignment procedures to ensure the car does not carb or squirm under acceleration or breaking due to an incorrect rear wheel alignment?

 

 

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2 hours ago, InfinityJon said:

Out of sequence question....

so you strip down the rear suspension and remove the trailing arms, carefully counting the shins and their location.  My question is how do you know if what you took off was the correct number and the correct location? What happens if someone in the past has not put them all back and if they have, are they correct?

Is there any alignment procedures to ensure the car does not carb or squirm under acceleration or breaking due to an incorrect rear wheel alignment?

 

 

Well, Jon, how was the rear tyre wear, previously?

If it was okay, & you returned it to what it was, then the alignment you have should be good enough to get the car to an alignment shop.

I counted 4-4-4-3 on the shims on my car. You should have something similar.

Walt

Edited by Sapphire72

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Hi Jon, I'm doing exactly the same to my TR6 (blue too) import although not a quite the speed you are doing it.

Mine is an Oct 1973 car that seems to have spent most of its life in West Virginia although I got it from Texas. Mine is in a similar condition although a bit more rust in right hand side inner A post area - see picture in one of my posts. A very bodged restoration in the late 1980s needs undoing but it has not been used since then so sills, doors, etc., are fine.

I am about to lift off the body but am just making the door bracing framework first. Body will be supported on a support chassis that will be part of a rotissari.

I am sure my chassis is failing around the T shirt area but will not be able to really tell until I get the body off.

Where do you live? Anywhere near West Sussex?

 

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7 hours ago, Richard Pope said:

Hi Jon, I'm doing exactly the same to my TR6 (blue too) import although not a quite the speed you are doing it.

Mine is an Oct 1973 car that seems to have spent most of its life in West Virginia although I got it from Texas. Mine is in a similar condition although a bit more rust in right hand side inner A post area - see picture in one of my posts. A very bodged restoration in the late 1980s needs undoing but it has not been used since then so sills, doors, etc., are fine.

I am about to lift off the body but am just making the door bracing framework first. Body will be supported on a support chassis that will be part of a rotissari.

I am sure my chassis is failing around the T shirt area but will not be able to really tell until I get the body off.

Where do you live? Anywhere near West Sussex?

 

Hi Richard,

I’m in Bristol. 

I am sure the project will slow down when I hit some snags. The strip down is the easy bit. 

Think I will have my work cut out for me with the mechanical rebuild aspect as I think I’ll be rebuilding it all. Not much has a dry joint/seal. 

How long have you been at yours?

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Jon, shame we are not closer.

Yes, stripping tub was easy. Until I get the body off I can't get to any of the mechanicals hense why I am taking the body off and putting it on a rotissari; then it will be easy. Whether I do body then or chassis I don't know - probably both.

Collected car from docks May 2016 but then everything got in the way until Nov 2017. Started body strip but then major house extension got in way so stopped Jan 2018. That's out the way so re-started body stripping Nove 2018. Bit cold at the moment - big garage and yes heaters but still cold.

As I said, body all stripped and only the body / chassis bolts to undo but that's after making up door bracing frame - started on that. I also made a lifting frame so I can use engine hoist to get body off.

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Richard - I'm not doing a 6, but a 4a so very similar in many respects - I spend a bit of time every month in Bognor Regis and would be more than happy to pop round and share experiences - my chassis is done in as much as it is repaired and ready to go to blasters once I've done the body, which is where I currently am.

Whereabouts are you in West Sussex?

Cheers

Rich

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Day 4:

Front bumper off - a lot more rust inside with most captive nuts spinning. Access is rubbish.

All the struts in good shape and no rust on the mount holes. 

Dash is out and instruments carefully packed in their storage box. Ready for either refurb or replacement. Do the chrome rings on the gauges split from the housings?

stared to pull the heater hoses and fittings as well as crash pads.

Not too worried about labelling the wiring as I’ll be getting a new loom. 

At the other end, emptied fuel tank that’s ready to come out. 

Got most of the day at it tomorrow so it would be nice to have the cockpit clear with just steel in place. 

A couple from today. Phone died so cockpit shots tomorrow. 

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The chrome bezels of the instruments have tabs such that when the bezel is rotated a few degrees the tabs line up with slots in the case and allow the bezel to detach. They are usually well stuck due to age, crud etc so it may be necessary to gently pry the tabs up a little to allow the bezel to rotate. Dont go nuts though as those tabs will break.

Stan

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17 hours ago, InfinityJon said:

Day 4:

.

Not too worried about labelling the wiring as I’ll be getting a new loom. 

 

 

Jon

A simple hint if you are replacing the wiring loom rather than disconnect the old loom connections, cut them off instead, leaving a few cm of the old wire on the connections then you can use the old bits of wire as a  wire colour guide when rewiring, easier and simpler than looking at the wiring diagram all the time, and sometimes the wiring diagrams are not accurate as there can be undocumented changes during production runs (try and make sense of a 80's Ferrari loom if you really want to go mad)

cheers

Alan

Edited by Kiwifrog

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