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InfinityJon last won the day on April 22

InfinityJon had the most liked content!

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  1. So I buy a pair of top ball joints and track rod Ends from MEV spares off eBay. Turn up and realise that they are without grease nipples. Phone the bloke up and ask if he does them with grease nipples. (Happy to pay more). No he does not stock them so ask if I could send them back. His reply was “no I would not accept a refund on those grounds”....yeh, thanks for your help mate....Not!
  2. Front end all stripped and waiting for sand blasting. Passenger side is a pile of bits while drivers side has been mostly blasted and waiting in temporary bondarust for a quick re blast and two coats of POR15. I have to say, POR15 is some good gear! Passenger side front wishbone joins had completely seized and I ended up drilling out the castle bolt. There was no flex in any of the suspension as if it had been welded together. Once I am ready for another batch of painting I hope to have all the drivers side front components painted and then wrapped in bubble wrap ready for final assembly. It will be new front shocks as both were devoid of oil and not doing much damping. Everyone should buy a sand blaster £159 - how fast is derust? Best money spent so far on the job. New parts....perfect.
  3. I did fancy my chassis dark grey. Anything stopping me painting in Chassis black and then POR15 2k topcoat in in dark grey? are the paints compatible? Am I wasting my time?
  4. Yep. Not going down that route.
  5. Not going to powder coat as I have read many horror stories about cracking and flaking. Over time. Unseen developing rust behind a good looking finish.
  6. Can I put it over the bondarust?
  7. What is everyone painting their suspension components with? currently media blasting them and painting with bondarust primer+zinc directly to the bare metal. Whatever you suggest top coat wise, will it take to bondarust?
  8. Can anyone tell me the height of the crank centreline above the chassis frame top face measured at the bell housing and a second height from the fan end above the cross member please. I forgot to take the dimensions before I took the engine out.
  9. Current work in progress. Now the tub is off my chassis, I can check the model to the real thing and continue the 3D model. Now I can see the real chassis I can see a couple of things on my model I need to alter.
  10. What are people’s views on Upol raptor bed liner to paint the chassis. Anyone have experience or advice good or bad! Any others better?
  11. I assume that the repair for this is to cut out and plate. Fully weld and then weld t shirt back in place.
  12. YODA. That plate will be worth a fortune amongst the Starwars community!
  13. Engine and box out. Rear diff out and a first look at the underside. This car must of had an oil leak from the day it left the factory because under all the oil is shiny steel and original black factory paint. Can’t believe the condition. Suspension strip down to leave just the frame and then to clean and prep the chassis to replace both out riggers. Only one needs replacing but in for a penny...... Love the pigeon poo welding sort of by the diff mount pins. Think that will need a strip and start again!! Diff has major oil leak so that will be a rebuild. Think it will slow down again after the full strip down.
  14. Cheers Stuart, thought it looked odd.
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